Careless

we have a store here called "princess auto" that is much like the harbour freight of Canada. super-homo name, but for general items, they have some good deals. I bought 4 pistol grip wire stripers/cutters for 99 cents a piece, and I bought a quick disconnect battery terminal for 4 bucks. and some other various things. They have the best price on castors too, as we bought about 12 of them in the 4 inch size for a mobile spray booth that we made (this fugger is huge), and it came out to about 32 bucks, CDN funds... so it's a good place to get some items that you would regularily find at home hardware or canadian tire, when you don't need the most bad ass parts, and will settle for something general, and not top grade. who the hell needs top grade castors on a temp spray booth, know what i mean?

if it's not an urgent request, im putting a 240sx s14 jdm hicas rear subframe on my car, so i can supply the rears when i get to that part of the project. not sure if i should take my car to a frame shop first (it has no frame, thats why) or take it in stride, and just go do the deed and see what happens. if i have to take it to a frame shop, i have to then pull it into the backyard with a rope, which i think will ♥♥♥♥ up the frame alignment again anyways.

all that amazing work on that car, stony, and no front end modification? it look as though the entire tubeframe doesnt extend to the front section of the car. I know that's probably for safety reasons, but i figured you would have alteast went upto the shock towers. looks awesome though. why do you say he's the only person who can do that kind of work though? just curious?

ive been doing so since terry replied to the post on the other page, months ago infact. I've reassessed what I've been told about suspension and shocktravel, and I know what i wrote doesn't lend a hand to any of the problems, so disregard or delete that if you like. I just started getting heavy into my Z build, so I'll be able to provide more accurate information (or information that is correct, for that matter) once I start to get into that portion of the build. I hadn't had a chance to play around with teh zee, becuase it didnt run, didnt disengage the clutch, and didn't have floors. so excuse my "noob" ness

damnit! my plans are ruined!

and these nutserts would then come with nuts to hold them on from behind? generally, how big of a bolt should I use to hold these suckers on? The car will be tracked once in a while to have some real fun, but it's mostly gonna be a midnight street cruiser.

where can i get these mounting nuts for my custom flare? i'm modifying imsa street flares to have ZG bolt holes, so i need to find those nuts, cause i don't wanna misalign a bolt hole and weld some nuts to the back of my fender. I'd rather have them punched in like the brass ones that austin has on the first post of this thread. anyone have part numbers or know where I can aquire a couple of sets for a good price? (in Toronto, Ontario, Canada, preferably) Or if someone has a good trade-name for these parts that I can go to a fastener store to inquire about them, that might be even better, as I can go look at their selection. FANKS! Raff.

*ahem* Italians always do it better, flames_187 =)

ok so i got a JDM s14 rear end with hicas and all the good bits, but no shocks/struts and no diff. but im getting a diff casing for free, so i'll be able to mount the output shafts and the halfshafts can slip in there until i put a diff in there. im using it for alignment right now, and I have the Hicas toe rods, so that will allow me to make this a fully adjustable multi-link when i make the hicas a solid mounted bracket by ripping off the electric pump. im ready to do this as soon as my car is stripped =)

RF signal repeaters.

hmmmm..... =/ good thing the z is the last letter... or you might get confused once in a while

My ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ god. My scrotum just imploded as my penis decided to elongate itself to new levels and ran out of skin whilst trying to protrude far enough into the next solar system. those cars are gyeangstuh!

