Careless

I know, i stopped myself from going with the D3.

Thanks bjhines. Those are actually the exact ones i had asked my electrical supplier if he could get last year, and he never got back to me. Perhaps I should follow up. The reason I was second guessing though, is because in their gallery they have a picture of a ford cosworth engine with their "power-2-pass" technology (fancy word for scramble boost), and I saw it at the autoshow... the connectors looked like they were cast aluminum and painted black. UL94V-0 heat rating on these plastic ones.... is that engine bay safe? thanks! EDIT: GAHH! 1045 series is metal. and it's 10 times the price. lol

no doubt in my mind that you guys will break 8's with the engine running at full song with nos and big ass slicks. call me crazy, but the car seems to be beyond crazy. LOL

Hi Mike. Perhaps hiring or inviting someone who's willing to help out at the track might be beneficial to both you and the person willing enough to assist you. It's a great way to make friends, but you gotta pick someone you have 100% trust in. 99.9% won't cut it. Some people would love nothing more than to spend their time at the track on a weekend than sit around the house all day. Perhaps you may find someone very dedicated using certain services like craigslist or kijiji, or perhaps even the forums. But that leaves a lot of trust to be worked upon. I remember repairing a megasquirt board that had fried for an affiliate of an affiliate of mine. It took some time, but in the end we got a Hyundai working with a full VW ignition system. This is a car I've never even seen, and the current megasquirt I was working on was never installed into the car we planned to use it for. It just took a lot of research because having them drive the unit back and forth during test-repairs was not a very good option. I'm sure you can do it or find someone willing to assist you. Just buy em lunch or something.

If i were to put a weld through primer down, it would be to stop oxidation from occuring while the car is in storage in bare metal form. After all the work is done, one could re-prime the car, which might cost a bit more but the added benefit in knowing the welds won't be affected (because you would have sanded down the target area, in this case) by porosity is a good thing to not have to worry about.

I've done all the work for you. In the long white container, you will find the crankshaft with the journals wrapped in cloths and taped in place so they wouldn't scratch or rust. Beside that is the girdle. both wrapped in styrofoam housing so they don't bounce around. Pistons are numbered from the cylinder i pulled them from and placed on top. Bearings are numbered and wrapped in packaging paper and put inside a small container inside the bigger white container, along with everything else i took off the block. If there is anything missing, i have it and i can ship it.

RB30's, as stated, do have main girdles as standard. Another reason why Rob (RIPSNZ) mentioned that he hadn't found the need for ARP main studs, and that they've re-used main bolts with no failures as of yet. Maybe that's a testament to the strength that the girdle provides in bolt loading as well as distribution of forces. As for the oil squirters, They will also get in the way of the rods or the counterweights is what I've read. And it might be a good idea to have the pistons coated with some heat dispersing coatings from techline or swaintech or something. It will do a better job than squirting them with super hot oils from what people are telling me.

really sorry bout that OTM. was a little sauced, bored at my parent's place, and really didn't feel that hardware store bolts were well enough to use to fasten a head down onto an engine. But i think it would be cool if you tried it and checked to see how long it would last. I myself am just out of college and pay my own rent and buy my own things. Haven't received a dime from my parents since before I moved out, so I can appreciate the cost savings associated with running these hardware store bolts. Especially since the engine is going to be replaced. However, if it were a long term build, I'd just fore go the guinea-pig setup and go with race tested products.

You can use propane

Don't spend all your money so quickly! Leave room for emergencies. I know you're gonna say "I know, I know", but deep down inside, both you and I know we're gonna go spend it anyways. LOL I showed Rj all my parts that I have so far, but I bet you guys will be way ahead of me by the time I get my RB26. I might look for another RB26 head to start working with if this one doesn't come any time soon.

That site has some great information, and rule of thirds is definitely one to go by. BUT DON'T let it take over everything you take a picture of. (rule 7 on that website is exactly what I'm talking about). SOME THINGS look better right in the middle. It's how you use the other two 3rds (above and below, or left and right) that will influence how well the photo has been framed.If you look at my pictures posted a while back, you will see that most of them have terminating lines that go to corners or match up on the opposite end of the photo. Example, if you were to see a body line of a car exit the bottom left by about 1 inch from the bottom, chances are, I would have made the same exit on the top right, 1 inch from the top. It's a good way of keeping the detail in the photo purposely, while not drawing distracting attention to it. It's there, and it's gone, the eye sees it, registers in, and doesn't confuse it with what's more important. These are small tips and tricks more associated with style rather than photographic etiquette, but then again, if you truly believe photographic etiquette exists, then you're limiting yourself to a cramped area of photography that leaves little room for advancement in both skill and other's appreciation for your talent. No matter how great it is, everything can get boring. I think I like Rule 7 the most. A teacher of mine had asked us to do a project in our Typography class (study of letters and glyphs/characters, how fonts are used, as well as how they're made), and we had to use certain rules and what not and make ALL of the rules work harmoniously together... We were in 3rd term, so naturally everyone knew the rules like the back of their hand. The second part of the project was to do the exact same thing, except breaking all the rules. I can tell you first hand that when you have more than 3 or 4 rules to follow, trying to break them all together is harder than following a rule outline. Something to keep in mind. I really really wish I had a camera now, so that I could take better pictures of whatever it is I want, but I don't have that kind of money right now. I'm looking into it one I'm on salary. (D300) + (18-200 VR lense) + (2 x 4gb Extreme III card) + (extra battery and battery grip) + (well built pro-tripod) + (remote shutter release) + (SB800 flash) This is going to take a while If you guys need tips or advice, whether technical or regarding artistic opinion, I think we have more than enough talent on this forum to get a good idea and take in some great suggestions. Keep up the great work guys, I look forward to updates on this thread all the time And bring on a happy new year! Raff

