Careless

are cheviots a popular brand, because i have a set of pretty good condition Cheviot Sonics... and i must say, they're pretty nice for a small wheel. =)

amazing! u should polish the timing cover to a uniform finish so it's easier to see who dunnit!

How much does the ATi balancer weigh?

Hey guys, I didn't do much, other than clean the garage up. I noticed that two of the stanza regulators have even LONGER wire cables than the other, therefore it can be positioned with even more flexibility in terms of fitment. As for the window regulator bolt tabs that go on the bottom of the window, I've located a part number from the stock stanza window, as i dropped it by accident on its corner, and it exploded into a mess of crackling glass (quite fun though, thankfully I was wearing my glasses). Code: 80320-41L00 Price:$7.27 So after sweepin up a mess of glass, I compared the other door tracks to the Z door. looks like the one with the longer cable will need to be taken apart to be cleaned. I just hope I don't break anything while doing it. ALSO, the solenoids for the stanza are small flat-top box type ratcheting solenoids. They should be perfect for the Z car. BUT, if i can successfully mount the camry ones somewhere, I will, because they are heavy duty solenoid poppers, and are a touch stronger than the stanza ones. however, the stanzas would fit better, and are probably easier to service. I'm going to put the door assembly back together soon so I can plan the way it's supposed to go back on. hopefully it's not a huge mess to put back together, i labelled all my bolts and such that i took off the car, so I hope I didn't label anything wrongly.

i think rehost is a better idea. someone should rip that stuff

There's someone on the SAU forums that made a sump flange, but they turned out to be mediocre in quality and there were other issues with the kit. However, I'm curious to know if you've read anything on designing efficient baffles and sump trap doors and such. It's one thing I'd like to work on after the engine is mounted and the car is drivable.

Sweet. so if i got aluminum hubs from a R32, they'd have Hicas arms, and wouldn't be cast-iron? I'd like to retain the hicas links so I can put an eliminator bar, but the iron hubs are a little weighty.

like Pop N Wood said, haggle him for 400 or 450 at the most. I have a Century welder that doesn't even have a tensioner drive on it (I use two magnets in funny ways to give the roll tension), and i've welded a table out of an old angle-iron bed frame that has been holding up a water heater tank that's about 600 - 700 lbs full for about 8 months now. I'd say its not too bad, but go check it out definately, and ask what's wrong with it. Mine is a Century Powermate 225 mig, and i got it for 300 bucks =)

making it wider would spread the load out a bit more, but it would still suffer from torsional movement because they can twist out of alignment in reference to one another because they're not tied together. This was also discussed in a thread about breaking radiators because of the weak front end and rad support. It twists enough with the stock cross member to break a rad, i could only hope that without it, the radiator won't split completely in half. lol.

holy mother of man. just noticed that the intake tract doesn't go into an intercooler or straight into the plenum. I'm guessing it's routed under the boat for the water to cool the charge?

hate'chu looks so nice.

adding 875hp? LOL holy shizz. bring your car to the bonneville salt-flats and go for the land-speed record with a street car. nice!

I called a bando distributor in Canada. They don't have this belt, but i was told it is no recommended for automotive use... =/ It is not intended to be used in a high heat engine bay, such as an automotive environment I called Gates Australia, and I've been talking to a marketing specialist in getting their new belt to be available in the US, since the RB30 is getting more popular here. People with RB25's and 26's in their canadian skylines (now legal for a couple of years now) are sometimes opting out for the larger displacement of the RB30 when their engines start to let go, or need a rebuild... so it just may happen after they've tested the new belt. Updates as they come =) Raff.

Looks like for automotive use, Bando has TB291 for 152 teeth, like the Gates T291. They also have TB306, for 150 teeth, with stock tensioner/idler location. And this belt you speak of must be for high-rpm Machinery, and not automotive. It may be what we're looking for in regards to a suitable replacement for the way overbuilt Gates PowerGrip GT2. If I could use the GT2, I would, cause it's a strong belt. Perhaps this one is good too. Do you take any pictures before you installed it?

Bando 250S8M 1200 = 1200mm = 150 teeth, stock location 1208 = 1208mm = 151 teeth, might require redrill 1224 = 1224mm = 153 teeth, might work as well, maybe too loose Is the Bando belt strong compared to regular belt? thicker? better material? 5 years you've been running it now? how is the condition of the belt with visual inspection? Thank you for adding your belt specs, very much appreciated. =)

where is your tensioner located? did you redrill the location above the water pump? is the belt thick or like a regular belt?

I'll look into the Bando belt series. Thank you. My main goal is to get Gates to offer this belt in North America, since skylines are getting popular here, and RB30's are coming over now too. They should atleast allow you to make a special order from a distributor. Gates is a racing type belt, and it's stronger than any OEM replacement.

