Careless

ive tried looking for these flares, can you link me or pm me a pic/link?

says you!

I guess you missed the big "P.S. the smoke is white also" in the first thread. LOL. I comment on the info i'm given, and nothing more.

part number please?

I take it you like Coffee Crisps? I'll contact you if I need you to get me "the stuff", and we'll make the "exchange" at the ever so secret "location". bring friends.

oh, i thought you meant a plastic liner of somesort that maybe my car didn't have reinstalled (my car was hit from the back) If the metal inner fender's the case here, then there are plenty of threads illustrating how to do it, but what i would do is cut a long strip of REALLY thin metal, put it in there, form it to what shape you need by doing a series of cuts and files to get it right. then make it out of harder metal so you can finally weld it on to shut it. and if you can, try and do a seam weld without warping your new flares. the reason for the thinner metal is so that you can get an idea of what grade of cuts you'd have to make to have it fit. cardboard is hard to illustrate that with, and plastic is flexable and almost elastic in most forms. a think piece of metal would be your best bet. one that is thin enough to bend by hand, can be removed without warping (with your wheel off ofcourse) and can be flattened easily over top of thicker metal to allow you to trace it out and make a final piece. EDIT: as for doing POR or Rust Bullet. POR requires a bit more prep than rust bullet does. costs more. and is not as thick as Rust bullet is, and there's basically more room for error. and because of the type of coating it is, you won't notice that error until it starts to show through the POR, and by that time, it would have spread vastly, if given the room to (like say... the entire inner wheel well was badly done) The person i bought rust bullet from is a distributor for rust bullet, and a chemical engineer. he also used to sell for POR 15, until he used rust bullet, and has never turned back. he showed me pictures of various customers sending back pictures of appreciation and whatnot, and they looked a lot cleaner than the POR examples he showed me. i'll tell you that much. Rust bullet is available in 3 coatings 1) Industrial - non gloss, sprayable if thinned down (making the product weaker) 2) automotive - hvlp air sprayable glossy coat 3) blak cote - black coloured sprayable thin coating. the blakcote is their most advanced coating, being 30% thinner, it yields more coverage as it flows better (but that's nothing you have to worry about if you're not doing more than the inner fenders. The industrial grade is their thickest and most durable coating. it's not glossy at all, and it doesnt slip. it's THICK as hell. 3 coats will give you a 9 mil coating 2 coats is 6 mil 1 coat is 3 mil automotive is the same.. give or take 0.5 to 1.0 mills per coating depending on how it cures and what temp it's sprayed in blak cote is thinner by 30% of that. upon seeing some paint chips of Rust Bullet, i tried to chip at it with my keys, and a sharp object i have on my keychain, and let me tell you. it didnt even SCRATCH the coating. not even one of those little white scrape marks that show signs of a layer being whisked. it literally just make a metallic sound and did nothing. it's an aluminum based coating too, so that's why it doesnt rust. howerver, if you do have moisture or bondo UNDER the coating, it will rust through, as it's a BASE for metal prep, not a top coat. you put bondo ONTOP of it, not under. POR 15 is still good. but i prefer the reasy prep of rust bullet.

to clarify... the day i started my car for the first time (after not being started for 25 years), I had revved the ♥♥♥♥ out of it because of the sheer joy and amazement of what 2 dollars in o-rings can do to an oil-pump, that the thing threw itself off my car. so despite what is plainly visible in the picture, i have no exhaust ON the car.

no worries man. you're lucky you arent "uncovering a history of bad body work" like i am (look for the thread with the same title, im posting pics tonight) my car was given to me by a widower, and sometimes i feel that theres someone kicking me from behind telling me to just deal with what i have and fix it the right way. so i've made up my mind and said that's what im going to do. im going to restore this car, and bring it back to life. =) make yourself a promise if it helps. and you have an exhaust. you > me.

these are by far the best locks ive seen http://www.vanlock.com/ they make locks in all types, from screw type, to cam, to t-bolt. I think i'm going to convert the locks on my doors to these ones. one, for bling. two because the centers are gold. three, becuase it's gonna keep evil spirits out.

