1 tuff z

Just finished listening [twice!] to the video-simply awesome!

For the 72 [your sig]? I have one-shoot me a pm or email; palermodavid13@gmail dot com

Any brake upgrade has + & - to it. I spent many hours searching / reading information here before I spent my first $ upgrading. Hybridz is a literal treasure trove of information which I like to refer to as my personal z braintrust. RebakahsZ, as you correctly imply nothing is simple. Yes, you may need larger wheels to accomadate larger rotors/calipers and some modifications to allow ebrake functions to work properly.

WTB 1970-72 [no 73] 240z front bumper. Plan is to install it on my 73 using the 72 and earlier brackets. Current bumper is painted, so condition of chrome is not top priority. Would like it to be straight and pretty much rust free and...inexpensive. pm or email me if you have one please. palermodavid13@gmail dot com

15/16's master, initially using the pads mml supplied [can't remember the brand now, see their website], then upgraded the rear. Called and spoke at length with engineer at hawk, suggested I start with, at the rear their hps [not enough], then to the hp+ [still not enough] and was tired of spending $100 each time for an experiment. Silvermine rear works, now the only $ I spend are to replace the pads. Rear rotors seem to be holding up very well [3 years now, 4x2 day track events per hear and I see longer sessions as an instructor], on my 2nd set of pads. No regrets with the current setup and wish I had done it sooner.

I experienced same issues with mine-modern motorsports 13" front and 240sx rear. Tried many things; more aggressive pads rear, remove stock prop valve & installed wilwood prop valve but no help [even removed wil prop valve-still too much front]. Ross from mml kept blaming my system; bad master cylinder, bad rear calipers [funny, I replaced them all and it had zero impact on the bias issue]. My bias was verified by using an infared temp sensor as well. So, purchased the silvermine rears, problem solved. Funny, I had to actually used the prop valve to tone the rears down a bit-a nice problem to have! I think the silvermine rear rotors are a larger diameter than the other Nissan swaps with I believe yield the desired result [along with larger caliper].

I also like the shaved door locks as well as the welded headlight buckets, shots of the other side and rear? What are your plans for; wheel/tire, suspension, drivetrain?

I would not have thought of that, thanks for posting. Guess If i wanted to be really cool i could put my thumb print on each primary and have them emblazened forever with the twist of my key!

Posted pic of what you need, pm me if I missed anything or you have any questions.

I have my current Sanderson brand LS1 shorties coated, not jet hot or such but used Swaintech's white lightning coating [click here]. I did it primarily for rust resistance, but also for heat management. So, thought I'd call Swaintech and speak with one of their tech people. Described 'our application' and directly asked "if you didn't work at Swain, would you pay to have ss headers coated for an LS1 Z that sees street and track duty-but does not race?". His reply, "no, unless I wanted something that looked...pretty/nice, then I'd use the shiny ceramic, not our white lightning [cause ours isn't pretty, only functional-which is why racers use it]". I thanked him for his candor, he said "that's why we're here, to tell you when it's the right fit". Since my Z is not raced - just driver events primarily at Watkins Glen, combined with enthusiastic street driving, I have decided that my ss longtubes will remain, Naked! I encourage you all, if considering coatings to read about the benefits of them and determine if they are for you - as I have done.

I'll check tonight if time allows, if not then tomorrow evening. Think I have what you need-bell crank [mounts to the 'stud' on the firewall next to the rod that comes from the accel pedal], linkage and bolts for the piece your left pointer finger is near. What I do have may all be replated though... Below is what I believe you need. Bellcrank & plastic bushings, circlip to secure it, bolts for the piece at the end of the throttle rod at your finger tip [bolts it to the firewall], ~7" adjustable rod and a decent condition used throttle rod boot [yours is shredded]. $40 for all of in the pic shipped usps priority mail to your door. If I had them unrestored they would be quite a bit less as the replating process is not cheap.

There are several pieces that run from the firewall to the balance tube, do you need them all or do you have some or? Pic would be helpful. With that said I may be able to help once I know exactly what you need. pm me when you get a chance. Ft. Campbell, my first duty station, D Co., 101st Avn Bn. 1st active duty unit to get the Blackhawks!

Here are some pics of my existing exhaust in my gallery [drivetrain folder]. When the longtubes arrive and are installed and the exhaust modified to mate with the new headers we'll install a v-band connector where you see the existing traditional 3 bolt flange in the single part [aft of the tranny].

Found my [downstream of headers] v-bands and t-bolt clamps for the intake here. stainless steel, and as you fantasized, easy on / off!

If you guys want, I can ask jimmy how much for modifying the lokar dp. there is a small allen set screw that fixes it to the 'stick' part.

Purchased the Lokar brand oil dipstick for my LSX swap just after I installed the engine as I did not like the stock dp. A few weeks ago, after putting the z up for the winter the idea came to me to take the dp to my cnc friend and have him customize the 'knob' part of it. He 'shaved' the top, beveled the edge and engraved the classic z logo, pic shows the end result!

Same cover from 70-83, have one in pretty replated yellow zinc finish if you're interested. pm or email me palermodavid13@gmail dot com

Here is a shot of mine. I'll work on getting a close up of it. Anyway, custom billet, titanium with old school Z logo on top, drilled & tapped to fit my Tremec T56 6 speed.