Careless

FALSE ALARM the bolts were fine. I ran a rethreader through the entire bolt hole and found that since they were fine thread, the thread locker was very very thick and encrusted inside the bolt hole. I ended up heating it up with a heat gun and go back and forth with an old flywheel bolt that I had cut at an angle with slits into a sort of cleaner, as the rethreader wasn't doing much. you can order some stock bolts for the exact car your engine came from and use those. I felt kinda stupid.

which one of these works for the Z31 again!? LOL. I'm feeling spendy.

Allow me to profess. He is not crazy. He is looking for what is called a Pulse Width Modulation circuit. It uses a 555 Timer IC to control a pulse of 12 volts at a variably-adjustable (via potentiometer, a.k.a. dimmer dial) rate, and the bursts of 12volts will either have enough to keep it lit 100% percent of the time, 0% of the time, or anywhere in between, using the cool-down and start-up time of the LED to control the frequency of the light you see. Some people with very sensitive eyes may notice flickering, and some people with prolonged exposure to the bulbs this way will not notice it but suffer from the fatigue, but it's rare.

I have the exact same head lamp, and It's my Go-To tool when I first get into the garage, but I have long hair so it keeps slipping off my noggin.

I will chime in here to add to superduner's advice about clear. VHT makes a 1500*F Degree Clear that is easy to apply. DO NOT SPRAY it in a cold environment or an item that is somewhat less than room temperature. What I would do is find someone with an old oven in their garage, heat up the valve cover a little bit so that it's warm, and then spray the VHT on the valve cover while it's in a baking tray or something. YOU CAN also use a propane torch with a heat deflector or even a ceramic room heater to put the valve cover beside and let it sit and get warm, then spray (with the part far away from the heat source) and then bring the part back and let it sit near the heat source again. Be warned that if your heat source has a fan, you may want to enclose the sides of the valve cover in a breathable,lint-free box, or you will get lint in your clear... and on its 4th coat, it's quite hard to remove. I've gotten great results without even heating the parts, but I'm sure the results would be even greater with a warm part to bond to. I now spray all my stuff that will be close to heated sources with it. Valve covers, Timing Covers, Manifolds I do too- but only if the manifold has been sprayed with a paint that is of the same make (sprayed it over top of other stuff and it flaked fast- i.e. a couple of starts and idle-tunes). Just don't let it run, or you will get a nice yellow drip. If it dries thin, it will not yellow.

+1 to that. to do the roof, since u don't want to press down on it... go to Home Desperate, and buy Circa 1850 Wood Varnish and Paint remover. it's a gel, you coat it on, put a garbage bag over it for the night (no longer, do it on a friday or saturday so you can peel it off in the morning). If you don't get it done that fast, it will just turn into flakes, which will also be easier to wire wheel. After you do a panel and you get it to bare metal, just rub some "Concrete Etcher" on it, and it will not rust. Just make sure you wash the concrete etcher off after about 30 minutes. Don't put too much on, just a lightly damp rag should do. I've had doors that I sanded down to 100% bare metal, and they haven't even rusted in 2 years sitting in my garage with no paint on them all, and I can honestly say there have been days when I walked into the garage to find my car and everything in there covered in a hazy mist of moisture, and the doors as well... and still, not even a spec of rust that wouldn't come off by rubbing it with a towel and some brake clean. (I know brake clean doesn't clean off rust, but it's an indication of how light the rust is, you can barely even see it... it's easier to take off than dirt).

So.... rather than catch a slow-pan glimpse of the Z with a number like 200,000 miles of thumbs-up, they opted to go for the less challenging and probably "larger number size" 06 minutes to soccer practice? for shame.

Oh there's no doubt about that. Honda's barely develop any torque, even when putting the beefier heads on a bigger block to make up for displacement. It is something to think about though. If they make RB25 flywheels that are 10 lbs, and Honda flywheels that are 10lbs, and the difference in torque is almost two-fold, maybe any lighter for most passenger cars running a 1.5 or larger engine should not be using flywheels lighter than 10 or so lbs because the integrity of the flywheel is severely compromised. Yet another reason why I would run with a slightly heavier unit if it was indeed SFI-spec, and the other choice was not, but lighter. To lighten an RB25 flywheel, I believe some guys use KA24 flywheels. but then they need to use KA24 clutch packs (someone correct me on this if it's wrong), which to hold an RB25's increased torque ouput if you decided to up the boost or add some go-fast parts, would negate this being an 'upgrade', as the higher torque KA clutch kits are a heck of a lot of money.

