Careless

ahahah... SO THAT's where that roach went!

well i crushed my hand in between a door yesterday, so im typing with one hand, and i can't draw in paint with my other. but here goes: take your baddog rails. take some metal that is just as thick. getting the same type of metal would be ideal. measure the inside width and height of the rail, every 6, 8, 10, or 12 inches (depending on how much welding you want to do later, and how much of your floorpan you want to tie in) now insert those pieces into your baddog rails and weld them into the rails so that the top of each rib sits flush with the mounting face of the baddog rails... the part where you weld it to the floorpan. this has to be flush so that you can later tie them in to the floorpans for added rigidity. now. in order to properly calculate where you would have to drill holes and make small rosette welds, you would have to devise a way of marking where the holes will fall. one "primitive" method of doing that is getting a hot glue gun, and dabbing a small bead of glue on the middle of every rib, on the side where it would touch the floor pan. after there is a small bead of glue on every one, take a paint marker and colour the bead of glue in a bright colour so you can see it. carefully prop up the baddog rail, and once you get it in place... use a jack to compress it to the car tightly for a couple of seconds so that the glue paint rubs off the glue, and leaves a circle imprint on the floor board. check with another colour to be sure. make some markings JUST OUTSIDE the rail with a drill bit or something sharp, so that when you use the second colour to check accuracy, you know where to align the rail, and you will resist smudging the paints. once u remove the rail, you now have little indicators of where to drill holes. drill them out, and put the frame rails on again, using a jack. and from the top, see if the ribs line up with the holes... if they do, then you can thinly slot the holes horizontally (if you're sitting in a drivers position), and then rosette weld a small bead across the floor pan and the little ribs. this is like a ladder frame inside a ladder frame, and it is a bit more work than is required, and to be honest, i wouldnt bother doing it. BUT, i wouldnt bother doing a box frame in subframe design either, because that would be even harder to get perfect. im going to attempt to draw somethig for you. hold on. EDIT: Here is the modification in step form. would I do this to a baddog rail? No. would I do this if my frame rails were still rusty and on the car? No. what would I do? I'd make new frame rails and floor pans. If you're gonna go to this length, you might as well. This is not terribly hard, but it is time consuming and there is room for misalignment and error of the paint daubs,you have to realize that this is easier with the car on a rotissierie, and that welding a box frame inside a baddog rail is just not going to do much but add weight. this is a Ladder-Frame within a Frame-rail type of deal, and it is not as strong as a box frame, as far as I'm concerned. Heck, if you want to cut out some of the small squares in or around the rails, you could then use them as small storage comparments for various items, like doobies and stuff =) This might also be a good time to mention that you should probably coat the inside of each individual box with a light mist of some sort of rust inhibiting paint, or drench them in krown coat or something. you want to make sure that all the moisture in there doesn't get trapped. g'lucky!

start a one-month ticker on a webpage, and link it here.

im guessing 2.5, since anything below half of the max 5 volts is seen as a below median, and anything above the 2.5 volts is seen as above median. 0 being max low 2.5 being mid-point 5 being max high if you started at 0 volts, there would be no way for it to give you an accurate below-median reading.

lol. that's been on youtube for ages. he has another one that was a 2nd gear pull. and another that was removed. =( it wasn't as good as the one you got there though... too bad he doesnt push it further. but 300 hp... looks good

sometimes the planning of the box features are the designers job too, which makes it hard when you have to pay 100 an hour to someone for "testing" their first design, and second, and third.. (they try to get it wrong and charge you for it)

why not buy an electric door opener. it's a small electric unit that has a cable attached to it, it's made for automotive use. i would try and make a depth mount in one of those holes that the hatch has there already, so that it can sit inside those holes and be accessible if you must change it. or even make one of the holes bigger so that you can make it easier for yourself. then I would run a wire inside that same hole, and have it come ouf ot a smaller hole at the top of the hatch, and then run it through the rest of the car like you would any wire, down the side where the quarter is or wherever you please. then hook it up to a relay and a small switch that's hard to reach from outside the car (theft sucks), and voila. I actually stumbled on one at the store the other day, was like 14 bucks i think. it's almost like those electronic door poppers, but a bit in reverse. all it does is quickly tug on the small metal cable it has attached to it. http://www.discountave.net/ea8xovtrunop.html http://www.julianos.com/power_trunk.html

heck, if you don't want to go solid mount, and don't want to spend money on those isolators, or dont wanna bother with shipping, go get some hockey pucks and and a metal file, and a hacksaw, and a nice drill bit too. that often works as a temporary fix, because the rubber isn't exactly solid, it has a BIT of give, and can whitstand the cold and the heat =) but I would only do that as a temp for when the real isolators arrive. whats the part number JB Sole?