For some reason, I have the feeling that tuned long-tube turbo headers such as the one posted here that has everyone oogling and drooling is probably just as good as a short or log style manifold, even for spooling. My theory (however incorrect it may be, or off the wall) is that since the tube is so long, between shifts, exhaust fumes would still be traveling throughout the tubes, and wont be such a harsh a cut-off as a short tube style header. so by the time you've shifted into gear, your engine will probably have made enough exhaust fumes to chase the ones that are leading their way down to the turbo from the previous gear that you were shifting from. I dunno if that's how it works, but meh. Maybe I should pick up some books. anyone got any good ones?!

i think im gonna find the lowest sitting engine i can possibly acquire... (ej20) and just weld in a huge 3/16" second hood that will just weld into the entire engine bay opening. that should provide enough structural support to be used as a bomb shelter, since the Z is the only thing i enjoy that i have stuck to my name. questions? comments? concerns? metal donations?! Thanks =)

beautiful.

i absolutely love the way you've made those STB mounts, but I'm curious to know: 1) what type of metal you used? thickness? 2) how would one close the hood, or is it an aftermarket hood that is attached with pins elsewhere?

can you post more pics of that zee that is the paint scheme i want to do (not the same colours though) and somewhat the same flares

using a stepper motor and a circuit built to handle however many slices your turn-knobs on your suspension has within a 360 degree (or double or triple) circle, you could make your own EDFC. the problem is mounting the motors, as most of them are rather large, and not on a low profile like the ones used from the EDFC, which have their own casing, i believe. It's not feesable for the regular car nut, but for someone with a electrical/technical background or someone who is willing to help you get the motor structure and circuit wired up properly, it should be a fun and challenging project.

thanks everyone. now this thread will have a place on the forums for people who were just looking for factory/general information regarding the plugs/gap, and not any "mod friendly" info =) good stuffs!

not too keen on the body mods. some look cool, others look weird to me, but thats what i like about zees though.. everyone has their own distinct car when they're done, so props to that! =) Congrats on the acquiring a RB25 aswell, and i hope it brings you good fun =) I'll be running down that road soon too

i love you. and it.

if good planning takes 640 takes to accomplish, then I dunno how much longer I'm going to be working on the Zee, LOL. apparently the Honda Accord "COG" Commercial took around 640 takes to complete, and whilst setup periods for the insane amount of trials and errors, the on-set labourers were taking bets at which point the video would be halted, due to a break in the chain. Truly amazing video though. I had a friend request it on DVD so that he could show people at his auto shop, because he thought it was really cool, and I obliged because I thought so too =) Raff.

ok, now i need an address to write to. LOL Snail mail from Canada = i'd rather have the whole catalogue, so I can see what else they have. So 3 dollars US money order would be good too, right?

will do tomorrow, as soon as i get home. currently working on macosx on my pc, so i have to reboot in order to get the guages and post them. macosx on pc is gyeangstuh =)

Hi, I just got my z running, as some of you may know, so I'm looking to change the 25 year old plugs. They don't look fouled at all, but I'm just curious to see if it would help my low idle at all. I bought Champion Copper Plus RN12MC4 plugs, then noticed that alot of people go with the NGK BPR6ES-11, and I was wondering if anyone has a current setup like mine that has tried a couple of different sets. I have a BONE STOCK L28E in my 1976 280z. No turbo, No mods, nothing. I ask this question because I've searched for about 40 minutes now, on google as well, and all I find is turbo/l28et gap settings. Can someone shed some light on a plug/gap combo for a STOCK motor that has yielded better idle/acceleration than what is listed in the FSM or other Datsun documentation? Im not sure if I should go with the BPR6ES, BPR7ES because of the heat range. But it is a stock car with all the devices and electronic/mechanical components working fine. The only problem I have is a lumpy idle, due to a semi-faulty alternator that will most likely be replaced with the GM Delco-Remy unit. (refer to my other thread to comment on that, please) EDIT: The engine also only has 47000 km on it, and I've been looking to swap an RB25 (later to be changed to RB30), so I want to get my L28 running smoothly, and then out of the car, so I can sell it and get the money to put aside for chassis work. I've come to the conclusion of getting the engine, and doing the wiring so that it starts up, then pulling the wiring and doing some cleanup, and building the chassis around the engine in the front section, and beefing up the rear section of the car. I believe for me, that this is the best route. So getting this engine running well could benefit myself, as well as anyone who is interested in an L engine with only 50,000 k on it. For a 76, I think that's sorta scarce Thanks Z'ers Raffaele