Careless

nice, can't wait to see it back in action =)

that's the first time i've seen the swirl effect applied to a plenum. something new! *high 5*

300ish hp with a stockish weight 280z will net you high 11 second run or there-abouts. 2000 lbs and 240hp + mods will net you a mid to low 10 second run, i'd bet.

I'll admit, Dan Juday makes an excellent point. *stares at z*

This works for SOME parts, not all... which is obvious. in most cases, if there were 3 heads, all which use say.... the same timing belt, the part number would be that of the first revision, which would or would not change depending on whatever the hell nissan likes to do to their parts numbering system. If you REALLY need a part, this is not a bad way of finding if it's available to you, but always check another source if you're gonna plonk down some dough.

Hey guys, I've just noticed something, perhaps its not anything new to most of you... on the side of the RB head, 25 and 26, exhaust side, just behind the cam cover, over the 1st exhaust port from the front of the engine, there is a casting. on RB26's from R32 to 33, I believe it is a "05U" can someone confirm that their RB25 head has a "42L" ? this would confirm that most part numbers can be bought without knowing the actual part number itself, but by knowing the pre-face number for which section it falls under. A break down of parts numbers from nissan (simple one, anyway) is as follows: XXXXX-05U00 = RB26 parts - both late R32 and R33 parts XXXXX-42L00 = RB25 parts as an example, typing in "main bearing" at courtesy parts shows me a preface number 12207. Looking in the ACL and Kings Bearings cross reference guides, I come across a 12207-05U00 being an RB26 part, and the 12207-42L00 being a RB25 part. I noticed because of the engine for sale in the thread below, there was an "05U" casted onto the side of the head, and it reminded me of most of the part numbers I went through when putting together my mass-parts collection for refreshing my block (which I still have to take pictures of for you guys). I'm guessing at the 42L part, but I'm 99.9% sure it's on the RB25 heads somewhere, or perhaps an RB26 head somewhere if i'm mistaken, but I know that's a number indeed =) So if Nissan is giving you a hard time, ask them for a part-number from a Z31 or Z32, and then switch the suffix number for your specific number that you know you have. Then pay upfront, or they won't order it for you What I like to do is ask them if they can get a Z32 part, and see if they can turn the screen around so you can see the part on-screen, and then whilst the screen is in both your views (yours and the parts rep.), you ask him to change the numbers at the end. This way, you can see what parts show, and you can tell if he or she is lying when they say "I can't get that part" because the "Availability" will be shown in either a "yes/no", and indication of "weeks", or a "quantity".

Right now what I'm doing is getting my engine together enough so that I know where everything needs to go, then in the spring, I'm going to sandblast the entire shell and mount the front and rear suspension, and then make mounts for my engine once those are within close to final positions. I thought about doing one before the other, but you really can't because you gotta account for various things using both parts at the same time. my 2 pennies.

No problem. the plugs (connectors) are different on the RB25's than they are on the RB26. And I think you can use a Z32 ignitor if you have to. Boozt3d wrote a DIY thread that should get you up and running using the Z32 ignitor =). Raff

should look nice with the bumper on it! what's the difference between this and the other more common ones?

is it common for Z31's to make a clicky sound when closing the door? the striker area of my door jamb is really flimsy and if i take the striker and rock it back and forth a bit, it makes little clicky sounds and the paint in that area is a tad flakey, but theres no rust. =/

whattttttttttttttt the flux core... i'm just gonna shut up and watch.

oh shizz, i really should read a bit better. LOL didn't see you replaced the coils.

i think you gotta do some cutting to fit the R230 diff into the R200 subframe cradle. There was a thread about it on here, specifically. It has to do with 240sx IRS swap. so if you can find it the info should be there.

sorry guys, the link is here http://www.motorsport-wiring.com/images/slideshow/viper1.jpg

