Careless

will the auto RB20 bells bolt up to 5spd KA or SR trans?

with all that fine china and the budgie cage, I'd assume you lived with someone's grandma, scotty! Your car looks nice! Can't wait to see the RB30 build from the kitchen-cam. LOL

Hi Brian, Thanks for the update on your fuse issue =) I found that a lot of people wire devices into the same power wire as the defroster or devices that pull a lot of amps, and then add more draw to the same circuit, thus blowing fuses or wires all the time, so I've been in the same situation recently with a friend's rad-fan switch that I've fixed for him in a similar way to what you've done (ran an inline bus-fuse straight to the batt, and to the relay that powers the illuminated switch). However, another suggestion... And I'm not sure if it changes anything, but have you determined the amperage that each device hooked up to each fuse is supposed to be drawing? Just curious, as some of the ones hooked on 10amps might need those fuses to pop sooner to avoid damage to the device or the wires that lead into the device, which will also act as their own fuses. Cross referencing to the FSM or the original fuse boxes printed rating may make this easier. I'm glad it worked out. How is it running?

I finally got the FSM, did the headgasket swap, and the 4th cylinder piston ring is pooched, so it's leaking still. But the valve seals are replaced and they are not leaking anymore (they literally slid off). So the car still gets to 130 km/h, but with 3 cylinders, and it pops and purges smoke and oil through the exhaust at times. 11 hours straight of removing, re-timing, re-sealing, re-vacuum-lining, and re-torquing the head, + 2 hours of trouble shooting. When taking the head off, we noticed that the timing was advanced on the crank by 1 tooth. So I reset it back to factory spec and it didn't hold an idle well. So I just put it back to what I saw it at when we took it apart, and it worked like it did before. The 4th Cylinder valve was DISGUSTING. Literally baked with carbon deposits. for 200 bucks, it wasn't a bad experience, and it got my buddy to work. he works 2 days and gets the 200 back, and HE has never done a head swap before, so it was a worthwhile experience for him. I'll probably be completely rebuilding a micra 1.2 litre, and mega-squirting it. That would be extremely fun, but he doesn't wanna spend too much. Cheers everyone, Raff

Definitely one of my fav pics in this thread. I'm glad told'ja so! that's odd, are you sure it's not a "custom setting", those that are numbered and use a second digit to determine which setting you're on? I can look further into it, but I'll assume you did a lot of research on that one. You'll get used to it. Perhaps curling your pinky will allow even more stability. I actually shoot like that and I don't have large hands I find with my elbows against my hips, and my pinky under the camera, I become the human bi-pod. Or tri-pod, when in the nude. That sounds like a poor design change from Nikon. Why mess with a good thing, they CF door was fine. They probably could have used the CF door to house everything else seeing as it's got a smaller flash card now. BOO Nikon! Now that.... would piss me off royally. It's almost as bad as Nintendo changing the button layout for each of their systems every single time they get released. A + B were fine there's always a D300 to move on up to I feel ya, bud! As much as I like flash for its advantages in certain conditions, I always find myself shooting without it. Even in low light conditions. It just gives off a better ambience than a direct flash or a diffused glow would do. IF I WERE to get a flash with the camera I don't yet have, I would use it to take doubles and use the highlights in the flash for post processing of the image. For an enthusiast photographer, it's probably not needed, as it would suck a lot of juice from the camera (unless you lug around a quantum battery pack... and they hang close to your nutts, and you can FEEL the buzzing coming from them). Send me some pics in JPEG or RAW tonight or something, and I'll try and post processes them and write my steps down in a PDF if you're ok with that.

so you're ditching the 2.0 and going with the 2.5 ?

what kind of pump do you have? it sounds like you have an electric carb pump or something. why not get a pump from another 6 cylinder or another car that can supply about 50 psi.

paint the hood, go over some misc bolts and tighten what you can, and replace those blocks of wood with something to hold the grille on better, and just drive the sucker!

so is this dorman aftermarket part equivalent to that of the factory issued rad fan setup? does it perform the same or is it "like" the original? cause this is 125 bucks!

I can get it if I got the part number.

compared to?

