Careless

sending gay pr0n picture messages... stat! (with my eyes closed when adding them to the queue, of course)

I'll add that I've seen enough people with v8's purchase reverse-flow pumps that were not "labelled" as such, and wonder why they have sub-par cooling efficiency. Make sure whatever "high-flow design" pump you purchase, it follows the correct standard. AND, it's much harder to turn a loaded alternator than it is to turn a water pump, so I also vouch for the belt driven system.

a friend of mine just bought a ViPEC with QuickTune. he got the v44 which is sequential to four ouputs, but you can take a look at the v88. http://www.vi-pec.com/page_files/V88.html The QuickTune is really cool and seems to be quite effective.

Well in that case, anyone building an RB that wants to use a standard nitrile rubber belt instead of the Gates Racing belt can go for a Gates T291 belt used on AEB VW engines before they changed to the new tensioner and 153 teeth. The size you would need is: tooth count - 152. tooth pitch - 8mm trapezoidal. belt width - 25mm. belt length - 1216 mm. (need to double check on that, but it's same as dayco 94407) The T291 I bought fits these specs, and it's been verified by a Gates International service rep that it's the same as the racing belt but a little weaker, he said. They developed the Racing belt because of the "heat" that the belt is exposed to... that's what his notes say.

UPDATE: Clutch line needs to go in, and reverse light needs to be checked for improper operation (i assume my wiring on the switch is plugged into the neutral switch instead but i dunno. must check... maybe the bulbs are caputzz). • Engine is timed at 900 @ 15deg BTDC, mainly due to flywheel being lighter. • There was some oily residue on the floor with some fuel all over the place when It was running with no exhaust and only the downpipe. Through some math and some pointing and cursing and a 6th cylinder misfire, I found out the weirdest thing. 1) My distributor was indexed into the head at the WRONG mark on the balancer. I indexed it on the last mark to pass the timing cover pointer, when it should be the first. So timing was a full 30 degrees out. Also, the distributor rotor bolt was wedged against the little upright bracket on the inside of the dizzy, causing the 6th cylinder fire to arc to the BOLT and not to the 6th plug terminal (I changed wires many times!). 2) All that misfiring caused fuel to be dumped into the downpipe and that fuel melted the oily residue that was not cleaned off the inside of the downpipe. and that's why there were spots of oil and oily residue on the downpipe. Not leaking, just a wet film. Checked the turbo for leaks and it's fine. Car does not smell of oil and neither do exhaust fumes 3) All that misfiring and plug wire changing and alternative arcing of the coil charge caused one severe detonation. Enough to close the gap on my spark plug in 6th cyl. So I pulled it, gave it some wire-brush love, and regapped the sucker. No problems since! UNTIL I RAN OUT OF GAS 4) I want to drive this thing. Like. NOW. but instead, someone in the sky decided to sneeze and dropped all this icky snow all over Toronto. bastard... use a dang tissue!

I use this guy right here: http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html It's pretty good. You can first get your block bored to 98mm, find suitable rings from Total Seal (might as well!), and then pop your pistons in and find out what the max height of the piston is at TDC using a degree wheel. That will give you the distance between the deck and the piston crown, which will be your piston deck clearance (not taking into account that there is piston rock... but that's a non issue here). You would need to know the compression height of both pistons to make an accurate comparison of deck clearance. the easier way is to just get the deck clearance yourself via depth guage, post-bore. Then you need to measure the piston dish volume or dome volume. if it's a dish, you can fill the dish with a graduated cylinder/burette. if it's a dome, you need to find out the volume of your bore multiplied by a 1 inch stroke. then you put your piston in your bore, with the crown exactly one inch down from the top, and fill it with a burrette to find out how many CC's that will give you. then you take your "cylinder bore * 1 inch stroke" calculation and subtract your "cylinder volume @ 1 inch actual piston depth" volume and you will have the volume of your dome. Then you can use those values (or get them from someone else) and use the calculator I linked to. Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this. It's just what I've read within every race-engine building book, and I have about 3 or 4 of em that I think are very well written and will be what I use to get mine.

found my timing was way out too! aligned it to the opposite end of the balancer marks! Idles a little high at 900 @ 15* BTDC, instead of 750 in the manual... I suspect it's from the lightweight flywheel. RUNS LIKE A PEACH THOUGH!

I have a Tomei RB26 timing belt that is in excellent shape. I will pawn it off for like... 30 bucks + Shipping. I figure it was used for less than 1,000k before the engine lost an oil pump. I can bend it back slightly and there is no cracking, and it is CONSIDERABLY thicker than a stock belt. If I had the choice, I'd run the Tomei belt over the standard.

So does that mean the Gates Racing belt that is for sale is nothing more than a money grab? because I've found a bunch of working belts that are not "racing" spec but are proper thickness, pitch, tooth count, and length.

A friend of mine tipped me off the other week while RacinJitter was in town, but I forgot to make mention of it. Generic blue Nissan relays are the same as the Green ones, circuit wise, but are good for upto 30 amps, whereas greens are 20amps. before 95 or 96, Nissan had a different manufacturer for their relays, so the ones prior to that year will not plug into the newer socket style, and vise versa. He makes harnesses for S13/RB swaps and such, so he's seen it all!

89903 is the same sensor that getoffmyinternet has been testing in comparison to the 280z ones, and it's the same one that will drive the temp guage on the 280z as well. That is for the guage and not an ECU readout as far as I know. That is the temp sender, not the temp sensor. I also posted a pic of it in the same thread i mentioned.

lol. started her today and she ran out of gas will post up here if i fixed my sticky pilot bushing issue

no worries. I even loctited my valves to my seats and my valve cover bolts so i can never get to them. and I also loctited my turbo shaft so it doesnt spin. I don't want this car to go anywhere once it's working good!

