ktm

Quoted for the truth. Honestly, if this is your only car and you do not have the money to keep it up and running, sell it before you sell your 240sx. Others may not agree with me, but I value having a reliable ride over something cool to drive.

I am running a P90A head. You can hear the ticking of the lifters, but it is very quiet.

Outstanding quality. The fit and finish are top notch. I did not have to do ANY modifications to the air dam or my car in order for it to fit. It is pricey from MSA though, $330 plus shipping. You can expect shipping to be around $100.

Exactly. I watch his auctions all the time and he always gets top dollar. Cleaning up your product before you sell it goes a long way. Also, if you have a solid reputation, people know that the appearance is more than simply cosmetic.

Yasin, quite a while ago I bought an OE 280zx turbo head gasket "just in case". It was sitting in my garage for 9 months. I just purchased another OE head gasket from Ishino "just in case". I bought an intake/exhaust manifold gasket from them and it looks IDENTICAL to the OE manifold gasket. The car is running better than ever. I am pulling 20 inches of vacuum at idle, the rebuilt head is VERY quiet (you can barely hear the ticking). Hugh, Wolf has 16 inputs/outputs that you can use to control a variety of Wolf functions. It uses the various engine functions to control the inputs/outputs. You keep telling yourself that you are not building an airplane, but it sure feels like it at times.

....and now I know why most folks here stick around. I had a grin from ear to ear after the 2nd hour. The first two hours were filled with apprehension: "What's that noise and where is it coming from (tranny, differential, engine, etc.)?" Eyes CONSTANTLY scanning gauges for any deviation from normal operating parameters. Trying to "feel" if the car surging, hesitating, etc. Etc., etc., etc. and not to forget the last item ALWAYS on my mind.... "Please don't break down....please don't break down.....please don't break down....."

The air dam is fiberglass and made by Kaminari. It is available from MSA, however, I bought it from madkaw a little while ago. Thanks for the compliments.

Just happened again. Sounds like a damn M80 going off!

It's turned on in the ON position. The START position is where the starter is engaged. Tony D mentioned at another site that his MS'd car does the same thing. Basically the coil is sparking when the system is first energized. Sometimes there is enough fuel/vapors in the right mixture to ignite. Still looking for other possibilities though.

....the fuel system. I am not starting the car, simply turning the key to the ON position. You will hear the pump energize and then an incredibly loud BANG! It only happens occasionally and the car will start up and idle fine afterwards. Most of the time when I energize the fueling system nothing happens, but when it does go BANG! it scares the crap outta me. I have checked all over for fuel leaks, etc. and do not see anything. It HAS to be fuel system related as that is the ONLY thing that is energized when the key is in the ON position. Anyone have ANY idea what the @(#&$(@#& it is? I am stumped.

"I did notice that after the first couple of attemps, their was a large vacume built up in the fuel cell but other than that, everything seems fine." I just read this statement. Is your cell vented properly? If not, gas will not flow very well if at all.

Sounds like you may be air locked. If you have a pocket of air trapped between to liquids, the liquid that the pump is trying to move will not move. Air is compressible, gas is not. What is happening is the air trapped between the pump and somewhere downstream of the pump is being compressed. Try disconnecting all the fuel lines from the pump to the regulator and the regulator return line back to the tank. Blow through the lines and make sure that no gas is trapped in the lines. You should then try to prime the pump by pouring some gas down the line from the carb to the pump, or you can turn on the pump and pump gas until it starts to leak from the connection at the carb. The pump will also pump gas if you do not prime the discharge end, but the priming step mentioned above will help to ensure that you do not trap any more air in the line.

Phil, I am experiencing the same issue, where the clutch engages right off the floor. I tried adjusting my clutch pedal to no avail. I also have an adjustable slave cylinder and that does not help either.

I feel particularly lucky after reading this thread then. I bought my T03/04E turbo from him back in March of this year for the prices he had on his website. This only reinforces my belief that if someone is selling something "special" for this community, jump on it now as it may not be around forever.

Pop, I definitely experienced air locking, a first for me in this car with this pump. I would have a small amount of fuel in my line between the rail and the pump, and the rest of the line would be air only. As a result, I air locked. I then disconnected my hoses and blew the fuel out of the lines. Upon reconnecting, the car pressurized to 40 psi but would surge at idle. No detectable vacuum leaks (I sprayed carb cleaner around all vacuum connections). When giving it a little bit of throttle, it would hesitate and upon throttle lift there would be a few second period where the car would idle great before it would start to surge again. The surging is consistent with my earlier (pre head gasket replacement) observations when driving - it suddenly starting surging one day during cruising. Additionally, my fuel pressure gauge was showing a fluctuating pressure with the vacuum reference disconnected. Between the Walbro pump and the Aeromotive A1000-6 FPR, I am putting my bets on the pump being the culprit.

Take your front strut to a local shop that installs shocks. They'll charge you about $20 to remove the gland nuts. I did this with my entire front strut assembly with the OE springs. I did not trust myself with the spring compressor so I took the setup to a local shop. I spent $40, but it was well worth it in my eyes. A shop should only charge you around $20 for just the gland nuts.

I am using an ACT street disk and their heavy duty pressure plate. The pedal is heavy but I like the engagement. When pulling away from a stop there really is no slipping of the clutch. Once you get used to it, though, you'll like the driveability of it. While a street disk may not be applicable for your horsepower, I do like their products.

As it turns out, my pump will not hold pressure when the car is turned off. You can actually see the needle drop. This in turn causes the fuel system to air lock and the pump will not pump. You linked an Aeromotive pump. When I went to Summit and browsed Summit's pumps, it looks like they have the Aeromotive pump you linked as their own and not a Walbro. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG3137&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Have the head checked. While mine was not cracked, it was definitely warped (0.02" out!!!!).

I am running all new wires to the fuel pump and utilize a fuel pump relay. Voltage is a rock steady 12+ volts at all times. My ground is to a frame rail near the pump. I understand that it may be a fluke and I have been reconsidering Walbro.

I don't think its flowing at all now. After energizing the system, I would expect the line from the pump to the rail to be full of fuel, yet when I disconnected the line at the pump discharge not a single drop of gas leaked out. I am still looking and I've found a few that may fit my needs. The only problem I have at the moment is my entire fuel system is plumbed with -6 fittings, so I'll most like have to buy some adapters which will then impact my lines as everythign is spaced just so.

Hugh, at this time I have no idea what caused the Walbro to fail. I energized the system (about 5 times in total) and got ZERO pressure. This was after the last two days where I had 40 psi the first day, 20 psi the second, and 0 today (all after energizing the system). I pinched the line after the regulator and again got ZERO pressure. Ok, its not the regulator or something is stuck in the regulator keeping the diaphragm open. I jack the car up and remove the downstream line from the fuel filter, which is located before the pump. Fuel starts to pour out of the filter, a good sign since I have over a half tank of gas left and the pickup line is located below the halfway mark. I then go up to the fuel rail in the engine and remove the line coming from the rail to the regulator.....NO FUEL. I remove the line feeding the rail and only a trickle comes out from the rail....NO FUEL comes out of the line. I crawl back under the car and remove the line from the pump discharge....NO FUEL. I can safely say my new Walbro is dead. It energizes, I can hear it fire up, but its just not pumping.

OTHER than Walbro? I am looking at either a Bosch or MSD unit, but am open to suggestions. I will spend up to $200 for a good quality unit.

Tony, apparently I dyno'd at the same place you and JeffP went to (Dynamic Autosports in Lake Forest). They are 3 miles from my house. I am all up for a dyno day around MSA.