Careless

cool stuff gary.

your intake looks about 10:30, and the exhaust about 12:15. did you align the lower sprocket properly? it may be a tooth too advanced, and causing the cams to develop a bit of slack. in a normal situation, as long as the timing marks are lined up on the chain and whatever markings on the head, it will be ok... but someone with definitive SR20 experience will be here shortly...

Indeed. I'll be changing the CHTS and re-indexing the distributor. it seems as though my distributor is way out counter clockwise, and i can only get it a hair passed 15 BTDC, but I swear I set it properly at one point. I think the computer sees the CHTS as not installed (faulty aftermarket POS!) so it's knocking timing back and dumping fuel as a cold-start enrichment program. It's an 87 300zx Turbo, by the way.

I think the next step for prime lenses is to pack more than one set of glass elements into one lense that can be stepped rather than varied like a zoom. picture this... a lense with stepped settings at which the glass performance is equal in sharpness and all other factors (bokeh, moire, fringing, vignetting) at one focal length as it is at another, but they are all "set" lengths and not variable by the user in a sense that one could go in between those lengths. Sort of like what optometrists use to test your eye-sight. a multi-prime lense, perhaps?

NICE! Just saw an orange judge today at Canadian Tire was kinda ratty though, but in overall good condition.

My theory behind removing the 02 sensor was to allow a bypass for stuck gasses. However Dan, you are right on the money. pulled the plugs today and they were really black and sooty. a little wet, but not too much. I replaced the ECU at one point and my Fuel Pump circuit and Ignition Primary Circuit codes dissappeared, but the Coolant Head Temperature sensor remained... This struck me as odd, as I replaced the CHTS with an aftermarket version. Tomorrow I will be ordering the CHTS and going to nissan on Tuesday to pick it up, and Hopefully the only remaining code will be the Fuel Temperature sensor which is new to me... but also irrelevant as I've been told. I figure since some are ditching the stock FPR and going with aftermarket ones that do not have the fuel temperature bung, it makes sense. I might change my oil too, I think it's been fouled and mixed with excess fuel and it's now thinned out. Another 60-80 bucks + sensor cost down the drain, but I think this is the last of it! Should be running real nice when I get it going this time. I have some new platinum Gpower NGK's as the store was surprisingly out of all other plug types. I think I can have her running well enough to get around again until I have to pull the intake next week to redo the rail, because I had an instance that almost caused an engine fire. Good thing I hand-made those Taylor 409 plug wires in time, or I would have been running on really ratty Honda Accord plug wires that would have sparked, no doubt, and caused an insane engine fire when #4 injector lower-hose decided to unseat itself from the umbrella hat clamp. I'll be removing the umbrella hat clamps in favour of proper fuel injection clamps this time around. It should be a lot better this way.

now she doesnt wanna rev much on idle and she does the same sputtering... and the car dies after sitting at 1000 rpm and then slowly dropping to 4 and choking itself. I think I'm going to punch the cat today. or remove the o2 sensor.

copper rtv

he did not do that to an XJ-220, did he? crap. he did.

looks like they didnt media blast those parts or put them in a hopper... i would be replace any bolts that look questionable with newer hardware and ave the newer batch re-done, but keep using the ones that came out good.

nice manifolds and chrome!

UPDATE: just went for a midnight cruise before moving the car to park it. the hesitation is more apparent than ever before. cruising as normal in 1st gear and 2nd gear, i get a jerking motion from the car... a lot of misfires happening in the tail-pipe, and a raunchy smell. at this point I'm not sure how to test for the catalytic converter. the AICV is opening on idle and the pipe IS hooked up to the exhaust feed tube, just to rule that out for anything. at this point it's quite undrivable. but after it has a couple of misfires, the car jolts with a power surge. jolt-jolt-jolt-move-jolt-jolt-move-jolt-move-jolt-mooooove-jolt-mooooooooooooooooove is the best way to describe it. checked the manifolds by lifting the hood and couldn't see any glowing. car started to get hot so I shut it off after a 3 minute wait to purge the turbo of hotter oil.

right on. it looked epoxied to that sprocket, which i based my question on. indeed it would be too much work to make it align properly and stay there.

can you use 3 of those plates and stagger them, and then cut the tooth off one? 12-1 24-1 36-1 if you want.

nice find. never seen a 1/2 coupler with barbs so small like that. they're usually a lot more agressive barbs than that. what's the original application for that hose coupler?

