Mike C

My wife's 325is 5 speed and my silver 72 240z (all stock except exhaust, electronic ignition and K&N-which her car has also) were dead even from 0-70 or so. Could be a 330 auto/convertible and a 240Z are real even. The auto and additional weight are both penalties.

http://www.zcarparts.com I can't imagine how you couldn't find anything either here or on the net...

Sounds awesome! My boat is an inboard ski boat. Top speed is about 48 mph. But it gets there quick! As you note, having to move a lot of water with the hull is a big penalty. The rebuilt carbs have same warranty as new. IME, remanufactured products seem to have fewer failure rates when I buy them. I assume this is because they are actually tested rather than boxed and sent out.

I put the Edelbrock Marine 750 on my 5.7 liter Mercruiser and am very pleased. The 750 is 25% bigger than the 600 and the 5.7 is 32% bigger than the 4.3. I think you will be fine with the 600. They sell those marine carbs remanufactured. Shop around and you might be able to save big bucks. Mine was a reman, from Jeg's I think.

Rockin'. Keep us updated!

You may want to do a little research on cam sizes. The Vortec truck motors are the first roller cam motors that made it into trucks I'm pretty sure. It may be that a factory LT1 roller is a little bigger than the truck cam and you could get a used one from a Camaro/Firebird for pennies.

Here, check out the spec sheets on the Miller 210 and the Hobart 210. http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermatic_210/ http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/IronMan210.html From http://www.Cyberweld.com, the Hobart 210 is $1093 with free shipping and the Miller 210 is $1249 also free ship. From http://www.Cyberweld.com, the Hobart 250 is $1554 with free shipping and the Miller 251 is $1762 also free ship. The Hobarts and Millers are built on the same base. The Miller may have more options like pulse timing etc., but you need to evaluate if you need those things. The Hobart seems to be a better deal with equal warranty IMO, but it may not look as cool to your buddies in your garage. http://www.Toolfetch.com has the Hobart 210 for $1029

The 96-99 Vortec heads have a slightly different bolt set up. This is actually a negative as the one area they fall short is in intake gasket failure. The heads are infinitely better flow wise. A Vortec 5.7 Sub will blow your 95 in the weeds, comparatively speaking. You can run an aftermarket intake with a TBI adapter from Turbo city. It won't work quite as well as the CPI (central port injection) of the factory setup, but will be much better than the factory motor of your 95 (especially the current one!) But if getting it done with minimum fuss/hassle your best bet is to just put a long block in it. The LS based motors are completely different. If a new vehicle was in the works, now might be a good time to upgrade to a 2000 or newer Sub with the 5.4 or 6.0 liter motors which make much more power and get better mileage than the older motors.

Hate to bust your bubble, but the Hobart and Miller welders are virtually identical with different packaging. If you don't want Hobart, go Lincoln. Personally, I think any of the well known brands are good. I heard crap about Centurys being crappy also, but I have had good luck with mine. But it was the most expensive wire feed they made and not the cheapest. And it looks like they have been purchased by Lincoln also. WHen I was researching TIG welders and was talking about the Syncrowave 250 vs. Precision TIG 275 the respone was, "Do you like red or blue?" All good machines. If I was in the market for a new MIG my choice would be the Powermig 255 if I liked red or the Millermatic 251 for blue!

My local Airgas dealer is an HTP dealer also, I would think yours was as well. Their brochure has all 3 brands.

Great truck. I know Tim loves his, and I love mine! I did a disc swap on my 70 GMC also. My truck has the Dana 60 and not the Eaton however. Can't go wrong with a 67-72! Check out http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com. Unfortunately, I need to sell mine. I bought an '02 Duramax truck and have just too much stuff! So anybody interested, drop me a note!

I would. The very last one next to the firewall has broken on every Z motor I've had (4). I currrently have ARP stainless studs on my L6 except for the very front under the water neck. I replaced all of the bolts with studs as well. The ARP's come in sets of 16 and the Z has 17. Figures. I would have bought the 300ZX studs from Nissan had I known the ARP studs were $120 for the set... But all I had was a part number and SUmmit had no listing, so they were drop shipped from ARP price unknown! But they sure look cool with their stainless washers and 12 point nuts...

