Careless

+1 for this seller!

someone doesn't like your mopar-ness!

there is a thumb squeeze button for moving the lever, and a toggle button mounted on a ribbed plastic plate for OD. It's the ribs that make it look like there are more buttons.

So you mean to tell me you posted your progress on your hood, and didn't expect any opinions or criticism on what OTHER people would have liked a little better on this hood, had they done it for themselves or to their liking? That's quite close-minded, to say the least. I didn't say it was a piece of crap, quite the opposite actually, if you read the rest of what I said... I just said I didn't like the side vents. You are acting very defensive towards me and me only for some reason. Nice to know how personally some people feel about individuals on this forum, while not knowing what reason for. Thanks. I guess you also missed the "THE HOOD" Thread, in which everyone was calling it ugly, crappy, shitty, and all sorts of other words. I just said that hood looked like Atreyu from Neverending Story... hey, some people saw the resemblance, and some people like Atreyu. It's NOT LIKE I said the hood was a piece of ♥♥♥♥. again, Thanks. I guess I'm the meanest person on here, or something?

=/ guess my tank ain't upto standards.

beautifully done. =) probably looks better than the day it was sold.

you could probably pick up an S13 that isn't running or was in an accident that would keep drifters away for like 500 bucks.

rb26 head (pending) with mild head work, spool rb30 rods, wiseco pistons, hks 264 9.5 in/ex cams, hks cam gears, acl bearings (pending), nice z0rst (as you guys call'em), and about 11:1 comp'r no turb

fridges have nice long/wide pieces of sheet metal

i'm not sure if that comment was directed at me, since you're in a piss-mood. but i meant to say that i like the product, but on those pages you would have a tough time finding out the disadvantages or problems/side-affects associated with them, considering the ppl writing the articles probably got the units for free if they spoke highly of the product.

are ppl not entitled to their own opinions? i think the hood is great. it's possibly more functional with those side vents, and I'm glad the production quality came out really well and it's getting painted and your car is getting closer to having a nice addition to it, but i don't like the side vents. sheesh.

those wheels are aiiiight and they came with street/drag tires. not bad

I was wondering the same thing, but then upon reading that article, i realized it was nothing more than an ad aswell. they wouldn't mention the side-affects.

I'm trying to get a set of ARP's for the RB30 or atleast some factory replacements from RIPS. Rocket Industries sells ARP main studs for the RB30, but they are a kit that they put together using their own measurements and parts-bin bolt sizes that they have there. Or it could be some custom, but I have to do my calcs first too in order to know for sure. Contact Al @ ARP if you need any info if you plan on doing RB30's with mains people!

OK LADIES AND GENTS, Here's my rendition of this fine DIY surge tank. Whether it works as planned, who cares. It was quite fun to make and use my tools again cause I haven't had time to get in the garage to work on anything lately. So i bought a 40 dollar china-special drill press. Used valve spring compressor pivot rod brackets and two bolts to secure the thing so it was as close to plumb-90 as visually possible, (the weld on the bottom sorta made this hard) here's what I came up with. My surge tank is so glam. Close up, for a nice 8x10 glossy. In the preceding photos, I ended up using 3/8 barb fittings with 1/4 hold/thread size, and tapped them using a metric M14x1.5 tap, seeing as no store I went to (not even Home Desperate, where I bought the fittings....GOSH) had the proper tap. The plug is there so that if I plan to run staged injectors, I can use a second return line if I choose not to T off into a main line between both fuel rails. If I do go that route, I'll probably drill two more taps on the diagonal portion so that I can run two fuel lines to the front as well. Not sure how i'd do it now, but that's later stuff anyways. I used yellow gasoline rated teflon tape, which sealed up the threads really nicely. The item used was an S14 JDM receiver dryer. The small holes held on the pressure sensor switch and the lines to the unit, and they are not threaded all the way in. The glass hole in the middle will be good for detecting capacity to some degree. Or not. But I chose not to break it as it's not neccessary. The unit was then taped off with cheap unstretchable electrical tape in traditional yellow colour, to match the gold barb fittings, and then sandblasted to a rough sheen to remove the vice marks and such. Comparing this unit to a Toyota Sienna unit, it's about half the size, and same diameter, so I might end up doing one of those up and giving this to a friend of mine with an AE86, since it's a tad smaller. The volume of this s14 unit is roughly that of a coke can (thinner, but taller, in usable internal space)... so about 320ml of gasoline can probably fit in there. Thanks for posting this small and fun project. I had fun doing it. And I got to bust out my room mates camera to do some photos again. Nothing spectacular, but it was aiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight. Let me know if you have any questions. Ignore the box that's in the photo. He didn't wanna leave the set of the photoshoot with this sexy collection of nipples that I had fun tapping last night.

