Mike C

I think Terry's post was spot on.

Man, talk about open ended questions. Difference? Everything. Period.

If it is shorter, only because it is no longer the shape it started. Eastwood actually sells a spreader tool to fit manifolds without the supports that have warped in as you describe.

I think they are mostly sold out now, but I got an entire set of AMI (Autometer Industrial) instruments from http://www.surpluscenter.com : boost, vac, oil pressure, oil temp, trans temp, water temp, volt, amp, and an 8000 rpm tach. All together for $100.

Great adventure! I get bored easy but you kept my entertained through the whole thing!

Ow. Hey, I resemble some of that... Hope all goes well, Pete. We'll be thinking about you.

With the pinion still installed, it's a little more difficult. Just use a hammer and screwdriver. You will tear it up, but since the goal is to replace it, doesn't matter anyow. Just hammer it in, out, left, right, push, pull, pry and it will come out. Then install the new one carefully tapping with a hammer. Most seal installers are flush so won't work with the pinion still in the case.

Makes sense. We rotated the stud as well in addition to flipping the copper disc. But that was a 75k+ mile mod. Doing what you suggest would work great I think, but IME just not needed if you have a starter in good condition. I have bailed on the old Delco style starters completely and run Hitachi style mini-starters. I had a battery cell fail in my big block GMC truck and it still started with 10.2 volts and the CVR starter. I actually have 6 of the GM gear reduction starters that I got from a boat mechanic. I have since put two working ones together and have enough good parts for 3 more. These gear reduction starters are so much more efficient than the old school starters. Everybody should switch!

I need to re-evaluate my ability to explain... Except for jumpering the 12v to distributor during start (which is not present on some solenoids anyhow and seems pointless since you are just looping it if it is "jumpered") that was what I was attempting to describe. The ONLY wires on the GM solenoid are the 12v batt cable from the Ford Solenoid switched side, and a small jumper that connects the large GM lug to the post where the ignition switch was removed. I make them from 10ga and ring terminals, but the Painless kit comes with a flat metal plate I believe. The GM solenoid is still in the loop, you have just eliminated all of the wiring from the car from the circuit. This maximizes the voltage sent to the GM solenoid to switch which increases reliability and minimizes the hot start, which is the point of doing the Ford solenoid. The Ford solenoid still uses the GM wiring, but since the solenoid is not subject to as much heat since it is remote mounted, it has no trouble switching with the ignition circuit current. But everybody looks to be on the same page with all the posts.

OK PopNWood, you've got my interest. How do you bypass the GM solenoid completely and yet still engage the starter? Obviously the Ford starter doesn't need the arm to initiate bendix engagement but IME, the GM starter doesn't do so well when its solenoid is removed.

I agree with Mikelly, but $400 won't do it IME. With the stand, two extra sets of dies, the bender, the degree ring, and a good notcher, I spent $1400. But I bought the HD bender for 2" tube and the extra die sets, so you can get out for about $1000. Mine is a ProTools bender and I bought the Pro Notcher as well. http://www.pro-tools.com they have the standard 105 bender package for $635. Shipping was ~$100 on mine. They offer free instructions on building one of their benders that uses a hydraulic jack. They sell the bender complete for $495 W/out a die. This might be possible to do for $300 and the Harbor Freight Notcher with a couple of bi-metal hole saws for another $50. If you don't have a welder, figure another $750 for a 230v MIG and gas bottle. If you are planning on ever doing more than one cage, this is the only way to go. But if you are only doing one, it is probably cheaper to pay somebody to do it. My interest lies more in doing the work myself, but you make the call!

If one terminal is not hooked up now, it won't need to be after the remote solenoid either. The 3rd post sends 12v to the coil on GM cars that came with points. SInce the ignition coil is powered through a resistor wire on those cars, they only get about 9v when cranking. First disconnect the battery positive cable. Then mount the remote solenoid on the car. Remove both the ignition switch wire and battery cable from the solenoid. Make a 10 ga jumper wire (or use the flat solid metal adpater with the solenoid kit) to jump the ignition switch wire you removed terminal and the battery cable terminal on the GM solenoid. Now fab a short battery cable that goes from the GM solenoid to the SWITCHED side of the remote solenoid. Hook the ignition wire that you removed from the GM solenoid to the ignition terminal of the remote starter. Now hook the battery up to the remote solenoid. Reconnect positive battery cable and drive. If you are concerned about any of the directions, mine or the factory's, leave the wires off the GM solenoid. After the remote is hooked up, use a volt meter to test for the correct switching and voltage based on key position.

