Careless

here's a vehicle wrap I designed with my current employer for the Integrated Automotive Group (look 'em up!). We did the design only. The wrap is almost as much, or about 80% of the price of a standard factory colour paint job if it's high quality and form-fit to within 1/4 inch or so of all gaps and curves... It looks much better in person. You'd be hard pressed to find someone who has a Datsun 280z die-line though... but I know most high-quality wrap producers (not rap producers!) have a book or cd on file that they copy stuff from (actually.. that sounds a lot like rap producers too... )

Hey ron what did u find dissappointing... and now that you got a nice lense, have you considered a nice flash? SB600? I think you and I need to chat about flash sync to get some great effects.

how would we get them there. LOL. do you have any ppl that would like to purchase them in quebec? If so, I'll keep 3 here, and you keep 3 there.

LOL @ the comments made by people thinking it's a video game. that thing is a monster. i think i'm gonna wet the bed tonight.... twice

Hey guys, as jdizzy said, you might be better off getting the two RB30's from him. We just got a HUGE snowfall here, and some renovations that we're doing are gonna be put off for a while, as well as my tax return coming in... I'm not holding my breathe It might be closer to summer for the RB30's. I can't even get into my garage right now, that's how bad it is. LOL. jdizzy's blocks are the same price, and if you're in the US, it will be cheaper for you guys anyway. Raff.

that looks like a FS5W17C because of where the bell housing attaches to the transmission.. are you putting a lot of power through this thing? more than 400? If so, you might want to look at the FS5R30A. if you go with the 200sx transmission, you need a RB20 bell housing... that will be hard for you to find. I think you can bolt up the KA24 bell housing but one ore two bolts don't line up. then again, you don't get the 2.4 litre there... so RB20 is your best bet. If you find it hard to get the RB20 bellhousing the best thing to do is buy the complete unit, and get rid of the transmission. then use the RB20 bell housing with the most common transmission (i think for you, it will be SR20 or CA18 Transmission), because they are a tad longer or short even though the internals for the W17C models are the same... so if you stick with the one that is more common, you can make your driveshaft to that size. If it blows, buy it again and swap the bell housing again. If you buy a RB20 transmission, and blow it up, and then you buy an SR20 unit and swap the bell housings, you will find that the SR20 one is a diffferent size, so your driveshaft will not be correct. I'm not sure how much difference, perhaps an inch or so (chassis are different lengths, so they made the gear case a little different to match up to the shifter hole properly) easiest way to save money in the long run. but if you really want to save money, get a stronger FS5R30A and be done with =) If you don't understand anything, point it out and i'll try to explain a little better.

i dont like. but just go enjoy it man, F the paint.

the Motul R34 is amazing in that the 4.5 litre engine sits so far back, and it just looks plain badass. a lot was taken from this car and remodeled for the z-tune edition. I think the reason why the hood is multi-slotted is due to the fact that the added surface area of the slots will create more friction, so in a hard turn, there is more area for the exiting air to grip onto and create some sort of resistance/friction. I'm sure it helps at least enough to keep the nose down or from getting squirrelly due to the position of the engine.

understandable. you should be looking for a 200sx or something that has a RWD SR20. • you can use the RB20 bell housing with the FS5W17C transmission that comes on S13's with both all engines; KA24, SR20, CA18, and R32's with RB20's. • you can use the RB25 or RB26 bell housing with the FS5R30A transmission that comes on the 87 Z31 Turbo, and the RB25 and RB26 equipped Skylines. • RB20 bellhousing will not fit on a FS5R30A transmission, and RB25/26 bellhousing will not bolt upto the FS5W17C transmission. • Some use push, some use pull style clutch. Modifications can be done to use either.

to be honest, nothing special about a 1JZ, 2JZ, or RB engine in a z. They are all great engines, but if you want shock value, stuff a VQ or a 3-rotor in there. I think the 1/2JZ and RB25/26/30 are cooler, but it depends on who you're trying to shock.

