Careless

go into your jeep dealership and look at the new green that comes on the 4 door rubicon. MAN is it ever sexy. ACTUALLY.. don't go look. ... s'my colour! *shakes fist*

LOL. shweeet!

most def a modified XJR, looks to have mosler 900 front end of some sort, or a Joss styled body put onto of a XJR cockpit.

caught me at the right time! I was just home, and managed to check my emails and found the zip file. these are in MPH, so someone would have to modify them. I know I said I was going to, but put yourself in my shoes. I work on a computer all day, designing stuff in graphics programs. Coming home and sitting infront of the computer is my worst nightmare, unless it's to cross-reference Z stuff. so here they are. someone else work on it for now, and when it gets close to final, I can come in and redo it quickly and have it prepped for print or something.

A good idea would be to get the guys from Xbox Media Center to try and write a program for the megasquirt community, if possible. They have an addon that allows you to install a small 4x20 LCD screen into the corner of the xbox so that you can read song information and hardware status. If anyone has any questions about modifying an xbox, let me know. IT CAN work on a PS2 aswell. PS2 has many things that the xbox does. The ps2 CAN load from harddrive. the ps2 CAN run linux, which megasquirt has a program for. the ps2 CAN fit anywhere the xbox can. The xbox can't really run windows without some extensive modifications. just because it has a harddrive, it doesn't make it easy. You're better off running MacOSX on it or something. it has only 64 megs of ram, I believe, and it's quite slow to be honest. The best bet for megasquirt would be having someone code a megasquirt program that will allow it to run natively as an operating system, so that you can boot into it. This way, it would take advantage of the entire hardware feature set and would reduce problems due to the fact that almost all xboxen interface the same, and that it would just require certain parameters in the coding, and not neccessarily a bunch of discombobulated windows hack drivers. IF someone knows how to code for xbox, that would be ideal, and it would work amazing, i'm willing to bet.

any pictures of the headliner mounted console? i'm thinkign of putting my guages in an interesting place, and I'm thinking up there, like that addon for the 280zx a while back. the StarCraft or whatever it was called. =/ except not as buttony, and flashy, and homosexual

Ernie wants one!!!

i thought it had some fibreglass parts on it, by the look of the headlight buckets, but it might just be a ball of tape. LOL

brilliant. being an amateur photographer myself, and catering more to car events in the passed 5 or 6 years, seeing a nice S30 every once in a while was what got me into these cars. its a shame i went around the cars saying "someeeeeday..." like the paper boy nissan commercial, and didnt take any pics, but you seem to do the job just as well =D good stuff, and congrats on proving your friends wrong. I'm getting that feeling myself now too.

that duct looks like a friggen ear canal. i think it was horribly placed on porsche's part, and too 959-clone ish.

310 bucks for a custom airdam is not expensive. LOL probably cost 1/3 of that in supplies, no labour included. thats a really nice airdam and it looks like your car is gonna be a featherweight.

aside from the Pparaska rails, i Might even get some small square stock and make a ribcage like underpan for the floor. trying not to add too much weight, but I've always felt that tying the frames into the rockers is a good way of achieving a bit more rigidity any comments?

well i think it takes a person with some real common sense, and a mind that knows when to hand over the remaining work to someone else. I'm not a good welder by any means, so I think tack welds are as far as I will get. I can do wonders with a cut-off wheel. Heck, people think I get my stuff water-jet cut or CNC'd! I set high standards in my own work, within reason and limitations of the tools I possess, and am trained or have learned to use. So you're right about it getting costly if you don't know what you're doing. I may even just do the welding myself because this is a project car, and I don't trust many people more than I trust myself. God knows how many time's I've been wronged by people who were there to "help"... or so it seemed. Im going to try and make a sort of torque box, on the end of the Pp rails, so that I can use the standard mounting points for the S14 subframe that's going in my car. This way I can use poly bushings all around, rather than cutting off the forward mounts and welding in a crush-resistant metal dowel to hold all the weight and forces that will be going through it. That's going to be the main difference in my rails, and I hope it works out. If anything, people over 6'5 won't be able to sit well in my car. which sucks, because I Like tall, long-legged women. =(

nice job on the pics. however, as I had stated, I used Illustrator, and not photoshop. I didn't use a gradient tool, or use an burn/dodge tools. it was purely shapes. you can see that if you look closely on the window. for 8 hours and a rush job, I don't think mine was bad. Had I taken 35 hours to produce it, as suspected by my professor, I could assure it would be hard to tell the difference from that car and the original picture.

the best advice i can give for someone attempting this type of work would be to use a waacom tablet, and not draw using your mouse. you'll soon find that the sensitivity in a pen is a lot more manageable than that of a mouse, as long as you have good hand-to-eye coordination. if you dont, then you shouldn't be using a mouse anyways. LOL but that is a fun little video. i've experimented in the past, and it's quite easy once you get the hang of it.