HAHAH, i noticed that too.

well as far as i know, most of the tips i've seen are copper, and I'd imagine that alot of the heat that reflects onto the copper has enough to make it slightly maleable. wouldnt this somewhat alter the hole shape over time, and fudge up the settings on the machine due to different tolerances from when they were manufactured? I'd atleast change the tip after every big welding project, or perhaps after every spool or half spool of wire. They aren't that expensive, and if they can improve welds, by all means....

im goin with what the mortmeister said here. putting a part inbetween will be just too much added weight. one thing you have to remember is that when you put a steelbar there, you're going to have to fasten the baddog rail to the chassis first with some small stitch welds, or the baddog rail first with some rosette welding. if you fastened the steel box frame to the car, you're ognna hvae to figure a way to get the baddog rails to meet the floor pan at the same height, and also meet the frame rail so that you can tie them together, or else i't just extra weight. now, if you fastened the box frame to the rail, then you'd have to make sure that the frame rail and the box frame are level so that you can drill holes into the baddog rails and rosette weld them to box frame once you've made small stitches to tie the box frame to the floor pan. if the inside box frame is shorter, your floor pan will not tie into the box frame, or will not tie into the baddog rails, they have to be flush on both faces... if not, they're just added weight. if the baddog rails don't sit level with both the floor pan and the box frame faces, then you'll be welding it on either only the floor pan, or only the box frame, thereby defeating the original idea. a better solution i see that is much more effective and also much more lightweight, and easier to do, is to cut small rectangular steel pieces and weld them into the baddog rails every 6 to 12 inches, all the way around (tough to get a welder into there) this will act like a ribbing for your baddog frames, and if you'd like to inquire about a way to tie those small ribs into the floor pan, i'd be glad to illustrate it for you when i get home using photoshop and some concept drawings. let me know if you wanna see it, i have some time this weekend (aside from working on my Zee), and I'll let you know. I takes some primitive methods, a bit of sponge, and some paint that you can apply to metal using sponges. and a drill bit. lemme know =)

how much would an engine from there cost?

well i was under the impression that the N/A s15 that he has probably's got some goodies, and you didn't really post anything about your car. but it might be a good race. show him what your car is capable of, and get it on video... and record him tooting his own horn on camera, since he thinks he's hot ♥♥♥♥ too. that way when you post it on the web, you have his ugly mug and his voice/quote online for everyone to diss him with, for being such a cocky loser. people like that deserve it. so by all means...

cygnusx1... what kind of equipment are you using? those pics are remarkably sharp. I like my own pics to a certain extent, but then I realize that the lense I've used is a cheap 200 dollar quantaray, and while it's fun to use, I wish they came out as sharp as your pictures, and with a more even out-of-focus area. Mine seems more crystalized and blotchy. I can't remember what that is called in photographic terms, but I'm sure you can see it. I'm looking to upgrade, but not sure which camera system to go to. I'm using a Minolta Maxxum 5 film cam right now =( I want a D80 or the new camera that comes out after the 30D. not sure where to go =/

Nice edit mike. However, I think he took them closer to the morning. But that edit would have anyone fooled! I'll be the first to say that EVERY photo ever taken on the face of the earth could use a TINY bit of adjustment, just to see certain details that aren't present in the originals that are actually there but are untapped. even adding colour to get it to look how you took it is a good skill to have, i've found. especially with the advent of digital revolution, and the ease of raw file usage. I think i'm going to start taking more pictures before I start some hardcore work on the Zee. Problem is that I Don't get enough light here when I have time to take pics =( good job on the edit!

i just slightly adjusted the levels by eye, no spot-colouring tools involved. then i lowered the saturation by about 3 points. not much, but it just fixes the contrast issues within the reflection and the sky. I also applied an Unsharpen Mask filter with a high threshold and a high percentage, so that it could bring out the sharpness of the trees, and not darken the edges of the water ripples. it looks very faint when in comparison to the other, but that's only because everyone's taken the more important details in, on the first showing. i tend to fix the small details because i think they count more, so i leave most of my pictures untouched. =) I could still add some effects to your picture, but I like it the way it is, so I'm not gonna touch it anymore.

i like the first one ron =) have you adjusted them at all in terms of colour and saturation?! you could probably make them stand out more. the first one would look fantastic with some playing around with levels. EDIT: just played around with the first one, Ron. hope you don't mind.

The hobbitsies love you too, precious. =)

I hope anyone who's ever taken photos at the auto show or at the Skydome or Toronto Convention Center will appreciate what angles and positions I had to contort myself into while holding my tri-pod, to get those shots =) especially since i didn't know how they'd turn out until they came back 1 week later =)

all of these ones are digital here from a nikon d50 with a slow lense that i borrowed from a college friend (Thanks Steve!), except for the very last one in ths sunset. that was my trusty film minolta, whom I call Mr. Filmington the II. =) That's all I'm going to post. This is a hobby for me too, by the way =)

I shoot film. don't have the means to spend money on digital yet, as I'd rather spend it on my car. I don't take pics as often as I'd like to, because I don't take time to do it, but here are some pictures i've taken from the 2006 Toronto Auto show. they have not been photoshopped, or spot cleaned. that's why you see dust. they are only colour corrected once they are brought in from the CD I get from walmart. =) I'll post some more in a sec. =)

Not so sure about the "cooler" part. but all the others, sure! LOL

next time your girl tells you an inch DOES matter, you damn well listen to her!

that picture is only a mockup of what OS Giken planned to offer after their spacer-plate RB30. I don't even think OS Giken ever sold many RB30 setups to begin with, so this was only a concept engine, if that makes sense.