Fast-Idle output would be LED17, correct? Haven't used MS in a while.

hey pro'x I think the calculation for the tuned runner length is from valve head to runner inlet, so that would mean where it first hit's a larger air space in comparison to the runner diameter or volume. the plenum exit (where the runner starts) would be where the measurement starts from. Is that what you did? In this case, you would have had to calculate passed your curve in the runners and up into where they touch the plenum, because it's still part of the small diameter runner.

hey nav, interesting place to be photographing. I was going to mention trying to lower the aperture a bit, or go with a lense that can open up to 3.5 or 2.8, but I think in this case, the background lends a hand to the mood of the photo. But it's something that I suggest trying. One thing I like to do is bracketing. If your lense is controlled via electronics for the Aperture, you can do bracketing in aperture or shutter speed mode. If in aperture mode, it will take a photo at the set, above set, and below set aperture openings. You do need a larger card though. The reason I say set the camera to that mode is because people don't like sitting around for 3 of the same shots, and they certainly don't like standing infront of a fumbling photographer, so having it auto-bracket is a good idea =). If your cam doesnt have auto bracketing or doesnt control aperture, then set your camera to "A" mode, or "Ta" mode (aperture priority mode). Focus your frame, take a quick shot. flip aperture down once, take a quick shot, and flip aperture up twice, and take a quick shot. Once done, you can even superimpose the pics ontop of eachother to achieve cool effects through a bit of photoshop work, but I believe in good framing and in-camera work, personally

Olie, your car is an N/A setup, right?

Oh, I thought you meant put the screwdriver down the spark plug hole to find TDC. Good call guys. Sounds like the screwdriver is the most handy tool in this case . If for that use, I'd advise against a flathead though, that might damage the mouth of the plug-wire terminal.

Is it going to be modified? I think the early supra wheels (right?) with the painted spoke centers are are nice touch too

SR20 engines have a long coil boot, and the terminal will not protrude enough to arc to the block, no? I guess having an extra test lead to remove it from the spark source instead of the termination point would be an alternative, that way you wouldn't have to remove or pull the plugs or any covers holding them down.

LOL... there really are no other words. You said it as best as any other replacement for the same words could do. Best group of car guys I've met. I think it boils down to the people not saying things like: "man, that in that old is soooo outdated" to people being curious and saying: "man, I wonder if the from the could fix that in my Z..." LOL Here's to all the Z'ers!

If you've got the Nikon series, the good thing about being able to use any F mount series lense is what I like. Best lense out there right now for personal use in a wide range of applications is the 18-200 VR lense. It costs as much as the camera itself, and saves you the pain of having to switch between 3 lenses, as well as having to buy them. Rent one from your local camera outlet, I'm sure you'll be impressed with it's range and capability in comparison to whatever the Nikon 40 series comes with as a kit, and compared to what you'd have to buy in order to get that flexability. Cheers, and happy photographin' in the new year. Raff

the higher in power you go, the more of a no-brainer it becomes. You could get twice the factory rated output on most engines with OEM head bolts, but why take the chance if you spend the money to get there? A few things to remember are 1) torque in steps. 2 to 4 steps, Ideally. 3 if you like odd numbers. 5 if you have the time to do so (make time). 2) ALWAYS use proper 10W-30 or 30W weight oil, or even better, the provided assembly lube. dry threads have create more friction, thus more resistance, thus making the torque wrench FEEL like it's working against more fastening torque than it actually is. If you don't use the provided assembly lube, you better be good at calculating what the resistance and final torque rating must be in comparison to the fastener's provided instructions (or... dont even try to and just do it the proper way), as they're read with proper assembly lube. You can buy the assembly lube in 25ml and 50ml bottles direct from your ARP distributor, which is better than the small sample-pack that they supply you with. Mostly because engine assembly can take several tries. Don't lube once and never again. Always put enough to cover all threads. 3) Re-torque once the engine is run in for a while, or after the break in period. Metal needs to go through heat cycles to relax itself. If you have to take the cam off to do so... so what? it's part of engine building. Either do it before a head gasket problem occurs, or do it when the head gasket problem occurs anyway... I'd rest knowing I've done the former. 4) make sure your torque wrench is within proper spec. Don't go by the supplied spec sheet, there are various ways to calibrate your device. and make sure you always relieve the spring tension in the torque wrench when it's not being used. they will settle and provide inaccurate readings if they are tightened all the time (that's how torque wrenches work, they use an internal spring, and they settle over time if always taught). ummmm, anyone have anything else to add? or should we move this to another thread or something?I guess it sorta does coincide with not using cheap bolts from the hardware store too... right?

