Careless

i think you should really get a 200 dollar digital camera to showcase your work a bit better!

i doubt you will be able to recreate the sound with hand-turning, but good luck to you!

AWESOME photos, Jackson. I was taking some shots of a dental office today. Didn't come out nearly as awesome as yours.. (maybe like 1% as awesome), but I've not explored all the features of my camera for various lighting situations or if I'm even using the correct lens for the job at this point. But I'd say my photos came out fairly nice. Any info you can provide on your equipment for such setups that you don't mind providing?

I was looking at BMW 330ci thermostat housings today and came across this: I think it uses the same principle?

could be distributor gear whine too. i think my car is suffering from this.

that's weird that the processor would fry. has to do with the power circuit and some wires that you've re-used with the new MS, I'd say. is anything rubbing on the firewall hole that you made? did you put a grommet there?

you misunderstood what i read. I'm saying now that it's rebuilt and the actuator rod is clean and the housing is refreshed... i think it's opening PROPERLY now, and that the sound you hear is just something you didn't hear before. the crack you posted is the same as the crack i have on my waste-gate flapper area and it's negligible.

my engine is out of a quest van. i think i'm going to use my 300zx balancer and have the center bored out. I may have to look at my RB30 balancer and put that on for now, and just get an ATi or another romac for my RB30 later. I think the water pump on the 3.3 i have is the same length as the pump on the 3.0, but the pulley is what dictates where the ribs direct the belt. I noticed that the face of the pulley on the 3.0's direct the belts backward over the snout of the water pump, whereas the 3.3 pulley directs the ribs parallel, or outward with the mating surface of the pulley bolts. 3.0 =] 3.3 =[ something like that (those are not happy and sad faces) the quest 3.3's are a touch different from the Frontier 3.3's... water pump being the first thing I noticed.

hope the job interview goes well. i just picked up a vg33 and i'm looking at some options. I think i'm just going to stick with stock parts and clean it up, and tap the oil pump for a relocation kit, and get my accessories lined up. hopefully it all slips into the z31 fine. I'm dismantling all the parts from the vg33 today and possibly the heads. I'll be inspecting it to make sure it's all good, then getting OEM nissan hg's cause the MLS gaskets at z31 parts look awesome but are out of my budget for this thing right now. I'm going to paint the bare block with 4 layers or so of rust-bullet after removing the rust from the iron. And I hope to have this thing relatively complete by early July. I think with z31 cams and turbo and all associated parts, it should be a good running engine Not sure if I want to remove the internals and have it lightly honed and re-ringed and have the bearings replaced... we'll see when I pull the pan off! I'm also looking into a lightweight KA drive pulley with the center bored out to quest size. total budget for this one is 800 or so CAD. which is like 50 cents USD.

hey C_Charlie. any updates here? I've got a VG33 and I'm wondering whether I should use the VK56 pistons and make something big here. LOL. Not entirely sure if I wanna increase my budget a bit, and kinda get the engine hot-tanked and re-size the bearings and have the rods machined to accept larger pistons. Then I need nistune for sure. A VG37 would be a torquey engine, that's for dang sure! I would definitely need to fix my subframe spacers ASAP on that note.

great job

i'm saying actuator on this one. I think its opening the waste-gate whereas before it was cleaned it was probably stuck shut. the howl is usually a common sound with turbos.

sheez a beaut!

hmmm. will look into it

now-now, paul. don't force it all in!

could be a cracked exhaust manifold too! but really, make sure your exhaust is tight everywhere!

you're no fun!

Really? I thought the Leopard was somewhat of a unique chassis. Shxxxxxt... i almost had an M30 for 50 bucks. It got towed the next day... all it needed was a transmission flush =(

Posted for fun.

It is called the Coolant Head Temperature Sensor because it reads the head temperature based on the coolant surrounding the jackets that are very thin close to where it is screwed in. This makes changing it easier so it doesn't spew coolant everywhere... it still does affect nissan ecu's fairly heavily, so i'm curious to know why it's acting weird with MS. is it a factory nissan sensor? you could plumb a GM sensor into a coolant hose with a large adapter... Not sure if it will do anything though, since you checked the wiring anyhow...

