Careless

hey, atleast she can't dump you for it.

reminds me too much of a nose

hey guys, What do you think is a good size for the primaries and the stepped tubing that I would need to design a nice set of long tubes for the RB-Dirty (my new name for 3.0 litre ITB-RB30/26...remember it!) I want to start mapping out where I'm giong to line up my exhaust cutout, and I'd want it to be about a foot or two away from the collector. But I'm not sure what size an engine like this should collect to. I'm sure it matters on engine efficiency and exhaust flow as well, but generally, what does a 24valve 3 litre usually bode well with? I was thinking 2.75 at the collector, but I'm having trouble finding that in an electronic cutout. I was also thinking 3, but that sounds too big for N/A.. and 2.5 sounds a touch too small for a 3.0 litre RB. do you think 2.5 will be fine, or should I attempt to go with a 3 for the cutouts that tapers into a 2.5 for the muffler end? And primary sizes? what say youzzzz!? Raff

When I read the entire 260 page thread on the RB30 conversion, most people seemed to use the RB25 head, as it was easiest to come by, and a cheap alternative to the GTR head. The problem they had was with the VTC solenoid being switched at the wrong time, due to the new powerband that the RB30 has set. What one person suggested, and displayed through use of 3 dyno graphs (don't think they're hosted anymore though, links are dead) is that you could do TWO runs to test. one with the VCT always off, and one with the VCT always on by hardwiring it, or by setting it's trigger point RPM in the ecu to 0, and to 9999 rpm (just dont try to activate it when it's set that high, for obvious reasons. LOL) what he then did was find the graphs fall/rise intersection for each run, and pinpointed the point at which VCT would make the most linear power, and the most sense. It apparently worked out exceptionally well, and was a relief to using a larger than factory turbo with the VCT and having it flow smoothly across the wide powerband that the RB30 provides with the DOHC head. Of course, you could set it to the factory setting, but I think given the fact that you have the ability to adjust it, It wouldn't be a bad idea to giv'r the juice and find out what's best for yaz, in terms of proper air density, elevation, outside temp, all which affect the power output, and thus the effectiveness of such a device. Try and change it up through some tests of your own if you could, and you'll be able to tailor it to your engine, regardless of whether it's stock or not. and, Congrats on the successful swap

awesome, 50/50 weight distribution with an RB25 turbo. that should be the equivalent of an RB30DE, sans-turbo, no? tell us about what other weight additions would find themselves in your car. any that are easily removable? btw, I think the side mouldings on your car make it so much more sexy in the silver colour with those wheels you have =)

I'm going to take a shot in the dark and say your turbo is loosing oil somehow, perhaps the center section got too hot and warped the impeller shaft. Now i'm thinking at high RPM it vibrates enough so that you can hear it.

Hey guys, I was wondering how many of you have Z's or own them based on past life events, or anything that you would consider family related or a sort of connection between man and car that was brought up in a weird sort of way. Even if you have stories regarding weird things that you've found about your car that relates to yourself (i.e. - birthyear, address, school, etc..) I'll start with one of mine. I went to an elementary school in my neighbourhood that was what I would call medium sized. My sponsor for my catholic confirmation ceremony was my long time relative and family member Joe. Well, long-time for me anyways. His father Virge has been my fathers friend since they lived back in Italy at a young age, even back since elementary school. They also went to school with either of their wives, who were also long time friends, and also came here at a young age to wed. They all came to the great white north when they were roughly 16-20. They ended up buying houses within 5 lots of each other. My address 114, his 104. Joe's little brother Dennis would grow up to be one of my best friends, along with Joe himself, and my brother Frank. We all went to the same elementary school and highschool. But this is not where the Z story begins. It begins with a friend of Joe's... He came to the same elementary school, and was in Joe's grade. He went to the same highschool, and was again, in Joe's grade. He went on to the graphic design field. as did i. He is now a print designer/producer, and I can say the same. He owned a Z32. I own a s30 Z. And the reason why chose this story, is because HE HAS THE EXACT SAME NAME (right down to the accent) AS I DO. And just for the record, I've been dealt a Royal Flush... twice. So what are the odds, here?

i used artic silver thermal paste to get the most out of the cooling fin at the top of the case/board. I also noticed that on the case i have, the cooling channel does not butt against the cooling bar on the board, thus not allowing proper heat dissipation. possibly one thing to help you along your way.

