Careless

aahahahah

That's a quick way to learn to avoid certain people. I see that as a good thing, people trying to keep the boards as a second home away from their criminal underworld probably see it as the opposite.

i think keeping the set point so that the fans shut off just above your thermostat temperature is ideal. It would keep the coolant flowing from rad to block to heater core and would keep the thermostat open so it's not constantly popping open and closed (they will wear out). I have mine so it shuts off at 181 degrees... my thermostat is good for 175. fans turn on at 189. I did this using a sentra rad fan switch. adjustability could be had by using a higher rated switch with resistors in line. this is a z31 but similar, i guess.

resurrecting this sucker. my z31 always burned a little oil after doing the valve job on the head at home (ported, never touched the guides at all, was very careful, and lapped the seats by hand, had the heads decked too). I used Fel-Pro seals that came in the kit with my Top-End gasket kit. It was for an 88 turbo, as for some reason the 87 turbo kit was not listed, and I know I had the W series heads (therefore I purchased the 88 turbo kit to be sure I got the W series gaskets). SO anyways. I started the car and I've been driving it for a while. On start-up it has a large puff of blue-ish smoke. On Idle not so much... During acceleration while under load, it smokes quite a bit. I did a compression test, and got exactly 150 on all the cylinders before I even turned the engine over. well, actually I had removed the turbo because of a fear that it was leaking a lot of oil and causing a lot of smoke to blow, so I pulled the turbo and did a compression test while the turbo was being repaired. The car had not started for 2 weeks at that time, so it was dry for sure, and I returned my broken gauge and got a new one just to be sure. perhaps I've installed the valve seals wrong? I did install them as I have on other engines, but what got me worried was that I ordered a back-up set for the weekend that I planned to install them, just because I KNOW that sometimes it can go wrong... and When I opened the box, the part numbers were the same (Fel Pro) but the valve seals were definately different. Neither looked exactly like the Nissan ones, really. Now, the worst part is, the car was misfiring a lot due to fuel dumpage, so I decided to remove the O2 sensor plug and it was running great, However, it did smoke a lot still... so I figured I would just sea-foam the car, as I have done on a pathfinder with the same engine, and it ran noticeably smoother... After doing that, the car now idles sometimes at 700rpm or so (digital gauge), and it rocks back and forth pretty badly, and even has a slight knocking sound if I turn the lights on... If I don't turn the lights on, it bumps the idle up to 800 and the knock goes away. The car revs up very hesitantly up to 1800, but passed that it revs up nicely, and now it burns a lot of oil. I noticed when replacing my turbo seals that my passenger side rear exhaust port, and my driver side front exhaust port were covered in sooty black residue, that may or may not have been wet due to the misfires I was getting. The other ports were lightly coated in some sort of residue, but not black and thick and hard to whipe off my hands. Also, the turbine housing had some of the same black thick type of oil in behind the backing plate for the turbine wheel, but the rebuilder said the turbo checked out fine both times, and he replaced the bearing a second time for me just in case. So now I'm not sure what to expect. I mean, can a valve seal have popped off or the rubber ripped off the metal casing? the exhaust ones have a positive lock, so those are hard to screw up, I'd say... but could it be that the intake ones that were different than the nissan ones popped off or are not sealing correctly, and would that cause A LOT of oil to come through. I'm going through quite a bit of oil here... I know a hand-check of the valve guides is not an accurate measure, but the valves were pretty darn tight in there, i'd say... and the car DID NOT smoke before I did all this work. It did have an exhaust leak but I've since fixed the crossover pipe leak... Could the seafoam have cleaned any carbon that was sealing the piston oil control rings? Could it have coked the oil control ring on the turbo shaft? I've kinda had it with this engine and I'm thinking of getting another $300 88 N/A motor with 140km on the clock and putting my turbo stuff on there. ಠ_ಠ

because it's a porsche motor, duhhhhhhhh!

for presents!

Brake cleaner will not remove the impregnated residue he is talking about. It's actually in the aluminum, and as the part is heated to have the powder applied, it will start to sweat out the pollutant towards the surfaces. Chances are it was an additive/adhesive to have the aluminum covers come out cleaner and better than using a base aluminum that was cleaner and more expensive to begin with when the parts were cast from Nissan. It's common for companies to cut corners on the aesthetic parts, especially the japanese. They look very nice, but that's where it stops.