Since you're there, just replace the thermostat. Unless you check the temp of the time it opened, it's tough to say whether it will work to help cool or be too far passed the danger zone when it opens. Check your rad cap and make sure it's not leaking pressure, change your rad fluid. and you can also bleed the system of any air while the car is cold by taking the rad cap off and running it until no bubbles overflow out of the water inlet/cap-hole. You might have to rev it up a bit to get some bubbles to rise. Are you sure it's overheating, or is that what the guage is saying? you could change both coolant temp sensor/sender and get a new coolant temp sub-harness.

It vibrates the shifter because the car was misfiring. bad plug wire on 5 and 6. now seems like 6 intermittently. Also took some getting used to while air-driving the car. shuddering while in gear. Found out it's the fidanza flywheel just doing what it's doing... BEING LIGHT!!! gotta give it a bit more loud pedal.

I MEANT DRIVESHAFT BOLTS! lol sorry to alarm everyone. My head is still attached to my neck, and shoulders. I had just snugged the DS bolts up because they're hard to get to, so in the event that they had to be removed it wouldn't be so difficult. But I'm tightening them on tonight for good (crosses fingers). The flywheel bolts are torqued to 80ft lbs as per manual.

hahahahaha. there was one female RB'er. not sure where she scurried off to! her boyfriend coaxed her into doin a swap... maybe the relationship between woman, man, and machine went sour.

any luck?

So's i topped off the trans with some Redline MT90, drained the crap stuff. I started it and realized that I couldn't do an "air-run" to check all the gear changes cause my 3 and 6 spark plug wires were pooched! got that solved and it idled like a dream! then I rode through the gears on the stands with no problems other than getting used to the half-weight flywheel... kinda scary getting drive-train shudders on 4 jacks, 2 feet off the ground! The real test comes on new years day when I put the exhaust on and torque down the flywheel bolts and hand brake. Gotta put the heat shield onto the brake booster and fan shroud on for now with the clutch fan that isnt... clutchin. lol (got my fan controller and a ford wonder-fan ) Will see how she be. thanks for the crossed fingers. if we cross all of em and add em up, we got a total of like... 12 fingers!

I understand where you're coming from. I know people like RIPSNZ and whomever else builds these engines day in and out don't have time to troll the boards and bring up posts from the dead. I know that Stealth has been working on this for a long time now and has made a couple of posts here and in other forums that many of the members of these boards are a part of. Maybe my posts was just taken in the wrong context (internet, go figure! LOL). I don't mean to say that it's required for someone to post if they know the info or whatnot. But care should be taken in reading what someone went through first to get to the point they are now before jumping to simple solutions which... in actuality, are not that simple at all when you're building on a budget. As I've said in the previous post, I've been in other forums too and got no response for things as simple as small parts interchanges that IM SURE others have been through or could easily verify. I've also been on the phone and contact through email with Gates, Arias, Wiseco, Total Seal, and ARP for MANY MANY RB30 parts that are obscurities in their own right... None of their measurements or guaging of the volumes in RB30's and 26's were the same at all. It's very hard to trust the compression calculation of a manufacturer. That's why I'm kind of stressing the fact that it's not as easy as pulling a piston off the shelf and installing it. Perhaps when you've worked with a piston over and over again from one brand, they'd be no different. But cross branded pistons of the same "specs"... no way. It's just not reliable enough.

I was also told that the AEM setup takes the guess work out of making this an almost passive modification that requires little to know driver intervention. my turbo rebuilder stated that he's tried to use other kits and make his own but none quite measured up to AEM, and they offer the same kit with two tank sizes to fit your needs.

righto. i was just told the same by a friend of mine. we'll see how it goes

Hi guys, finally got the engine to start. went smooth. no hiccups, a couple of sensor wires are broken but nothing too hard to solve. trans is still spinning in neutral though. I suspect it's not the pilot bearing catching as I had thought before (although the old pilot bearing was in bad shape anyways... definately good idea to change it). I'm not too disappointed, I mean i took the engine apart, put it back together with new valve lapping and porting, and new turbo with lines and such. I was expecting something unruly like the coolant pipe under the intake to start leaking or something (just my luck!) but it went perfect. no bad fluid smells of anything non-gasoline like. Kinda just saddened because I wanted to drive it this year again. I'll get her done, but I just don't wanna spend ALL my money on this thing at once. I need a vacation! I think the trans is fubar'd, but I made a post in the drivetrain section because that's where it belongs... here she be: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=970454#post970454 thanks for posting/looking.

Hi ladies and gents, So I finally got my trans back on. Started the car up for the first time since june with some comp-cams break in lube (thick like molasses!) and some Rotella T just for the first hundred or so miles. No exhaust, but it smells of gas, and gas only. Rad was topped off and air was bled. No bubbles, no coolant burning, no oily residue anywhere that I had cleaned. BUT, my transmission still won't let me in and out of gear. With the car on jackstands, and the driveshaft not in place I can feel the output shaft spinning, my car is doing 13 km/h and I'm not on the gas. This was the same issue I had before I took the entire thing to pieces and took the trans off. I'm kinda sadenned by it cause I wanted to drive it before new years, but I'm glad I did the porting and headgaskets, rebuilt nearly everything on the engine except for the rings/bearings, and oil pump. I just don't want to be surprised when the transmission comes off and there's something in there that's going to be costly to fix. Atleast if some of you know what the problem may be (or have had similar issues), I could get a headstart. The shifter shakes violently and there is a new clutch and flywheel. It's my 87 Turbo with FS5R30A. halp plez?

I'm diggin' the fuel filler cap. haven't seen one put there like that before. quite cool