Careless

duuuuuuuude. you can get some flat aluminum stock for like 16 bucks that is 3/16th thick or something, can't remember the gauge, and it comes in various widths and lengths, all for about 10 bucks or less. home depot! I had to bend it in a vice. it will take the VR sensor just fine.

not sure if i posted these: They were gettin frisky. highlights on the reflections blew out on this one... didn't photoshop it, too lazy. Buddy Jerry's 944 with 968 engine

I wouldn't classify a relay as an amplifier. it needs the higher amp signal to redirect the higher amp signal once the low amp tells it to. therefore you are "relaying" and not "amplifying", so to speak. but I know what you mean.

sounds like something went in the ECU. i think at that point where it happened it blew up and the ecu just dumped fuel as whatever DID pop went when the car was higher in the fuel map. that fuel map may have been accessible only by triggering whatever it is that burnt in the ECU. Once it popped... the added fuel from the map may have been dumped and the ECU didn't know how to proceed. The ALU in the ECU probably could not compute the error and just fell flat at that intersection on the Map... ECU's normally have a sensor limp-mode, but not a limp-mode for "where the hell did that diode on the motherboard go" type thing... at least not many of them... The easiest thing would be to check the ECU internals to see if any Diodes have been burnt.

far as i remember it was an RB25 the whole way, when he posted progress pics...

Good info, 280zforce... I'll add that a 510 would be a screamer with just an RB25DE and some cams and mild port work + header too ...so perhaps you can get away with steering linkages being in a good spot by dropping the turbo idea, working the engine back some, making a shifter linkage adapter, which may need the shifter location hole to be cut around further forward and backwards, raised a couple of inches to allow a linkage, and then closed up to seal out the exhaust or whatever else may make it's way in there... all that is done so that you don't end up having to move the seats further back either. a 510 is a car I could see an RB20 in, even though it's not much shorter than its 2.5 or 2.6 brothers, the extra room, cost savings, and other such things you will avoid doing to the car to make things work will contribute to the money left over for engine mods to get you passed the standard RB26 horsepower level. and really, anything like 300whp in a 510 is enough to have NASA call you and ask why you're gliding through U.S. Air-space on your way to the moon.

sounds great josh. nice work =)

Item Number: 38377 Various Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth Cars, Trucks & Minivans 1996-87. Size: .376"ID x .495"OD x .250".L Door Hinge Bushing

i recall people fitting the L2(X) engines in place of the L1(X) engines, so it could work. I will say that a VG30DE into a 510 is tight as tight can be, and the bore sizes of the cylinders are relatively the same as the RB engines... so factor in that the RB is same bore, but longer instead of wider....

torque and rpm always cross at 5250, so that's 580-ish hp and tq at that rpm... right? heck if I know... just an observation.

LOL @ TradeFAIL

i think the coolest part of both of the moon photos posted is the part where i tilt my head and see the exact same land-marks from one image to the other. LOL

you can get an old mercedes and shove a 1JZ into it or something.

i bet if she made thinks pop in the back hatch area as well as your cigarette lighter did your story would have turned out a tad different. LOL good job. unappreciative women! PFFFT!

well start with an RB30, then. 1.84:1 rod/stroke ratio.. much closer to the 2+ that motorcycle engines have!

me likey too. boobala. what's the equipment you're using?

looks spectacular! hope that's not the end of the engine bling because I would love to see some more shiney things under there!

I have this cigarette lighter adapter that slips into the 12v lighter socket and it has a hole that you slip your cigarette or mini-cigar into and press slightly and it will burn the end of the cigarette and leave a nice even cherry. You don't even have to pay attention to it, works well on most adapter sockets.

me too, crossing fingers for forgies in thurr!

have you tried to lay out the wiring on the engine bay as it would be when installed? that will give a better indication of where the plugs MAY be located.

+1

CA18 would be a motor to look at too... but If you would like to get a better idea of the bore/stroke ratio, and not the rod ratio that is induced by the crank, take a look at the 4AGE engines built by HASSELGREN. They build some 11,000k 1.6 litre motors, but advise that a complete teardown be done every oil change... Something to think about at those RPMs... There are Hayabusa engines making upwards of 500hp that rev to the moon... Have you considered looking into other motors than standard fare SR20 as a starting point? Either way, I respect your decision because I'm doing something sort of the same with my build just cause I think it's cooler.

dont know if i posted this yet, Bob Atrells Varac GTB car at the autoshow closely parked near the GTR and 370Z click image for larger pic

we share a portion of our brain, here.

interesting modification