Careless

Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd just for the record. I'll mention it's the exact same one I posted earlier in the thread, and here's the pic again It's weird how the digital dash in my z31 uses the same sensor. Most digital dashes use a different sensor for certain things like Oil Pressure and blah blah blah.

Cross Referencing Europe: Cross Referencing Japan: Cross Referencing USA (I think my FAST is screwed up):

1988 when the engine was used in a GT500 preparation car. LOL Rolston can fill people in, but I remember it had to do with fabbed engine mounts and a transmission or shifter adapter that relocated the shift rod to a comfortable angle. Does give it a more flat and clean look. I was considering it too then I remember I need to sticks dem ITB's out mah hood. Heck, I could use more angle!

sounds like a perfect match

anyone try the synapse gates?

i actually love the look of the Kameari "Bakettosi-to"

I think we should also bring to attention that you have the same name as the guy who hosts the "worst jobs in the world" show... just to let you know.

Mike, just thought I'd repost that the sensor may FIT the 2.4's that you have there, but the dash guage operates on a different resistance range. It's the 2.4 litre sensors we have here that use operate on the same range as the SR, CA and KA engines found elsewhere. It could be possible that the engine is exactly the same in AUS but the guage cluster is differen.

Vehicle Applications 1989 - 1998 Nissan 180SX (S13) L4 2.0L SR20DET 1991 - 1994 Nissan 240SX (S13) L4 2.4L KA24DE 1989 - 1993 Nissan Silvia (S13) L4 2.0L SR20DET all the same.

I did mention in this thread (with the picture and the part number) that I did in fact order one. My dealership orders direct from japan, and it cost me 28 dollars. It will be here in 10 to 15 days from order. The Parts Manager at my local Nissan can order anything as long as I supply the number, and if it's No Longer Available, he'll tell me it's NLA. Garret from MSA did help me with the order to begin with, and told me it would be out of stock, so I found the partnumber and ordered it from my dealer. I've ordered it so I will try it. If I find that I like it, I will continue to use them because I've had two cases of pilot bushings failing from 2 previous installs on 2 cars. But this time it was weird how it happened. Soooooooo. thanks for all the input. This thread might steer someone into or out of the direction of buying the part. My intention for this thread was neither a deal breaker or maker. Everyone has their own experiences. I'm going to be installing it, and I'll be on HZ long enough to report any failures, I assure you Thanks everyone =)

bout to put my VG30ET heads back on the Z31, so now I'm looking at the RB26 head again. Anyone have some good experience with various valve train parts? I talked to a machinist yesterday who works on Elephants (Mopar), and he was advising me against titanium valves, stating that there is so much I can do before that which will net me more power. Then he went on topic of taking junk parts from a bunch of mismatched mopar tear downs and could lay down more than 400 hp, yet people are spending 5000 + on a 1.8 Litre Honda that makes 220 or so. I don't think he realizes that a Mopar Big Block doesn't fit in a Honda Civic engine bay. Heck, it COULD fit, but then you turn a go-cart into a shopping-cart. I mean, I've gotten just about everything I need for the bottom end, save for a dry sump system which I will not be getting. I'm going with the Tomei pump, and a common accusump safety kit to make sure there's constant oil flow. The bearings I got are coated and made to retain Oil so that I could do 2 or 3 half mile laps on a road course at low-speed if I wanted to, and they'd be ok to drop into the next motor. I know someone who went through that experience with the same coating/bearings on an SBC. What the heck else could I use to maximize horsepower other than a super-lightweight valve train, some top-notch heat transferring alloys, and some quality head porting and combustion chamber re-shaping? 24 bronze valve guides, 24 berryllium seats, 24 valve angle jobs, 24 titanium retainers, harder springs, hardened locks, 24 lightweight lifter cups (all though the standard ones are said to be light as hell) and 24 x whatever else is involved. So what am I looking at here? 2000 - 3000 in machine work for the head alone?? That's fine by me. But should I be looking elsewhere for power instead of a lightweight valve train? I got a very powerful EMS. I got all the stock injectors, which are good for 400+ hp on a GTR I'll be getting a better fuel rail. I got the rods. I got the pistons (which I may or may not use) I got the bearings. I got the entire fastener set for RB26, ARP wherever possible/most common. I got a good idea of what's to be done to the ports and the combustion chamber. I can't think of anything other than the ITB setup that I'll be using, since I won't be going turbo. But that's all once the head is said and done. Am I really missing something here? Not looking for more than 350 N/A hp. I know it's all in the head, but perhaps I need to lighten the bottom end too?

