Careless

hey what better way to check out a chassis, right? "so.. how's it look underneath?!" *flicks wrist* "BAAAAAAAM"

to be honest, i think you're gonna lose. more details about what you have, and what he's selling for 9k would be a good post. especially because he should race what he thinks is not "garbage". and if he has a 240sx with an SR20 swap, that basically makes it garbage by his standards, because its not a 200sx or a 180sx. it's a 240. it should have a 2.4 litre.

quoted for truth.

what about the tesla electric car? its fuel economic in that it doesn't require any =)

thanks =)

Are you sure they are 11:1 compression? I've read the SAU thread and I can't find any reference to that combination yielding that kind of compression.

so you guys dont have banana's in FL? why's your car yellow?

u want a walker or a cane?

tech toy tuning, me thinks.

Hi Pete *waves* I decided to google your name, and found the site anyways =) Nice stuff! I'll be doing something similar, and I'll give you some cred for what i've learned from your site. question.. when cutting the stock rails off. whats the best way to ensure the car stays square? I have four 6 ton jacks that the car is going to be on, so I dunno how I'm going to do the floors, but it's going to be interesting. LOL.

the coolest thing about alsacorps paints is that they can all be used ALL in stages, ALL on the same panel... for a REALLY unique look. Depending on how you apply their craquelure paint, or their soft feel paint and what not, you can add different stages to it and it REALLY stands out. It's a little bit toooooo much sometimes, im my opinion, but it is damn cool to have that option, and a company that is willing to research and develop chemicals in such a fashion that alsacorp does (or whomever theyre hiring to do it for them). This is what a lot of companies strive to do in terms of interchangeability and ease of use, and I applaud Alsacorp for making it easy as possible. I'm impressed by their soft feel line, and I'm not sure if I want to add that to the paint i spray on my Zee when it's done. It sure would look pretty cool... and the marr-resistance is AMAZING. (I have that kind of coating on my cell phone case)... it doesnt scratch, and feels like velvet =)

looks like someone has located and put a reserve on some 280z rear quarters now.. question. for the inner fender well, what should i do? Im going to be running wide flares on the car that are going to be bolt on like the ZG's, so i know i'll have to cut and reweld them later. so what do you guys think i should do interms of steps. should i make a semi-tub style inner fender and just leave it hanging for now? I'm thinking of putting off this part of the build until I find some wheels that I like. maybe I should just aquire the panels and do the deed later on? decisions decisions. =) I am quite happy though. besides, this car will end up looking better than that danged 260Z that was kickin around anyways. I guarantee it! =)

Hi Ernie, I don't mind doing the body work myself, actually. The problem is finding the parts that are in good enough condition up here in Canada I think this car was donated as a class project to begin with, which is why it's in it's current state. I really wanna keep the car, as the rest of it is solid. so I'm going to find the quarters and do it myself. Just wondering if anyone has any leads since alfaparts is bunk, and tabco, i hear sucks. Someone on this board might be sending me a pair for a good price, so I'm going to hold off on pictures from him to see what I have to work with. like i said, it's only the doorjamb area and the lower dogleg i'm concerned about. Raff EDIT: and as i had mentioned, it's only reall the passenger side that is FCUCKEd. the driver side can be repaired easily as the fix that was put in place just touches the lower area of the door jamb where the curve is, which is alot easier to build than the entire door jamb itself, like i might have to do on the passenger side.

that silver paint in the engine bay is a real knock-out! I think i'll be doing the same with my car (albeit a different colour) but enough to separate it from the fenders. =) sweet car there. hope someone gets to enjoy it!

the hatch im not too worried about. im worried about whats under the metal, but as far as the way it was attached, well.. im putting a one-off whale tail that i'll be making out of fibreglass, layed over high density foam, and filled with fibreglass bubble filler, packed to the brim, until it hardens into something sturdy. so as long as the base is smooth, that's all that I would need to worry about. The quarters themselves.... ouch =( but ive seen what others have done on this site, so it's quite inspirational. and you and i have to talk about RB30's ... the data you gave me is somewhat incorrect, and I have a link to some information you might need =)

you guys get all the good cars in CA. what the hell. =(

my main issue is the doorjamb, and the height at which the overlap starts. the person who decided to repair the door jamb said "HEY, LETS WELD UNDER the door jamb, instead of a lip OVER the door jamb like they did from factory." STUPID. now it fcuked up the entire contour of the doorjamb. not to mention the fact that the SEAM WELDED the entire thing. not a series of tacks, but a full on BEADED SEAM. Now the driver side is a mess, but not as much as the passenger side. However, the driver side goes all the way down to the rocker area and it gets ugly right where the dogleg starts. same idea, doorjamb over panel flap, isntead of under. and the fact that ALFAPART.COM DOES NOT HAVE THE DIE-STAMP ANYMORE, AND CANNOT PRODUCE PANELS. FCUK! man, im so pissed. I think i might do it just to test my limits as to what im capable of, but finding a replacement is going to be a bit of a bitch. EDIT: Oh, and has anyone noticed the hatch door with the welded spoiler, as well as the buttresses of the car too.? WTF is up with that. GRRRRRRRRRR. the rest of the car is just usual datsun poop. rusted frame rails and floor boards. all the OTHER metal on this car is VERY solid. even some of the floor is so solid (while rusty) that I can donkey kick it and it wont budge.

well im back in for an update. took a trusty wire wheel to the rear quarters, and i got some of the 2 cm bondo off. here's why this car ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ sucks. you'll see what i mean in the picks. whoever did the repair work didn't do it very well. should i continue to repair this thing? i need professional opinions on this, but I don't think I can find another chassis that is in near as good shape as this. I did once, and it got scooped (still pissed about that).

you can buy prefabbed rockers for about 40 a side, that run the entire length of the car. i think it doesn't include the door sill though. that will just have to be cut out while you're there. wouldnt hurt.

you read that right. the new fairlady Z has been released. it's got the hood from the original early S30's now, and the new VQ35HR motor. here's a bit more information, and a picture or two =) http://www.worldcarfans.com/news.cfm/country/jcf/newsID/2070111.004/nissan/revised-nissan-fairlady-z-revealed-ja new colour new nismo edition, with another new colour. Not too bad. Major update is the engine, that is almost 80% new. go to http://www.vq35HR.com to get some new info on that engine if you need to.

any body know?

CA20 in the 200sx dooooooooood. thats why it's a 200sx, and not a 220sx!

go with what's cheaper, and when you figure out whether or not you like it, switch to the other. =/ or put the dirty one on, and we can photoshop it for yaz

how about strapping it to a soft-missle, and covering it with missles, and sending it air-mail =) might work. just gotta land with some drag-chutes or something.