oh nice! i tried to look at the tri-elmar page and find the list of lengths in each body, but instead it just showed a list of lengths with no indication of what combination they come in. i like that list of lenses, i'm in need of a new lense when i get back into the swing of things... friggen z31 taking up all my time

we enclosed a car into a garage. we brought the door up 1.5 feet, sealed the 1.5 foot opening with the same moisture barrier plastic and tuck tape, we then sealed the top of the garage where the door curves (when it is open) with the same stuff. then on the lower seal (1.5 feet high), we cut a small I shaped slit so we could pry back the two flaps it creates, and we shoved a large ventilation fan in there and tuck-taped that to the flaps and it was sealed too. on the inside of the garage we put a furnace filter or two, and a half-foot wide sewage pipe of sorts from the fan to the back of the garage, and we drilled 3 holes along the entire length to suck in falling paint... we then had the same tube on the other side of the garage and cut another I shaped hole to have the tube vent out of the garage. We put a filter on the outside of the garage at the end of that tube. This created a nice draft that sucked air in through the filtered tube without dirt, and sucked out paint and any dirt already in the garage through the side with the fan motor on it. we let the fan motor go for about 3 or 4 hours on it's own to suck up any dirt before actually painting the car. the filters tell the story quite well, but i'm sorry I don't have pictures =(

Ron, do you know of any software updates that Wolf is currently looking at in order to enable some sort of quicktune feature? I know megasquirt, running on virtually the same software since the dawn of human kind, has had a similar program called AutoTune in the works.

yeah, i've heard and seen some things that such-and-such said that kinda pulled me away from trusting what was said from whomever! (try saying that 10 times fast!) glad to hear that no damage was really done... and I think the VIPEC's price and features are amazing, considering you've seen the issue and now you're going to tackle it on the 400 . HAHAH. *high five*

that has different focal lengths on different cameras, I don't see the info on different prime lengths that are changeable.

I'm seriously considering another engine at this point. I went to start it earlier and it knocks at low rpm, like 700rpm or so... and then depress the clutch pedal the idle goes up a touch to 800rpm and it idles fine, but with a slight engine shake. I believe an oil control ring may be cracked or something in that area. I'm not pulling the heads to deal with this motor anymore. I need to get something else.

my only diagnosis at this point is that the valve seal was installed incorrectly (that's a first for me, I've done this countless times, but the difference in seal design may indicate something that I couldn't help here)... and the seafoam resulted in the burning away of the carbon on the valve stems that was there from initial valve stem leakage, and now it's allowing more oil to flow down the guide or be sucked in. I did not check the clearance of stem to guide, but they would not move even the slightest when the valves were slipped into the guide, and there was no axial play at all. I guess I'll just have to open her up.

im convinced something is wrong with my valve seals. the car did not burn oil before i took the heads off, and now it's burning a ton of oil, and the only seal other than the headgasket that I changed which would separate oil from combustion could be the valve seals, as I'm getting 150psi on my compression tests, and my coolant is not burning as it's always full, anddddddddd... my oil is diminishing quickly. I'm thinking the felpro intake seals for the VG30 that were in the 87-89 headgasket kit were a bad design... Why? because i ordered a back-up set before the weekend at the time when i did them, just incase i screwed one up, and i noticed the back-up set was quite a bit different than the ones that came in the Head Gasket kit, even though they were the same part number. I'm going to pull the intake to put a new AAC and FICD on there, and pull the injectors to replace the hose with some better hoses and real clamps instead of umbrella hats... and then I'll just take off the rocker shafts and lifter plates and try at the seals again. I really think it's a seal that either popped off due to the different design or maybe I whacked it on a bit too hard because the intake seals don't have a positive lock, so it's tricky to know when they're on good. the exhaust ones just snap into place.

ok, so i seafoamed the car today, and now it runs like a bag of ass. it idles at 7k rpm, engine shakes a little bit, doesn't rev nice until something like 15-1800 rpm... and my exhaust leak is a little more apparent now. it still burns oil too. i'm pointing towards fel-pro valve seals or maybe the guides. I got 150psi on my compression test, which was done after the engine not starting for 2 weeks, so it was bone dry. I dunno what to think at this point. kinda pissed. I was supposed to take it up to my parent's place this weekend, but whatever. I'll have to get a ride.

my exhaust has a small leak, but I'm really passed it at this point. i think it's under the heat shield, right infront of the catalytic converter... so I'm not going to bother. I'll be making or getting an exhaust soon anyways. gotta see how the car goes for a bit before I make my decision to go to BZF.

jeffer, i think you should go over the steps 1 to 23 of the power circuit installation. one of the components may have been super-heated with the soldering iron you used. it will be like 15 bucks total to replace those small components.