Thanks Doug, I'll check it out when I get home tomorrow morning. Any idea at all from what month those cars were produced? It could be just the late 87's that had it. I'll check the Nissan FAST again... What I did was just look in the parts breakdown, I did not look in the car's actual feature set according to fast, but I thought it would be the same. Thanks for your reply. I'm trying my best to reduce the "stir up" I've caused (yeah, I was a little pissed), but all this info that I'm looking for is bringing it within reason again.

I think pressure treated wood is usually what they use. Sprayed or soaked in arsenic, so that it cannot be eaten by any rodents or chewed by insects that will call it their home until they settle on North American soil and scurry off to find more stuff to chew on. That's how the Asian long-horned beetle got here, and is one of the main reasons why just north of Toronto, a lot of trees are just falling apart. Definately worth getting whatever it is to be sealed properly in a container that is effective at stopping this kind of thing. If not, what they'll do is put it in a closed chamber or a controlled environment, on top of a thick and sturdy steel grate with large holes, and they will smoke or "fumigate" the entire contents until it is purged of all creatures, as Stealth-Z mentioned. The holes in the steel grate cause anything that escapes to fall into a chamber for examination or obliteration. LOL. I once opened a steel container full of fiberglassed statues in wooden crates, packaged with hay bails and dark brown dirt wrapped in burlap rags. Not only were there rusty poisonous nails sticking every which way out of these crates, but a weird looking 12 legged spider with two big eyes crawled out of one of the boxes. I ♥♥♥♥ you not, it was like no other insect I had ever seen, and I used to be infatuated with weird looking creatures when I was in grade school. I've seen them all... But this thing..... *shudders*. Granted there were probably dozens or even hundreds more where that came from... probably hiding in the cracks of the fibreglass statues... but I felt safe in squashing that thing with a hammer. I quit the job just a day after, as I didn't want to be associated with that company anymore because they weren't paying me enough to do this illegitimate importing of said items. Even if it was legit, I ain't waiting to get stung by whatever the ♥♥♥♥ comes out of those crates, not even if it's "just" a rust nail from the middle east.

Yep, once you reach a point where the head of the bolt cannot be seated any further, if the bolt does not yield, the part of the bolt that is not seated into the block's iron threads will probably start to spin first, which would essentially "run over" the aluminum threads in the head, until the head of the bolt decides to break free.

My personal idea on head bolts is that when the head of the bolt bottoms out onto the washer or head mating surface, you now stress the bolt head and pull it away from the shank while you tighten the bolt, weakening the only ONE area that is gripping the bolt, or providing any sort of clamping force other than the threads against each other. take a look at tightening head studs. you can tighten them to the same torque spec, but you've probably made a better effort at compressing the head gasket and seating it properly and speading load, mainly because since the nut is open ended, it can continue to be torqued further than a head bolt would, and the part that is providing most of the clamping load would be the threads. And the tighter you make them (all stretching aside), the higher the clamping load will be amongst the threads. Mainly because the threads are taking the brunt of the load, and they have more surface area than the underside of the head of a bolt, which seems to like to spread the load between threads and the bolt head. If you were to tighten a head bolt, once you start to thread passed the bolt heads yield point, it will continue to stretch, and will actually lose clamping force amongst the threads. The only thing providing holding power would then be the bolt head itself, which is on it's way to being ripped off. I like to think of how many rusted stud/nut combinations I've taken apart that broke in comparison to how many bolts I've taken apart, regardless of whether it's for a head fastener or not. I'm talking about various things that are just stuck, and wont move. I can honestly say I've RARELY broken a stud/nut combo. Whereas a bolt... well, that's why I bought a set of bolt extractors... EDIT: adding to that, there are many other reasons that I can see being the determining factor. price is just not important anymore, as I found this quote in the Corky Bell Maximum Boost book. "Head bolts are an accountants decision. Head studs are an engineers decision" and as for price not being important. I say that because head bolts from OEM suppliers are good quality, but about +/- 60 dollars than a good set of ARP or Tomei stud kits. You can get them for way cheaper though. probably even half of what the better stud kits will cost you. ARP and Kameari make stud kits for the Datto' L6 I think.