Careless

If only that excuse about shoe-mirrors worked in grade 8 when my French teacher used to stand in front of my desk.

Good stuff rob. Do you have a part number for the new gear and the rear main seal for the RB30 as well!?, and any crank related parts that go on there, other than the bearings?

looks like the jza80 supra seems to be the inspiration for that cool dash.

so the balance tube can't be used because the megasquirt map sensor is engineered to sense positive pressure only? or can we not use the balance tube beneath the ITB's?

mails Ron a box of lolli-pops......with express-post

nice job veritech I think the D70 has a bracketing mode, you may want to use that at the real wedding or the next rehearsal if you happen to attend. You will get better results in terms of aperture/lighting and shutter speed/intensity. The camera will do all the work for you. and shoot in RAW mode too if you're not already. Post processing is important, especially in wedding and ceremonial photos. uuuuughhhhhhhh <-- (sound of me editing 300+ pictures of the same people with the same smiles and the same drunken looks on their faces....*this is AT the wedding*) LOL

damn son. eat a burger.

awesome find. we should put all RB stuff in this thread.

can we at least see some pics of these mounts?

hahah ,he didn't quote his height, though.

when you say straight up, do you mean pulling it with the engine upside down, or pulling it with the engine sitting on the rear main seal. either way, i don't see either as being too good an idea if you intend to use the crank, unless it takes very little force. and chances are, you're going to have to grip it from a rod journal. maybe not the best idea. if you pull it with the engine on sitting on the rear seal, well... you have the main cap thrust areas that will not let the crank move more than half a millimeter anyways, so i dont know what that would achieve. also. what you probably COULD do, is loosen all the bolts on the oil pump, and give it a tap from the back side, so that it pushes the crank sprocket forward a bit., then when you seat it back in the position it is when bolted in, you should have screwdriver clearance.

lol what the hell

boooooooo. the only thing i don't like about this car are the rounded portions under the headlights. in my opinion, it makes every z car look like it has some sort of a down-syndrome (pardon the choice of words), and it's just not too hot looking. it makes it go from sexy to somewhat bulbous and chubby. I think the other lines on the car are excellent, it just needs a new front bumper. i wouldn't even go subtle-z

well if rust seems to form on the gear, you could always slip something over the crank snout (a pipe, maybe) and give it one nice whack so that it pushes the gear back. that outta loosen the gear a bit. then take a towel and wrap it around the gear and use a pipe-wrench / channel locks to twist it up off the snout a bit, then use a pry bar. I had trouble with mine too, but i used a screw driver to get enough clearance behind. I actually used two screwdrivers with solid steel tips (not magnetic tips, they chip easily) and twisted them in my grip, to push away from the back of the oil pump housing. it will come up SLIGHTLY.. bit by bit. barely looks like it's coming. I had the same problem with my stupid crank pulley too.

i like the rear kinda. i think it's nicely done but in rough shape.... the front needs to go. and if you get some beautiful wide wheels to sit flush with some slightly stretched, or some really meaty tires, it will look pretty damn nice.

I think the SHO engines are pretty darn cool. and I wish rontyler would finish his SHO shopping cart! *shakes fist violently* but besides that, the SHO is a pretty nice powerplant, lots of flow, and probably good for a zee. I don't see why not. I mean, lets face it. If someone put a hayabusa engine with a turbo the size of a watermelon, it'd still be kinda cool in a zee. Even the Jeep 4.0 litre is aight, considering the fact that i've replied to the thread regarding that engine in a semi-negative fashion (heard bad things). But either way, every engine is going to bring the question of "why?" into the equation. And the answer to that equation is "why not?". so get started on that sho-z already

none are centered, guys. if you wanna see how bad it can really get, depending on wheel width, offset, and tire size... look at this cool video of a nice burnout with a z

that also looks like a pair of the old enkei wheels. they're supposedly very light. i think they're nice

mine was on like a beeyotch. what i did was use two pry-bars aswell. it got them as close to the rear as i could, and i just thrusted forward on the handles as evenly as possible. I sorta didn't do it gentle, cause it just slipped off, i had to pretend i was shoving the prybars a bit, to get it to kind of jerk the gear out of place. it's that initial force that you give it that will break loose any small rust that forms in there that would potentially seize it on just a touch. removing it relatively no force will lead you nowhere if it's seized on there.

am i the only one that thinks..... sorry doods, i had to =/

so how much does one of these engines go for?

who wants to play tennis?!

they're at the ruschman festival having fun! congraaaps!

oh come on, you can do it without removing the entire engine! unless there are other goodies we don't know abouts ?!

That is the reytec, I believe it's somewhat programmable, and whatever it's been adjusted for isn't hard coded, becuase it has fuel maps and such... but you'd have to find out from tomei about what other parameters can be adjusted. how about emailing them? they do have a translator that will make sense of what you and they are trying to say to eachother.