Careless

try painting it with Rust Bullet instead of bed liner. If you get the Black Kote version it's thinner and can be sprayed 2 or 3 times and it won't possibly ever rust again! and most of what you said is incorrect about metal headgaskets on high boost motors. take a look at Tomei and Kameari and HKS, they all make Multi Layer Metal gaskets. Having the gasket as a weak link is indeed a plus compared to rods exploding, but if you have the potential to crack or twist a rod, a head gasket was never your problem. The reason why the supra would blow a headgasket is possibly because the factory gasket is poo.

gotta love those taylor wires I'm going to agree with Xnke on the valve relief jut. I think they could be rounded out with a dremel tool slightly. that makes for a very small and sharp edge that can heat up quickly. Hopefully it's not going to do any harm. * crossing my fingers for you!*

i bought some 74w bulbs for various 87 Z31T dash guages and some larger 195 (i think) bulbs that I have yet to fit to the cluster. They require some modification to the actual bulb to fit the original housings, which I reused. Nothing that a dremel and 30 minutes of griding with a fine tool can't fix. they look AWESOME, and have a better green colour overall than the original green-condom incandescent bulbs. Also, they work with the factory PWM switch that is integrated into the dash via the push button to control the lighting of the digital display. Only when the lights are set to the full on position though! It looks amazing and is way easier to read. Now if Only I could pull out my cluster and get the plastic sheet removed so I can colour match it with some Parcan Gel sheets!

a continuity tester doesn't care about colour!

here you go. http://www.scribd.com/doc/1033517/Nissan-R33-to-Wolf-V500-pinouts-with-link

save yourself a lot of time and get the cheapest drill press you can (i got one for 29 bucks), and chuck various wire wheels and polishing sponges in there and it will go super quick. I did the entire front side of my L28 valve cover to the point where it started to look somewhat polished in about 1 hour. The only problem was that my cover has hairline cracks in it or corrosion cracks of some sort, so I stopped (since the car is coming apart). Don't use pressure and axial force on a good drill press, unless you like having one that doesn't drill straight after.

Did i mention how much i hate this engine? I have to vent the friggen A/C to get to the head. :-/

those look great. you should just ask your employer if you can run a couple of them. also, could i suggest having some with a thin scribe about 1/8th to 3/16th away from the outter egdge so that they can be painted in with black to make them stand out, as an option of course! awesome stuff.

no it had a greddy unit, it was mentioned in a for-sale ad from an importation website

i know rb25 and 26 covers are interchangeable, because i've seen it.

tighter crank case, smaller rod/crank package = less rigidity. better chalk that RB26DETT to 680rwhp on factory internals, as proven by Boozt3d.

just found this site. may be of great use to a lot of us. http://nissan4u.com/

I'm reinstalling it again now with different settings (that was just temporary), so that I can cross reference with other cars.

here you are

hahahahahahaha maybe you should post on the "oversteer" thread on VW Vortex.

glad everything's ok. sounds like Richard knows his stuff, and Vpro is pretty common place here in Toronto too. I know at least two tuners who are pretty reliable and consistent with their HKS systems.

woah woah woah... ... you put it into the guard rail?

I have to pull the heads off my VG30ET because the manifold studs broke off in there and won't come out (been trying with various methods for 2 weeks!). I F'n hate working on this motor in the Z31. it's just too hard to work around with my wide hands. Just getting at the block-coolant drain plugs took me an hour for the passenger side and 30 minutes for the turbo side. This is ridiculous. I considered the VG33 to just take everything off and put onto, but I don't think I have the room to do such a thing.

Sorry, but... what? most domed pistons would do that. the domes are angled or relief cut to avoid PTV contact. anyway, have you considered measuring your current head's chamber volume with the intended spark plugs, and then finding out the other parameters/variables required to make an accurate calculation of attained compression with various combos of pistons? I know the L-Engine program does this, but heads and blocks vary to casting... so you may wanna check on that. I think with 12:1 or 13.5:1 you would be safe incase u get a horrible mix of ethanol somehow. in that case you may want to run a J&S Safeguard too.

Awesome build, but is the new 72mm going to be that much different than the one you had? "spool characteristics"... too laggy? how is the new turbo going to solve that by a big enough margin to make you happy. At most it seems like a few hundred RPM. It's still gonna be a lag monster.

There's rust at the hood-pin washer's seating surface. SCRAP DA KYAAAAAAAAR!

lol, sorry stony

*drooooooool* *napkin whipe*

you and me, baby, ain't nuffin but mammals... Who's more perverted, the insects doin it, or the one watchin?!

to be quite honest i'm not even that happy with them.