ktm

3" mandrel bent downpipe to a 3" mandrel bent exhaust, bends minimized, 90 degree bends at muffler eliminated, to a Borla XR-1 muffler

derek, how does the spal kit attach to the window crank in a 240z? Does it not interfere with the stock door panels? I've been contemplating this kit but worried about door panel fitment.

I put 6.5" in custom enclosures in my kick panel. I have no problem with leg room at all.

jgkurz, I have an Innovate LC-1, LMA3 and G3 gauge and have been tuning the car using them. My fuel map is almost ideal with my AFRs around 11 at 15 psi at peak torque....or so I believe. I just called up my latest log file and see that I am hellaciously rich at 13 to 15 psi (low 10s, high 9s) , but I know that I made adjustments since that log. I have not logged since then. I should update everyone. My coils are LS-1 coil on plugs running NKG BPRES6-11. I was running 7s, but they fouled out quickly due to very rich conditions while early tuning. I bought 3 sets of plugs and gapped them at 0.035, 0.03 and 0.025. I ran the 0.035 and was misfiring still but not nearly as bad. I upped the dwell since the AFR was still a bit rich (per z-ya's testing, LS-1 coils saturate at 8ms - I should be fine at 6ms and I was originally at 5 ms). I then switched out the 0.035 plugs for the 0.03 plugs and that helped out quite a bit. I still misfire, but I do not get the severe bucking I used to. I need to do another logging run to verify that my AFRs are still not in the low 10s, as that will definitely cause a miss, especially if the plugs are partially fouled.

Then you take a different diameter socket. I said JY = junkyard tech tip. It is not a perfect fit. You have to hammer the socket onto the lock. The idea is that if you need to remove the lock in a pinch, you can hammer a socket onto it and remove.

Yes, 10 mm. The 10 mm socket fits INSIDE of the wheel lock much like the wheel lock itself. This works for when you are in a pinch and absolutely need to get that lock off.

Make sure you have a 10 mm deep socket with you and a sledge hammer. Pound the 10mm deep socket onto the wheel lock. Yes, it will fit. Remove the wheel lock like a normal lug nut. To remove the socket from the wheel lock, thread the socket/wheel lock back onto the stud and whack the socket with the sledge. It will break free easily and repeat. Found this out yesterday when going after some 300zxt hubs, rotors and calipers (I was really hoping it was a 1988-1989, but turned out to be a 1984).

Hmmm, according to my Wolf V500 configuration file, it is setup for 6 teeth and looks for a pulse (the "7th" tooth) to determine TDC.

"someone, maybe it was rontyler, posted on how to do that by drilling one on the z31 trigger wheel." That works for Wolf and not MS. Wolf looks for a sync pulse to identify #1.

Ron, besides the wideband, are there any other changes to the firmware?

I'll be bringing over my multi-meter and remote starter tomorrow after work. Sounds like either a battery (silly stupid - caught me twice), wiring or starter issue. Edit: He means what we discussed about the remote starter. You wire up the battery positive to the starter terminal, best to do with a remote starter.

Matt, drop me a line tomorrow at 714-415-8249 if you can't get it fired up tonight. I'll swing by after work if you'd like.

I was just going to say, that is not an old BMW. Gimme an old 1980's635 CSi shark nose or, even better, early to mid 1970s 630 csi.

In Log 1655 at 801, I see that you are idling. If you notice from record 782 to 801, your TP is 0 and your RPMs are fairly steady at 1125 to 1200. However, your MAP is fluctuating from 27 to 38 over this period. Your PWs are increasing and your O2s dropping. Later in the log at idle your MAP is fairly steady at 35 (955 to 991 for instance). At record 955, first take a look at records 791 and 792, specifically the MAP and O2 voltage. If you notice, record 955 shows a voltage of 0.49!! while 791 and 792 show an O2 voltage of 1.4.....both 791/792 and 955 are at the same MAP! A look at log 745, records 890 and 892 reveal odd O2 voltage drops again while at idle. You are clearly at idle before and after the records, yet your voltage drops from 1.6 to 1.2 and then back up. You are showing us records at idle, which would eliminate compressor surge from a possibility. Have you checked your spark plugs? It looks like you are experiencing transient rich periods and may be missing. By fluttering do you mean a very short, periodic hesitation when accelerating?

Surge tanks: http://www.tweakit.net/shop/index.php?cPath=57_40_29&osCsid=93f11389227cd13075b88db9dd05dda7

I understand what you are saying Clifton, but wouldn't t surging keep the AFRs correct? His O2 voltage drops from 1.157 to 0.157. Surging would show up as high MAP, but there is airflow there as well at that MAP and the O2 voltage should only fluctuate slightly. I am asking.

I looked at your logs and the "fluttering" you are describing is showing up as a drop in RPM. What is the O2 reading, volts (0-5 volts)? If you notice at the time stamp you mentioned, your O2 voltage suddenly plummets. If this is a wideband sensor, that low voltage means VERY rich conditions. Also, look at the time stamp 415.026 and 415.155. At 415.026, your MAP is 138 (5.5 psi), but at 415.155 its 180 (11.6 psi). At that same time, your PW2 jumps from 10.9 to 16.2 and your O2 voltage PLUMMETS. Maybe a bad MAP sensor? You should not be jumping from 5.5 psi to 11.6 psi in 0.129 seconds. If your MAP sensor tells MS that you are at 180 but you are only really at, say, 150, it will set the PW accordingly and you will run SUPER rich. This could cause a miss.

I do not have an pictures that will clearly show the difference. Mine did had only minimal corrosion, however the clear coat was badly peeling.

datsun40146, thank's for the pictures of the cut bumper. I was thinking about doing the same on my car (similar to the early 70s Camaro RS). I can better visualize what it would look like now.

spork, I was specifically looking at either porting the runners, modifying a stock intake to use custom straight runners, or buying one of your intakes. The idea is the same - get better flow through the intake. If the runners can flow more air at the same manifold pressure, then I will see some gain. As I understand it, the runners are the restriction in the intake system and flow less air than the valves can take. I am running a P90a head. I know that gains from modifications should be looked at holistically, but unless I switch out my head to a P90 (I have one), my options are limited with the P90a. I know that there are quite a few options I can persue, my question is whether or not the gains are worth the money.

It's actually a lot easier than going to a website. Smaller than stock diameter means you will over-estimate your speed, larger than stock diameter means you will under-estimate your speed. Stock rolling diameter (for a 240z with 195/70R14) is 14 + 195/25.4*0.70*2 = 24.7 inches. Learning how to do the calculation is much more valuable than knowing the website address.

Still waiting. Honestly, I would go with Innovate's setup for tuning. Wolf's datalogging is, as I indicated earlier, archaic. I really need to follow-up with screen shots.

If they are polished aluminum, then use the method I just described. Better yet, do a quick search on Hybrid or Zcar about polishing aluminum wheels. I polished up my Western Turbines and they came out great.

Forget trying to sell the L26. No one wants an L24 or L26 motor.

Use steel wool Grade 000 and work your way up to Grade 2 or so. You could also use 400 grit sand paper and work up to 1000 grit or so. Are they chrome or just polished aluminum? Big difference.