Careless

wondering where i can get the hatch sill aswell =(

can someone who isn't a long distance call away from them please call them and ask them to send me pictures of the flares they have in their catalogue? ralph.care@gmail.com fanks guys!

navi, great thread. wondering about the specifics though... what CLOCK to i get this alternator at?

i have some guages that someone sent me I just haven't had the time to get them into illustrator, because I now live on my own and have things to do outside on the weekends. but it's getting snowy and cold here, so Im sure i will find time soon. By all means, don't rely on me if you're waitin for them, i do this for hobby. LOL. IF you wanna try your hand at it, feel free.

no i drained the gas and put 10 bux into the tank. The tank is brand new, but the tequila that came out of the tank from 25 years ago was pretty old and potent. It runs fine, it just doesn't idle well. I don't want to keep this engine, i just want it to run well before i pull it so i can sell it as a GOOD WORKING engine. right now i think it doesnt need much, because it only has 46,700 k on the engine and it's clean as a whistle inside.

Ok, so it would seem that I'm not dillusional in thinking that it's the alternator. What is involved in making the conversion to a GM alternator? Is it really that expensive? I'm not keeping this engine, but i'd like it to run in tip top shape before pulling it. thanks =)

mind you, people would probably compliment you and your skill on it's all metal construction and how it matches so well with the decor =) Like i said, it looks well done, just not my taste, and boxy, as you said yourself. I will tell you one thing though. your creation has led me to make the choice of fabbing my own when I get into that portion of the project. Thanks =)

I'm away of that. And what I'm responding with is whether or not a dying fuel pump would start causing misfires at high RPM (which is not the case in the video) or if it would cause my engine to run super lean, which could detonate anytime soon if I keep trying to rev it every once in a while to get the engine loose again. I would think that a dying fuel pump can't provide enough fuel at high OR low rpm's, and it would mean that it isn't making the proper fuel pressure, at low rpm's, but works fine at high rpm's? I think it's my alternator, it doesn't work too WELL, but when it's spinning over at faster speed, it feeds the pump the power it needs so it starts to pump more. I'm going to try and test another battery ASAP. any other suggestions, keep em comin.

i admire the workmanship that went into creating the bumper, but i feel that it's too boxy, and looks like it could fit on a fireplace mantle and no one would notice it's out of place. if you rounded out the outmost edges, and curved the area where it leads into the wheel arch, it would work a little better. but props on the patience and work that went into it. I'm just shootin my opinion

can you not buy wand attachments that allow the electrode to be still be charged properly, and come out further into the area you're trying to weld without sagging or increasing chance of the entire electrode zapping itself and causing spatter all over the inside of the tube? I wouldn't wanna clean that up with a dremel, because I doubt there are dremmel bits that would spin at a balanced rotation with a bit-shaft long enough to get in there, and strong enough to whitstand forceful pressure to grind down the spatter aswell. if not, is there anyone who works for a welding distributor? that may be a good idea to shoot to your suppliers, the whole extended wand thingy .

i don't think that's as efficient as getting a rail stock as tony suggested. You could always just mount the rail further back over the intake plenum or higher up over the injectors and have the injector inlets connected using small gasoline hose as pictured in the second setup. since you'll be making your tabs to mount the rail yourself, you could just try and get the holes as close as possible, and put hose on the ends and tweak and bend them a bit to get them to the injectors. far better than making small containers for each injector, i think.

but wouldnt that make it stumble at a high revolution? or is it just running ultra-lean at increased throttle?

extreme cold? I'm in Toronto, not the Arctic Tundra. LOL thanks for the advice, I'll change the plugs tomorrow, and inspect the vac lines. Anyone else got more ideas? or tests to do before putting the money down?

can you supply the number please? And By tighter i meant the actual shape, and the fact that they taper as they go further down the panels. thanks. Raff

hi everyone, I just got my car to run this weekend. It hasn't started for 25 years. It was given to me by the previous owner's wife, as some of you may know from reading my other thread entitled "No Longer Carless" The list of thing's i've done are as follows. Changed oil. Changed oil Filter. Changed Fuel Filter. Changed seals on Fuel pump. Rewired bits and pieces of the dash wiring (after having taken out the dash to store it because it's nice and has no cracks =D ) I have uploaded a video on youtube here: When changing the seals on the fuel pump, i noticed that (when running the fuel pump dry) the fuel pump spins faster in reversed polarity than it does in the proper polarity. I know running pumps dry isn't the greatest thing to do, but It's what I did to make sure it was working correctly, and that's how I got this thing started... by testing these things out. I found that one of the pump seals had been lodged into the impeller and small dowel rollers. So i scrounged for some o-rings that would fit, and I found a suitable pair, but as I said, the pump goes slower in forward than it does in reverse. SOOO my guess is that the fuel pressure is a little low, but I'm not sure if that explains the very happy rev at near full throttle. It also does not have an exhaust pipe, as it fell off from it's rusty hangers and slid off the header when I was revving it for the very first time =) ANNNND some would say "unloaded" engine revving is not too healthy either, but give the thing a break, it needs to catch a breathe of fresh air and some dino-juice after fasting for 25 years. So the Ghandi-Z lives, but it's not idling too good. A friend suggested that I replace the plugs and check my distributor timing. Any tips and tricks? Raff

thanks for the links, ppl. Justin, question about those flares. are those MSA or MAS? if the latter, where can i see their site or parts catalogue. They are a a little different than the flares i like. more of an arch then a full flare. Grenade, thanks for the link. I've seen those, just wondering why they're so huge. the MSA ones on a couple of the cars ive seen are discontinued i think,... and i want them =( Raff.

