ktm

I plan on doing a few other things: 1) Wolf uses the coolant temp sensor for fuel and ignition control. I plan on logging the CHTS in Wolf as the CHTS is between #5 and #6. If the CHTS is showing a significantly different temperature, I may use the CHTS instead. 2) I am running a full sequential ignition and fuel setup. I plan on reducing the timing in #5 and #6 by up to 2 degrees and adding up to 1% more fuel in these cylinders. 3) My WG is a 1 bar unit. I just ordered a 6 psi unit from ATP Turbo and have an electronic pressure controller that I am wiring up into Wolf (Wolf has a boost control feature). 4) I am going to check my timing at 0, 20 and 30 degrees to verify that my timing is ok. 5) I am already using BPS7 plugs and Water Wetter. The good news is that I can change my head gasket in 2.5-3 hours and my exhaust gasket in 1.2 hours. It's just a royal PITA though.

Pete, Clifton, that is what I intend to do once I get everythign bolted back up. When I first installed the engine, I verified that my timing was correct between Wolf and the engine. I will reverify once it's back together.

Higher octane fuel would definitely help, the only problem is availability. I know places to buy 100 and 104 unleaded around where I live and work, but it makes it rather inconvienent if you are tuned for higher octane and then have to use straight pump gas.

Yep, surface prep is good around around #5. If you look at Cygnus' Good example of a blown HG thread, you'll see he detonated on 4, 5, and 6. I detonated on 4, 5, and 6 as well, with #5 blowing out similar to his. Yes, TDC on the dampner is coming up as TDC. I just reverified this yesterday when I pulled the head. I am thinking that my timing at 15 psi is ok, I was just detonating on the way up to 15 psi. I don't hit 15 psi all that often, usually hitting 10 psi or so quite frequently. My timing at 10 psi was a little aggressive in retrospect.

1 fast z, I verified that during my original installation, but I plan on verifying it again after I install the new head gasket. This is a P90A head, simple rebuild, no porting, running a stock turbo head gasket (the last two that blew) on an F54 block and dished pistons. Compression should be 7.4:1. I am using ARP studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs. Paul, I knew I forgot my load information and I can not access Hybridz from work anymore for some reason. Following are my load correlations, the top number is psi and the bottom number is the load band in percentage. -12.0 -9.2 -6.4 -3.3 -0.5 2.2 5.0 7.8 10.5 13.3 16.0 19.2 21.9 24.7 27.5 7 14 21 29 36 43 50 57 64 71 78 86 93 100 107 So 50% load is 5 psi, 64% load is 10.5 psi, 71% load is 13.3 psi, and 78% load is 78 psi. I am still pulling vacuum up to 36% load. In theory I should not see more than 78%. Wolf interpolates between load bands based on the MAP.

I can't afford to blow a third gasket in as many weeks. I thought my timing was not that aggressive until I took a look at my map again and saw I was at 28 degrees at 10 psi, but 20 degrees at 15 psi. I still detonated #5 clean out the side of the head and removed a 1 inch long piece of gasket! Below are my old timing map (which I blew the HG on) and my new map that I am working on.

I bought one similar to Stony's (a Tial knockoff) from www.siliconeintakes.com. So far it's hold boost without leaking and I do not have any other performance issues to date. I am not getting ANY compressor surge and they shipped 2 springs with the BOV. At the first sign of trouble I am buying a real Tial, but for now this one is doing a great job.

You are lean surging, that is to say, your fuel map while cruising is too lean.

Back from the dead. I just blew out #5 on my car on Sunday. I was on an empty highway, driving uphill and did a 5th gear load pull. POP! psssssht pssssht pssssht pssssht. This is my second head gasket. After my first one went, I had the head rebuilt, pulled quite a bit of timing and added fuel. My AFRs were 10.5 ish to 12, timing at 15 psi is right around 21 degrees. Just like others before me, I thought it was the exhaust gasket. I changed that last night only to be confounded by the same problem. I'll be pulling the head over the course of this week.

I am expecting coal this year. It is the only thing that can explain my run of bad luck. I just blew the exhaust gasket today at #5, when examining the leak my pants ripped.

Why be worried about "mauling something worth money" when American muscle is mauled all the time and still pulls in some good coin. In the end, its a car that you originally bought to drive and enjoy. Nothing has changed.

Ah, I did not see that you were using TWM throttle bodies. Thanks for the reply.

Monzter, if everything works out, are you considering taking orders?

Rossman, vacuum is measured typically in inches of mercury or in. Hg. A good, tight engine with a stock cam usually pulls around 17 in. Hg which is around 8.3 psi. Your 15 psi is most likely 15 in. Hg.

Justin, the LS-1 coils throw a hot spark. I know the coils you are talking about as I saw them at Summit as well. Ron, I hope you did not mind my little interjection regarding the coil type.

I usually have a tall glass of Bombay Sapphire and Tonic or JW Black sitting next to me on my work bench. I find that a little bit of the devil's elixir helps with creative thinking.

"5. Coil Part Number: 12558693, or 2000 Chev. Suburban 5.3L" This is a key distinction. I am running LS-1 coils out of a 2001 Firebird. The coil shape is slightly different. Specifically, look at the mounting tab on the coil. The truck coils tab is 90 degrees to the coil projector; my coil projector is inline with the mounting tab: I would imagine that you would not be able to use Ron's mount and my coil type. The coil projector may hit the plate.

You need to adjust the hood at the hood-to-hinge connection. They are uneven at the moment.

Ordered and installed another Walbro. I also installed an Aeromotive check valve as well as a GM alternator for consistent voltage. We'll see how things go. So far no more air locking.

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/car/491866654.html Great buy for someone.

Check for posts by Clifton. He has shaved marker lights and his car is in his signature. I've been contemplating shaving my side markers too, but I am still on the fence.

Resolution: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/1/1868804

Good to hear that you found the problem. Thank you for the follow-up.

phil, it still engages right off the floor. However, I am not getting ANY slipping of the clutch and the transmission shifts fine, no grinding and its easy to put into gear. Also, I do not believe that my bearing is resting against the PP fingers. I am going to leave it alone for now.