Careless

what tensioner locations do they use?

Sorry gents. My room mate took the digi-cam to a friend's to take pics of his new car. I'll take pics tomorrow.

Does anyone know the difference between the two engine main bolts? Are they exactly the same? Outlets in AUS are selling RB30 and RB26 main kits for different prices. I'm under the impression that they're different, and the loads on the bolts may differ from both. Does anyone know of a way of comparing them? My RB26 that I'm scooping the engine head from has not arrived (and probably wont for a while), so I can't check for myself, but I'd like to order and have them here for when the time comes to put'er all back. Any help is greatly appreciated. Raff

I think that is both one of the weirdest and COOLEST z cars i've ever seen! Nicely done =) Oh wait... is that a Z with an AC Cobra front end, or an AC Cobra with a Z rear end... hmmmmm ok, so that makes it TWO of the weirdest and coolest cars I've ever seen. HA! =D

Post all you want, you've done the hard part already I think my install would be just a tad easier, as I can maneuver the motor areas where the double-ended regulator. However, your motor looks a teeny tiny bit smaller than the one i've got. The good thing is I got 4 of them regulators, and I think two are shorter than the others (rear doors), so I might not have to modify them if they're too long. Looking at the 280z manual regulator, i can take the Camry LE model motors I HAVE and put those right onto the stock 280z reg! however, It's even heavier than the stanza unit, and that's balls! Power windows and weight savings sounds like a deal to me =) I'm gonna go take some pics.

anyone notice the places with this street as an address?

This was taken from another website, (it's a honda accord reg and motor), but basically the same thing you're looking for. Due to the motor being attached at the top portion with both cables, you have extra motor mobility/positioning in comparison to the motors that have cable systems on both the top and the bottom of the regulator. Infact, my stanza reg looks almost exactly like that.

I'm hoping I can get into the garage tonight to work on some of it, at the very least. perhaps get the tabs on the window and have them lined up with the reg. But I won't be able to get it fully working yet. But I'm almost 100% sure that if you're going to use any system, this is the one to use. Just remember to take everything when you grab it. every connector, on both sides, every bolt, even the windows if you can (or atleast break them and get the screw tabs for the reg.

I also forgot to mention that the regulator for the power windows, WITH the motor is a little lighter than the Z regulator. HA! (i think, seems that way anyways... and it's not so dang hard to remove either!)

That looks like a nice and easy fix, but a bit too bulky for my eyes. Especially on the brown door panels. But I would have never thought of a simple solution such as that one. If you could get the brand, i'd like to know what other neat products they've made in the passed. Nice find for an easy work around to a well desired feature! I'm adapting Stanza parts to my Z, so i'll report on that soon.

Hey everyone, I took apart some interior pieces from two cars yesterday and today, and I'd like to share what I found to be some interesting parts that could be very easily modifiable to fit a interior. Most have to do with the doors. I've taken apart a 91 (the one with the CA20) Stanza GXE. I took the entire power window system, as well as the door lock mechanisms. What I found was that the power window system is almost PERFECT for the Z windows. It fits in the Z door easily, and it uses only two mounting points on the window, and the regulator and motor assembly are straight forward. It uses a half inch thick bar with a cable pulley system (no scissor type, here). It's mounted using two bolts, and should be easy to set at the right angle to allow the window to move up and down. Another good feature of this, is that the motors themselves can be mounted about 16 inches away from the regulator themselves, and the motors are quite powerful when the track is lubed and the battery has ample life left in it. It's a good idea to take all the connectors and cut them on the OPPOSITE side of the door harness, that way you get both sides of the appropriate connectors, from the door and the interior. However, taking those connectors out of those small corners of the Stanza is a PITA, i tell you. It's a good thing the bones in my hands are loose, cause I've made them into shapes that I didn't know hands were capable of being in, all for those connectors! *shakes cut and bruised, flappy fist* The door lock mechanisms are a flat type of solenoid poper, and are most likely easily openable aswell, if you can get locks that have micro-switches installed, or use the ones that come on the stanza too. Remember to take everything from the doors that you can, and the glass too, if you intend on taking the bolt hole mount tabs (they might be hard to take off though, but I gather that it could be done (will try soon). It might be a good idea to get at the Rear main harness connector, just under the passenger seat. It's a weather pack connector with 2 pins or so, and it's a nice unit, and could probably be re-pinned, or cut close to the pins and resoldered. They come with a removable rear face, so that the pins can be accessed. However, I didn't get that connector because the car is being driven onto the trailer to go to the scrappers tomorrow. I also took apart a 92 (i think) Camry LE V6 today. Took all the same parts out, however, the DOOR HANDLES and WINDOW SWITCHES are very nice. the door handles LOOK like the Z handles, and are made of die-cast steel, and then chromed. It has a very tough finish, and it's a quality unit. AND it only needs about 1/3 inch of cutting around the stock Z mounting hole to get to fit. And if you have a black interior on your Z, it might only need a hint of colour die to get the plastic colour to match. (the grey on the door escutcheon is actually almost black, so it's hard to see the contrast, except for the fact that my door was EXTREMELY dusty). The window switches are small and square, and have holding tabs on the opposite side. They would require the actual door to be cut just about an inch in either direction, and the door panel to be cut to house the switch as well. they are about 1.5 x 2 inches in size, and are a nice unit to adapt to the Stanza setup. Another great keeper from the Camry is the solenoid popper for the door. They are HEAVY duty units. I mean, BIG solenoid poppers for that kind of locking mechanism. I think it's because it's integrated right where the latch is, and it gets some kick back from the opening and closing, and it's got a nice THUNK when it's activated. Maybe Toyota tried to save money when using the Previa solenoid poppers on other cars to order a larger bulk. They might be a better unit than the flat and weaker Stanza ones, but We'll see how that goes. I also took the Power mirrors and Mirror adjustment switch from BOTH cars, and I might be using the Camry one to control a cable system for the fender mirrors when I get to that point (they're going on the shelf). I might use the stanza power mirrors for another feature on my car that uses Camry C-pillar quarter windows. THIS YOU GOTTA SEE, but when I'm closer to body work. I'm anxious to show you guys what that's going to be used for, and I'm sure that with the other parts that I've got ready to go on, it will be quite a treat I'll try and get the window frame and the window back on the z (if I get some graphic work out in time), so that I can post results. I'll probably end up posting pictures tomorrow, but if it works, we may have a nice junkyard donor to get us some nice bracketry and devices for power windows. I will be rewiring my entire 76 280z interior, so I'm hoping that whatever I wire in will have the proper relays and whatnot. If not, I don't think it will be too hard to make the kit work with a test light and a multimeter, and such tools. WILL KEEP YOU GUYS POSTED Raff