Sooo. Did a bit of searching here and on z31performance... couldn't really find enough info on anything similar. I got my car on the road. I'm burning something still. Doesn't smell like gasoline much, doesnt smell like coolant much, smells a touch like oil... I'd put it somewhere in between rich condition and oil maybe. I did put a cup of seafoam in the crank case, and then I removed the oil after 1 hour of running (to break in the rebuilt turbo and whatnot) and then put in a new filter and new oil... so lately, it's been getting a bit thicker. I start the car in the morning and there's a puff. just one. for a couple of seconds. again, ran to it... doesn't smell like oil. If I drove well into the top of each gear (4000 ish, lets say) the stuff doesnt BILLOW out, but it does come up. It's not thick enough to billow, it just fills the air. After i start it and give it a good 3 or so minutes to warm up a touch, I coast down the street. But it jerks and jolts forward and back. I tried easing into the throttle... still does it. I remember the FIRST time i took it out around the block just 4 days ago it did the same thing and I had to really mash that throttle for it to make a loud POP sound and then it *beep* fleeeeewwwwwwwwww. I mean, if I put my foot down, once the hesitation breaks up, the car MOOOOVES, and I mean MOOVES... On the way home, I may have smoked the entire neighborhood. I'm wondering if this is a symptom of clogged catalytic converters. I want to pay for my aluminum radiator this weekend so I'll live with the exhaust burning for a while... but today a cop looked at me a little weird as he drove by... kinda worried that it might be excessive. but around here I'm pretty sure only a Ministry Office can pull you over. But when that happens I have an open-to-air filter, stock pcv system removed, and egr deletion. that's like 600 in fines.

agreed

lol i am not surprised that you've been hesitant to mash the throttle. just don't be alarmed if you hear news about Russia testing another launch of Sputnik on CNN the morning after you decide to put your foot all the way down. that thing is going to fly if you manage to hook.

do not base your decision on whether your mounts will work unless you have absolutely no way of modifying or making new mounts. i cannot say tigerjapanese is any better than any other engine supplier. i know some people that have used them, but if you feel the need to have the 60 day warranty and can get the engine in and started by that time... pay the extra 250 for insurance. it can go a long way.

see if you can get an RB25DET without the trans and run the current trans you have. it will be around the same price. http://www.tigerjapanese.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=92&category_id=8&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26&vmcchk=1&Itemid=26

Thanks for the links, grumpy. I'll get him to make a post that he can just cut and paste into various forums. sorry to intrude.

yes and no. you sound like this is your first time dealing with wiring, and i think the fact that you're asking these questions is great, because a lot of the time they are assumed and neglected and further down the line people who search for this because they think these questions are dumb is gonna stumble on this thread and it's going to have alot of good info... always ask questions. good stuff. to answer your question, the thicker the conductor the more voltage drops off as the wire gets longer. Never go by wire thickness as it feels with the insulation... you must look at the CONDUCTING WIRES inside the insulation. Look for a "wire amperage gauge chart" on google. it will show you what wire conductor thickness you need for certain amperages... use a wire that is rated for 5 (upto 10) amps more than required. This will make sure the fuse goes before the wire does. using anything overly thick will delay reactions from sensors that operate using a voltage like a steady 5 volts if your alternator is struggling to keep other things running at full speed. also, it adds weight. in reality, general automotive wire and a fuseblock up near where you can access it is best. you don't need to position fuses all across the car in different locations... BUT if it will make it easier, sometimes it's not a bad thing, as long as you cover them properly... remember where they are, and make sure they won't burn up. and when choosing wire, take note of where it passes through. if it's going from a rubber tube into the door jamb so that when the door closes and opens, you still have a connection, then make sure there are MORE WIRES in the insulation, that are THINNER so it's more flexible, as opposited to LESS WIRES that are THICKER to make it more rigid (like battery main wires).

started my z31 up this weekend. has a timing issue and mis-fires a bit... but man does it ever sound so good. ported the heads myself, and had the turbo rebuilt (twice, apparently), and installed an e-fan and a custom relay system for high/low speed... and PCV system to avoid the gumming of the intake that the last PCV valve did. lightweight flywheel, F1 Racing Stage 2 Clutch (gonna see how that goes, gotta break it in a little easy), and the first 350z alternator 110amp upgrade (hey, I'm proud of my discovery ). I need a new AAC/FICD to cope with the idle drop when the fan comes on... Going to get it on the ground tonight for the first time in one whole damn year. I really need to drive it around to get the engine loaded to see what the miss is all about. Gonna take it easy and just kinda baby it... don't want any bad things happening first day out. I closed the hood for the first time in a whole year... feels pretty damn good, I must say... will post pics + results later today... maybe some in-car video.

heh... if you haven't already seen it, type "White Zombie" into a youtube search... the world's best ego-vacuum, powered by Li-Ion! LOLOLOL

if anyone building SBC's need some parts, I have a friend who's making room in the garage. he's got a lot of neat stuff, let me know! some parts of which grumpy may be recommending to take into consideration for your builds. just trying to help a fellow Z'er (Z28, still a Z!). He's settled on another build and needs to clear-out for more room. not trying to thread jack, but it might be worth while to inquire. I mention this because rsicard mentioned guide plates, and he's got a set of all that stuff, so hey... why not!?