so I have a problem with one of the engine computers that i have here. one works fine. it's a newer style one that was bought by the PO. upon opening it up, I find that the newer style one uses different IC's (integrated circuits) than the one that came originally with the car. The components im looking to replace are parts of the uniterrupted power supply (this is what my dad says, i trust him, he's been teaching microelectronics for over 30 years)... problem is, I can't locate these part numbers. If you look inside the earlier ECU's, the parts that are damaged are the small round things with the finned heatsink. they look like a black sun or star. the parts are HA1808P HA1809P HA1902P (or 1802P... not sure, my dads writing is bunk) on the later style, they have different circuits and the board design differs in that area. Does anyone know of any part numbers that I can use to replace these ones here? please don't withold secrets if you're an ECU repair-man. I'll get it done, it will just take me longer anyways. I'm doing this for me, and no one else. thanks, Raffaele

so the 260 i wanted to buy is not for sale anymore. i got sucker punched by some people who i thought wouldn't do what they did. even after the seller told me to call him in an hour, which i did, and he didnt answer his phone. so basically im going to have to stick to my guns and pay for the panels to replace my car, and the best job i can. I figure it's my only choice, so I'm gonna attempt it. whatever. Whats funny is that in lieu of this whole bucket of shinanigans, I was chipping away at the rear section of my car today and I hit a damp blue surface, just before the metal. THE FIBREGLASS BODY FILLER FROM THE LATE 1970's HAD NEVER CURED. THAT is how thick it is. there is literally a 2 x 2 x 0.5 foot pile of body filler sitting behind my car, since i swept it today. just great =)

correct, as far as i know. that is the process. HOWEVER. the minerals and all that was present in the old led rods used to do leading has since been removed and most the lead content is not as high as it used to be, for health reasons. today's body solder bars have a higher tin content, if i'm not mistaken, and don't contain some of the other ingredients that would make it more maleable while molten, and more adhesive to metal it goes on. someone i know often recollects days of when he used to work at a body shop, and the older people held lead rods in between their teeth as they were finishing the application of the previous rod, because melting and smoothening always required two quick hands. what do you think came first for those guys? gingevitis or death? lol. I will still be leading though. The new lead just requires more work, but I'm sure its the same procedure, and I'm not afraid to give it a go. Once i take pics of the horrible body work on my car right now from the PO's body-man, you'll understand why

cam lock is the name that describes the type of mechanism on the back of the lock. on a cam lock, the "cam" portion is indicative of the small arm that extends out from the lock tube, and rotates in either direction whilst turning the lock with a proper key.

F that

thanks for the replies ppl. I bought the BAER concrete etcher, and it contains more phosphoric acid than naval jelly does. however, it doesn't stick to the surface, it's just a liquid. naval jelly is, well.... a jelly, so it works better for vertical applications, and stays on any surface a lot longer. I think i'll try Canadian Tire. I would use OSPHO but it's not a jelly either.

ok this is getting rediculous. this product is all over the internet, yet NO ONE knows where to buy this stuff, and the "professional" 16 year olds and retired grand-mothers at Home Depot NEVER assist me in finding what I need. what's even better is that I talked to the store manager and asked him if he carries Phosphoric Acid, or a product containing it. and he said "No, we don't carry hazardous stuff" Excuse me? Two young men just died over the New Year celebration because they had been transporting Fruit Punch in some washer fluid containers that they had previously scrubbed and washed, and this guy is telling me he doesnt sell hazardous chemicals? So now, I ask of all the bright individuals (or those of you that are joined at the head and share brains with someone else)... WHERE DO I FIND THIS STUFF IN TORONTO, OR CANADA. WHICH OUTLET CARRIES THIS PRODUCT PLEASE

you always come through with your experience, Ernie. I appreciate the reply. =)

where does one get the yz flares that were pictured in the first post on the gray car? i looked at rick b's z, and i didnt notice that the YZ's were installed, but he does have the MSA Street flares molded in that i wanted originally. i'd like to have a combination of the two on my car, sicne I have no choice now, due to body work. But i'll be making it myself, i just wanna see the flares though