I don't really have a hook up for you, but i'd like to see your portfolio, and offer any suggestions or compliments if that's fine =) (Graphic Designer)

This board is for Datsun and Nissan Z cars. Get'chur phoney Datuns outta here! (congrats, welcome to first class)

what kind of power you intend to make? that sounds like a nice setup, and the inexpensive purchase of those carbs will make it all the better. nice catch

The problem is that 3 or 4 years ago, gas was $0.65 cents a litre here in canada, and today it's $1.10. Gas was at a stand still for the last 20 years and all of a sudden its worth twice as much. It's just fishy. But then again, I don't drive. LOLOLOL

i think we discussed this before as well. Larry @ Endyne said that might be a viable approach, and it should work. It would make sense to just radius them now. If it starts to detonate at high output, you would have to change the pistons you bought. step by step When she gettin all back together? And Paul @ Neetronics said your car gave him nightmares. Raff

that's a great part Justin. your work really will go a long way for a lot of other people, time and time again (what is this, the 3rd part you've offered up?) if i was building my L, i would buy one in the blink of me eye.

so would this run in monostable or a-stable... im trying to make sense of the circuit i researched when trying to design my own turbo timer =)

if today was "opposite day"... my answer would be DEFINITELY. It's a good measure to keep the wire from backing out. just don't over do it, or you will have problems feeding them in, or making a clean removal of the crimp if needed. Some pins are plated with 2k gold in some cases. You don't want to really heat those up too much. you're right. weatherpaks are tested and proven technology by todays standards. I like to find floor panel connector from nissans. A Nissan Stanza i junked had a 16 pin connector that was weather sealed and ran along the inside of the rocker just under the carpet. I figure if it's there, and its sealed, it would be protected against water from the winter... The pins were relatively easy to remove, and some of them were un-crimped and re-crimped carefully with a mini screwdriver, and some were soldered from a pigtail... it works very well and I wouldn't hesitate to use that on anything. It is also similar to another connector I found in the engine bay, so I'm sure its heat-resistant to a point. I went to Princess Auto's clearance section and found trailer hitch packs for 2 bucks a pop that had 4 weather pack connectors each as part of the kit, so I stripped them of their inventory. LOL

especially since people tuning the same cars to produce considerably better downforce by todays standards are employing entirely different aero tech into new designs of old cars. a friend was in my garage the other day and said "this is a 76? but look at it... it's so aerodynamic!" to which i replied "aerobatic, maybe. it could probably do a backflp if if i made it try hard enough"

and don't forget to tell mike about the quench pad problem. you'll be making well over 600hp this time, so it will be a requirement if you want those pistons to stay in one piece maybe direct him to this thread or some of the ones on the board.... pdf and print them too? Looking forward to the finished product.

Glad to see this, Q. Do you know someone who flow benches in Ontario for a good price? I'd like to document the flow numbers when my head arrives, as I'll be attempting my own head work. Is this Mike's work? Raff

Hmmmm... With all this trouble, I may just ask my dad to build a working unit. LOL. =)

Yes, they were sold across Canadian dealerships. They came with the burley 1.0 MA10S and then the gargantuan 1.2 MA12S. this particular Micra had 86,000 km on the odo, and had the timing belt replaced at 50,000 for some reason. I'm not sure if we should do the timing belt once more, however, we will be using the sentra service manual, and getting our torque values from there. I can't even find a haynes book for this thing, they were only published in the UK, I believe. But I really only need it for the cam cap bolts, as the head bolt values are in the owners manual (I guess nissan figured that it was all a person would need to replace their headgasket, if they chose to do it on their own). It's the Nissan March or the March R Plasma SuperTurbo that you're probably surprised about, and in the K10 time-line, they were the same car. Pics of before, during, and after process to come. Raff.

• different spring-rate, but I've read of people using GTR springs in RB25 motors. • valves are sodium filled on exhaust side. • RB25 head has VCT in some cases, which is variable cam timing. It's identifiable by the VCT Solenoid Connector that is in line with the head of the cam at the front/side of the head • That means the cams are different. • 11mm head bolt for 25, 12mm head bolt for 26. There are some FSM's floating around that have the information for the 20, 25, and 26, and there is also the head spec portion of said FSM. They will tell you the valve head diameter and spring pressure. I believe the ports are much better shaped in the 26, and only require reshaping the bowls, and smoothening the exhausts to be a very high flowing head, just short of enlarging everything. Sounds like you want to build an RB30 block.