Careless

that's a bold statement. I can think of at least 3 or 4 other RB swaps on this board that were done "wrong" and haul ass and drive like daily's.

i dont think it's worth rebuying. have you considered getting some metal ones welded up? it's just 14 or so guage steel with an aluminized coating.

yes. once the two wires are connected (especially if connected terminal to terminal with no electronic device to take the load) then you have a short. chances are the whipers are fubard.

me too. i salt the non-salt water seas and ponds on my days off.

well i guess this is a good time to say that if anyone needs their car to be held in safe keeping under someone elses name and ownership, I may be willing to buy. LOL hey, keep it within the family! AIIIIIIIIIIGHT?! j/k. I'm sure everyone will be fine, as long as some proper planning is set in place and short term goals are realistic.

just make sure you have double the asking price of the rb26, and a safety cushion for unexpected BS. LOL

well most of what's been done is a fabrication ordeal rather than anything having to do with tearing down the motor itself. if the time comes, the motor can be overhauled and most of the fabricated parts can be re-used. There are plenty of people who just do it to drive around, whether it's unsafe, kinda safe, or super safe x 10000. heck, i wish sometimes that I could just drop the clutch in my S30 down my street (which is next too a local coffee shop/tuner-showoff parking lot)... no floors. just replace the clutch slave, put some new brake fluid in, and bolt in one of the seats so that i have something to sit in... and maybe weld a longer pipe to the header so fumes dont come into the car from under my feet...... and take the car and all of it's 1600 lbs stripped to the bone chassis, and 160hp down the street or around the block for a couple of passes at WOT... no doors. no hood. no exhaust. no hatch. no quarter glass. no passenger seat. no dash. just taped up guages, a steering column, and the uni-body... JUST BECAUSE i don't drive often i think just having a good mechanic or licensed friend that deals with safety laws day in and out is enough to judge whether or not the car is within the proper safety margin for non-stupid driving.

btw, if you don't mind, can you find out what colour that supra is? colour code or what it's from? It looks a little diff than the green that came on the TT supras.

I didn't know the digital chips v12 quad gtr was an amg engine. i saw no indication of where it cam from, i figured they did some R&D and custom casting of somesort, seeing as the thing made 1200hp i figured they'd be able to do so with the money needed to get there. Boozt3d, I'm glad you can enjoy the car on the street now. it's too nice and street-like and too cool to be a dyno queen or strictly drag. now that it's more comfortable and easier to scoot around in, i'll be you'll be concentrating on other things to make it more "weekend track" flaunt it, damnit!

it could be that there was a lot of water getting into the whiper motor connector or seal that made it's way to the motor coil.

your whiper motor moved and possibly shorted two wires or your whiper switch is sticking. have you tried unplugging the switch?

excuse me for saying this- the fact that you, yourself, have associated the look of the hood buldge with someone who is as hideous as can be should make it fairly apparent that the results of what you do to that hood with a picture of him in mind will not be far off from his level of hideousness. I think there are nicer ways to accomplish what you need, and the rest of your car and all your other contributions to this site clearly show that. LOL. how about angling/curving the velocity stacks so they have a slight curve towards the back of the car, that would allow you to slope the bulge lower and keep almost the same profile your car currently possesses. I know everyone wants to keep the velocity stacks as straight as possible but there are plenty of high performance race cars and street cars that have slightly curved velocity stacks for clearance issues (look up SLR 8000 Holden) and they look way better, and offer just about the same performance if you do it right.

LOL, online parts catalogue? maybe soon at rb30de.com but for now... a lot higher priorities, like getting this damned vg30et back together The only thing I can think of that would neutralize the rust would be the phosphoric acid treatment, but I'm not entirely sure how well that would work on an aluminum headed engine and the other metals or rubbers that circulate through the system. Even then, it starts to create white powdery deposits that need to be cleaned, so it's best to just use distilled water and run it as is. Nothing to do but tear down the engine. TEAR IT DOWN I SAY!

and your block looks pretty rusty inside. from now on, try using distilled water to avoid rusty flakes clogging your water jackets

if it's the brass sensor that is about 8mm in diameter and is a 10 or a 12, with a tiny terminal and a nissan hamburger emblem etched into it and looks kinda like this: then it is the one for your temperature guage, I believe. Whether or not it works... well you could ask someone with a Z31 as they are the same type of sensor.

no, the N1 pump is distinguishable if it is a real picture. it has an anti-cavitation plate behind the 6 large fins (instead of 8 small ones). It is like a big washer welded behind them to stop vortecies from occuring behind the pump and causing cavitation. the RB25, 26, N1 pumps all work on either engines.

have you guys considered resoldering the power-supply IC's on the board? It could be possible that there are some bad IC's or some that were heated too much whilst soldering. Also, it may be a good practice to resolder some of the IC's in some iffy areas to avoid any cold solder joints. Just puttin' it out there. Electrical parts can and do degrade over time.

Yesterday night I bought a mall trash bin (8 Litres) and I bought some super-clean from walmart. I put it in the trash bin and diluted it some. It works wonders. HOWEVER, I'm glad I didn't use it on the head. Shortly after (1 hour) dunking my intake manifold into the solution, it started to clean really well, but it started to turn a darker colour... Not really black, but like a film of a darker shade of grey. I immediately took it out and sprayed it with the last bit of simple green that I had. What worries me is that I use it on my throttle body as well and that's supposed to be a tight seal. It is definately aluminum rubbing off because it keeps whipping off as a dark grey film onto any cloth I use. I neutralized the throttle body with some dish detergant and simple green max bath/spray/scrape/brush. Tonight I'm going to go buy more paint (stupid gold never looks like the cap on the spray bottle!) and get some more simple green max. Only problem is that I can't find larger quantities of simple green. Raff

I Used Easy Off on the A/C mounting bracket and the tensioner/pulley bracket and it burned the soot and crud off it immediately. I then painted them silver on one side, and will be finishing the other side tonight. They're not even visible, but I figured I might as well to prevent corrosion. Tonight, I'm going to lift the manifold out from the driver side of the engine bay and spray easy-off on the engine block and use a wire brush to remove all the loose rust. There seems to be an insane amount of build-up on around the dip-stick tube. I hope nothing is severly pitted enough to break off. And yah, don't use it on Aluminum. I think I'm going to mask off the pistons really well before I attempt to use it on the block.

I have had my car for 3 years and I could use some free parts. LOL

no one brings any RBXXE's here unless they're special request. It's quite rare that someone would ask for the sohc.

didnt know RB20's had oil squirters. nice! but my question is.... why would you buy an RB20 that rusty? I would never even consider that a viable option even with an acid dip. that looks like it was made circa L series engines and left in a wadding pool :-/

That sucks. A friend of mine just built a 355 sbc and suffered the same fate after it was in the car making roughly 400 ftlbs. 6th cylinder let go an went straight through the pan on the way to the Camaro show. He's one of my "z" (z28) buddies too. He bought the short block "slightly used" from someone, with a nice PTV smiley stamp on that piston. It must have crushed the main bearing or hammered on the crank pin to put it out of round. But that RB20... that's just... GAHT DAAAAAAAAAANG