Careless

but was it worth the cost savings?

for a high boost setup 1.5 times the volume of the engine is supposedly ideal, or good enough if supplying all the cylinders. then again, some of the lower profile ITB Race V8's that I've seen look like they'd fit about 2 litres of fluid and are supplying high revving 2.5 or 3.5 litre engines if I'm not mistaken. but it could just be a visual anomaly that makes it look smaller than it actually is. Did you find out max torque/hp in dyno2003

http://inconelracing.com/ seems to have somthing coming up :/

HA! I had a feeling it'd be like a power window motor! It has a cable system and a sealed tube. if the increased width of the powerband actually is improved vastly, then this may be worthwhile... because that looks heavy. F**K IT, IM DOIN' IT!

LoL. I'd like for you to visit my Z31 at my parents house when you're down here for the engine. I'll send you and scotty pics first. There are others that also asked for em, but seeing as you'll take the one with the casting slump aswell, i'd be more inclined to sell to you cause getting it sold was part of the deal for me getting the other block. Raff

looks like it's for the water pump, correct? looks a lot smaller than my romac :/

Nice! so I take it that the modification is to grind out the little plastic ball end so that it doesn't split like a soda cracker? How much was shipping for you anyway? Are these the same modifications that have to be done to the FC5W17C shifters too!? Thanks for the snap-ring plier heads up (hows your poly suspension?... good stuff? worth money?)

I was talking to my father about this, in regards to what would be better... electronic slide rail, electronic screw drive, or mechanical lever action. But I didn't think about the vacuum extension. the problem with the electronic input/ouput is that it has to use TPS or current RPM to determine where it is, and where it should be in its extension. The problem with mechanical lever action is that it's based on pedal position and not engine rotation, which defeats the purpose. The problem with vacuum as i see it, is trying to find a suitable vacuum unit that could do such a thing, and quick enough. Sealing wouldn't be an issue, i'm sure there's a pliable rubber sock that could be oiled and squeezed onto the throttles that would allow it to move enough. How would you do it using vacuum? Raff

22698-05U10 works for both RB25 and RB26 perhaps because they have low impedance injectors. RB20 would then use High Impedance, because I also did a search for "RESISTOR" and I found RESISTOR-DROPPING, but it didn't cross on the RB20 at all. And it does not cross with anything in the US either.

i think it's like 10 bucks a foot for -6 AN and 12 bucks a foot for -8 AN. aftermarket pre-drilled and ready to go are around 200 + AUD

and it says "what z is all about" :| dude... this is like... sooooo wangan midnight.

it's the sump and the differential as well as the output shaft location that you're gonna have a tough time playing with. Might as well go AWD at that point. LOL

does anyone need a legit part number for this thing.... or?

hahahahaha. right on don't spend all your money on it though... IT WILL find a place for your money.

the reason they're telling you that is because they buy RB26's, sell them with RB25 transmissions, and have to do something with the RB26 transmissions. cutting off the front sump/diff casing works... but its a hack job. All 5 speed skyline transmissions mated to 2.5 or 2.6 litre that did not come in a R34 should be an FS5R30A. They are, apparently, the strongest transmissions Nissan made. On top of that.. don't deal with people that have stupid screen names like lowlifekustomz. If the name wasn't an indication of how childish they sound, then you won't see the reason why companies that have legit business names and try to protect their branding charge a little more... because they deserve to after building up a name for themselves that's based on quality. (sorry if that sounded condescending, but I'm just speaking from experience based on most people I've had to unpleasantly deal with that all sounded the same from the get-go) i say f**k em.

Hi Pr0x. If i may make a suggestion regarding chosen RPM/tuned frequency. I used a program called Dyno2003 (PM me if u need it), and I input the parameters as close to my engine setup as possible (RB30/26). Within the programs out-of-the-box settings, there seems to be a multitude of L Datsun engine setups that you could try. Add a turbo in the forced induction section, and it will give you a close indication of what the final output horsepower would be... give or take 20 or so (can never be too sure... real world differs immensely at times). It also shows you torque output. Both in the form of a dyno graph. I would then find out what place the most horsepower is being made and tune it for 500 to 1000 rpm before that sweet spot, so you can dig some grunt out from under power-band to get you back in there faster or provide a bit more response leading up-to that point. Not sure if that would help in any way, but it's better than just a shot in the dark with the 5000 rpm flat spot assumption. There are a lot of N/A L's that make power well above that.

is that your fuel rail you plan on drilling and welding? BRAAAP's got a source for cheap fuel rail stock. grab some and bring the short manifold to a machine shop and have them spot drill for you. would be cheaper than factory oem rails.

you... me... we gotta talk about z31 RB's.

what sucked about it?

=) You and I, both. There's many ways to save money... That's why I'm sure it would not cost 15k for a bone stock swap. especially since if I were limited with cash (or actually gave myself a budget. LOLOLOL), I would go with an RB25, and add some healthy turbos and downpipes and make more power. but who needs turbozo's

lol. it's available, but it's not the one. THE ONE everyone wants has been photographed and sent to my email. I'm typing this from my iPod Touch, so I can't send you the pictures just now. Anyway, the fairly good block is only rusted from sitting outside. The oil pan is still on there and everything but the head and all the external parts are not included. It's gonna need a hot tanking FOR SURE, and a bore/hone... so get some oversized pistons if you want it. I'll send the pics later, I'm going to pick up my Z31 in this shittay weather. Any more questions about the block, please PM me.

There's only one RB30 available... and there are 4 people that have asked me for it. I have my other RB30 that had a slump in the main skirt casting. I think it would still be good, but I'm not the type to chance it. I got pics sent today, but they were linked to the sender's web-mail, and not attached directly... so I can't see them. LOL

cool... ill put those on my dad's wallpaper, and he'll be like "What the hell! How do you remove this?! RAFF SOMEONE.... HE'SA DRIVING A CAR ON'A MY SCREENIE!"

well.. he wouldn't get too far when searching for "faros" if he needs more info.

So the Z32 FS5R30A is different enough that the turbo short shifters that I see don't quite work on Z31's. Apparently the FS5W17 short shifters can be modified to be used... WHAT MODIFICATIONS are they. I've searched through most of the threads on the z31 sites, and all I find are "they need modifications" and stuff like that. If someone has used one, please let me know. MSA Has a special on a short shifter, linked here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PRC02A/20-1055 has anyone had good experiences with this particular model? How substantially is the throw decreased? Everyone says "get the B&M" but the 240sx B&M's had a whining issue, and I'd rather not have that in the car yelling at me. What are some good alternatives? Thanks guys