Zmanco

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=adjustable+proportioning&category0= Any of these would work as a replacement for the prop valve. You'll see that there really are only 2 models available, just branded with different names. It should be installed in the rear brake line anywhere after the what you are calling the "brake light sensor". BUT - changing the prop valve will not fix a sinking brake pedal!!!!! Also, if I were you, I'd be concerned that the shop isn't able to tell the difference between the brake light sensor unit, and the prop valve. Also, that they think the prop valve is the source of your sinking brake pedal is another concern for me!!!! It tells me that whoever you're talking to has very little understanding of braking systems. Perhaps they can put a more experienced person on your car? On my 73, the prop valve is on the firewall near the brake booster. The "brake light sensor" unit is on the left front fender below the MC.

If you're saying that you can put your foot on the pedal when stopped, and the pedal gradually sinks down, then I'd focus on the MC. I can't tell from your description if you replaced it or not. Also, did you bench bleed the MC before installing it? If not, probably no amount of bleeding in the car is going to get rid of the air. Do you still have the stock proportioning valve installed? If so, it needs to come out as you now have 4 wheel discs. The stock prop valve is set for drums in the rear, not discs. I doubt that's the cause of your issue with the sinking pedal, but you'll need to remove it none the less. I'd suggest installing an adjustable valve, but I know others have just left it out and have been happy with the results.

Check that you have a 3 row radiator and that it's in good shape. If you do, I'm sure at this time of the year you'll be fine, especially if you stay out of the boost. I doubt it would be adequate on a track day in August though.

http://msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=26021 I was going to post a question and found that the author had already discussed it. Since I'm seeing a delay of 7 at low rpms and low map, I think I'll try his suggestion to do 2 passes.

That picture sure looks like a Holley Blue with a Jeg's label on it. I had one and it's pretty loud and totally overkill for dual webers. If your existing pump has enough volume capacity at 2-3 psi, that will be fine for the webers. There would be no benefit going up 2 psi. It sounds like you're not happy with your current noisy pump, so don't go this route as it's not likely to be much quieter. The key to a generic (meaning inexpensive) replacement is to get a rotary (not vibrating) model. I picked one up at autozone a few years ago for about the same price as yours and with the engine running it can't be heard.

I believe the delay is measured in cycles (not seconds) and each cycle is ~100 msec (1/10 of a second).

Just a heads up on the delay setting: open up a log and look for an event where the throttle goes from 0 to 100 (or something close). Then look for how much later you see the AFR change. On my NA at low revs the delay is 7 cycles. I believe this is because I have my O2 sensor installed past the header's collector all the way down in the main pipe. I did this because my header is ceramic coated and I didn't want to drill through it. But the max setting for delay on megalogviewer is only 4, so there is some error. I mostly see it at low revs and low MAP levels where it recommneds much higher VE values than are actually needed. I've been meaning to post a question on the MS forum to see if there is a work around to increase the delay up to 7, but haven't gotten around to it yet. Anyone here dealt with this?

Jim, I'll be down at Pueblo (PMI) for an open test/tune day. As for 280z suspension, I know the springs/struts are a little different than for a 240z, but I don't think the spring rates etc are much different. Daniel

The springs I purchased were red, not blue, and for a 71-73, not later. My understanding is that Tokico only offers one spring rate for early Zs so don't know if the color matters or not. I agree with BJ that they are a bit stiff for the street, even with the illumina's on their softest setting (which isn't soft at all). But once I put the strut bars on, things tightened up and the chassis handles it all rather well now. Also, with added negative camber, I don't have to run the tire pressure as high which helps with driveability. Just last weekend I added the adjustable camber bushings up front for the lower control arms and after aligning them, it has made a noticeable improvement in front grip, as well as stability at the limit. Of course, I've only been able to test this on a few onramps. but will have it out on the track again next Friday.

If you have to buy a new alternator anyway, I'd suggest you upgrade to a later model with internal voltage regulator and more capacity. I originally used the 280zx (80-83) which gives another 10 amps IIRC, but after installing fuel injection needed more. I'm now running a 90 Maxima with 90 amps output. Another popular one is the GM 1 wire. The nicest thing is these higher output alternators have no problem putting out enough at low rpm that my headlights barely dim at idle. Search here and on the web and you'll find a bunch of writeups with detailed instructions.

I put this exhaust on about 3 years ago and it has held up pretty well so far. But I had to take it to a local muffler shop to get it to fit properly. In the end we made enough adjustments to it that I probably should have just had him build one from scratch. It would have been the same price, had less welds, and fit better. If you don't have a shop that will do custom work at reasonable price, then I'd say go for it. Otherwise go custom. As for the muffler sound, it's a dynomax IIRC, and I liked mine until I had a series of backfires through the muffler at the last track day towards the end of the hottest session. It "rearranged" enough of the sound deadening material that it's now a lot louder. I'll probably replace it soon as it now has a bunch of reasonances at all different rpms. I can't fault the muffler for that.