Hi Paul, Upon taking apart the EFI pump that comes on the 280z, I noticed that the small retainer gear that held the small pump dowels (for lack of technical knowledge on proper nomenclature) in place had a sort of build up on it. I'm not sure if it was just heated gasoline that cause carbon deposits, or if it was actually metal that had been finely ground to a small deposit like consistency. This covered the pump retainer gear and some of the dowels very finely, and I believe it was the cause of it's ultimate demise and seizure. I then replaced the O-ring with one that fit as best as possible on both the top and bottom of the middle gasket plate, after I had cleaned the pre-filter with some brake cleaner and hand polished the dowels and retainers with some 600 wet/dry sandpaper... Put her back in, turned the key a couple of times, and 25 years later, an L28 has its life back. What I'm getting at, is that if this build up seem to have happened on a normal pump setup at normal RPM, I'd assume that accelerated pump speed would cause it to wear faster and create film more often, as well as wear out the internal diameter of the middle-gasket plate to the point where it has too large a clearance to pump (but I think the way it's designed doesn't allow for that unless it's run for 25 years, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.. IF that short of a time span in this case, because the retainer throws the dowels out far enough to reach the ID of the gasket plate, even with large clearances... in fact, it might even pump more if they're further out) And I think as long as it pumps enough gasoline to coat the roller dowels and retainer gear to the point where it will be able to lubricate it somewhat, It should be ok. This is all in reference to the 76 280z pump I have on my car. BRAAAAAAAAP BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaapapapapapaapaaaaap TONY D, Nice bit of info there. Do you have pics of said setup? I'd imagine that it was quite hefty in size, and weight quite a bit too, no? My number one reason to do this is so that it doesn't damage my new pistons =)

wicked. thank you very much people. I have the main bearing cap bolts for my RB30 at the machinist. And I don't know if i would dare use those on holding up the engine just incase i plan on reusing them. LOL

UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH, i just want to know what the thread pattern is if anyone knows it. Aswell as the lenght. I don't have a tap set right now (stolen from a friend's house) and I don't want to take the tranny bolts out of my cars tranny to prop up an engine. If i had a good reason to hold up my engine with an L28 bolt set, now that I know, I would use it. but i don't... and this could be information that OTHER people can use if someone would be so kind.........

so you mean that it never drops into the negative in relation to integers, but in relation to absolute, it drops below the 14.7 atmospheric pressure at 0 above/below sea level. therefore the balance tube will still be able to send proper pressure to the MAP sensor?

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRR! someone help me for real, mang!

oh, and the next one i'm doing is gonna be made from a toyota sienna unit. the thing is the same width as the civic and 240sx one, just twice as long

show us, you meany!

Made mine yesterday night I'll post picks of it as soon as i wire-wheel or sandblast the unit to remove all the vice marks. I couldn't find a Thread Tap for the damn 3/8 fitting I got. 3/8 -16 was not the right size, and 3/8-18 was not available. so I went with a M14x1.5mm metric tap, and loaded on the yellow teflon tape. It seems to be tight as hell, an i think it will work nice. I have a tap at the top of the unit that I have to plug with the same fitting, but a butt-end on it. I had a plug for it already, but the thread differed from the others on the top, and if I plan to run staged injectors I'll be able to run a second return line back to the top of the pump. The only thing that sorta bothered me, but I think it will be ok, is that the single tap at the bottom where the high pressure pump picks up it's fuel from was somewhat thin, i only got about 2 and a half to 3 threads onto it. but i think it's ok, because the differing tap size (metric to imperial) only allowed the top 3 or 4 threads on the barb fitting to thread tightly anyways, because they're tapered. so I just loaded on some more teflon tape there and made it extra tight. now, if you plan to use a 240sx receiver dryer from japan or from an s14, BE WARNED, that you will have to pull a metal disc out in small pieces through whatever hole you drill at the bottom. IT IS A PAIN IN THE ASS. It took about an hour to use needle nose pliers to grip that sucker out, and it's a good thing it was perforated with holes so that it could break into smaller pieces, or else it would have stayed in there. There is also a plastic grommet and a pickup tube inside, with a bunch of dessicant and two sponges. make your bottom tap smaller than you need, because the needle nose pliers will crush it to some extent. Happy surgin'

Hey man, no worries about the cam timing, we'll sort that out when it comes to that point =) You and i both! as we're just about in the same time-frame of the build. my block has just been acid bathed, and will be bored next week =)

I'm not sure what that's even supposed to mean, but as I said, I like everything on the hood except for those two side vents. I feel that their profile and the way they rise does not match the profile of the entire car or the hood.