Careless

i thought shuttle material was a ceramic plate. if you can find a Ford GT90 Concept car, you could take the engine bay lining. I know they have the same material. LOL

running z cars were never a sign of trouble! ...so I guess that does make ME a trouble maker

at most, your tach or your speedo might be off and you may lose some car features like digital dash or some other model-specific amenities/accessories, but those you can figure out once the car is running.

Hi Guys, I figured I'd get some simplegreen max because that's what I've been using, so I got a rubbermaid tote, 2 bottles of the max, and 8 litres of distilled water so it does not rust any of the head parts that may be iron or steel or whatever else. I also bought a steam cleaner that I used for about 10 minutes. I don't even think it was at max heat yet but it blasted thin films of oil off in seconds. I think I should have opened the garage door a bit more though! LOL. good thing it's not toxic stuff! Anyways, I have both heads off, and this was the one where the PCV valve shut closed just over the intake rockers, so they were sooty and varnished as if they were painted deep brown, yet the driver side valve train is bronzed with varnished and looks as if it were meticulously painted by the oil-film gods. It seems as if its doing the job and hopefully it does not gall the aluminum, because if it does, I'm going to have no choice but to use some fine synthetic steel wool and just make them as smooth as possible and chuck the heads back on (moving back to my house, can't have the car in pieces, it's got to move!) but so far, so good.!

and you say the pistons are coated with "decent" stuff? Where can I get the SUPER DOOPER stuff?

*cough* PrimeEMS *cough*

Sorry i've confused you. I did not actually complete this mod, I just had a bunch of power window motors laying around and the stanza one is simple and has a same-side cable exit. You would not need the factory regulator assembly, you just need to orient the stanza rail properly so it moves with out binding. To me, it looked like a sure fit. I could be wrong, but I'm glad someone else is taking this bull by the horns and finding out where to go with the power window stuff. There could be a lot of M30's we can ram-sack for parts.

just another day at the office (wish I did actually have a laptop so I could google and develop application for web from my throne)

most all z car pressure plates line up with only 6 of the 9 holes on the fidanza unit because from what I've read on NICO (i think), those holes are for another application. I can't remember if it was a non-nissan application or what, but the part numbers where the same, yet the car was not. And just to add to this, my SECO stage 2 pressure plate only lines up with 6 of my Fidanza flywheel holes as well.

RB25 flywheels will work on the RB20 200ZR oil pans are factory ON the japanese RB20DET in the Z31. A lot of parts can be found at JGY. http://www.jgycustoms.com/

And what's with that stupid bolt on the back and front of the heads that is like 8 x 1.25 and about 2 cm in height. What the hell is that there for? LOL.

THANKS JAY I'll take a pic and report back when I go in there tonight to clean up the oily banzai tree nissan planted under my lower intake.

Did not end up fiddling with it much more than I did once I put it away for the summer. I've been working at this stupid VG motor that nissan shoe-horned into the Z31. Just took off the heads 2 days ago to remove 5 broken studs. Tried for 2 weeks to take out one stud on the passenger side and it didnt work out. Yesterday I took out 4 studs in about an hour and a half. LOL. damn VG.

Hey J, I'm not sure if the Canadian 05/87's got the later heads, as nissan seemed to give everything to us at about 08/87 instead cause we're "cooler" Do you have pics, or know of any designation on the head which indicates later or earlier heads of the split year? I'm trying to buy a headgasket kit this weekend, and I'm putting it all back together next week, hopefully =) And if you got some sites with some mild VG30ET head porting tips

Hey Mark, A quick search for FTDI RS232 will bring up some searches like this (if you choose Canada as the Region for your google advanced search settings) http://www.liquidware.com/shop/show/FTDI/FTDI+USB-+Serial+adapter+cable These guys have a calgary/Internation Number, and stock the following unit which requires a dollar store extension cable to plug into the USB Female port: http://www.hvwtech.com/products_view.asp?ProductID=867 These units here seem to use the FTDI chipset (as noted by the last review concerning drivers procured from the FTDI website). There may be similar units if you search by the nGear name within your city. http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?mode=productreviewread&product_id=17281

It wouldn't hurt to just lightly sand the rocker contact face with some 1000 to get it back to a shine. Some also use the older Rotella T oil that is still available if you look hard. It contains a lot of lead too apparently, and is a common SBC break in oil

same. especially since you have your crank out, you should check your run-out at the machine shop. once you heat up the snout and press on or weld on the collar, your crank is susceptable to a slight out-of-round. It's not a huge issue. Procuring an R33 crank would be the same cost or more than the collar + installation and blue-printing of the unit once it's said and done. And you can never be sure that the R33 crank will be in the same condition. And plus, you can bargain with the machinist and tell him to do some oil hole cleaning and chamfering as part of the collar + post inspection price. I guess some may find R33 cranks in top condition for less, but then again... not everyone can.

It's nice outside, I think I'm going to go sand down the corrosion and see what happens

I might end up coating mine with Duplicolor High-temp clear. I'd imagine it's steel, and not aluminum. Either way, my L28 cover has these hairline cracks or some small webbing in it. I'd like to know how to get the pits out, or what grit to start with :-/

do you coat them with a high-temp clear, or do we have to set up a yearly polishing schedule. LOL aluminum has a tendency to corrode and pit, no?

I'm just curious... My valve cover has some pitting and corrosion, but I want to get rid of it and have the cover looking at least close to polished... what do you guys recommend? I bought some 50, 80, 120, 180, 220, 320, 400, 600, 1200, and 1500 grit aluminum oxide sheets in both standard and wet applications.... what should i start with to get the pitting out. I'd say they're about 0.25 mm deep pits, if that. I just can't polish ontop of them though.

I will be paypal'n you the moola tonight or tomorrow night for sheezy!!

get spool rods. for the price, you can't even get rb26 rods fitted and have the bearings checked for proper clearances at the machine shop and the big ends bored to the proper size for the same price as a set of spool rods. in the end, forged rods would probably cost less.

I'm willing to bet your oil pump has worn passed the acceptable tolerance for clearance between the housing/inner/outer pump gears. Maybe an oil pump R&R and a new sump pickup tube would clear the issue? At least if it does not, you can take the turbo oil pump off and use it with your VG30 crank and VG33 block (someone correct me on this if I'm wrong).

full, unobstructed fuel flow and an open-housing electrical generator. sound like a good idea to you? is someone with me on this or am I just worrying too much. especially after all the work you just put into getting it lookin all purdy like