Depends on what year ignition you use on the electronics you need for that. Triples don't work well with vacuum advance since any one runner doesn't pull sufficiently to get full advance. My solution is a Mallory dual point w/o vacuum advance. They also make a Unilite. You can mod the Nissan distributor, too and get rid of the vac advance. But you have to modify the centrifugal advance to get more travel in order to not have to run 20+ degrees initial advance. All of this for max performance. The previous owner of my triples ran stock Nissan electronic ignition from a 78 280Z in his 240.

My 85 R200 was from a turbo car so was 12mm ring gear bolt. Also, pinion flange was square and would not rotate in my 240z. Hit the crossmember. I had to swap on round flange from 78 R200.

Also be aware the early E88 has smaller chambers than the late E88. The late one is pretty much identical to the N42, justwith smaller valve.

The Beemer is my wife's car, not mine although I work on it.... Garage is 1360 sq ft., not counting the two car on the house!

Cool. We have a '95 325is. We've had it 7 years now. It had 33k on it when we got it. The brake light switch is a POS. Had to put 4 in the car.... They trigger a circuit failure message on the computer. Did brake pads once, and O2 sensor, and a right rear wheel bearing in the 75k miles we've put on the car. Total repairs under $300 DIY. We love the car and would definitely buy BMW again. The 2.5 is rated at 189 HP, but does it a little higher than the 2.8. We drag raced it against my silver 240 and the cars were dead even from 0-80 where we had to shut off. I mean DEAD even. We'd buy another one in a NY minute. I' still conemplating a 92-94 318is as a wicked Drag Car. Back halfed and stuffed full of SBC! High mileage 18's seem to be around $3k. The 1997-2003 528 5 speed IMO is the ideal sport sedan, and arguably the best looking 4 door ever built. But what the he!! happened to that new 5? Blechhh.

Yeah, you may want to look into the 255/50. I have 275 60 BFG's on my 69 Camaro and they rub on the inside in a turn. And compared to the Z, the Camaro has massive wheel wells. Mine are on 15x8.5 with 4 7/8 bs. This leaves about 3/8 inch clearance on the inside and 5/6 on the outside, but body roll does cause rubbing on the inside.

KVR. I have been super happy. Have Ross from ModernMotorsports hook you up. I had him get me a set for my Impala. Brake feel improved dramatically while practically eliminating brake dust. Bought same for my ZX front/SX rear disc conversions.

I looked into this a couple of years ago. I had lined up a freebie Xterra front open diff, but it fell through. Since I got my Precision Gear, no reason to follow through. But if a fellow was serious, the best thing to do would be to score an open diff from the Xterra and put some numbers to the two.

Why not just use a transmission blanket?

Advance Adapters, TransDapt, and Lakewood all offer conversion adapters and bellhousings to go Ford/Chevy or Chevy/Ford. But I agree with Phil. You can buy a brand spankin' new T5 from SUmmit for Ford for $1200, but junkyard Chevy trans seem to bring $600+.

Radical post switch? My buddy has a '74 'vette convertible. Weighs 3800# or so and has 3.08 rear gear. With an 86 IROC TPI 305 and a Summit flat tappet TPI cam it ran 13.97 in Houston, taking advantage of the zero feet about sea level. It was controlled with an Accel DFI and had 1 3/4" Blackjack AK5000 'vette headers on it, but except for the cam the motor was stock with 8000 miles on it. Another advantage was the TCI 11" lockup converter. He did this swap in 87, it was the first TPI conversion I had seen first hand. Completely changed my attitude about 305's and performance. To top it off, it averaged 28 mpg on the road. (Not that I would ever build one!). I still think the '92 230 hp 305 and T5 is an ideal Hybrid swap if you can find a low mileage donor.

Cool. My Dad worked for a company called Command Instruments in the 60's. They made all sorts of stuff, but their biggest innovation was laminated helicopter blades. Charlie Command was also a musician and used the same technology to build the Ovation guitars. My Dad and the previous owner of my 'vette designed and built the first ovation amplifiers to compete with the Fender Bassman of the time, which was an accoustic nightmare when hooked up to instrumentation. But the drivers of the time were so bad they had to "dumb down" their amp to keep from massively distorting the driver.

He was reading too fast and thought you had said 1/4 mile!