ktm

www.frozenboost.com is the same as www.siliconeintake.com which is the company I used to source all of my silicone couplers. As for the piping, the ebay kits are fine, but you will have to cut some of the pipes to length in order for them to fit. I got the same kit as your first link for I/C piping. I had to cut two of the pipes to fit.

One last statement regarding timing. Read the following link, especially the posts by Ron: Give the engine what it likes

"Full Engine Management (MEgasquirt or Emanage or other) $300? 3" full turboback exhaust $275" I would double the cost for MS as well. Additionally, I highly doubt you will be getting a 3" turbo back exhaust (mandrel bent) for only $275. You forgot a muffler which in itself is $65 to $150+. The FMIC is a little low as well. I know you are probably quoting an Ebay SSAC I/C, but you have to figure in shipping too. I would budget $100 for the I/C. The turbo valve cover is not $10, more like $50. You need to have the injectors bench flow tested and cleaned if they are used. Figure another $80 for the injectors. These are but a few examples. If you purchase all new bolts for the engine, figure another $100. Powdercoating engine parts, figure another $200. You need a new fuel filter and those run $50 minimum. What about a fuel pressure regulator? An Aeromotive FPR will run you around $150. Fuel pressure gauge is another $40. An intake (piping and K&N filter) will run you another $70. I agree with JSM. Double your figure for a safe estimate of a 'budget' build.

J. Soileau, the seats are from an early model Miata. I dyed the bolsters charcoal and the inserts black. Steve, the holes lined up well. I had to drill them out to a larger size, but other than that they lined up with my holes.

Before: After: The color of the paint is Duplicolors Iron High Heat Ceramic. It was the EXACT color I wanted. Gratuitous interior shots:

No issues with the steering shaft or the frame rail, though it is a tight fit. The silicone reducer from the compressor to the first charge pipe touches the frame rail, but I could rotate the compressor smidge more if I was really concerned.

Phil, I have a 1983 L28ET. I am running the factory spec of 24 degrees BTDC at idle, 27 degrees at 1000 rpm (where I set my idle instead of 800 rpm). The other idle values others are posting are for N/A engines. What pistons are you running? Stock turbo or flat tops?

It's at a shop now being straightened, surfaced, and then rebuilt. I might as well rebuild the head since it's off the car. Edit: I should add that I also know that detonation played a role in the failure as well. It was the combination of a number of factors.

....0.020" out!!! That combined with a little bit of detonation resulted in the carnage shown in my earlier thread. I know that I did not run it hot, so the PO must have tried to run a fusion reactor at some point.

Correct. There are actually THREE adjustments: hood to hinge, hinge to body, top of hood to hood latch. To the original poster, try this. Open your hood all the way. Loosen the two front bolts on the hood to hinge connection. Now, grab the top of the hood and pull forward. The hood will rotate around the two back bolts on the hood to hinge connection. This will cause the front of the hood to drop. Important: Tighten each bolt while you are pulling forward on the hood. The front of your hood should now be in alignment or CLOSE to being in alignment. This is an art more than a science.

Ron said that you were da' man! when it came to forensic analyses of engine failures. I was fighting detonation on the dyno, and I was probably detonating before the dyno. This is my project car so I have not had a chance to drive it much (fortunately or unfortunately), but your analysis is spot on with my observations. Is there any way to check the ringlands with the pistons in the block?

More photos. Unfortunately, the photos of the head are AFTER I wiped it down. I wiped it down last night. Paul, I believe I see the area you are referring to on the block near the plug side on #3.

Paul, I will take some more photos later today when I get home from work. Thanks.

The engine was not rebuilt but rather it was a good used engine. Compression numbers right after the install were 145 to 150 across the board. I did have a few periods of running elevated (212 to 220) temperatures due to a failure of my electric fan circuit, but these were very short periods. I find it strange that all of my cylinders caused coolant to overflow out the radiator, yet my compression numbers were 120 - 135, with #3 at 150. As you can see, #3 is the cylinder with the most coolant! A warped head should result in lower compression numbers. A blown HG usually affects one or two cylinders. Ah well.

After posting my first thread (Here), I went out to the garage whilst people responded and pulled the head. The attached photos shows the carnage. However, I see NO signs of a cracked head and NO signs of a damaged head gasket. The last conclusion is a warped head. Thoughts?

I took my car out for a spin tonight and it was acting very strange. I came home and ran a compression test. Just as I tested #6 first, #3 blew a geyser of coolant all over me. I continued my testing and my compression numbers were 120 to 130 across the board, with #3 at 150. So I pulled the rad cap and tested all the cylinders. EVERY SINGLE CYLINDER caused the radiator to overflow. However, only #3 shot a geyser and #4 spit occasionally. I'll be pulling the head later this week, but I am seeking some ideas as to WTF happened.

http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/1/720966/721049

It should only contact the fingers when you depress the clutch. Saying that, the bearing is only 2 mm from the clutch fingers when the clutch pedal is not depressed.

Which do you recommend? I see that there are users of all systems here, but the price difference is significant (up to $100+ or more difference). I am looking for a system that can increase the flow based on boost. Snow Performance's and Cooling Mist's Stage 2 kits looks to fit the bill, but one is $400 and the other $500. Thanks, Bo

My normal operating temperature is 180 to 190. The needle is slightly to the left of center.

Matt/Azizaz, could you please post the list you've been keeping? A few of us jumped on this quite early. Cheers, Bo

My air temps are around 85 to 95 degrees. Not once I have seen over 100 yet.