all solved, ladies and gents. i went to the local "parts source" store to register my business account as well as to buy some o-rings. it turns out that they had one that JUUUUUST stretched to fit, and that with the impeller mid plate on there with the gasket it, it was juuuuuuuuuuuust sitting slightly raised, meaning that there was some room for it to seal and compress, which it looks like it did. I was about to put 300 or so down on a good fuel pump for the future RB project, but i did the 2 dollar way first, and found out that after 25 years of NOT STARTING, this engine is still amazing and runs perfect. no problem at all. a bit of a low idle, but i think it's the AFM that's sticking, and the hole right behind the AFM in the bending pipe. as well as the throttle linkage sticking a bit, or the pedal return spring being rusty. but it runs nicely. video coming soon

yah i know about that. it's discussed in the fuel pump guide i read. but i found out that the fuel pump wasnt turning at all, until i fixed it, so now i think it will be ok.

fibreglass and bondo! and put some flares on that hole, and it should be all good

anyone know the nissan part number for the two o-rings inside the pump that seal the impeller shaft and pump drive gear area at the top and bottom of the inlet side of the pump??? I tried an o-ring kit for my friend's shop to see if they have something similar in there. The right diameter was too small in circumference, and the right circumference was too large in diameter. it can be seen here in this pic. this is one of them. thanks! i wanna call them tomorrow so if someone knows, please dig up that number

thanks for the heads up, but I'm a diy guy. I'll be welding the floors myself, putting in the rear suspension as well, and painting the car in the 20 x 20 paint booth i made with my room mate. I know it's a big task, but 10,000 is what i'm aiming for, and I'm going to pull the engine as soon as i hear it start, and sell that to get the money for the floors and the subframe. I know a guy who can sandblast for a good price, and I will be making my own rotissieri, if not, i can use the 6 ton jacks to put it in the air and I'm sure that will be enough since i'm a small guy. The parts that will cost the most, other than the engine, are the seats, guages, and parts of the subframe that will be replaced with updated suspension pieces, like s14 coilovers. I have a good idea of what needs to be done and where to get my metal for a good price, so I don't think that it would be more than 15 k in the end of it all, but im shooting for 10k. I am keeping it as realistic as i can, going by who i know and what i can do by myself, and what im willing to have others do (which is a very small list). if it doesnt turn out how i want it, whatever. i just need something to keep me busy for the next year. I dont own a house, im not married, im not seeing anyone as of late, and i make close to 40k a year starting in jan, and my rent is cheap since it's one of my best friends and his mom who live next door. so I think I'll be ok. Plus, i dont really rely on anyone persay.. but i know some people who i've helped in the past that will pull some strings to make stuff happen. BUt i'm not counting on them. Do you have any pics of your project? i'd like to see what 30k looks like on a zee.

update. took apart the pump, whilst stripping the head on the screws, so i hvae to get new ones. im sure a regular hardware store would have something suitable. i polished the little sun gear keeper thing. and i polished the little dowels as well. i found that the two tear drop shaped o-rings that were in there don't want to go back in. my theory is that over time, the rubber just crept out of that trench by itself, and decided to lodge itself into the rotation of the pump gear, so now i polished all the faces of everything, and im buying two new pump gears tomorrow after work =) wish me luck. Im pumping life back into her tomorrow

so i checked the fuel pump. took it off the car, and drained the gas back into my canister so it wouldnt spew all over the place. then it took the motor to a spare battery or two i had layin around, and applied straight voltage to see if it would start scrubbin, and it didn't do anything. so i know that apply power when the motor is dry is a bad idea, but as soon as i hear that buzz, it's going back in. but no buzz, no fuel =( how much these tingz go fer?

Where would i locate the fuel pump to try and start this thing. I checked my lines and I checked my wires, but the fuel pump doesn't seem to be turning on the car turns over and everything, but i hear no audible hint of the pump turning on at all, and the fuel filter being dry tells me it's not. the start is turning the engine over fine.. which is ag ood sign, since my car hasn't started in 25 years. i changed oil, filter, fuel, filter, and i got the wiring all done, so im wondering if someone can tell me where i can locate the fule pump wires and which ones i would have to connect to another battery to see whether she starts, before i pull this engine and sell it or clean it up. its a 76 280z, FI, ecu is brand new. all guages light up and work, and wiring looks in excellent shape, but im not sure why the pump not turnin on =(

i have a chance to grab a s14 silvia rear subframe with the electronic hicas (probably will remove it) should i go for this? since it has steering arms, they could act like adjustable toe links, no? it comes with everything too.