Careless

i love that first pic , with the small full flares and chin spoiler. any more pics of that?

you can probably have one custom made out of quality aluminum from a local fabricator instead of trying to get that one repaired. LOL. and it will be a one off!

what size square tube is that? i dun wanna say your username. it's making me hungry

I have the guages in my email. Don't the original guages have KM under the MPH? (mine is in a box, i can't remember) if someone can scan the original black guage, this could be 10 times easier for me. LOL. =) It could be already done.

Ok, so i got some tach and guage scans from a fellow member. Let me know what you guys want to see me have done to these things. Any prefered fonts? Any prefered Sizes? Lines? etc etc?! I could make copies of the stock guages but in white. I think the font used is a Condensed Univers or Impact font. It wouldn't be that hard. But I can't guarantee that it's spot on either, but I will try my best. Who's down for some requests?

I would really appreciate that if you did. Cheers, Raffaele =)

I have a lot of ideas that would work in theory, and would be a benefit to the community as i know that some people are weary of what they install on their car. I'm no suspsension genius by any means... far from it. But my big brain lets me do some amazing things sometimes. I'm thinking I will be able to make many products for making the Z feel less floaty at high speeds. =) that should get younger people like us to start liking good cars again

thanks for the replies regarding the crossmembers, guys. I think i'll go ahead and plan out my own as well. does anyone have any schematics of such a piece? I would appreciate a starting point, rather than dissecting the stock unit. then again, I could get these CAD'd and have them churned out for anyone doing RB swaps if people are interested.

great progress. way more than i can say about my own car. i would imagine the headlight bucket bolt holes go over, as when they are bolted to the fender, the turn signal indentation sits over the bumper, so you'd have to do some weird cutting to get them to squeeze behind that little slit and overlap infront of the headlight buckets, simply because the headlights are attached to the fender pretty tightly at that particular area where they meet, and the indentation is.

firstly, i didn't say THIS ONE was a corvette subframe. i said the only replacement for the subframe (or what i thought was a subframe [read below]..) that i've seen was taken from a corvette. and I think it was used for an LS1 engine too, so that makes sense. secondly, I am talking about the section that holds the mounts for the engine and sits under the engine. the part that attaches to the front frames on each side, and has the LCA's bolted to it. im wondering why anyone hasn't made a custom version of THOSE. whatever they are called, if they aren't subframes.

that was the same guy who saw the car and said it was only good for parts. I fail to believe that as a diagnosis of the car's condition. like i said, i'm not doubting his knowledge of the cars, because he obviously knows more than I do... but parts car? i dunno man. does that look like a parts car to you? I plan to do the entire thing with my room mate, and do all the swapping and such myself. And i'll eventually RB25 or RB30 the thing (or both in sequence). The only reason to call whitehead would be to trouble shoot the current engine, which is not starting. but then again, I'm sure it's a wiring problem because the under-hood service light comes on, (good battery connection) but the started doesnt even click and nothing else comes on. I probably shouldn't have removed the dashboard. do any guages have to be in for the car to start? It's FI, and i have two ECU's but im using the brand new one that i got, so i don't think the ECU is the problem. there are random wires that are attached with butt connectors that are just lingering around and don't correspond with any other wires, so I'll probably just end up getting a volt meter and doing some crossexamination with the FSM and the harness i put back in the car.

scan them and host them somewhere, and i'll do it on my spare time. that's the best i can say at this point.

well that really bites. i sorta had the look of my car planned around those frames, really... but i wanted to convert them to bolt on like the ZG with the holes. because i don't like the ZG's as much as those i feel like taking a sledge hammer to my fenders now.

id like to see some front subframe pics if you could upload them. i haven't seen any but a corvette subframe being mounted into a z. that's still a pre-manufactured part.

