Careless

you can ship anything that will fit in a shipping container. even a car.

shorter stroke/wider bore = higher revs, doesn't it? I think nissan just managed to extract a bit more revs out of the engine with the strengthened parts and decided that the longer stroke will go a long way in keeping torque and hp numbers in spec with what's current and the fact that everything is stronger allows them to rev higher. I don't think it's the length of the rods that allows them to rev higher, it would be quite the opposite from what I've learned over the years of reading technical text

my engine is 22 years old, and the vg30e spit out a 150psi cold-reading compression test across all cylinders after doing the head gaskets this winter. that means my bores are in relatively good shape and the rings aren't leaky. not bad for a 22 year old piece o' iron!

lol. i welded a 1 inch pass with no glove on my mig and I got some serious sun burn for a week, and this guy's practically guiding the electrode with his index fingers, which look like they're bleeding at the nails. all that for what seems like something to mount a tarp too. LOL

and one of them is a VG30ET. NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

but, but...

There was a guy who had a couple of tests done on some cylinder heads and engines using various professional equipment with real running cars that said the temperature and idle rpm dropped considerably, but the horsepower figures were not as high. we're talking about +/- 5 to 10% for both idle speed/rpm and horsepower, both opposite of eachother. THERE IS A PDF floating around somewhere. I don't see the use for them. The hard edges would mostly cause hot spots in the combustion chambers and start to detonate if you were using it for autocrossing or road courses.

i'm'a put my pan on eBay starting at 300 USD. LOLz.

ARE YOU SURE it's rated for brake fluid?

I don't understand, you're asking if someone knows about pro-chargers, and then asking that same person what pro-charger to use. In all honesty, there are a LOT of things you gotta worry about here before just jumping right into it. how much MONEY do you want to spend, realistically.

LOL that 1/8th mile straight-shot wheel stand was awesome. might as well put front ski's on the thing! nice job

Plugs were black, i think from a rich condition. They were not oily nor did they smell like oil much, if at all. I replaced them with cheapo champion copper plugs that seem to idle better than the NGK-R V-powers. That would indicate that it's dumping into the cat. But that would also mean that I would have to idle the car for a while for the cat to heat up to the point where it would burn any oil that comes out of the turbine housing. As far as I can tell, it smokes right from start up. fakkk. I really don't want to have to remove this damn turbo again

Derek, don't expect fantasy-dyno numbers with the engine you have it on. It's just an upgrade for a worn old motor as you said it would be. I think what you've done here, from start to finish, takes a lot more work than doing part numbers searches and reading engine assembly books and building an engine to even have the potential to utilize what you've got. they will show their benefit when you get back into the game and build a motor they're meant to be on. be glad that the unit itself works as expected, while the engine alone may not be the greatest. I know I would be very proud of myself for doing such a thing, regardless of whether or not my engine ran on 3 cylinders or 6. L14 or 28 quasi-inline 3 or 6 cylinder engine and THOSE trumpets making a whopping 60hp would make me feel on top of the world with that thing bolted up to it, if I made it with my own hands and skill and trades-knowledge.

when u let the valve fall onto the seat, you should hear a "plock" sound rather than a "plink" sound, for lack of technical sound-pitch terms. some say to lap only in 1 inch palm/palm movements, but i went from edge to edge of my palms with the suction tool, and I often lifted and dropped the valve to re-distribute the lapping compound. what i did: 1st stage = lapping compound 2nd stage = lapping compound thinned down 50/50 with a good machine/cutting oil 3rd (and grossly unnecessary stage) = polishing compound and a lot of time and effort to make them shine. some have said that carefully locking the valve stem tip (where the retainer and locks go) in a cordless drill with an easy-to-modulate trigger button and pulling on the drill while using it to rotate the valve head at high speed onto the seat will produce excellent results. fentin_fury reinstated that method after i saw it on the internet but thought of it as too much of a risk. i think his motor builder did it that way and his engine was running great, last I read. I'd imagine you will need a lot more lapping compound to do that though, as the high speed will most definitely throw the compound everywhere.

it could be re-routed to work though. put the filter on the valve cover port going to the turbo intake pipe, cap off the ports that join the two valve covers, as one will be intake-air, and one will be pressurized-outlet port. keep the one going to the catch can, and send a line from the catch can back to the intake pipe. the Bernoulli effect created by the turbo's compressor wheel suction will pull vacuum and suck the oil from the valve cover into the catch can (take that filter off the catch can), and will separate the air from the oil inside the catch can if there's a substrate for it to fall onto and suspend it. Am I right or is this incorrect? that's how i've seen it set up.

Man. WHY... WHY did someone post that fusion intercooler thing. I was just thinking of running a air/water intercooler, and now I have seen a way that will potentially negate the use of a separate heat exchanger. DAMNIT. money money money.