I have a fidanza 12lbs and I'll have to test it for chatter, but I've heard of honda guys running 9lbs flywheels with no issues like that. I didn't get my unit balanced because it was crunch time, but in hindsight I should have. Oh well. my comment was more towards SFI spec verses non SFI spec. If the weight was only a couple of pounds, I would go with the SFI unit as It's safer, and with less weight, in the case of a flywheel that usually means less material... so that's a double-negative... double-negative in cars does not equal positive. LOL. Raff

SPEC makes awesome clutches. And they have a flywheel for these cars too, ask a distributor if you can get a package deal. Stage 2 with a lightweight pressure plate housing will be great. What kind of power are you looking at, again? SPEC 3's are usually more than anyone needs.

I could "how" this would work, but I'm pretty darn sure there's more info out there as to "why" it would not work. the main thing being that so many close/sharp edges in an area like that may get so hot as to create a hot-spot within the chamber that could pre-ignite low octane gas. This is the same reason why many higher-compression engine builders would buy new forged pistons back in the day and round out the domes edges with a cartridge roll and sacrifice the small loss in compression ratio to maintain a proper burn characteristic rather than unwanted pre-ignition. Have I been reading all the wrong info for the passed 5 or 6 years about this subject? Maybe I shouldn't be building a high compression 3.0 litre I6

Are there any numbers or marks I should look for on Greddy or HKS cams that I can use to find out what the cams I have for my RB26 are? I want to check em out, and just wrap them up again and possible put them on eBay.

should be same as z31, looks it. and my RB25 one sat on there nice when I tried. but I did not bolt it.

yes. unless you like your feet, quality is top priority with a flywheel. I would go with a 15lbs SFI flywheel instead of a 12lbs non-SFI flywheel.

Scott. Thanks for the advice. That was my intention, until I noticed a small drippity drop of oil from where I had just cleaned the floor to do just that, take it out for a spin after lowering it off the stands (which it has been on since around this time last year for what seemed like a simple clutch job....ughhh). now I find that my turbo is dripping from the center section on the exhaust side. my turbo rebuilder had given me the turbo and told me it was aligned and everything, and went on vacation. At the time i was pressured by my landlord to get the car moving because he was selling the house (no longer doing so), so I had to call him and tell him that it was aligned about 1 inch off (which is huge!). I instead spoke to his brother, who runs the business with him, and he told me to just loosen the bolts one by one, rotate the turbo, and retighten one by one until it's where it's supposed to be. I did that, and it's leaking. so I don't know if it would have leaked anyways because the car was never started and oil pressure never built up, or if it's my fault. But having it misaligned is a problem in itself. But now my cat and my o2 sensor are probably full of oil, and i took everything apart tonight. (record 2.5 hours) But I can't get the turbo out. I may just drop my steering rack completely and put my new one in. Might as well.

thats way to close to the back. in my opinion, I'd give a good 1.5 inch of room behind the plenums, I just finished taking my crossover pipe today on my z31 and with about 4 inches of room, it's still a bitch to do.

are you trying to fit a 250mm pressure plate into the transmissions that were made for 240mm ? I don't think you can slide a N/A (FS5W71C) transmission over an 87 turbo pressure plate, as it was for the FS5R30A Transmission.

I hate to see wish injury on anyone, but maybe they shouldn't be touching cars and by them hurting themselves through experimentation, it just helps keeps the doofusii off the street, where I may or may not be when they would normally come around.

lola engine management, here we go

remove your plugs before you try to crank it over. if you got a good seat on your valves you will have a tough time trying to move the cylinders with the pressure they build on the compression stroke. also, pour about a teaspoon of oil into each plug hole and let it sit for a day before u do it, just in case.

is think your oil pressure is being hightened by the crankcase pressure that your cylinders may be blowing by. have you checked to make sure all vac lines and all PCV hoses are not plugged and the oil is circulating out of the crank case?

in that case just use the L28 pan, i think most of the bolts actually bolt up, and it just requires some plugging and welding, but i'm not too sure how the inside of the l28 pan is designed so i never mentioned it. someone i know who was putting on in a 280zx attached to a 5spd said it was just a cut and turn ordeal.

i have an idea. why doesn't someone make a flange kit out of aluminum or steel (our choice) and we could then use something like a v8 oil pan like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230332252328QQssPageNameZMERC_VI_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=330309470821&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=active_view_item&usedrule1=StoreCatToStoreCat&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget&_trksid=p284.m184&_trkparms=algo%3DDR%26its%3DS%252BI%252BSS%26itu%3DISS%252BUCI%252BSI%26otn%3D4#ht_2518wt_911 and cut the flanges off and re-weld to that. or another one that relocates the sump where we need it. then we have a nicely baffled tank, and a pan that will work. might need a little extension and a couple of test fits, and all of them will be custom.... but that's not a bad idea considering what your end result will be. that would end up costing about 450 bucks total, and you got a performance pan. sounds like a good idea. there has to be a performance pan that has the same or similar width.

i take it he's feeding the reversed heads through the supercharger or whatever that is that is probably mounted with an auxiliary shaft to the front damper. weird setup, but from the soot on the tail pipes and the dirt on the chassis, it seems like it's worked a couple of times.

you could!