so anyways. the 260z chassis i was supposed to buy yesterday night (had the money in my wallet for it), was sold to someone else. this makes me somewhat mad. but I guess i'll just have to work with what I have. reason being, because the car has original panels, where as mine was once replaced. therefore, I don't feel confident enough that it will look proper on any of your guys cars if I were to make them. So now my plan is two times the work load. I'm going to try and repair the bad history of body work on my car by cutting out the seam weld, and making the car a semi-widebody, semi-flared rear. This probably isn't a bad idea since my car will have the wider rear, and wider tires now, to boot! but I have to admit, this change of plans really costs me more money to do what i wanted, and although i've spent money in weird places regarding this car, which I didn't mind.... this one the one that hurt me for real. especially the way this stupid sale went down. sooooooo, i'll keep you guys posted on it. I'll have to change the thread name to Type 0 now, since they will be test models for interest in the product. and another thing i noticed. about making the nutsert location the same as ZG flares... this is not possible, for the reason that a lot of people have their zg's mounted higher or lower than every one else, and not in the EXACT same location. because the AMZ1 flares (codename for mine) go from the top of the arch to the bottom, and have the curve of the lower portion of the car molded into the flare side that attaches to the car, mounting them higher or lower will create fitment issues. since most nut inserts are aluminum, or brass, one could just make extra nut insert holes and put some in, and if at any time they wish to switch from ZG's to AMZ1 flares and swap wheels so that their offset allows different stances, that would be their only option.

seriously. drop the victory red and go find another car that comes with a nice factory red . i've seen colours on high end cars that are no better looking than the same red that is on the 2002 caravan. im dead serious. it's nicer than most reds you see on cars today, save for the metallic look of the Dodge Nitro red that they had on their concept car, and perhaps that mazda suv that they has a concept of a while ago that fell into the same colour tone/pigment range. I for one, am going to go with Jeep® Green Metallic off the new jeep wrangler on the website it looks like puke, but see it in person at a chrysler dealership, and you'll know what im talking about. thats the top part of my car, the middle section (im doing two tone) is going to be the same as the new greyish green that they have on the new civic si coupe called Galaxy Grey Metallic. the two will look badass together. try just going to dealerships and showing some interest. the larger the dealership, the more variations in colour you will see.

the widebody you had on your white and red car and the spoiler is what i went there for. he gave me the rear flares that were banged up and under some other heavy stuff for 180 canadian, claiming the price on the website is in US dollars. whatever. all i know is that if it takes 180 dollars to see the quality in his parts that he couldnt cut me some slack on in regards to price for the work i'd have to put into them, then the 180 would be well spent when I start making one off parts for myself without his goddamn shitty stuff. i'll just use some High Density Foam and start making my own pieces. I have a spare chassis to work with on some parts anyways, so I might as well.

white smoke is most likely coolant. im going to assume that one of your coolant passages in your block has a small hairline crack in the headgasket. upon high revolution or extended periods of thrashing, it make weaken and twist enough to allow some of the compression that should be retained in the cylinder to divert itself into your coolant passage, and perhaps burn some coolant, as well as boil it to extreme temperatures due to excessive compression and heat entering the passages. have you checked the coolant in your rad? milky? rusty? chocolate swirl? be careful. your gasket could be on it's last leg.

i wouldn't expect a comment like that from an electrician. you can get some 4 guage copper audio wire and easily make that device you have there. But i guess since it's not BMW it's not good enough? It's almost as if you don't trust your own wiring. and considering you thought that one terminal was a positive, and one was a negative, I can only imagine what type of electrical devices you wire, to be honest. what were you expecting with two opposite terminals attached at a big breaking switch? you'd probably end up welding yourself to the switch if you set it up that way. lol. good thing you came on here to post it! you could have seriously injured yourself.

your main concern should be the rockers and the point at which the transmission tunnel meets the floor pan. i know it's curved, but if it's solid metal in or around the lower half of the curve, making a flat floor with new frame rails would actually be a GOOD DECISION, and would be fun. just take your time. no one said restoring or rebuilding cars was easy. to be honest, even if i had a Z with a perfectly good body, I'd end up cutting the frame rails off the floor pan and welding in something a little beefier anyways. that's just me though =) take some measurements and fab up some TC rod mounts while you're at it. my floor isnt any better off than yours is. I would repair it, but the rear quarters on my car had been horribly replaced and the body lines aren't original, so I'm now trying to find another chassis, (which i think i've located). I'll basically be putting as many 280 parts onto a 260 that I can possibly use. when the 260 is bought, it will have already been sandblasted (provided i get the one i found just recently), so it will cost roughly the same amount of money that the patch panels on the 280z would cost me, not including time and effort to install them, after the hackjob that has to be cut off to even begin to think about putting things back together I really wish it didn't happen this way for me, as I want a car that's never been hit so that it retains as close to original lines as possible. that's why i like this car. but if your car was never hit, you're in luck. everyone goes through the floor repair thing sooner or later. just prep up by reading, then get the required materials. if you don't want your car, i'll take it from you =)

precision replacement parts prp.com