Zmanco

I have 437 cc/min Ford injectors from Motor Man that work with the stock fuel rail. I found that in the winter when the rubber shrinks that I needed to add a second set of hose clamps around the injector barbs, but other than that, they've been great. Edit: these are just barely on the low end of the range you listed so may not be big enough for your build.

I just checked on the spare tranny in my basement and the fill plug is below the input shaft meaning that the only fluid that should come up against the front seal is splashed there. In other words, it's not designed to have the fluid constantly pressing against it.

Why not drain the fluid, and refill with the correct amount and see if the problem goes away?

A long time ago I had some rubber plugs that fit into brake hoses so that when you removed a caliper, you could quickly push the plug in to keep the rest of the fluid from draining out and having to deal with air in the M/C. I came across these at mcmaster http://www.mcmaster....y-plugs/=hir3ac which might work and now need to know what the ID is for braided brake hoses on S30 cars. FYI, I'm using the Toyota 4x4 up front and 240sx in the rear in case that affects the hose ID. I'm hoping someone has a hose that's not installed and can measure it.

I have a 73 as well and did my own harness and upgrade to H4 bulbs before the kits were available. I run 85/100 watt bulbs adjusted reasonably. Given how low the headlights are on the Z, as long as the housing has a decent cutoff pattern, and you don't aim them too high, they don't look any brighter than modern HID lamps. I've run this setup for about 7 years now and have never had anyone even flash their high beams at me. I'd suggest you buy a quality H4 housing, adjust them to a reasonable height (park on a dark road and look at the headlights from the perspective of an oncoming car at 50 - 100 feet to make sure you're not blinding anyone) and you'll be fine, unless your local inspection actually measures...

Both Autozone and O'Reilly carry Felpro. You can order through your local store or online. rockauto.com carries them as well and for me, is often faster than the local stores since they don't stock much for older cars anymore. Rock Auto's lower price coupled with the time and gas saved often makes them cheaper than the chain stores too.

Looking good! Clever to locate the relays in the factory location. BTW, what type of radiator and fan are you running? Doesn't look familiar.

I have to replace one and the consensus here is that it's 14mm x 1.5. Hoping my local Ace has one.

If the max VE values are in the 180 range then you cannot double the VE table as the max is 255. But that is also clear evidence that you have the dead time set too long. I also have an old scope, but in order to measure dead time I believe you need a current probe and good ones are not cheap. My method IS cheap, as long as you don't value your time too highly Google the injector part number and "dead time" or maybe "opening time" or "open time" and see what you find. You may get lucky and find someone who has measured the opening time (dead time).

I've used Felpro on both NA and turbo L28s and have had no issues, save one time when I was having trouble tuning the boost controller and over boosted beyond 20 psi repeatedly with the stock head bolts. Hard to blame Felpro for that, especially since I later found out that my torque wrench reads about 10% high (head bolts were only torqued to ~55 lb-ft). Make sure the head and deck are flat, and then properly clean both, and then properly torque them, and you'll be fine using a Felpro on an NA engine.

Rock Auto has the rear seal for the T5 only without the metal flange that covers the yoke. Less than $6 IIRC. For the hose between the oil pan and turbo drain tube, I just used some heater hose I had left over. It's been on for 2 years and more than 15k miles with no issues. I had to pull one end off to change the head gasket the other day and the rubber still looked and felt good.

Don't forget that unless you and TrumpetRhapsody have the same injectors, it's unlikely that they will have the same dead time.

I'm afraid I can't help you with deadtime as I no longer run PWM, even though I have low impedance injectors. I had repeated issues with the drivers overheating and temporarily shutting down at the track. I added resistors and never had an issue with it again. That said, one way to set deadtime without a scope is to tune a stable idle with 2 squirts, then switch to a single squirt and see if the AFR changes. If you have the dead time set correctly, it won't change. If dead time is too short, then the AFR will go rich. If it's too long, the AFR will go lean. Dividing req fuel by 2 and doubling the VE table (use the TS tools to do this so you don't have to manually edit each cell) will result in exactly the same PW. But you will obviously have double the precision to adjust VE. Try it and see.

