Careless

I'm probably going to use it once i acid dip my doors to get the tar off the inside (no wonder they look untouched!) if I don't put the same kind of tar on the inside of the door again, I'll use the engine washer to spray phosphoric acid on the inside. I should probably use it to clean my aluminum valve cover that i'm trying to polish too.... maybe tonight

have you considered the SR20VET? It has 280 hp. they're a little expensive though. I like the QR though. It's a peppy motor, but when you take a look at the stock QR rods compared to stock SR rods, the motor is very underbuilt. I've also conversed with someone who had the headgasket go twice on his. Once on the stock gasket with all factory stuff, and then once again on his turbocharged setup he installed after the first headgasket went.

what's everyone's take on fidanza's two piece design vs. a single billet cut piece? im ordering my flywheel from http://www.jgy.cc JGY Customs.. but it's for my RB30

Hey i forgot to mention that eastwood has a beautiful range of sanding blocks. get the elongated flexible set. they're a treat! and remember to sand diagonally while holding the block straight (sorta try and guide yourself using the corners of the block, rather than the sides) so the edge of the sand paper doesn't gouge the paint, especially when wet sanding. you'll get exceptional results this way.

use flux removing solvent if you cant get the film off. it will make your board a little sticky if you don't apply it liberally enough to wet the board real good. if you only spray a mist, it wont dry out properly and it will just leave sticky sparkly areas on the board. I use one in a blue can, with a red label. Can't remember the name but it removed all the rosin flux that the board left behind.

was the 16 year old driver a geezer, perhaps

have you considered just unwinding an entire roll of mig wire and tossing the diff at an electrical transformer somewhere around your city block? that bolt looks like it will hold, but I wouldnt be surprised if that diff got REALLY noisey and clunky after a while. I would have started with more heat then needed, so it would atleast melt the thick metal and penetrate deeper. it looks as though your heat setting was too low, and wire speed too high.

any chances of a full panel 280z style instead of a split panel?

on the greytech website that was posted... it's noted that the water cooling passage can appear on the top or bottom on some KA TB's. so the "wrong side" is most likely in reference to someone trying to hold the TB upside down, when in fact the water cooling passage is supposed to be on the opposite side. am i making sense? if the top and bottom water cooling passage versions have the spring on the same side, it's probably the reason for all the confusion when someone assumes that the water cooling passages on both TB's should be both be either on top, or vise versa. And is it possible to use a TB from a Stanza? I just junked one =(

heeeeeeeeeey... what's that white E30 doing back there again!?

700 hp pushing 2900 lbs makes me poo my pants.

I'd use the word "flight"

be aware that the neo engines have VVL timing that changes the cam phasing on both intake and exhaust, rather than just intake like on the VCT RB25DET heads if i remember correctly. That might be something to look at, but probably not related to your issue. Perhaps it has to do with different wires being present as well as relocated.

good point! I remember you (i think) saying in a previous thread that having the gasket go is something you hope for in an engine catastrophe for that very reason. If it's the weakest link it might be the first and only thing to go, but if it holds in all that pressure... connect the dots

SO you guys mention hot tanking. From what I've read, the caustic solutions most commonly used will make a nice puddle out of the aluminum cylinder heads. Are there any solutions/solvents that can be boiled in a vat at home that would work on aluminum?

ahhh this is funny, the day that I had asked you for the pic, I went to princess auto and got that same one. LOL I like how the hose has a weighted pickup so it sinks to the bottom of the jug

just for the record, if you hold the camera further away, and hold the shutter release button halfway until the motor stops moving, and makes a beep, or a small square inside the viewfinder flashes... it will come out clear and crisp, rather than close and blurry. or if your camera has a macro feature (look for the little flower symbol), then use that for close ups. I know it's easy to tell what the connector looks like, but i've seen this one too many times, and i just had to say something. nothing personal, alex

i'd say its the other way around. repairing a shoe lace with a rock-climbing rope.

we're with you and her, Jon!

is that in regards to their skull or the sounds they make? just so it's known, i didn't highlight chip-chip because of the damage on the car. that's not cool

are there any good books on header design for naturally aspirated performance as well as pipe sizing? I'd like to read them on my way to work.

i coulda' stuck new rings back onto my RB30 pistons and had it go right in and it would have still seated the rings! it still had the factory hones aswell! is this a nissan thing ?!

My driving instructor always said "Racoons.... don't run over racoons, they've got skulls that are as strong as cinder blocks.... squirrels though.... run over those squirrels........... run over them good"

RB25 is the best bet, I think. it will come with the transmission you need, depending on where you get it. and only a few modifications would need to be done. I've seen swaps on here done for about 4 - 6k, complete and running with all stock equipment. you'll want to replace certain things like the oil and water pump as well as the oil pan and sump pickup (those last two are a must) in total, you spend about 2500 on the RB25 with transmission and all the gadgetry, then another 1000 in parts for the engine, plus 500 in misc other things. from there, you can make the RB25 sing pretty nicely with a bit more money (FMIC, Bov, Cams... etc.) be prepared for about 5 - 6 k complete. 4 if you're doing it yourself and on a bare minimum budget. that might cost you more in the end though.

every time I buy something used, I check it and clean it, or have it cleaned. but it's a good thing to make note of, so I'm glad you mentioned it anyway. Heck, I most often clean brand new parts just to make sure nothing has been left over that should have been eliminated after manufacturing and Q/A testing.