Today's update: I took off the two fenders. There was some bondo put over the bolts at the bottom fo the fenders where the two bolts are. Then they were rocker-guarded, so they proved to be a bitch. One bolt had to be zipped off. Then I found two nasty looking spiders lingering around there (this car had 25 years worth of cobwebs, up until i power washed the fender wells), and promptly gave them a budge with my phillips. =) I need a new passenger headlight bucket, as it caved in while i was removing it, but that's ok, I'll deal with that when i have to put the car back together. The fenders and headlight buckets look to have been joined at one point with some adhesive at some point, and a layer of paint, but it's easy for me to remove. The passenger kick panel and the cowl drain hose location is rusted to hell. That will have to be re welded, but I think everything else is solid as can be. (my hammer just bounced off it, even when struck forcefully) overall im impressed with the front section of this car, but the TC bucket area is REALLY bad. it has to be cut completely and rewelded. so I might as well go ahead and relocate them to reduce the dive effect that was talked about in previous threads about braking hard into a corner. So i'm just planning to do the ENTIRE frame of the car. when i tell people that i will be doing this, the first thing they say is "OMG YOUR CAR IS ♥♥♥♥" but u know what? it's a canadian car. that was outside for 6 years, and hasn't been run for 25. give it a break. it's still quite beautiful in my eyes =) and besides, im 22, this isn't like it's the last zee i will be touching for the rest of my life. I'll just do another one when im done this one I have to sandblast the fenders and do some repair work in the lower section, but I wont be using bondo as a filler for anything. it will most likely be done using lead bar and some handy tricks. I feel that they will last longer this way, and it will be more sturdy. I'm also not afraid to try new things with the car, as im used to seeing people cheese up a car most of the time. (guilty) the headlight buckets look to be in good condition. I HAVE snapped some bolts in pieces trying to take them out, but I will be ordering a full bolt kit for the entire car aswell. (anyone know where i can get that? i see a place on ebay, but they sell different areas of the car) I had to even remove the airdam middle and passenger section with the fender, as the bolt holding the airdam to the headlight bucket was stuck behind a small square tab and it was spinning freely, so i had to zip that off with a cutoff wheel like that stripped bolt on the driver side fender. overall, the fenders look really good, and the bodo was just to cover up small rust around the holes at the bottom. I'll just make a new steel lip and weld it onto the fenders i have now, so it should be just fine. The rockers seem to be relatively strong but i'll see when it all gets sandblasted.

i have my guages, but i can't scan them because i dont own such a device. I can make really nice guages in Illustrator. I'm a graphic designer and i have a catalogue of over 50,000 fonts, and I'm very particular about type-setting characters properly, so you guys should have show ready art to manufacture if you get me to do it

ok, so i'll see if my friend wants to get one aswell, and we can build twin cam twin rb's thanks for the headsup

i have a question. why haven't i seen pictures of custom built front subframes? Is it hard to do? or am i missing something here? I figure that if someone were to make new frame rails for the entire car, doing a subframe that is better than the stock stamped metal could be a good idea, no? Or do i have to be the first to do so, without borrowing parts from another car.? EDIT: and yes, those floor pans and frame rails are exquisite =) something along the lines of what i will be doing in the following months, over the winter. my car is in dire need of subframes and floors, but i figure i'll just do the front as well, and now possibly a subframe as well, but i need my RB engine first.

please don't tell me that. i want better news =(

which flares are those! I need them! links? part numbers? i've been lookin for those EXACT ones.. not "something like that" like i usually get.

the files vary between firmware versions. some msq files have different code in different areas that will cause corruption errors on the uploaded code when sent to the chip, and might cause it to not interface correctly with the program (bad, especially on a running engine) and some VEX files do almost the same thing, if i'm not mistaken. however, the MS i built is still waiting for it's engine to be built. I gathered that above info from reading.

scan me a real size 100% version of the stock guages ( i dont wanna take mine apart... i likey my guages =D ) and I can make you a real life size 100% version of white face guages that you can give to anyone who will make them for you. I BELIEVE (not sure) that if you were to make white face guages that light up all one colour, you can just get EL Foil and get someone to print on it, in the proper spot (with both "bus"es on the bottom) and it is very easy. The HARD version of making these are the ones with the white face that DOESNT light up at night, and only the numbers do. This one, if I am not mistaken, is made the same way as the other one... printed the same way.. etc... BUT, there is another opaque white sheet that has the letters laser cut through the plastic, and then glued into place properly using an acetone or something. the reason for this is that the EL FOIL luminescense can shoot through the ink that the numbers are printed with, if printed properly. BUT they cannot shoot through opaque plastic. hopefully you know what i meenz.

<3

thanks for the support man =D <3 Canadians rule. You still got RB30 blocks?! I forgot to mention that in my post... FREE

that is quite possibly the most badass L24 I've ever heard. yep. it is.