Careless

also, where would i get the hatch sill from? I need one of those too. i think ever other part of the car is pretty good.

which body line do they meet? i think i have enough metal under the hoodline to work with, i would just make it as straight as possible and lead the rest. the panel that was welded on is even in pretty good shape, i just needs to be properly re-fastened, i think

3M Dry Guide Coat with their little disc applicator is a better choice than black paint. It doesn't gum up sandpaper and is well worth the money

i'll post pics later, but i still cant find these panels. any where that ships to canada is cool

so i took the bondo off my rear quarters today and found out that the overlap joint weld that the previous person did on this car back in 1976 is pretty damn ugly. just below the crease that runs to the rear , above the fender flare lip and across the door handle... it was welded there and bondo'd over about 3/4 inches thick, and underneath the soft bondo is that hard metal fibre or grey bondo that's a bitch to remove. I want to cut out the entire rear section and replace it, but tabco and the other companies sell only lower panels. where do i get replacement panels that go all the way up to the hoodline that makes the curve on the rear quarter, just below the venting emblems? this sucks =(

so if i have a 4speed 76 280z, does that mean i have a 3.36 gear aswell? and who wants to buy it from me =)

so wouldnt replacing the front subframe with thick square tubing be stout enough to relocate the TC rod to the front and not have them collapse? I would also x-brace the rad too, incase.

I inquired about this before, and someone had posted that you need to use the entire GTR floorpan and both subframes to get the benefits of the AWD unit, as the subframes have the proper suspension links to take advantage of the advanced 4wd system on the GTR drivetrain. I'm sure there are ways to recalibrate it like the japanese tuners do when extending or making frame mods, but I'm not sure what those require. =/ Raff

would an RB30 with a large snail, and rusty floors and virtually no frame rails be enough of a reason to go the extra mile? That's my reason.

can you check your pm, or your email, i've sent you one recently. perhaps we can talk in more detail, through IM or something

i would fibreglass off the 944, and then make a mold of the panels. i wouldn't bother cutting and welding for a job like this, really =( probably because I have my own ideas that i'd do in metal first. LOL

Hey everyone, I've stumbled across this metal to metal body filler that is an aluminum body filler, quite like the Rust Bullet paint system is an aluminum paint substance. I recently picked up the Rust Bullet from the local distributor, and chemical engineer here in Ontario. He used to work for POR15 as a consultant for chemical research and coatings, and he then moved to Rust Bullet because of the way better product (or so he says) Less prep time, and a lot less room for error (even though you really can't screw it up if you read the instructions properly. anyways!! back to my topic. I've seen people put body filler, and then Rust Bullet over the body filler. that's a no no... Body filler absorbs moisture from the paint, and the hard outer shell that is already dry will seal that moisture in and cause the body filler to rust or crack due to chemical imbalance. would I have the same problem with this body filler here?? http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=5594&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=516&iSubCat=517&iProductID=5594 or would I be able to apply this body filler in, and then paint over it with rust bullet. I'm not sure what kind of a product this is, and anyone who has used it can comment on it, and I will appreciate their time =) It seems like the JB Weld of body repair. I'm sure it's good for things, not sure what those things are though =/

hands have fingers. blocks do not. there's no argument about that. you are jeopardizing the quality of your body work, no matter how good your eye is. I've had a bad eye since I was 2 years old, and I've learned to have better hand-eye coordination and depth perception (on the left side of my body, at least) than almost anyone I know. And even then, I will still not go on my hand alone for something such as panel sanding. blocks all the way. doesnt matter what kind of block, just any block, and nice diagonal strokes, or cross hatches. IMHO it's worth the time prepping it, than fixing it.

i like it, but i don't love it i don't think it added to the lines of the z, i think it just got rid of them completely. which is cool, but not when it's sitting in the between either a 944 or a Z i dunno. still cool though!

may i ask what you cleaned those up with? sandblast with aluminum oxide pellets or something?

hey datsunlover. I live in North York / GTA now, but my life is registered to maple, at my parent's house. Just moved here recently. pm me and we can get together some time when you're in the area and shoot the ♥♥♥♥.

wow, i like those flares. they are probably an inch wider than what i'll be doing, but those look pretty damn gangster. it will be something like that with bolt holes.

0o0o0o0 all the pretty colours =O

hmmm. working on rears for now. ideally i would only need one side per pair, as i could hope for the best to get the other ones to line up by holding two sets together. what i WOULD do to make it the best possible fit, is just leave the area with the bolt hole undrilled. so that they can be fitted accordingly. but that might be hard, if everyone's already sealed their fender well. hmmmm. also, does anyone know where i can get the supplies for fiberglassing? wax release agent hardner resin non-woven (stranded) fiber cloth gel coat ? toronto would be best.