he was probably looking for alarm wires, or nifty shiney parts. if he can see the alarm wires, he can cut the ones going to the siren, and get atch'a car later

What I would do is remove the fuel pump, and take off the top 4 screws, replace them with allen head bolts that have the same thread pattern, and can screw on tighter. replace the O-rings in there with suitable o rings. linish (lightly sand with fine paper) the drive gears in the pump to remove any crud off them, and clean the filter that is on the inside of the pump spout. THAT is where most of the ♥♥♥♥ stays. then before you put it back on the car, crank the engine over so it spits out all the fuel and there is no pressure in the lines. Remove the fuel rail and clean the pre-filter screens infront of the injectors, located where the hose plumbs into the top-feed of the injector. that should allow it to flow a bit more freely

When I took the thermostat and waterpump out of my RB30, I had a mini-stroke. so much damned rust and calcium deposits, that I actually had to pry my thermostat out. Hopefully when I get it back it's clean as a bean!

fix it in august, tune it in september, and beat the ♥♥♥♥ out of it next year with that decade of bottled up rage over this thing make an RB brotha proud!

If it's the Tomei Reytec ECU, then I believe it is programmable, and not a reflash. I saw a Reytec on E-bay going for 800, which is cheap for just about any Tomei product that exceeds the size of your fist. They have very good products.

so is it a 1u4z now? great stuff, get some ITB's on thurrrr!

tell him to get in here and tell us what to do to get these things!

mine has bout 3/4 inch and doesn't spring back fully.

Mine has similar problems at times what i do before checking for possible problems is i pull the pedal back with my foot. all the way up to the highest position. when your idle is crap on a startup, i would adjust the distributor position for timing while warming up, make sure it's at about 1000 rpm. then when it's warm, and you'll know, because at this point, your RPM will be somewhere like 1800... you would adjust the idle speed screw until it's at 800 RPM instead of 1800. The reason (i think) for this is that it seems like your idle pattern is reversed, in that when it's cold it's dying, because there's too much AIR going through the idle adjustment system because it's opened too far wide. and when it's warm, it's at the state where it can idle properly, but again, it has more air now, so it's compensating and making it idle high now. the cold start procedure that the computers run through are supposed to dump excess fuel, through an intake tract injector, or a secondary port no? play with both until it sounds homogenous in its firing pattern while it's warm... then let it cool down, and start it up and make sure it's idling HIGHER when cold then when it's warm, not the other way around... i actually give it a bit more advance at the dizzy just because i feel it will stumble less if it has a hair more advance, therefore on a really cold day, the lumpy idle wont rear its head again. im not sure how your engine is, but on my N42/N42 engine/head this is how it runs best without using a timing light or anything special. now that my injector #4 is either clogged or bunked, I don't do any of this.

that does actually look pretty nice

my friend just got a 2001 XJ and it's causing him problems with the computer malfunctioning, the transmission is crapping out, and all sorts of poo. another friend just got an older jeep with the same engine, and it was recently buttoned up with a rebuild of somesort, and it's running quite strong. but, my friend with the problematic one asked me what it would take to swap a GTR Engine in there. LOL

i'd have to agree. while there are many other cars on this board that make someone wanna buy the first z car in sight, I feel that 280zforce is the one that did it for me AND, i'd like to point out that Signal's R34 Skyline with 1060 hp has a 100mm throttle body. that's probably still not a restriction. plenum volume is something I would be more concerned about.

i realize that. but I've seen work meisters at 17x13 (if i recall) go for about 900 a wheel

looks more like aftermarket body parts.

i've found HID kits for far cheaper than that, and essentially the same quality.

oh?.... Well i think you're on the right track. I mean all the VW cars use the VAG System to control their Computers. So you could, in a sense, be correct. On that topic, however, VW's are a prone to electrical problems, or are very hard to mess with when troubleshooting. That's why VW owners readily assume, or pretend, that their VW has suffered from a VAG Virus. pouting and crying is STD Procedure. I've also heard to too much about leakage in the hatch that seems to cause burns and flares and sometimes leaves a dirty mess of the associated interior parts.

looks to be taken on film if i'm not mistaken. i like that look, suits the z and makes it look even better than it already does!