Careless

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/21-2082 Anyone ever use one of these? I found that my input shaft has virtually no play. It's definitely not the problem starter from the previous owner's clutch job on my 87 z31t. It seems like the bearing wasn't driven in far enough and was catching on the hilt of the input shaft (grind marks, abnormal brazing and wear on the input shaft). Just read on another site for SBC's that have a shorter service life. I'm curious it that's true or not, or just a "save our ass" gimmick. Anyone use these for prolonged periods? I'm thinking of putting one of them in cause of the cheap price and the "i'm there now, might as well" aspect. it's going to be my spring/summer/fall daily, with some track days in the new year.

is there any room for cutting that radiator hose down some so that it has less of a curvature? looks like it was made for this. again, nice find

beautiful composition paul

i swear, datsun knew we would be doing this with intercoolers. it's just TOO obvious!!!!

Z24O may have hit the nail on the head here. I found that my PCV valve was NEVER changed on my Z31. It was so badly clogged or worn that my Driver's side head/vc with the vaccuum line was varnished with oil as normal... nice bronzing... but the Passenger side head with the pressure line was completely covered in a sooty oily residue. The manifolds were soaked in oil. I think the pressure buildup in the head caused the PCV valve to be stuck open at times and just squirt hot shots of oil into the intake tract. The throttle plate had so much build up behind it, and it worked it's way all the way back down the intake tract and covered the entire turbocharger compressor plate in oil and clogged my actuator. Funny enough, the front of the throttle plate was perfectly clean, and it seems as if there was enough vacuum coming from the turbocharger off boost that it started to pull the oil back down into the compressor housing little by little. I'm taking apart the turbo tomorrow to see how it really is. I just bought a 2 pack Thermos and Hot Cup storage pack. Stainless steel for 9 bucks. So now I have something to make a catch can with that is solid, and I have something to keep some nice warm soup in for the drive to work.

hey you think a dry bird on a rack is odd... I was doing brakes for a friend and took his hub-cap off his sentra, and a flattened baby mouse/rat slid out of one of the "spokes" on the hub-cap. And to top it off, we have a friend who's devastated about dead animals and stuff like that, so we slipped it under his grand-am's driver door-handle. Nothing like opening you door and finding a paper-thin dead rat in your hand. I think that little guy got spun around so many times that he just started to flatten out from all the high-speed. LOL

yesssssssssssssssssssss. getoffmyinternet and go work on getting it started !!!!

i think a vh in your car would take a lot more work and money than something that just drops right in. transmission is an ordeal. wiring is an ordeal. fabrication is an ordeal. whereas with the L28ET either someone has something you can reference to in order to make 300 hp, or someone will sell you a working plethora of much needed parts to get there on HybridZ.

I would have it replaced since you're there, but it seems as though it held up this long. Heck I bet JB Weld would hold up too as it's not an insane amount of pressure... but If you're building it up, I would go ahead and change it

glad i cleaned all the carbon off every pipe, port, and valve on my z31t. I'm going to go for a drive-clean test to see if I pass when the heads are back on, even though I don't need too (which I don't )

There are two squirrles in my garage, at first it was one to whom we gave the name "Soffit", as that's where we presumed he came through. Then a friend came. I squirted WD40 into a corner where he usually goes when he wasn't there, so that he wouldn't sit up there. To my luck he brings a friend. I would leave some tasty coolant up there but frankly, they don't bother anyone... probably kill mice, and they never hurt no body. I think moth balls are gonna have to do this time. Thankfully I don't leave food in the garage so that they can have a stab at it. That would bring them down to ground-zero, and then from there it's coolant fest and acidic RTV silicone to munch on as a Last Supper.

Every time I see a car like this with those wheels, I want them more and more just cause of how badass they look with the thick tires. It looks more "business".

also, what J S. is trying to say and what stony is illustratating is that you don't have a clamp in that are, it's just welded after cutting off the straight hose-mounting section that's currently there. Took me a second look to see it in stony's post, so it probably slipped you too, LOL. never know!

you might have to cut the short side radius of the 90 degree bends a bit and sacrifice the tiny percentage of airflow that will cause turbulence in that area, but I think it will be much like many port designs that are not quite 90 degrees in design. I would center the IC a bit more and have two 90's on either side at the top (or at the bottom would work too in this case) and start cutting the short sides of the 90's together until you reach a suitable even ended pipe route. I think it would be better than to have one full 90' and one 45-type weirdly offset cut 90' on the other end. It should be just a U-Bend cut in half to get part way there. Car looks clean, too! I wish my cars were that clean to work on. LOL

yeah but you know what. I like the quest of searching for parts and buying overseas. It's a learning process that I enjoy seeing unfold through experience. yeah it costs more, but it's only an issue for those without a proper budget, or those who care. LOL. <-- and as far as my screen name goes...

for what it's worth, you can get this from rockauto.com CENTERFORCE Part # CFT534007 Centerforce II; Clutch Kit; Size 9 7/16 in.; 24 Spline By 1 in.; Incl. Pressure Plate/Clutch Disc; Does Not Incl. Throwout Bearing $309.79

Can you replace the power IC, i think it's U16 on the MS1,V3.0 board. it's like 10 bucks IF that. Its part of the power supply circuit on the board near the top left.

The flat portion on the outside diameter of the crank snout that mates with the flat portion on the inside diameter of the oil pump (which locks their movement together) is smaller on the R32's, while all the oil pumps have the same size flat portion whether for R32 33 or 34. this makes the oil pump like using an 14mm wrench (pump) on a 13mm bolt (crank snout). vibrates itself to pieces.

s'what it's all aboooot! conga-rats

a bunch of fuel pumps would be my guess.

until i beat this car, i will pursue the need for speed: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOJjBrh6-qg

so... my 50 million? ........ gone?

tried finding it in toronto, no luck thus far

LOLOL good one globe runner

a long ass is different from a fat ass for a car. If you look at it from behind, or the front, it looks fat. if you look at it from the side, it looks long. the S30 has a clean slop that goes from the top of the roof-line straight to the back, with almost no obstruction or upwards curve. the 350z does that. I don't know which one i like better right now, bu I think the 370 is closer to the s30 than the 350 is.