Careless

I don't know why you guys would just scan them and leave them as is. I would scan it at any angle, correct the angle, save it, and import it into Adobe Illustrator, and vectorize it, so you can resize it if need be. That is the way it should be done so that any manufacturer can use the file properly.

Jon, i was just pointing out what I saw in the first picture you squared off, but you definitely know more than i do regarding carbs so if you think there's a problem, then I'm not going to doubt it. And Kevin is getting a hard on over controversial thread too, so i guess there is a problem.

whether or not the manifolds are good, the picture is only showing the ambient light coming from the back side of the picture, through the square port on the other bank on the head-mounting side. nothing wrong here.

hey Cal, have you done any runs at 360 rwhp? Guestimation (i hate that word) of times?

It's not a bad guide if you wanna see where everything goes and how to go about getting at it, and what's involved... ... but just take a look at the guys front rad support, even he knows it's as solid as a corn flake.

Damn, if only you weren't racing against such a loud V8, it'd be nice to hear the RB sound once again. 3 points for the japs! Right on

here here!

check your lighting circuit and your ignition switch wiring. you could just unhook the battery and use an audible continuity tester to see which wire is shorting with whatever other wire is causing the blow-out. it will take while to trace, but once you get body contact on a power wire, you should have found your issue.

Yep, I know what Tony's talking about. Moved out 1.333_ years ago, and I can't see myself going back. The next thing I plan to do is guage whether or not a mortgage for my own place is the next best thing to do... even if there's only a couch, a mattress and a TV in the entire damn thing. Currently I live with a friend who is also my land lord, and I pay rent. And I will be shooting for a 42+k salary this year, when my boss makes an offer. Anything less than that, and I'll be asking for increased benefits, reduced hours, and all holidays off. Don't sell yourself short. I did, and I'm starting to dislike work. And you don't neccessarily HAVE to take him up on his offer... why not go through a 90 day probationary period, and find a host family or someone with a room to rent about 10 minutes from work in Reno, and see if you like it? That way all your stuff stays where it is, and you can organize the move a little better, should you decide to grab the bull by the horns. Other than the church community, what would you miss if you left? To be honest, I think seeing people from church half as much as you did before will give you a reason to look forward to coming back every month or so. I like to spend some time with some good people and have fun on occasion rather calling people to figure out what to do due to boredom. At least when you got your own place, you'll have a lot of things to keep you busy. bottom line: mixed bag

yeah it's probably that exact supplier, im gonna ask how much their lifters go for, and for whom they supply

No worries scotty. All questions can be answered or found out the hard way, and sometimes that's just how we're gonna have to do it. For bearings you can either go with KING or ACL. most people use ACL. I actually got ACL with Calico Coating CT-1 oil absorbing coating. Apparently if the engine starts to lose oil pressure, the bearings will retain a thin film that will stop the engine from seizing or spinning bearings completely. It costs twice the price though. You can find the ACL bearings on ebay for about 40% of the price I paid... But I got a Calico hat too, so JE seems to be the company I've heard of that has the most piston failures (only hearsay). As for the parts swappable, just let me know what you need to refresh on the block when you get there, and I can compare it with the box'o'parts I got... It has everything in it, brand new. With all the part numbers. AND, there are plenty of RB30's here, just not so many in Z's

something to keep in mind.

modifying the VCT solenoid oil passage is what is required. It involves welding up an area on the block (or the head, cant recall) or blocking it off completely and running a separate oil feed into the head to allow the VCT to ramp up oil pressure to the cam, since the VCT is activated by means of oil pressure. whether using it or not, a modification has to be made. Do you have Cube's RB30 guide?

and still outflows the L2x heads. i guess that pretty much explains the story with the high numbers at low boost. great parts selection and killer setup, Bryan

there they are however, I don't think my small ends have a trench machined into it... maybe it's just the picture.

