Careless

that doesn't sound right for the ARP. Mine were boxed with a small piece of paper (or was that my spool rods?!)

My 76 had the same problem. I opened the pump, bought some new o-rings that fit best (can't find the teardrop shape, and they aren't available separately from nissan). I then put 600grit wet sandpaper on an old window I had laying around, and figure'8'ed the face of the pump spacer until both sides were smooth. Then I took the small pump gear and the 5 dowels within the pump and sanded them until they were shiney (they had carbon all over). Run a bit of gasoline through the pump for about 5 minutes without the top on. Then use an air gun from the TOP of the cap of the pump (the spout/output side) and blow air through the spout to shoot all the dust and particles back out, as there's a small filter I had trouble getting out of there. Then put it back together with allen head or bolt head screws, not standard screws or the ones that come with the unit. If they're a little shorter it's ok just take the entire unit with you to the store.

I was going to say if it cost 100 bucks, that wouldn't be a huge impact on the wallet. I mean... we ARE installing a completely different IRS. 100 bucks is hardly a nickel's worth in that sense. 65 bucks sounds even better. Mull, what bar stock did you use, if you don't mind divulging that info…

Understood, but to save people from getting idea's, I'm going to PM you some info.

LOL. it's not a huge ordeal. My roommate got a drill and drove through the cylinder in about a minute. if you mean bump-key, i've already done that before. not gonna say when and where, but I wasnt home in time to do it to the garage. LOL. It's funny how the locks made with harder metal are easier to break into now. LOL

boooo!

no worries, it's just "non-rusty metal" envy.

It's a good thing I haven't bought my tensioners or tensioner studs yet. do you know which ARP number I'm looking for when matching this tensioner stud? Or can i bring it to Brafasco and have them match me a set of studs that are as strong as ARP's?

hey 260zman, i think i like yours as the best solution so far. you just cut the ends off and put some tubing on the ends to offset the bolting points?

you can't be serious. it's been posted 3 or 4 times. LOL. EDIT: specifically by resident user "stony", at one point.

not to mention that different ambient temps after the room has been heated by a glowing manifold, slight loss of traction on the rollers due to the first runs being on cold tires, alot of other B.S. they try to take out of the ad tests. There are just too many variables that are used in these tests to warrant any concrete reason to switch over to a 30 dollar plug. It's rediculous.

Understood, but its a moot point because anyone could pawn off any lemon, whether it's an L28 or a VRH35L. lol pirate87, I don't know where you're seeing RB20 motorsets for 400, or even 800. They're usually 1000 bucks. I think for 1000 bucks, a nice turbo and inter cooler with home made piping could be a better deal, and the L28 can take it.

Not sure what that's supposed to imply, as the RB engines in any sense are built similar to the rest of their family. Sure the crank journals are like 4mm smaller (which is quite a difference) but the design itself wouldn't mean that all RB20's are known to spit out bearings. You'd have to look at any engine thoroughly before buying. That being said, forget the RB20 at this point. If it were a more complete package it would be a fun undertaking. This is just going to cause you headaches!

But one would need to upgrade to a large single to make 500 on a RB25 if you say an RB26 twin turbo setup surely cannot make that sort of power as well. fentin_fury is running modified standard equipment R34 twin turbos (right?) and makes 470 whp or so. that's pretty close to 500. I can't see an RB25 reaching 500 any quicker than an RB26 would. The only thing is the extra 2000 it would cost to start with the RB26. I'd say its a toss up. with the RB26 just having initial cost on the plus side. the rest is really up to the direction the builder wants to take... RB25 transmission + RB20 pan. For cost savings, i'd go RB25 due to initial cost and headache of procuring a transmission or bellhousing for a reasonable price.

But one would need to upgrade to a large single to make 500 on a RB25 if you say an RB26 twin turbo setup surely cannot make that sort of power as well. fentin_fury is running modified standard equipment R34 twin turbos (right?) and makes 470 whp or so. that's pretty close to 500. I can't see an RB25 reaching 500 any quicker than an RB26 would. The only thing is the extra 2000 it would cost to start with the RB26. I'd say its a toss up. with the RB26 just having initial cost on the plus side. the rest is really up to the direction the builder wants to take... RB25 transmission + RB20 pan. For cost savings, i'd go RB25 due to initial cost and headache of procuring a transmission or bellhousing for a reasonable price.

I always thought it would be effective for getting the exhaust side nice and smooth AFTER it's been handled by a human being or a cnc machine. All it does it enlarger or smooth the ports, depending on the grit. What good is that if you're trying to maintain velocity anyway? I think it only makes sense on the exhaust side, to get it nice and shiney.

speaking of the opposite of those. we lost the garage door key a long time ago. And the remote opener is no where to be found. and over the weekend while i was away, someone had twisted the lock on the inside of the door and closed it, and then closed the garage door using the wall mounted push button. long and short: my z is locked in a garage, along with everything else I own with any sort of value.

in the pictures posted above (the big ones!) it has a V belt groove and a ribbed belt groove. So that's water pump and alternator.

Those look like paintings. Have you been using curves???

http://pulstarplug.blogspot.com/ see march 11 of their blog for more test results.

This was was a video that was made for Chrysler (i think) to have the mechanics belt out a laugh during formal training. Atleast that's what I was told.

take the car and get rid of the body at the scrappers once you're done with picking the parts. 900 is a steal of a deal, boy-0h!

beaut! EDIT: and I also now hate you, with as much HybridZ love I can possibly give.

I realize that fully. But what I was trying to get at is the fact that we're all here to help, and sometimes I find some people are greedy in nature and tend to have pertinent information and withhold it even though it's not going to be any sweat off their backs. I mean, it's sorta like "been there, done that". A bit of direction never hurt no body! What I; as a faithful user, devotee, and paying supporter of hybridz would like from others on this community is some devotion to helping out a fellow comrade along the way, even if it's just something small... like a part number or a price. And I do see that. Which is great! But I also see some hesistation for reasons unknown... And I'm trying not to judge, but sometimes it's just fishy. I mean, we're all capable of helping out... I'm sure many other people are capable of doing things in the same capacity as most everyone. And I'd generally like to see it happen. I love when I come across solutions to things that I know I will run into in the future of my build. As a personal example: I found that nissan stanza power window motors may just be the answer for us S30 guys, and that prompted about 3 or 4 other examples of how to make it work- thus widening the database of possible solutions to a small issue/problem people have with their manual windows. I'd like to make this post an encouragement to people who know some things that could solve a LOT of searching for people, such as the above. I don't think that's asking too much of the Z guys! There are a bunch of amazing projects on here, someone's gotta have a trick they wouldn't mind sharing and gloating about

100% agreed. I thought someone had a seizure and wrecked a Z (and themselves) while at the wheel. Not a pretty visual. I think "LOCK UP" is a better word than seizure.