Careless
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Everything posted by Careless
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Question about Cleaning the inside of Mild Steel piping
Careless replied to LamboZ's topic in Fabrication / Welding
Just be careful to remove all solvents completely (i.e. - whipe with a solvent-free rag to clean up the excess) before you start welding. if one end of the tube is sealed, it will become a flame thrower for about a second or two, so watch where you point it. -
So you're thinking that the "replace worn differential - R200" was not actually done, but the finned CLSD carrier cover plate was the only thing switched for 200 bucks + labour = 600 bucks total? I'd hate to believe it was jacked, but it sounds like a more reasonable answer to the missing cover plate. Especially since it's an 05 / 87 Turbo.
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Hi Omar, welcome back. It looks as though you have ATS wheels on your silver car, and I think there's someone who's looking to replace their missing or broken ATS wheel for a fair price, as they're quite uncommon. Not overly desirable by any means, but some people just like what they've got, so if you're not attached to them I think it's in the buy and sell of either this site or the zcar.com site. Your new car looks very straight and clean, and I'm envious Cheers!
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someone stop this guy before he starts putting 100% meth in his coffee. LOL j/k phil. 30psi? I don't remember any links to any forged bottom end goodies... you withholding information?
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I wonder how far away from the car the PC2250 would send the starter.
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most of 'em just look through the side glass with the music blaring.
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any front shots of that white car, blunty?
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I hear you on that one, Quentin. I saw some pics of the N1/Factory differences. Mainly a larger pumping gear with less teeht. I'm curious to know how the Nismo one stacks up against Jun or Tomei, since it's 400 dollars cheaper than either, but it it's probably what's found on their Z-tune or the JGTC cars. I'd like to believe I need nowhere near the capacity that the Jun or Tomei provide, as they're used to pump up a healthy set of turbos pump it through a large oil cooler to keep the excessive heat down.... whereas for my build, I can probably get by on a smaller oil cooler.... BTW, how did the parts selection go? what did you end up going with? Raff.
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I find it just a BIT EERIE that I was JUST NOW actually doing online insurance quotes to get an idea of what I'd be paying as a primary driver for my Z31 Turbo. Looks like I can toss those sheets the in the garbage. LOL But I stared getting insurance 3 years ago, and haven't ever had a single traffic confrontation or even seen a ticket with my name on it, so that should keep me out of "sticker shock" range.
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well that's cause the R200 is also in the Q isnt it? He's asking if an R230 carrier will fit in there with the same half shafts... i think?
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Hi guys, looking at JPS Trading Limited (eBay). I've noticed that the Nismo oil pump part number is not the same as the N1 part number, which leads me to believe the Nismo Oil pump is of higher capacity/output rating than the N1 pump. The nismo pump is definately a Nismo number (indicated, usually by the RR), but I was always under the impression that the N1 and the Nismo were one in the same. Has anyone any experience with the differences? N1 pump = 15010-24U01 Nismo pump = 15010-RR580
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well i wouldn't say he's dumb. he's just having fun with a project. I mean, he's probably just testing aero right now and will cut weight off later once it's all good to go. perhpas there are state laws regarding the modification of the car's structure dependant on when it was made, so he can't remove any of the factory stuff right now. he did say he used that car because that was the car he had. pretty simple.
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I think he should make some fiberglass panels and really button up the looks of the car and give it a nice coat of low-resistance paint (lol), so that he can somewhat relieve the atrociousness. Now if he can take a page from the book of that student who Air Conditioned his car using a home unit to the point where his nipples were hard enough to break into bank vaults, he could have a self-propelled frozen land missile.
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Warren is right. in a casting of an 8, the bottom circle is usually the one that is visually "on top", if you were to pretend they were two separately layered circles. good call, Warren.
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LOL. as much as it frustrates me, I'm only posting this for the people who don't really examine their cars when they get them back. I don't want to go on strike in front of the TO BE HONEST, i'm happy with the car as is... but I WAS weary of that when i saw it in the pages I was given. I'll have to do some sleuthing. The reason I didn't catch it when I bought it was because I didn't know about it. plain and simple. so I can see why swapping it out would be an easy thing... :-/
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Yeah... I really don't wanna get ahead of myself on this one. I've personally met the owner of this shop before and he's a very very nice guy. Perhaps not the one who did the work on the car, either. Their work orders are fairly detailed, all things I can understand. And perhaps they made the previous owner and offer, but I'm wondering why they wouldn't have written it down this particular unit on the work-order at all, rather than just R200?... First order of business, email the Previous Owner to see if he knows anything about it.
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So, Racinjitter and I spent the better and brigther half of the day cruising from my two locations to grab some stuff... *waves* And at the end of the whole adventure, before Rj set off, he had a look-see at my 87 turbo, because I know virtually nothing about them other than I like them and it was a good purchase for what I paid. (probably not compared to what some other people paid, but not all of us can find cars for a case of beer!) Anyways... looking through the receipts the owner gave me... it seems as though a the shop decided it would be nice to "replace worn differential - R200" as indicated on the receipt. The car clearly has a non-LSD unit in there now, as Rj mentioned that if it was a CLSD, it would have a finned diff cover. The car was babied for it's entire life span. HOW does a diff get worn out unless it was a mechanical failure? EDITED (just to be sure): The car is an 05/87. The previous owner is a kind-hearted man, and only sold me the car at a low-ball price because of a divorce issue... And the repairs easily totaled over 8,000 in only 4 receipts... out of about 25 or so, all of which he gave me, along with his Ontario Z car membership, Limited edition ZEDLINE Magazines that are hard to come by for Z fans, and a really really nice car when you get down to it. I mean for the money I paid... it's great... But if it was stripped of an original equipment performance model feature... well.... I've contacted both the PO, and the shop that did the work, and I am waiting on the reply from the shop.
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0hhhh'sk00 yo. there are other sources of information you'd need to do any kind of RB30 build... but that'll get you started. Best thing to do is have the main parts in hand like the block, the head, and the pumping mechanisms. From there, the rest is generally machine work and trying to get things to match up. There are a couple of us building them 'round these parts, and there are 2 more that were added to the RB30 list today.
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Check these... used by the rotary crowd for some time now. http://www.odysseybatteries.com/batteries.htm
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congrats! man, i had a fit trying to start mine, until one day I says to myself "it's that bloody fuel pump!". so I disassembled it and and gave it a good cleaning, purged it with some solvents, and BAAAM. 10:30 at night, my exhaust broke off its rusty bolts to the roar of all 6 cylinders at 6,000 RPM after a 20 year hiatus. Nothing quite like that first-time feeling. (and just for good measure) "That's what SHE said" *ahem*. congrats =)