IF i remember, nengun has good prices, and they're probably somewhat of an OEM middle-man warehouse, before the go to HKS for badging. So it's quite possible that they're cheaper in price because they have no name, but Nengun knows who they're supposed to go to next, instead they take a detour to the purchasers (you) house. could be true, i'm anxious to hear their reply.

The only suspension mods I could think of would be stronger front coil springs, but that's not a problem until you get the engine in and find out how much it weighs. Chances are the stock suspension that handles the L6 engine just fine will work just like a stocker with the RB26 engine, granted it has two turbos hanging off on the drivers side. However, with that kind of power, you may want to think about putting power to the ground after the engine is in. However, don't go testing the suspension's limits if you've just finished restoring the car. The stock suspension might be good, but on a docile road car, it may not be the brightest idea to shove 300 horsies on the back wheels and go for happy-fun-time. Worry about the suspension when you've had a chance to start the car and drive it around. Or get a good suspension first, look around the proper tech section of the forum and see what other people are doing to help with getting power to the ground and steering heavy engines in the Z. that should be a good place to start. You may end up asking more questions, but they might be more focused, and a little less vague. I'm still not sure on suspension for my RB Z myself, but when I get there, I'll worry about it, considering it wont use a Z type suspension anyways.

They only made 100? hmmm, i wonder why JustJap has so many to spare. perhaps they were the bulk of the order. If you could get a part number that'd be great, if not, I'll have to call up Gates with the VoIP at work so there's no long distance charge (i don't think)

Does this person use the Gates Racing belt? If not, there's no point in asking for pictures or wasting your or his time. I'm on a mission after the racing series belt. JustJap.com sells it too, but it makes no mention of where the tensioner is to be placed. That's why I'm wondering where the hell he gets his belts from, as I've been through the entire Racing Belts catalogue that Gates offers, and none match up as close as the non-racing.

so does anyone have experience with Romac or Ross balancers as opposed to ATi ? I might end up being a guinea pig because the Romac looks like a nice unit too.

that's also the area where (correct me if i'm wrong) the BRE car had thick angled plates that tied into the upper portion of the dogleg area (just under the window, in order to brace the roll cage a little better, or easier, without welding (bolt on part) so I could see it being pretty darn structural.

Apparently the Romac Balancer supports the P/S pump pulley to be bolted onto the front of the engine as well, and it has the water pump and alternator pulley machined into the housing, as well as timing marks engraved and etched. it comes in a neat red too. although I'd prefer green =(

Hi Fellas. So on the topic of Harmonic Balancers... it seems that ATi is the damper of choice. 18.1 SFI spec, good for 600 or 800+ horsepower. yadayada. But, what about the Ross, or the Romac Balancers? I've been reading some forums and seeing that a lot of Mustang Cobra owners are switching to Romac Balancers and swearing by them. Did I mention they're a lot cheaper and it's quite possible that the RB versions may be available locally as well? ALL Romac balancers are also 18.1 SFI spec, too. Just like the ATi dampers. http://www.romac.com.au/ They're way cheaper too. Romac RB30 balancers can be had for 289 AUD. Perhaps even cheaper here, with conversion rates. What say you, fine gents?

Nice, I think i'll have to do that, since I have an S14 IRS

so whats the diff between the VHR and the VRL in the R390?

Try reading the first post, and the ones that follow it in this thread. 94407 has been noted, and replaced with a suitable belt for those who can't find it or cross it with Gates. And I am now on a mission to find the Racing Series belt. Dayco 94407 is anything but a racing series belt.

And is this due, in part, by the sandblaster rig? If so, I definately need to get mine going. I'm gonna blast the entire dang car before the summer ends.

i thought thats what the balance tube was.

check out the alsa-corp soft feel paint series http://www.alsacorp.com/products/softtouch/softtouch_show.htm