I think you're lying. But any RB Tranny will bolt up to any RB. The Transmission you're looking for is the FS5R30A, which can be found in the 87-89 Z31 Turbo Coupes, the Z32's, and RB25/26's, except for the 26 you'll have to remove the front prop shafts and seal off the diff housing. Also, you have to have a bell housing from an RB25 or 26 to make it work. Good luck. This has been covered, and you can read more in detail by searching more thoroughly... I know that is a fact because I've posted in many other threads that ppl have started on regarding the same topic. There is even a walk through thread on how to do it. Raff

Hmmm... does he post here at all anymore? the name sounds familiar... like i know it's a common name but i can see it in the sidebar right now. LOL

great domain name to go with a great build!

It hasnt been done as far as I know. TB48DE isn't old. but it isn't new. TB42 was carburetted, and a lot cheaper to find. I like how they're huge and DOHC

And you are right. I know of that site, and I've not yet searched odds and ends, but for now what I'm doing is taking pictures of my parts that I've bought. I've got well over 240 pictures, each with different angles of each part. Water Pump Pulley, Crank Balancers, Bolts, Washers, Dowels, Pins, Bushings... a bunch of stuff to freshen the RB blocks up if going from ground zero to fully built. I'm taking my notes as to how many I'm using per engine, so that I can put together a kit if anyone would like them. This won't happen for a while. The website is taking priority over a bunch of other things. I'm just having trouble deciding on what logo to use to brand my pictures from what theft that other sites may commit.

i meant to say, my friends 944 head has the cam gears in the middle.

call some places and see if they have some blown RB25's. sometimes you come across shops that think they tested them well before shipping but some turn out to be duds, or some ppl return them and get other ones with better compression.

I think jitts has his own contacts for RB25 heads. If you want me to source one, you're going to have to wait for more than a year. LOL, as I have for my blown 26 engine. =(

well fuel rails cost about 200. I think if you intend to keep it relatively stock or about 400 or so hp, you wouldn't need a 200 dollar fuel rail, and the 50 dollar fitting could save you 150+ dollars for something else to GET you to the 400hp mark. no? im using 400hp as a baseline for what ppl say most of the stock RB26 parts are reliable at before any need changing.

Hi Gents, I've started to edit some of the pics for the part numbers that I have. And I've sent the link to someone else for some feedback (Shhhhh!, you!) so I'll be cleaning up and watermarking the pics so they look nice and presentable, and then I will post the part numbers as well as where they go. They will be posted on one of my websites so you guys can access it easily and purchase parts that you need through your nissan dealer by using the provided part numbers. I hope this helps you guys find parts that you need. I cannot guarantee that everything will fit, because I have yet to put my engine together, and because it is a weird combo (RB30/26), so some parts are from here, some are from there... and some are aftermarket. Hope to make some good progress this week. Cheers, Raff

lol come on man. next time you unclip a connector to solve a problem, just fill it with a packet of dielectric grease. what's the big deal. LOL

lol of course not man. you posted some great info with pictures. what's more to do? I know of the chapparal, it's mentioned in a book I've glanced over regarding aero. I didn't know they were snowmobile engines though. As I said though, and I italicized the word... The rad fans I commented on do not provide down force, they help to retain, or aid in relieving some of the resistance to down force caused by say... hot air expanding in a hood with no ventilation. I see it as the same method to the madness of all those people drilling holes in their rear bumper covers to aid in free flow of trapped air. it makes sense... the bumper acts as a cup that will redirect air flowing under the car and trap it... creating a sort of parachute. Putting holes there allows that air to flow through faster. I'm curious to know if running some plastic tubes through the passenger compartment from areas of high pressure in the engine bay would relieve some of the lift-inducing air that is trapped under there. Not even fan assisted tubes... just regular 3 or 4 inches tubes. Is there something you've come across as such? I guess it falls under "ducting" but this is a little more 'out there'...

lemme check the FSM an Haynes. brb. 0oo0o0 you're lucky I got a scanner here too. EDIT: Hey man, I can't find this heater core in the AC/Heater section. It makes no mention. =/ weird.

and the RB, showing up first in holdens and R31's. now everyone wants one . LOL

hahahahahaa, YESSSSS. heck, we could get another and give J's s10 a little sump'n sump'n.