Problem solved... errr found. so i went to unplug the CHTS connector that I tested more than twice, and the yellow wire crumbled in my hands. so I rewired it in the dark with a power inverter, soldering iron, a connector from a burned down sentra we had at one point, and a headlight to see what i was doing. heat-shrunk it, and taped it, and loomed it. problem was still there... took it for a spin... every 2 or 3 km it would start to bog like heeeeeelllll. finally, I took the advice of two of my good car buddies (one of whom was shotgunnin') and unplugged my sort-of-new o2 sensor. They figured something had to be altering fuel tables. and I figured... I changed 2 of the 3 possible cross-reference signals for cold-start and fuel enrichment... why not! I changed the CHTS and that helped my timing come back. I changed the AFM twice, and that did nothing. I unplugged the o2 sensor and the car is friggen ROCKET now. I'm very impressed, mechanically, with the way everything is running. My car is burning off all sorts of carbon, and tomorrow before I head to my parent's house to visit them, I'll be sea-foaming the bastard in a nearby dimly lit parking lot, after work hours. Tomorrow I shall order an OEM Nissan O2 sensor, and I'll get it on Tuesday because they close at 8:30 pm. It struck me as weird, because I unplugged the o2 sensor when I was doing the CHTS diagnosis. during that time it did nothing. the O2 sensor must have been waiting for the CHTS to do something... So now that I fixed the CHTS wiring, the o2 was the only thing left, as I inspected the MAF wiring quickly before going for a drive... I did not test the wires, I only looked under the boot for corrosion, and I was surprised at the cleanliness of the harness connections. The TPS wires were way worse under the same style boot. I also made slight modifications to the PCV system as per another thread here, and I will be buying a brass T fitting to put in the lines to allow venting of the can. Thanks for all the replies. I'll report back if anything goes bonkers again with the new sensor. I guess all the idling I was doing when I had the assembly lube and the turbo pushing some weird substances out into the exhaust caused the sensor to soot up passed recoverability... Maybe I can make it to BZF now.

After the timing mishap with a certain someone, it kinda makes you wonder whether or not the electronics would do a better job than the humans in this part of town, eh?

and you could never tell the pan was dented in much. it looks very well hammered. lol.

looks great, pallnet... i promised myself an s13 coupe just like yours at one point in life, but they are too expensive here and either hacked together or the seller is on some serious drugs most of the time... or the frame at the firewall area is rotted to hell. your car looks very clean and the L28 is just plain cool

I like the lights you decided to have made... those look friggen cool and right at home on the s30, if ya ask me!

Damn. the miss is back! I got the timing set now, put the exhaust back on, and after about 10 mins of driving the car starts to dump fuel and not ignite it, and the cat starts to pop-pop-pop and sometimes the car will lunge forward or sometimes it will continue to pop. not too sure what the heck it is. codes still say CHTS, but I can't seem to clear the friggen thing. But the chts must be crossing tables for enrichment mode if the timing is back to where it should have been long ago, and the distributor orientation is not maxed out. =( i'm lost.

It's ok, it was already "stolen" as far as I know, but I'm over it I changed the sensor today, and put some platinum G-power plugs this time around as they only had 5 v-power and 4 coppers. I left the gap at the 0.4 instead of gapping them to 0.44 as I didn't want to mess with the fragile platinum electrode tip... I think it will be ok. some Z31 guys running 0.39 gap, so I believe it to be well within operating gap range. I replaced the CHTS using AZ Bum's method. Took literally 5 minutes. I broke the sensor's connector using a big screwdriver and a 24oz hammer with 3 light taps. it literally cuts the connector off the sensor body. I then removed the thermistor and connector together, removed the sensor with the 19mm socket and a universal joint socket adapter (wrap those socket u-joints in 4 to 5 even layers lightly stretched electrical tape, and you can position them any way you want and they will stay that way when trying to align the socket onto a hex head... and it saves your finger's flesh from being caught in the u-joint from having to hold it where you want it!) I then put a light twist of teflon tape around the sensor, knowing that the teflon acts as a slight lubricant and it also does get cut as it's being threaded in, so grounding is a non-issue. I tightened the sensor down with some lengthy pliers and a firm grip and twist, and it bottomed out and went for another 1/2 turn, carefully trying not to grab the sensor connector. Put the sub-harness in and it fired up like a dream. It idles a lot better now and my timing mark on my balancer started to work it's way more and more towards the advanced direction (CW) so It allowed me to turn my distributor CCW in increments as the coolant temperature started to give the ECU feedback so it could make sense of the cold-start look-up table in the fuel-map and timing region on the ecu. My distributor is now smack dab in the middle of it's swing-range, as I installed it way back, and it also lands squarely on the timing mark on the lower timing cover. I think this is it, guys and gals. I think my engine is finally running in tip top form. I still get the CHTS code, but I no longer get the Fuel Temperature Sensor code (fiddled with some wiring and some taping up of a few stray pre-injector-service campaign wires)... I don't think the engine got up to full operating temperature to finally erase the code, but it definitely runs a heck of a lot better, and I bet I can pull out some timing just a hair more when it hits that point. The plugs seem to be doing their job well, and if it continues to run like this, the wires and plugs will never have to be changed for the next 3 or so years... only the cap and rotor if they go bunk! All that's left is to re-do my injector hose clamps (because I almost had an engine fire), and put in my new FICD and IACV when they come in... but those are unneccessary to drive it for now... and then I need to install my 70 amp relays to replace the 40 amp controlling my fan and THAT IS ALL SHE WROTE. Now where's that super cute girl to whom I promised ice-cream and t-tops a while back?