Racinjitter just made a post about some lines that are unsuitable for use with various fluids, regarding stainless lines (on z31performance.com). "The only earls hose that is rated for fuel use is the speed-flex line of hoses. It has a inner liner that is coated with teflon that gas cannot permeate. This line is aslo good for use in brake systems." of course it's an Earls product that is mentioned here, but it's possibly something to consider looking into. The rubber gets unstable after being subjected to certain chemicals and it could very well be a rubber-line residue that is slowly melting away. But it would probably take years to experience the consequences of running such lines on such applications where they were not intended to be run. Sorta makes you wonder why they don't make this more of a general warning, like Cigarette Pack warnings.

seriously, I don't know where to look. I have done the following to my engine: 1) Port and Polish exhaust, Port + Smooth intake and bowls/seats. 2) Full home head job (valve seals, clean head, lap valve seats). 3) Compression test is 150psi across every cylinder with the Fel-Pro headgasket (har har). 4) New plugs, New Cap, New Rotor, New Taylor 409 Spiro Core custom wires 10.4mm wires. 5) Removed EGR. 6) Removed PCV system, and set up for oil catch can (no oil spitting out anywhere so far). 7) AICV installed. AIV installed. 8 ) Distributor Indexed properly. 9) Fidanza flywheel + new clutch. 10) E-Fan upgrade. 11) 350z Alternator upgrade using stock belt (works nice!) 12) Rebuilt Turbo with upgraded washer and seal kit. 13) Every accessible seal replaced. 14) Amsoil 10w30 + Magnafilter attachment + Napa Gold filter. 15) Used injector swap, same kind - 87T. 16) Another ECU swap, just to work out an ignition bug. 17) Vacuum reading is 20 inHg. 18) Stanza Throttle Body. 19) Coolant temp sensor + harness. 20) misc other things that I cannot remember, but I'm going to remove the charcoal can tomorrow too, in order to mount my catch can properly. I've got something, most likely a bit of oil, burning. It burns more when I open the throttle. It smells a little oily, but it's not a deep blue, and there's some condensation building up in my exhaust from sitting for 8 months through the dead of winter and hot-cold cycles. I can't, for the life of me, figure out where this oil is coming from or how it's making it's way to the cylinders. I am running a tad rich, as per the light on the ECU, but that'll be tuned out with the adjustment screw on the MAF, hopefully. It's not TERRIBLE oil consumption. but it's there, and it will probably lead to me getting pulled over if a cop tails my ass. Is there anything after doing the listed mods up-top, that I should be checking to make sure no oil is spewing into the intake? I hosed everything down before re-installing it with some cleansers and solvents to make sure it was clean for sure. I will pull the intake pipe off tomorrow, but I'm just curious to know if anyone has any ideas or anything to check. A friend says it could be a vacuum related issue now that my EGR is gone and perhaps I mixed a vacuum line or something... but to be honest, I'm stumped. I used an EGR diagram and it seems alright. I should double check it, but I'm sure it's right. Anyone? Anything?

congrats

I'm down. Can you email me a scan of the form, and I shall send it to my dealership via email so he can pull out a real one and send it in with all the correct info. Also, my z31 is going to be on the road soon so I'll have to take it on up to your place or something and we can bench race Also, installing NISTUNE, since you're mister BlaZt, maybe you got some pointers

just throw the car off a curb instead, and I'll catch it and drive it home. then we can throw my z31 off jack-stands, and you can deal with mechanical stuff instead of electrical stuff. I think that's fair trade.

joint venture? I gots cash for like... 10 ! and I can get them at cost from my dealership, so I can see if they will do a request form too

Nissan had their valve seats polished on the vg30 heads from factory, but they get pitted over time. I hand lapped them and was comfortable running them with the brushed/sanded look they leave... but I took it a step further and lapped again with polishing compound until I had a near mirror finish. just did a compression test yesterday, and on a 21 year old engine with no bottom end work (just did headgaskets and valve seals) she made 150psi across every cylinder, exactly. no more, no less, no leaking over 1 minute (not accurate for a leakdown test, i know). not bad for a motor with 223,000 km on it that's been sitting for 7 months. that was a cold test too. just something to think about.

your bracket can definately be made with a 6x6 sheet of metal, bolted to a bench, and a drill press and some cutting oil. look here: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=403862&postid=4473206 I would just make a squared off S shape (2 Zigs, 1 Zag), and mount it in a vice and hammer it with a brass mallet until it turns a 90 on both ends. Heat it up if you gotta, and it looks like it will work out just fine with the rest of what's in the thread. 3/8ths steel is probably overkill. 5/16ths or maybe even 3/16'ths will be good.

did you install that head? don't install that head yet. go to a small tool store that has automotive parts and buy a spring compressor type tool (twist clamp, or push-force style should work), and get some lapping paste and a hand valve grinding tool. To redo the valve seats is costly, but at least freshen them up by lapping the valve seats. I did it in an afternoon on two heads and I just did a compression test on my z31 this afternoon. The valve seats were polished from factory, but obviously a little pitted from 21 years of abuse. today they read 150psi across the board, 165 is max, 121 is minimum in the FSM specs. It literally costs 50 bucks, and it's a worth while investment, with a beer or a coffee/tea or something to sip on between valves. message me if you need advice. and you could also clean those combustion chambers up a bit too while you're at it. carbon flakes off while it gets heated and it will fly around for a bit or gunk up other nasty surfaces, like your turbine wheel an what not. also, the intake ports are nicely roughed (i know it always looks a lot worse when the picture is taken with a sharp lense), but I would make the pattern more even. It takes some nutts to do this to a project car by yourself. In my case it will be my daily, so I can appreciate the effort you put into even taking a grinder to the first port, believe me. LOL. plus, when u get those valves out to lap the seats, you can blend the bowl where the seat is machined in, thats the area where you'll make some good juice! of course, I may be telling you this for the future, since it may be on already. been 4 weeks anyhow.