I think that's the best idea i've ever seen for a forum =D

I think you missed the part where I mentioned that I'd like to be able to walk to the store to get my parts. Rather than pay shipping on an already marked up item (you mark them up from whomever you buy them from, or you would not make money), I'd go to a friend of mine who works at a Toyota, Nissan, GM dealership to get parts at nearly cost, while saving on shipping to. Or i'll go to a place called Motorcade, where another friend works, and they sell aftermarket replacements, and he gets an even better discount. Re-invent the wheel? no. I'm trying to buy the same rounded wheel from someone who can supply it at a reduced price. Is there something seriously wrong with that? Either you have a lot of money, or little time. Or a combination of both. I have the inverse of whatever you have, so therefore, I can take my time and find parts that will cost me less. Again, read my comments above. I have friends that can get me what I need, so long as I tell them EXACTLY what I need. I.E. - Part numbers or direct replacement equivalent numbers. That includes both timing belts, idlers, and tensioners. I think I can successfully find where to put the idler. It doesnt have to be within 0.1 mm of the location, seeing as it uses a tensioner that can be shimmied to either side for compensation of slack. I see the water galleys as being the only thing to look out for, and since it's 9 mm deep, I think I can handle either breaking through and locking the stud with some teflon tape, or just cutting the butt of the stud and threading it to 7mm. So being that I don't want to pay 175 US + shipping to get what I could get for say... 115 dollars Canadian, total, I think I can live with the savings. That's half my water pump money. Correct me if i'm wrong, but the person who initially found that the dayco belt would work (which seems to be a tested and proven belt if not noted as the most used belt for RB30 swaps) tried it on his car, and reported with success. So, granted that the Dayco 94407 belt has everything EXACTLY identical to the T291 belt, do I have much to worry about? belt spec sheet is the same as the dayco, as I have a dayco belt that came on my RB30 from the SOHC. And the T291... it's 0.5 mm thicker and has a strengthened core. The belt is the same as the Dayco. So do I have to worry about this? It wraps around the crank gear completely, and wraps around a friend's stock RB25 cam sprocket. RB26 cam sprockets have the same tooth profile, don't they? And again, exactly the same as the Dayco from all the guides or users I've seen. Again, I know your offer is a good one, and it's probably better for people like you that want to get stuff done and delivered and over with. But I don't know if you noticed... A lot of the cars on this site are quite the long project, and have a lot of time put into research and cost savings to get them to be where they are today. My engine will proceed in the same fashion. So thanks for your input, and your offer, and your concerns about my choices, but I will just use my T291 belt, and get my tensioners from a local outfitter. I am willing to learn from mistakes, and I will let everyone know if I make one, because i'd have to post it here to correct my belt chart, wouldn't I? I don't want people to go through the problems that I do, based on my recommendation. That's not cool at all. But then again, I did buy the GT2 belt based on a false recommendation, and I'm not sour about it. And I am also not afraid to apologize or admit defeat, so when my belt breaks and I smash 24 valves, you can make an animated GIF of yourself pointing at my screen name and laughing if you so desire =) Deal? Thank you.

can i post a pic of my girlfriend in this thread too?!

Rob, I understand you're trying to help, and it may be frustrating to hear people penny pinch... but I (as well as almost everyone I know) like to save money where I can. Especially when I'm sure some parts are available more locally than across the globe. The shipping costs alone of getting the tens/idle pulleys from you would be the price of what I could get one of the tensioners for here. If I was buying your rebuild kit, then sure, shipping wouldn't matter to me. As most of the parts are not available here, or not that I know of (im sure different people have different sources, but not all together). I don't know of 5 people to warrant the expense of buying these kits, or I don't think I'd come across 5 people fast enough for me to make my money back in order to use it for things like your lightweight flywheel, which is one of the top items on my list, since I don't think I've found a better alternative thus far. I'm not trying to take money or business away from you, I'm just trying to make it easier for people in North America to grab their parts locally by introducing belt numbers and such that are compatible. Thus the reason why I did a search and found that we no longer have to order Dayco 94407 belts, as they are the same as the Gates T291 (that took quite a bit of sleuthing). The Dayco 94407 is only from ONE engine, and we never got that 1.7 litre Mazda Diesel. But nowhere does it mention that 152 teeth, 8 mm pitch, 1216 mm long, and 25 mm wide is the exact same as the AEB A4 Quattro 1.8T engine belts. Not even on the cross-reference guide. But infact, it is exactly the same. I even found that the GT2 Powergrip is not a viable solution, even though it's said to be an option in SAU, CALAISturbo, and on Cubes' guide. I SPENT money buying that GT2 Powergrip belt, to find out it didn't work, and that I can't use it. How many people need that same belt? Probably no one that will buy it from Ebay, that's for sure. And I can bet you that if they are buying it from eBay, it's for an RB30 conversion in the US, and I bet I'd get questions about it's fitment... and to them I would say "no, it wont work, that's why I'm selling it" I don't want other people to have to go through the same mis-information and spend money in places where it could be used better. If I bought two belts that didn't work, that would total roughly 100 bucks US. I can put that towards better parts, seeing as those belts would be useless to me. The bottom line is that I just want to see people advance, rather than go backwards. Losing money is a setback, don't you agree? I'd like to help people build nice cars in any way, shape, or form that I can. And I'm sure you do too (well obviously you do, since you're trying to give us a good group buy), but as an individual, it's a little harder. Same goes for the RB30 ARP Main stud kits. For a company like ARP, I shouldn't have to go through someone in Australia to get these kits, seeing as from what I know, ARP products are made in the USA. Know what I mean? It's just a vicious circle that doesn't make much sense, to me, anyway... Raff

11110-20P00 Pan Assy Oil

I'll do what I can. Sleep is for the weak.

Thanks Rob. I was under the impression that by the SAU thread and the Cubes guide, you'd have to use two tensioner pulleys in both instances. I've emailed gates australia regarding the parts number or tooth count and belt length to see what they can do about exporting a couple to the US. If I can't make that happen, I'll use the T291 that I have now, and then I'll contact you regarding a a purchase for the Racing belt. what do you sell them for anyways? JustJap.com sells them for 119.99 AUD (i think aud). However, even the manager at JustJap doesn't know where the idler or tensioners were supposed to be placed. Thanks again!

Yeah but I can't get new stock bolts because anyone i talk to doesnt have a parts number for them, and I don't feel comfortable using my old ones. I know you've told me that they're built well enough to re-use, even on monster engines, but If I can get a set of new main bolts, I wouldn't bother with ARP main studs.