Cut Req Fuel iin half and double all the values in the VE table. But I'm surprised at how low your VE values are at idle. I have essentially the same setup as you and run with req fuel = 3.5 and have VE at idle ~80. You may want to check that you have the correct injector opening time for your injectors. If it's set too long, even by a small amount, then you'll have very small VE values at idle. It won't make as much difference under higher load.

A few months ago I called Dave about buying springs and he basically said that he was no longer using that supplier and he was too busy to find a new source.

Check these out if you're willing to cut them down to fit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOG-6558 200 lb/in from a Chevette. ~$75 shipped for front and rear. I have a set on order but it looks like they won't ship for another 2 weeks or so.

Thanks Nathan, the picture helps. I decided to order the MGW shifter and just do it while the tranny is out of the car.

I began to wonder if maybe 10W60 was a typo, but it's not: http://www.castrol.c...ntentId=7018619 Wow, I can't imagine needing to operate an engine across such a broad range of conditions without being able to replace the oil with a different weight. For the original poster, as you can probably tell, in the US we just don't have oils with such a wide range. 20W50 is the most extreme that I've seen, and even that's becoming harder to find. BTW, this is a full synthetic oil. Most engine builders recommend using a non-synthetic oil to make it easier for the rings to seat. Some also prefer a single weight such as 30W.

I'll second FricFrac's comments about crimping and soldering. When I did my install I soldered all the small signal wires, but only crimped the large gauge wires. I knew better, but wanted to get it back on the road. The other day I redid the connectors where power is pulled from the alternator. There are several connections including the inline fuse. Just doing that resulted in the typical system voltage as reported by megasquirt increasing by nearly 3/4 volt. I was surprised it was that much since all the old connections were in otherwise good condition.

Yes, your description is causing me to rethink it - don't want to pull the tranny down a second time. And yes, I'm planning on Nederland on Sunday. Would be good to see what you've been up to over the winter as well as your shifter.

I received this reply: "those are not part number, I think those are item number anyway OBX R200 lsd will fit with all Nissan R200 long nose" I emailed him back 2 more times asking him which of the 5 models I should order as I don't want to find out later that I ordered the wrong one, but he never replied. I even sent a 3rd message letting him know I was ready to place the order, but again, he didn't reply. I figured that if their customer service is this slow pre-sale, it would be horrible if anything went wrong. So this morning I ordered from a different ebay seller, motorsportauctions, with 100% positive feedback. It cost $50 more, but I just received an email that they've already shipped it. Probably money well-spent.

Interesting that no one is using ATF. The Redline website specifically calls out that their ATF is used in T5s. Are you all running aftermarket shifters? The stock one feels fine to me, at least shifting it on the bench. My plan is to install it and upgrade the shifter if I'm unhappy with the stock one. I had my eye on this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/...em=360452098648 if I go that route.

Some say that you cannot mix rockers and cam lobes once they have established a wear pattern and that you should have the rockers resurfaced. Others say they have not worried about it and didn't have an issue. I've always resurfaced the rockers as it's not all that much money and the alternative if a lobe fails is to pull the head and replace the cam which is more expensive and time consuming. Lash pads are selected in order to get a proper wipe pattern. More than likely you'll need a different size than what you currently have. I don't see why you would need to replace springs unless you were going to a much more aggressive cam and the current springs were inadequate.

How are you measuring oil pressure? The factory oil pressure gauge is notoriously inaccurate. Install a mechanical pressure gauge (they're inexpensive here in the US ~$25 from Summit), even temporarily, to check what the pressure really is. The pressure valve is controlled by a spring behind the large bolt at the bottom of the oil pump. You might want to pull it out to make sure that everything is ok. Lastly, turn the ignition on but don't start the engine. The oil pressure gauge should not go beyond zero. I can't help you with your questions if this will damage the engine.

I'm getting ready to swap to a T5 out of a 280zxt and wanted to hear what others running with it think of the two approved oils. Background: Nissan specs both Dexron and 80W90 gear oil as acceptable for the non-world class T5. From what I've read, some people had problems with 3-4 shifts with 80W90 that went away when they switched to Dexron. I'm curious what others are running and your experience with shifting, both at the track and on cold days. 280ZX FSM Recommended Fuels and Lubricants.pdf