Sorry, I meant "different" oil additive. I forgot to mention that I did dump 1/3 of a second bottle into the royal purple I put (I figured it wouldn't be that much, so it would be ok to drive with). The rest of the bottle I gave to a friend with a Micra 1.2. It's kinda hard to find a Micra doing a smoke show. LOL

All good points, Gents. I'll be using some high-performance race-bearing grease. I figure the clutch I got isn't the greatest of quality, so if it happens to go, I'll be doing the pilot again anyways. Chino that sucks that it was stuck, but rather than the "Grease and Pressure" Method, you should look into the "Toilet Paper + Soapy Water and Pressure" method. It's worked for me on a honda and a toyota thus far. Haven't tried it on the Z but I'm sure it would work as well Also, you said the previous owner pilot was an "episode"... Was that the reason for the roller bearing install, or was that the actual roller bearing install itself.

if you search for VG30DETT you will have more luck finding the dimensions and tech info. You can also find it on the FSM's. do you have a link for the Factory Service Manuals?

As soon as it's done, I swurrrrrr!

gaht dangit!

It works fine. You can rev it up a bit if you want to. and You can drip it in without throttle actuation. a 2.5+ engine being seafoamed probably won't die while seafoam is ingested. I know that the 87T I have doesn't die with a vacuum line straight into the bottle. I wedged a 8mm socket in a vaccum line and dropped it in the bottle completely so it hit the bottom and stayed there while it sucked in completely. You have to shut the car off and let it sit for some time... 5 - 10 minutes. And then you turn it on and rev it. That's when it might stall a bit, on the restart. Be prepared for lots of smoke. Just Youtube it and see what you get. LOL ONE THING I will say about it's performnace, is that after seafoaming a monht prior to taking the engine apart, I don't think I would do it again. As per Tony's Suggestion for cleaning heads when rebuilding them off the engine, using SimpleGreen took the varnishing right out. I would probably go trying a drippity drop Simple Green Max treatment instead of SeaFoam next time. SeaFoam most likely stripped the thin oil deposits left from my PCV in tight places of the intake manifold, and probably on the valve stems, but the entire intake was still covered in oil BEFORE and AFTER the seafoam, and the valve train was not cleaned. In order to really use the PCV system to clean a valve train, I would use an oil additive instead. Pulling the fumes from the SeaFoam through the case vents didnt seem to do much for me...I'd rather use an oil additive prior to an oil change. I think GrumpyVette and Dr.Hunt have been suggesting B12 Chemtool. That's what I will do next time. Again, SeaFoam did have my car idling 100RPM higher, which I think is where it was to be set to following a distributor alignment/Calibration, but I don't it's the end all and be all of engine cleaning. I would actually consider putting some SimpleGreenMax in the engine oil and have it run for 30 to 40 minutes, Then let it drain back to the pan before doing an oil change the next time I have to really clean this sucker. It's unbelievable what that stuff does. And the heat will effectivly steam up the substance when it's being passed through the engine. Can't say enough about the Simple Green MAX. It's the only thing that completely wipes the oil and varnish that is semi-filmed up on everything right out. I would contemplate using an old engine filter if it's laying around, and a old oxygen sensor before doing it though. And I don't think it will be damaging to any other components in the engine. Hopefully not.

LOL no wonder nissan's keep having clutch problems. Companies are out to get us! After reading the 25 percent margin for error, that's exactly what I intended to do. I got all new nissan bolts, and not ARP ones. But I think at or around stated factory ft.lbs it will be ok. Thank you, sir.

i swear if i see another one of those rear spoilers I am going to... do something really bad. to my own car. cause my car has one. and it cut me when I removed it. As for the kit, I like it overall, except fro the steep front bumper return. I love rounded flares. I think the tail lights are cool except for the outline of the plastic that houses them being molded into the body. I think they should have been just lights, and no definition as to what the casing looks like. nice find, though!

My fear is that the same thing that happened with the last bushing will happen this time if I use the bronze bushing. and If that's the case, the roller bearings would help the input shaft mozie along it's twirly little ways. jerry's input about running it for years without problem sold me, as we live in the same city/climate and his transmission would probably weather as much as any other z around here with worn shift-fork boots and moisture filled bell housings. I'll just pack the bearing with some good grease. I'd bet that the bearings that wore badly were due to sloppy input shafts that would hammer on them when abused. My input shaft has little to no play at all. The part number is 32202-09500 if anyone is interested. It's around 25 bucks, said and done.

I wouldn't say the top one is hacked at all. It has a generous curve to be worked around anything that may be in the way (intercooler piping in the future, maybe) and it gives extra length so that it could be cut to fit for almost all applications.

sweeeeet. looks like i'll order one. I have some hi-temp white lithium grease and some "racing bearing grease" but I think the white lithium would be better in this application. It's a touch thicker and it doesn't move even under high speed.

I'm going to add to Grumpy's links by posting this handy Gear Calc software that a friend and I used to find out what rear end and what transmission to use in his drag Iroc. helped reduce his times by about a second or so, with him babying the car, so to speak. http://racingdownloads.com/racing_software-22.html

saw a twin IHI RHX6 kit with RB26 manifolds on ebay about 8 months ago. 7000 bucks though :-/

they're chromoly so they're generally stronger than the aluminum fidanzas, but I went with the fidanza anyway. I figure finding someone to replace the matng surface on a common performance part would be easier than having someone resurface the thinner chromoly wheel without bitching about how they're not responsible for anything that happens.