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HybridZ

Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. Unlike a FWD car, most rear drive cars with the engine attached to the trans (meaning NOT a late model 'vette or Porsche 928 with trans axle), the shifter is bolted directly to the transmission. There are some exceptions with 60's Muncies and BW 4+3 in 84-87 'vettes. This does wonder for eliminating play in the shift mechanism. Look in a Jegs or Summit catalog at the Mustang replacement shifters and you will see the 4 bolt pattern. FWIW, the Nissan shifter is a POS and can be replaced with a Mustang aftermarket shifter. Night and day difference. I bought the Competition plus, but the included handle needs to be replaced as it forces your hand up and into the AC controls in the odd gears.
  2. I bought the Griffin for mine. I TIG welded my own brackets to the side so that it will bolt in same as the stock radiator. I have also decided to replace the outlet with a 1 5/8 90 degree aluminum bend so I am waiting on that. I bought one of the bigger Griffins (27 1/2" wide with 1 1/4" cores) for my Camaro. It is installed and works great. Temps never over 200 and that is with a crappy plastic fan and no shroud. Next job is to switch back to clutch fan and adapt the OEM shroud.
  3. Some of the output shafts on later models are not as good for doing mechanical speedo. All covered not in the JTR Z manual, but the JTR TPI/TBI swap manual. Some have one or the other. The 86 Trans Am TH700 I have has an electronic speedo sender, but it is easily swapped for the gear driven one. Personally, if you do not already have the trans, I would go with the 200. If you are going to pay to have either one built, price is about the same. But the 200 is shorter allowing a longer driveshaft, and it has much more realistic gear ratios, especially in a super light car like a V8 Z.
  4. Cap TX Z fest is getting ready to kick off as we speak. Our show is tomorrow. http://www.czot.org and they are doing a hill country drive on Sun.
  5. Awesome John! I've laughed for 10 minutes. If I just hadn't been roped into another 2 years.... I'd do the same.
  6. Looks great Tim. A clean workspace is a joy. Not that I would know...
  7. Any idea what the differences are between the L24/L26 timing sets and the L28 timing set? Books have two different part #'s and I have no way of cross-referincing each individual piece.
  8. They are not directional. At least mine are not. Have been switched at least once to try and get extra life from them.
  9. John, you are WAY more patient than me! I just moved on to the next one...
  10. I have the Precision Gear LSD. Looks exactly like the Nismo unit. Mine cost $550 two years ago. But you have the 12mm/10mm issue that has been discussed ad nauseum in the driveline section...
  11. Search in drivetrain. The LSD is one of the most often addressed/asked question on this board. 87-89 300ZX turbos best source. Not 88 SE all white, it is viscous. Mine is a Precision Gear 12mm added to an 85 300ZX 3.54 R200. Also available through NISMO
  12. As far as distributor ignition goes, I like MSD's least expensive dist. w/out any electonics using mag p/u. Add a 6A and Blaster II. $175 for dist, $150 for 6A, and $30 for a coil, but still $350. Take a look at MSD replacement module. Significantly different than any body elses around $80. http://www.msdignition.com/pdf_catalog/53_56_hei%20components.pdf Add the external blaster II and you should get out for $150 w/cap & rotor. Actually Google'd this and Summit has the ultimate HEI kit from MSD, probably best bang 4 buck in hindsight. $149 with module, coil, cap & rotor, dust cover, adjustable rev limiter, Here is the link: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=MSD-8501&N=400122&Nao=10&autoview=sku My ready to run MSD for my Jimmy was $240 plus the $30 blaster II. Looks like it is $268 now plus coil. You would have to get cap with HEI terminals to keep your wires however.
  13. The first thing I would do is ditch the Accel cap and rotor. I had nothing but troubles with their plastics including broken rotor tips because of either a mis-aligned pin or low spring rate hold down internal to the cap. I was very pleased with the MSD cap and rotor. Most of the aftermarkt OEM's make an increased dwell and higher RPM range module. My only experiece with HEI's is on lower RPM engines, so I cannot attest to the best OEM one. I would seriously consider ditching the under-the-cap module and using just the mag pickup to trigger an ignition box such as a 6A. It is possible to trigger with the module, but why not bypass that animal completely? MSD products are expensive, but almost always deliver as promised. I like the looks of their module, but I am not sure if it is as reliable as the OEM style. Another option to consider from MSD is the external coil/6a HEI conversion. $160 bucks will get you a complete ProForm HEI distributor with a high perf coil and a low-saturation increased dwell module. I did this in my 2x4 truck, but the reduced firewall clearance in my Jimmy sent me to the MSD ready-to-run distributor. Purchased at the same time, the OEM type module in the ProForm has been replaced, while I have had no issue using the MSD. I think Mallory makes an HEI module with a rev limiter? One nice thing about OEM is if (when) the module dies you can get a replacement at any parts store.
  14. What broke in your R200? Most likely it was the spider gears or cross shaft. Too many peg-legged burnouts tear up an open differential. You should be shopping for a limited slip diff, then address your halfshaft problems as they arise.
  15. I didn't read all of this, so I'm not sure if you have found a motor. I have a small journal 327 short block,standard bore with standard/standard crank. I think it is an L79 actually and has domed pistons. It is disassembled so you can easily inspect. I am in Austin and you can have it for $200. I had intentions of building a 302 myself which is why I bought it, but time and money have sent me in different directions.
  16. I've been ebaying since '98. It only took about 4 or 5 hosings before, "Hey, everyone outbids me at the last second." to realize what was going on. In '99 I signed up with eSnipe and never looked back. If I want to win an auction, it will happen with eSnipe. Just bid what you are willing to spend. Sometimes you get a heck of a deal, sometimes you get it for what you were willing, sometimes you lose. No matter, your bid gets placed with seconds left. No staying up late, rushing home from a night out, or postponing a vacation because of an auctions end time. As far as losing to a sniper, Get over it, NOBODY likes a whiner, that's just how the eBay system works. The smokin' deals on eBay these days are "buy-it-now" that just went up that people want to unload. Once again, learn how it works.
  17. Mike C

    I Like Beer.

    How could someone NOT like the concept of micro breweries and quality beer?
  18. Cool. I like the shorty headers, HPC coated and all! A lot of the V8 converts I've seen had zoomy pipes. I like this setup better. FWIW, here's a pic of my 2N before.... And AFTER!
  19. Not familiar with them, but about the same money will get you a 2 stage Ingersol Rand. FWIW, my 6hp single stage cast iron oil filled pump Campbell Hausfeld will do just about anything I want. It is 12 yars old now, so I have more than got my moneys worth. I think the Husky compressors at Home Depot are made by CH, and unless you have several thousand dollars to spend on air tools, the $500 compressor and $500 on air tools is money better spent IMO. 100 psi and 15 cfm is sufficient for almost anything.
  20. Just like the 5 speed, I think the Euro cars were the only ones with factory installed BARS, but the MOUNTS were in all of the '73. At least the two I have owned.
  21. I didn't look at the site, but powermaster has a 100 amp Delcotron that can be wired either way. I got mine from Summit for $100. It was not with the other alternators but with Circle Track parts if I remember correctly.
  22. Hey, Better late than never! (Guess I should read dates...)
  23. Interesting. My last 73 240 parts car had 78 sway bars on it. Front and rear. Oddly enough, it also at one time had the ST bar because it still had the uprights!
  24. Crap. ANOTHER 5 years is gone?!?!?! I'm going to have to get with it...
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