I checked the rod side clearances and I was about to check the run-out until someone dropped my gauge. It was almost saved because it had a magnetic base that ended up hitting the floor and sticking to a flat piece of iron that i had laying there, but then the loose arm that holds the gauge spun to the bottom and smashed the glass to bits. LOL meh. I'll have to get another. Racinjitter knows as much about the block as I do, or will when he takes some slight measurements, but when I got the block, it spun so freely and didn't even hesitate, no hick-ups in the rotation of the crank, and I know it's a casting issue that you will see there. In fact, if you were to get someone to weld the casting issue, THE FIRST thing i would do is use a grinding stone and grind down the small casting seam that i found, you'll see it there, and i pointed it out to Racinjitter. I found it while grinding the main skirts of all their flashing. you can probably grind out the casting seam that was found and as long as theres complete metal underneath it, and it doesnt look like it cracks through, then you will strengthen that area by rounding it off. Mainly because you may have taken metal away, but you are now denying that little area a starting point.... because you would be removing it As far as the rest of the block, I would get it hot tanked again, just to be safe, and I would also clean out the main threads. And when you get it hot tanked this time, make sure it's not a shop that leaves the core plugs on, and doesnt coat the block with some sort of rust preventative after it comes out of the tank. It will cost about 75 bucks. Then get a set of generic stainless or brass metric replacement plugs and make sure everything else is in line, and fit an oil restrictor... and woila In regards to the questions you plan on asking, there are other people who will also know a vast amount more than I do who post here, and they'll make you aware of who they are when you have a question. I haven't gotten too far into my build passed the buying parts thing. But I can assure you that I researched all of the parts I have, and went with new things on others (Romac Balancer, Gates Belt) mainly because someone's gotta try it My main reason for not having MINE built yet is because I'm 23, live on my own, and have to take it slowly with my spending, so I'm holding off on the machining until I have absolutely every part, RB26 head included. As for the rods posted in the beginning of the thread, and Soiley's recent post (I make nicknames for everyone, hope you don't mind, J )... I think Eagle and Supra rods are made from a company called CATS Racing Products. I reinforce that fact by turning you guys to this thread here on a Supra forum: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/74699-my-new-h-beam-junk-eagle-rods-2.html Read through it to see what I mean. It could be that the rods sold here are some that are not within Eagle's or Tomei's spec, but they are still ok to be used, and thus packaged... but with todays ease of manufacturing and labelling (as well as sneaky wording), I wouldn't be surprised if they were the same. Funny thing is, though... that a well known machinist here in Toronto area told a friend of mine who visited last month in regards to his SBC 400ci he's building had shown my friend that SCAT parts are made of denser and harder metal than Eagles, and that machining SCAT cranks are a bitch because they're much harder than Eagle's soft "buttery" metal. oh yeah, the same company who supplies rods for Eagle supplies for SCAT too. LOL so many options for RB26... not many for RB30 without paying 2000 or so. IF you look on ebay, you will see Manley X beam rod sets with CP Pistons for like 2100... you get a lot of quality in that purchase, and a lot of happy people behind the trusted names, but how much do you want to spend? They are usually for RB26 anyway too. so RB30 would be custom, and more. I vote for the Spools over there. Reason being that they don't have a name associated with them, or I haven't read anything about them. I haven't read anything BAD about spool, only good things. So... :-/ T88? awwwwwwwwww yeeeeeeeaaaauhhhhh My friend's uncle has an FD3S Rx7 with a T88. And since he's an aviation Engineer, the license plate says LIFT OFF And it sure does when it catches it's breathe... hehehe

I, and Stealth-Z went with the Spool Rods, as well as wiseco pistons (I swear, he's copying me! )... http://www.fairladyzg.com/images/RB30/stockvswisecospool.jpg I read good reviews and there were enough ppl on SAU who used them and bought them direct from spool, as did I. He even cut me a deal to cope with shipping charges overseas. 860 said and done at my door, with 40 bucks or so for customs. Racinjitter took a look at them when he was over. He saw all the goodies I have for the RB30 that are anxiously awaiting a head to partner up with Also, I'm not sure if you guys question his validity, but the user SydneyKid (real name withheld), had informed me that Spool rods are fine, and they're good enough for what most people will do with the rods. The steel used is very dense, and is not hard on the outside and soft in the middle like an oreo, and for the price, you would not be able to find a set of remanufactured and prepped rods that can even stand close to the same level of horsepower. main thing is check to make sure every rod has the same dimensions when you get them, check to make sure that all rods are in good condition, and make sure the side and bearing clearances are spot on (even though RB clearances will have Chevy and Ford engine builders investigating the validity of the publishers that Nissan uses for their FSMs, and whether or not they're just monkeys with calculators) <--- [also reinforced by the page numbering that nissan likes to use on their FSM]. And just for the record, Stealth-Z had everything first

better hope you're firin' off blanks... i might buy one too =) is that a double barrel shotgun you have?

That's not a GTR though. That's a GT with an RB20

are you comparing it to just L6 heads though?

that would mean there's a part number associated with them... maybe i should check Vintage FAST and see if i can dig one up, and then call my nissan dealership to see if they can do a world-search.

showcars does not have the imsa flares. i went there and bought a shitty set of flares from him that weren't even the same. they are definately not imsa flares, but they'll be ok for using as a base to design my own flares. at least I have something sturdy to put some 'glass onto.

I think I might go with JUN with fentin_fury. It has an externally adjustable pressure spring, and should feed the oil coolers well and pump that little bit of extra oil through the extra oil clearance on the bearings nicely... I think with that range of pumps (tomei, greddy, jun, nismo) I'm going to have to run a tight restrictor and definately a head drain. Gotta see what the money looks like for the end of this month.

yes they are. i read that rb20 is aswell, but 25 and 26 are definately

gaaaaaaaahd daaaaaaaaayng!