Thanks guys. I had found one site that had them available, I just didn't print the part numbers to PDF at the time, so I lost it for good (among a bunch of other useful wiring sites during that crash). I see that they're using those Raychem mil-spec wound wire bundles. But I wonder where they get those very snazzy "T" lines. the ones that join at a double-90'. Any idea what those are called? I was going to just use the CPC Flange mounted cannon plug, but then I decided I will find a flange mounted metal housing with a sealing-oring for a more worthwhile application. Might cost like 80 bucks for a friggen connector and two back halves to allow some flexing. (engine vibes) Thanks doods =)

the turbo fall off thing you speak of, Z2000, is not all that prevalent in cars that are made to operate in the same classes or to compete against eachother, most of the time. Or the ones that are well built for the purpose of making it easier on the driver rather than making the most power. I think the fall off is associated with higher boost levels and lack of compression to provide off-boost torque. But one thing a lot of people assume with turbocharged engines is lag. I can tell you that there are plenty of well put together engine systems that have virtually no lag and no fall off and are not on and off like a lightswitch. they are very linear in the way they make power, and if not for the releasing of all that pressure, you would not notice the turbocharger in any sense. most of the N/A engines making 300 hp that are competing with 400 hp turbo engines have much less weight, and much lower ambient temperatures, which result in cooler intake air and underhood/operating temps. Which in today's performance car market (s2000, 350z, RX8, camaro, mustang), is an important thing, as a lot of people are considering turbocharged performance to be a band-aid, unless one could prove that the engine makes a venerable contender without the addition of all that gadgetry (i.e- more things to go wrong if something breaks, too!). That whole "boost-scare" thing is cool for about 10 minutes, until you realize that you might not go into boost for the better half of the life of the car because you're not sure what's going to happen. I think that's also cool, but also a waste of money. Bring on the F22-Z =)

that looks pretty nice too! would like to see the rear arches higher up than the front ones, but it's a unique design, through and through!

Hmmm, can't help you there. I have an idea though! I remember there being a thread about the new balancers for the L28, and perhaps you can find it in the Group Buy section. Message some folks who purchased them through the thread, or buy a new one. Come on, give her some love

yeah the F20 seems to be a worthy contender with both the N/A 510 and AE86 crowd recently. Definately a worthy contender if considering the SR20. I would probably do it over the SR20 just to have the satisfaction that it's something you don't see every day and is just as well comparable to the SR20.

I wouldn't chance it. Do you think that if you could move it by hand a little bit, that the vibrations which the harmonic balancer is supposed to absorb in order to dampen are not going to crack what little glue you put on there? If you DO do it, I woulnd't drive it much, or drive it hard. And you should probably order the damper as you are reading this post if you want to get started.

anyone know where to get the connectors, T lines, and wiring accessories that these guys use? http://www.motorsport-wiring.com/ Mil-spec CPC Connectors are to wires as AN fittings are to hoses. anyone have any links? distributors that sell to public? I want to panel mount my EFI Harness if at all possible. Un-hook one big block, and the entire engine comes out.

it is your EFI relay. it is two relays in one, correct? It says JEC'S On it in blue or green lettering? It's supposed to click.

As far as the guy from EZ-wire told me, most of the wires are for interior harness/chassis harness electrical, so the actually have a separate EFI harness that you can buy if you email and ask them. It's an S1000 or something. and someone has used it (according to him) to run an SR20 with an aftermarket or stock computer. The EFI wiring should be done separately and you can snip whatever runs through both and is replaced with the EZ wire. I think at most you will need power, ground, and tach signal to the ECU. Tach I would probably use a butt-connector or something that can be separated easily. And for the power and ground, I thought about using a high-guage, high-amperage MIL-SPEC CPC Connector. You can get them in high voltage 2 prong. Twist them together, and they stay put for good. They are used in space shuttles, so it could get costly doing it for every connection, but one good connector for power and ground will cost you like 20 bucks. I think it's a good idea if you want to make them modular. Infact, you could run an inline fuse and have one mounted to the firewall too, they have panel mounts =)

that is pretty ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ sexy

Heck, even my 87 doesn't have that much rust. but a friends 50th AE is a little rusty, and another acquaintances 50th AE had the seat LITERALLY fall through the floor at a slow speed. I think they started to coat them a little better after the 50th AE, in order to make a good, clean 50th AE a lot harder to find. LOLOLOL