Besides supporting sequential injection, what do these more expensive engine management systems do that megasquirt doesn't? I'm not trying to criticize anything or anyone, just curious what you get for the extra money.

In your first post you said the headlights went out. Did you mean the dash lights? The dimmer only controls the dash lights - it has no effect on the headlights. If it's the switch on the stalk, try wiggling it. If the lights come on, then that's the source of your problem. Those switches wear gradually and hence usually don't fail completely all of a sudden. BTW, it's not hard to take that switch apart and clean the contacts. It's been discussed here and on classiczcars.com.

Going back to triple B's original questions, what are the tradeoffs between Peak/Hold and Saturated injectors? Why choose one over the other?

About 3 months ago I switched to FI and built my own wiring harness. I used some wire I had left over from other projects but mostly used wire from a package deal I found at Harbor Freight. Last night I swapped fuel injectors and this was the first time I had to deal with any of the wiring under the hood. I found that HF wire is already getting very stiff due to the heat the insulation has experienced under the hood. I'm not worried (yet), but it was far more brittle after 3 months than the stock wiring is after 34 years. I think the HF wire is probably fine for general use, but for high temp applications it's a poor choice. FWIW, the blue appears to have suffered more than the white. It's too early to predict if this will become a problem for me over time, but in hind sight, I wish I had used a higher quality wire. "You get what you pay for" continues to be true.

One night my headlights just shut off for a few seconds and then came back on. A few weeks later I had the engine and radiator out and noticed that on my 73 there is a connector in front of the radiator that supplies both headlights. It had come apart just enough to become intermittent. I pushed it back together and have had no issues since.

Thanks guys, sounds like I shouldn't have to worry about replacing my discs any time soon. Jon, you had asked about 2 vs. 4 pinion configuration when I first received it from the group buy and I checked then to confirm it was the 4 pin.

Jon, thanks for the answer, and that makes sense to me. But it leaves me with another question: why was there such interest in the thread I referenced in my original post about making new clutches for the R200? What's different from the R180 with regard to CLSDs? Why would one need new clutch plates for the R200 and not the R180 LSDs?

Bump.

Last summer I was in my Z on the way to a local shine-n-show at about 10 am on a Sunday morning. I saw the local highway patrol officer before I even turned onto the road he was already driving on. He stayed behind me for a few miles and then turned his lights on. He said I had failed to use my turn signal at a traffic light. He kept me pulled over for almost half an hour and eventually gave up as I had not done anything wrong (I'm pretty sure I had indeed signaled, plus it was a dedicated left turn lane with its own light.). Ryan, you know my Z - except for the panasport wheels, it's all stock on the outside. And it's all one color - silver. I'm 47 and not likely to be confused as a teenager. This guy was just being a jerk and looking to find something. I'm not sure if he was profiling the car (doesn't make sense to suggest profiling me as the driver) or he just felt he needed another ticket for his shift.

This morning I saw this quote from Scott Adams (creator of Dilbert): "If there are no stupid questions, then what kind of questions do stupid people ask? Do they get smart just in time to ask questions?"

Let me add another perspective. I'm sure you have all noticed that more and more of your life is touched in some way via a computer connected to the internet. And more and more it's just not practical to sort and file everything the way paper systems used to run. (Each item existed in a single file under a single topic.) In other words, more and more a key skill to achieving success in whatever you do is knowing how to find useful information. 2 years ago when I switched my personal email to gmail I more or less gave up on filing. Search engines like google are good enough that with only a little bit of skill I can find just about anything in a very short time. I think that more and more this is the way we are going to find, receive, and save information in our lives. I realize that teaching people to search isn't the point of hybridz. But I am often surprised to see how poor some people's skills in this area are, and that's a shame, because with a little practice they could gain access to so much more good information. Who knows, maybe the skills we develop here at hybridz are going to help us in the rest of our lives? /

Here are pictures of how the surge tank and the 2 pumps are mounted. The bottom pump is a Walbro feeding the high pressure to the FI system.

I saw this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123979 and began to wonder what options are available to those of us with a CLSD (Power Brute) in an R180? Mine is fine now, but I understand the clutches are wear items and I doubt they're sitting on the shelf at Autozone. Better to get started now I think.

Braap, I found the same thing last spring when I searched. Nobody stateside had anything to sell. My local pick-n-pull didn't have any Broncos. FWIW, I just checked the receipt for the Australian one. It was $91.84 delivered.