I have the Centerforce II with traditional clutch disc, not DF. It was under $250 from Summit. Designed for the '82-83 turbo, mine is NA. No complaints with the clutch, but I have either the wrong clutch collar or throw out arm, so trans has to come out again. Doh! It does release since installation of an '89 240sx 11/16 slave, but RIGHT at the floor. OK to drive, but disc drag won't let you shift at speed.

My perception is that the wheel torque the manf. give is for dry threads. If you use lubricant, this changes the torque spec. Although after searching for this, I found many recommend lubricant. Just make sure and not get it anywhere BUT the threads. I found as many manufacturers who said don't do it as do, so who knows, now.

Wheel torque should be based on the fastener size. As examples: 7/16 is about 65 ft lbs. 1/2" about 110 ft lbs, and 9/16"(14mm) 145 ft lbs. (this is from my GM books on my Camaro, my Jimmy, and my 2500HD) The wheel BOLTS on our BMW are torqued to 75 lb/ft. You should NOT use lubricant on wheel studs, but I must confess to using antiseize on my boat trailer wheels for obvious reasons. (learned the hard way as usual) Using the OEM rated torque is the way to go. Most have a range, and if it makes you feel better, torque to the higher end.

Get a copy of Grassroots Motorsports. They have some vendors that should be able to help you. Besides, if there is any ONE thing in your life where price is no object: helmets.

I used a new Nissan slip yoke on mine. The 27 spline is the same as a Mopar, but the OD (seal ID) of the Nissan slip yoke is uncommon. You can take a Mopar yoke and have the outside turned down. This will allow you to run the 1310 u-joints. This is just not the weak link on my car and I elected to stick with the Nissan slip yoke. My driveshaft was $400 with the new slip yoke, NEAPCO adapter with 1310 u-joint and Nissan u-joint in the front. I was VERY pleased with the service of http://www.wencodriveshafts.com

Your car is so similar to mine it's amazing except for the cam and I've always run my car on street tires. First thing I would do is a cold air intake. I have the factory cowl air cleaner. The air cleaner and an underdrive pulley took my car from 13.0s to 12.7's. Get rid of the little cam as noted, go to a mechanical roller in the 250 degree duration range on 108 lobe center ~.540 lift or so. Add more gear, 4.10's are ideal. 28" tires get more rubber on the ground as well and are also suited to 4.10's. Victor Jr with a 1" spacer. Leave the line at 3500+, no need for the dual plane intake. Your current carb is a good choice. Cal Tracs are also an excellent solution, but plenty of cars run in the 9's and 10's on slapper bars. Poly bushings are a negative in the front, but a plus in the back. Get the car to sit level if no slightly nose high. Align for the strip with camber set with a front rise like it is accelerating. Tons of other things you can do, but this gets you on the way.

Check also whether the 135 uses a 15 amp or 20 amp plug. 15 has the traditional spades on the plug II just like that while the 20 has -I so it won't work in a regular household outlet. And if that's the case, go ahead and get the 175! You can always rig up adapter plugs, but be aware that you won't be able to get full power from the 135.

I like the gear ratios of the BW better myself BUT with that said, a shifter is $180 and a driveshaft will set you back as well. I paid $400 for mine with the Chevy joint in the back and the Nissan joint in the front. The Nissan is a bolt in for your current driveshaft. All about the $ as usual...

I like this one: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MIL%2D31505&N=400380+308674+115&autoview=sku Comes with a windage tray which is probably the most important addition for a street/strip car.

Pete, I'd Get away from that 10.5" clutch, it's the best thing you can do. I know, I know. But it's only money. If I remember correctly, there is a significant increase in grip with no increase in pedal pressure. I ran a McLeod 11" hybrid Borg & Beck/Long pressure plate that would be awesome in a street strip car, but expect high pedal pressure. I have a Centerforce II in my car now with a McLeod Street/Strip disc on the same Hays billet steel flywheel and Lakewood scattershield. This has been an awesome combo for my car.

Great, what all did you do?

My motor is 355 ci, 9.75:1 with GM ported 492 and a Comp mechanical street roller. 236@.050 and .550 gross lift. The iron heads really eat the total advance up.

GM specs PORTED vac for the HEI advance. If you run 20 degrees initial, you don't have to have it and can get 34 degrees total with the average GM distributor. But if you are setting timing according to GM's instructions, With 8 degrees initial, about 14 in the distributor, the vac advance +10 gets you up around 32 total. One of the shortfalls of the HEI is the same as most OEM distributors. NOT enough mechanical advance for a performance application, you have to jack the initial advance way up. I don't run the vac advance on my MSD distributor, it would just not run a stable enough advance at higher RPM's, but with the interchangeable bushings, you can set the amount of mechanical advance you want. Currently, I run 24 degrees mechanical advance witha 16 degree initial for 40 total.