if you want to see what's involved in making a mold, go to the resident "elitest" forum at http://www.ziptied.com here are the links to the threads that he does some interesting body modifications in. http://www.ziptied.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11410 http://www.ziptied.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11409 alternatively, for the second thread, you can go the main page and it will have an article there that illustrates the same thing. you don't need an account to look at it, but i'd make a PDF of the page while it's public, just incase.

woah! thats so cool! hahaha zee germans donating body parts to zee japs =)

wait a second. the time that i went there, i was discussing with one of the employers about what a Gnose looks like, because he had told me he was doing some datsun z front end, and said it was expensive. and i looked into one of the booths at the back, and I SAW A BLACK GEL COATED Gnose front end inside the booth that was cracked and very badly made. They tried to repair it , but then they said it's garabge, and that they would just remake the entire thing, as the front fascia area was so bumpy and crinkley. I Think that was your Gnose man!?

hehe, i was thining of something like that too. or even doing some rosette welds in between the factory spot welds. even using the brass silica wire so that it's easy to grind down (doesnt spark) and it's good enough for strengthening sheetmetal and is easier to use without warping it.

so which products WOULD you use? i mean, Im going to be repairing the rear lower quarters on my car as you know. and they go to the door jamb area that also needs a bit of a touch up, so I'm curious to know why Lead is not the fix of choice. I know that body filler will be used at some point aswell, to smoothen over everything, but for areas that flex, I'd like to use lead sparringly to atleast ad some stiffness under the bondo.

I know I know.. but to be honest, I can't find a zee that people are willing to part for anything around that price. here's the reason why i'm going to continue on this car. 1) Im going to sandblast the car myself (theres a parking lot behind my house, I just need to borrow a pressurized blaster tank) 2) I am going to order repair panels and fix the rear end back to original condition to see how well I can do it, and to test my limits. (I've never failed before!) 3) There's a soul attached to this car that I'm doing this for. I know it sounds cheese-ball, but it's all I got to work with right now, and I'm gonna go for it. think of it this way, this car is actually in slightly better condition than a certain "hugo" car that was posted and everyone seems to enjoy reading about. I'm sure I can bring some of that enthusiasm back to this board once I tacle what's wrong with my car, so I'm going to just get repair panels and do it. that's what im sticking with. I like everything else bout the car. Frame rails are gone, and so are the rear lower quarters. That's it. everything else is solid. even the rear hatch area is solid (minus the area at the very bottom of the spare tire well, common problem anyways) I'm just gonna go with what I have and just take longer to do it. can't really rush anything because I don't have much time, just weekends and weeknights sometimes when it's not cold. I know finding a better chassis would be ideal. but not for what people want me to pay for them... they all have their fair share of problems too that would require money to fix. so buying a new chassis puts me back to square one, except for that chassis that I had mentioned that was stripped, blasted, and welded up in certain areas already. I'm not toooooo concerned about what I'm gonna do. im just pissed on how it panned out. =( Raff.

well if i did take your ecu, all i'd be doing with it is nothing, so i'd rather you kept it for someone else who is more in need than I. Thanks for the offer. I'm trying to repair this ECU for that same reason, so if anyone ever needs one, I can give them a working ECU. know what I mean ? the IC's shouldnt cost more than like 5 bux each.

I'm going the route of Pparaska rails, and I'll be making them myself using some metal from a surplus place that I'm going to go to next saturday. I know there's a lot of work involved, but hey, like i said... no one said it was easy, and it's a project car. If I do it myself, It will not cost that much. I have all the neccessary tools to do the job, and have access to the tools in which I do not own myself, so I'm up for the task =)

thanks for the link, one thing i'd like to note, however, is that I would NEVER take money for something that I haven't finished doing, or have not started, or promised without completing. I've been burned because of that reason MANY times by people who fucked off after work was done, but it doesn't phase me, because that's just the way I go about my business. That's just me, and I wish the rest of the world worked that way, and people changed their mind less often. Also, this thread wasn't really meant to guage any interest in people BUYING the flares, it was to engage people into what I hoped would be a good source of preferences and ideas regarding the flares and how to integrate them into the factory body lines so that more people could benefit from having just another option for when they choose to modify the exterior of their car, without having to go to great lengths. Great lengths like those that I am now forced to work upon, due to the fact that I've been duped for a perfect test candidate for these falres, which I am VERY P'O'd about. This thread had all the same intention of those threads about other body kits and styling ideas, and ofcourse when the product would be complete I would just post a link in here to a for sale or group buy thread. Nothing more. Heck i even drew stuff so people could get an idea and help me out in a less complex fashion. =( Now coming back here and seeing that this thing is jacked up with all this nonsensicle and unapplied info, is it too much to ask to revert this thread back to it's original state where I left off with my 260z fiasco post? Raff.

did u dimple those holes? because that's what makes them way more effective as lightening and strengthening holes at the same time.