I was thinking the same thing. But I don't have money to drop on a ZG Flare to do that sorta test quite yet, and currently, I am only making the flare round enough to look right, i'm not yet doing the bolt holes. HOWEVER, if someone in the Greater Toronto Area would like to donate a set of ZG flares that they arent using, for a temporary research and development period, I could whip off a pair of these flares for the cost of materials, or perhaps free when the time comes. =) =)

yah, I'm glad someone got the wheel question out of the way. let just say I'm not the greatest at drawing wheels from angles. HAHA. And if I do happen to pull off a nice wheel design, It would take away from the flare design. To be precise, it's not quite a larger ZG version. The 240ZG came with flares that are a tad larger than the ones everyone buys, if I remember correctly from a previous post. I am not recreating ZG Flares, I'm incorporating the fastening method of the ZG Flares into a MSA Street Flare style, or more precisely, a modified IMSA Street Flare. I'm putting bondo over my IMSA Flare to make it like an MSA Flare, and then adding the ZG Bolt holes. what you don't see in the picture is the edges of the flare. where the flare meets the car, there would be a 5 - 8mm flat area, before the in-ward curve starts. (just at the top of the bolt holes.. you can see it in the bottom right isometric view) and on the lip closest to the wheel (outermost flare edge) there will be a 10-20mm flat area that will make the flare look FLAT if viewed from behind, rather than having a rounded edge. This makes the flare look complete with a very well chosen offset, and makes the car have that "Flare ends here" type look. All business.

it's been a while since i picked up a pencil, as well, so bear with the rather mundane quality of the photos, using scarlett coloured Col-Erase pencil. I don't have photoshop installed here either (bro's comp at my parent's house) so I don't have a way of making it brighter until tomorrow. When I do make it brighter and add some contrast in photoshop, I'll reupload the pic.

it's a bolt on affair. which is the entire point of making these flares. they are replicas of the Street Flares that are discontinued, but they embody the ZG Flare bolt holes that were in place for homologation reasons for their race class which allowed them to extend the body to a wider size, If i remember correctly. It just find it very nostalgiac how the parts that cars quickly had tacked onto them to allow them a bypass in racing classes easily to get an edge over the competition with suspension and track-width made those same quick-fixes a nice way to accent the car, and a very popular look amongst classic car lovers. It's no wonder why some of these fender flares are reproduced today for newer cars too. But none quite like this, and I hope that no one takes the idea here, cause that would break my little itty-bitty heart =( here is the pic i drew today, and it's the only one i'll have for a while until i start making the first set tomorrow. Lemme know if anyone is interested in the creation of these flares. Production would be slow, but if your Zee is still on stands and still needs to be built, this could be a good item to wait for if you want to. the REASON for these flares, as well, is the wider track width of the 240sx s14 subframe, which is about 6 inches wider, and which is going to be holding onto some wider wheels for my car as well, when I get to that stage, so for now, I'm going to create these flares how they are, and when the time comes to fit them, I'll knock some copies off. they might be another one of those "long awaited" parts, as I still have a lot of work to do before this stuff.

a friend of mine usually sources his oil coolers from ebay, look for re-stocked Nascar parts. some are from nascar teams that only get used for one or two races. When they replace the engine, the usually replace the oil coolers and everything having to do with internal fluids and such, apparently. So far, every single one he's gotten has been in about 98% factory new condition. one had a honkin huge wasp that was left in there, even for transportation. LOL. you would think they would clean it before shipping, but noooooooooo.

hey doods, and doodettes. I just finished doing some mockups for some flares that I bought from Rob over at Showcars Bodyparts, here in Toronto. Now, first off, Rob is not that bad of a guy. He's actually pretty nice. But organization and time management is one thing they never taught him in highschool (if he even attended), or perhaps it's all the fumes from the fibreglassing, but he does have a lot of quality parts, as well as some half-assed ones too. He just moved to a new location in Mississauga, so he's sorta treking between the barrie store room and the new parts factory/store room. I picked up the last set of IMSA Rear flares that he had hanging around. The condition they are in is a total mess, and I paid 180 dollars. The only reason I did so, was because I need a flare to start with (something to build my flare ontop of), and because if I had asked for a new set to be made, I probably wouldn't get them in time to give myself a christmas present for 2007, let alone 2006. I worked up some glorious (if i don't say so myself) concepts of what the new AwtoMakina Z fender flares will look like. They're a cross between the old MSA Street Flares that are now discontinued, and have ZG bolt holes that dress the full-arch flare style. Something that this Z community is without as of yet. I bought some short strand fiberglass body filler to mold on top of the current flare that I got from Rob, and then some Lightweight Body filler to get everything all nice and clean like. I will be using regular glazing putty, as I'm not using this as a flare, I'm only using it as a base to make a complete mold, and then from there, I will iron out the kinks in the mold and I can have some of these available to anyone who would like a set. All things considered, I can probably let a pair of these go for about 200 US,and a full car set for about 350. But I can assure that this product will be of the utmost highest quality attainable, or I wouldn't put it on my car (heck ,it's for my car to begin with, so I guarantee that) As soon as I get access to a scanner, or a digital camera, I can show you what concepts I'm working with here, as I'm sure some people will be interested in what they look like. Stay tuned. =) Oh, btw. AwtoMakina is the new company that my room mate and I started and registered in order to get business accounts with parts dealers to be able to buy parts for cheaper and repair cars for friends at a better price than most mechanics would normally charge. My room mate, who is a full-time mechanic, is handling the general repairs and coordinating schedules (I live in his house), and I am coordinating the Z as well as the custom design department, hehehe =) Wish me luck!! Raffaele