Check your wastegate spring or actuator line/vacuum line. I think your waste gate is venting (whistle type sound) and it's closing too quickly (clacking sound). does your wastegate dump back into the exhaust or is it dumped to atmosphere below the car? when I had the waste gate on my turbo fixed (someone shoved a carb jet in my actuator line to increase boost), i started to notice a wh0000000000000000 sound like a coyote howling at the moon or something... depending on how close your waste gate is to your cylinder ports, it may sound really fierce if it's just dumped to atmosphere. EDIT: I just noticed you have a stock turbo/wastegate... perhaps you have misfire up there (but not detonation or pre-ignition) in the RPM range or when you're boosting that's causing you to hear weird sounds when the waste gate is open?

i don't think the sensor should be hitting 212F before the thermostat opens... definitely sounds like something is wrong there, if you ask me. on my z31 which uses a coolant temp sensor as well, when i changed mine, my computer started to advance timing because it was now working (fried mine by accident by over volting... it's a 12 volt thermistor)... my distributor was maxed out for timing and i was struggling to keep it into the proper 15 BTDC timing mark... but after i changed the sensor it started to advance MORE so i backed the distributor off until it was in the middle of it's rotation-range, and it is now at a solid BTDC and the sensor is now working. I find it tough to believe that the coolant temp sensor being so close to the thermostat (or somewhat close) could be 35 degrees apart... that doesn't make sense to me as a functioning cooling system. it sounds like partway through your driving the sensor kicks on and off and is advancing timing and causing detonation. have you checked, as per FSM, what the values on the connections should be back to the ecu?

I'm sayin it looks nice and scary with that intercooler, like something else is lurking under the hood. LOL. Are you concerned about movement for those holes where your intercooler pipes go through? I'm not sure how much the RB26's vibrate or if you're using solid mounts, that might make the body and engine move back and forth in synch with eachother so it won't rub, but it may make chattering sounds. anyway, i put my RB26 valve covers on my 26 head on my bench for the first time ever today (i got them sent at different times), and then I thought about how clean your engine was. lol. made me kinda peanut butter and jealous.

I would do it that way too for a an engine that has bores offset, like a v engine, the mains get in the way so boring from underneath like on an I6 would be my choice, so you could pull pistons out from the bottom (as some stock castings have a rough area at the base of the bore because pistons are not fed through there)... but on offset mains that sounds like it's a little tricky. lol on a snowmobile or jetski engine, i guess some are v-twins or single piston, so the crank journals are on the ends of the casing... makes it easier. This would make bearing replacement without head removal possible for when you REALLY need to do so... can't do that on certain v engines though, so having a head with manifolds and gear bolted on with bores cut into them would simulate a torque plate much better for that application... but then the task of getting it to operating temperature. LOL. i really don't think that part is neccesary, I think the reason for the torque plate is to get it as close as close can be to how the engine is at operating temperature as is possible with a cost effective means. I guess you could attach an external (and far away to avoid vibration) electric water pump that could pump hot water through the block as your bore it, with channels built into the torque plate and sorts of gaskets to hold the water in while you bore it... I think I read something like that about older F1 engines being cast and then bored this way... that's why I'm pretty sure I'm not making this idea up. LOL. if anyone has any information about a process similar to that, it may lend a hand to some other data or speculation in this thread about the use of torque plates and their advantage with some technical data to back it up.

Have you seen Canadian S13's? sometimes I imagine them being parked on a salt-bed that you see fish lined up at in various markets around town... you think you've seen some bad S30s? hahahahha. a friend just bought a 180sx that still had the zinc dichromate coating on the tranmission bolts... in Canada that is unheard of. 10 - 15,000 for a GTR that is in top condition is a deal considering the body panels, from what I've seen, have a better galvanization, and are in way better condition in 99% of the cases i've seen if compared to regular (not babied) z32's