Lewis Maudlin

I used the stock housing for my autometer gauges. You can remove the housing with one screw. Take it out remove the old gauge and you can put the autometer gauges right in. I doesn't take 10 minutes to remove a housing. Take the cover off below the gauges and you can access all three. Remove the clock since it is electrical and get an autometer gauge. Pretty easy.

I got my: Ball joints and outer tie rod ends Victoria British inner tie rod ends - got complete steering rack from steeringrack.com suspension complete Illumina's and springs from Motorsport direct on ebay

What are you guys using for gauges in your SR20DET powered Datsuns? Specifically what did you do about a speedometer? Is there anything that mates up or does it have to be fabbed? What about other gauges? I have my motor on order. I should be up an running in about two weeks. Anyone know of anything else I need to do? Thanks.

I know you said "Don't ask questions", but why would you want a 3.10 gear set? Yes it will increase your top end, but my 355sbc with a 700R4 would do 130mph in 3rd gear with a 3.54 rear end. DD said 210 in 4th, but I 130 was fast enough. Are you trying to go more than 210? I am not saying that my car would do 210mph but just that the rear end was not limiting top speed. Maybe you are trying to be slower off the line? Or maybe, you are trying to get better gas mileage out of a daily driver?

I am building an SR20DET 280Z. My last hybrid was a 400hp sbc. I ended up having to go with the Griffin 1.25" tube aluminum radiator. The biggest baddest radiator that would fit. I was also running air conditioning. Anyway, I read this post on jagthatrun.com http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V8-chapters/V8-DatsunZ-Cooling-System.pdf It seemed to make sense. The guys at jags that run typically know what they are talking about. Does anyone have any suggestions? I like the nice clean mounting brackets prefabbed. I am worried that it won't be enough to cool my 250-300rwhp SR20DET with airconditioning. With my sbc swap I had the smaller core camaro radiator and it was not enough for the chevy. Will I need more or less with this turbo 4 cylinder??? Thanks.

As you know, I am building an SR20DET powered 280Z. I am trying to figure out what to do for cooling. I was going to buy a griffin 1.25" tube radiator for $255. However, I found the 1.00" tube griffing radiator for $150.00. I had good luck with the Griffin 1.25" tube radiator with my 400hp sbc with air. Does anyone know which radiator would be good with the SR20DET? I found this thread from jagsthatrun.com. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V8-chapters/V8-DatsunZ-Cooling-System.pdf These guys usually know what they are talking about. I like their nice clean mounts. The radiator is also nice and thin so there is more room for the intercooler. Will I need as much or more cooling with the SR20DET with air conditioning and a T28 turbo? What do you guys think? Will the jagsthatrun radiator work or should I go with the Griffin? The Griffin worked fine, but I got made and parted out my sbc datsun before the radiator had time to go bad.

I didn't realize that there were new turbos that were that bad. So there are companies manufacturing new turbos that are worse that old worn out turbos? Huh. Guess I will have to see what I bought. The seller was sakura industry. This is the link to the iterm. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8000217194&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT It does concern me that the seller has been artificially inflating his feedback rating. If you look, he buys a lot of e-books and stuff like that for $.01 so that he can get good feedback. He could have a 3000 feedback for $30.00. That concerns me.

Well, I am throwing the new turbo in my swap. I will let you know how it runs. Of course, I won't have a baseline to compare, but I will let you know how it goes. I plan on installing the engine as soon as Alex gets me one. I have the engine out and car prepped. Just waiting on my engine and cradle.

Ebay is great, I found a brand new T28 turbo to go with my SR20DET that Alex is supposed to be getting me. The turbo was on ebay and it was $395 plus shipping. Did I get a good deal?

I think it is a bad idea to go with a fixed rear end. One of the best things about the Z's are its independent rear suspension. I think you are taking a great handling race car and hobbling it.

My 400 hp at the crank 355sbc only ever got about 12mpg on average with a 700R4 overdrive tranny and a 3.54 rear end. I have opted this time to go with a SR20DET which I am in the process of installing. I should be able to get 30 mpg at 7 psi boost and 255 hp at the wheels at 15 psi. The best of both worlds. I can get more than 300 hp at the wheels if I switch the MAF injectors and computer, however, I won't be able to get 30 mpg the rest of the time. BTW, with the 250 lbs or more weight savings for the aluminum blocked 4 cylinder, the SR20DET should run a quicker quarter than the 400 hps sbc.

I ran the griffin 1.25" dual tube radiator. I had no problems. It worked well and actually cooled my Z. This was an accomplishment on my last Z because it was a 400hp 335sbc with headers, aluminum heads and air conditioning. A lot of heat under that hood. It took the big radiator with a fully louvered hood to get rid of all that heat.

Summit sells both griffin radiators. The one for like $259 GRI-1-55202-X is over 50% larger. It has two 1.25" tubes. If we remember our math, V=A*L volume=area times length. Area equal 3.14*radius squared. The radius is half the diamer of the tube. .5 squared times 3.14 = .785 .625 squared time 3.14 = 1.2266 That means that for $70 extra, you get a radiator that is more than 56% larger. If you are going to spend the money on extra cooling, $75 for an extra 56% flow would be well worthwhile. 36% more money for 56% more volume.

I voted SR motor. I am looking at the parts in my living room right now. However, I have done the GM V-8. Haven't we all. I think most people are voting for the oddball swap they have done rather than the GM V-8 that we have all done. We need to be able to vote more than once.

I agree, go with the video tape approach. Then, go see the postmaster about it. Don't announce that you have a video tape. Tell the postmaster that you are sure that he did not come to the house and the date. Let him swear to his boss that he did. Then present the video tape. BTW, I am a prosecutor in my spare time.

Other than being a Hyundai, that was pretty cool. A 10 second quarter on street tires!!! Wait, that was A 10 SECOND QUARTER ON STREET TIRES!!! I think I would have to go put a few crotch rockets to shame in a Hyundai

If that is all you want, there is a SR20DET S15 on ebay with a 6 spd for like $3200. With a decent exhaust and intake, you should be able to get a reliable 250hp without modding it. The 6-spd I understand is reliable also as long as you don't get up over 300hp or so. The 6-spd is the same tranny as the 5-spd with narrower gears to accomodate the extra gear.

Buy GM puts (a short position). As long as things keep going like they are and baby boomers start collecting pensions, GM is going to continue to fall. If you are wondering what to do with regard to the car. I have owned everything from a Z32 to a 1974 260 w/sbc and 700R4. I do not like the 280ZX or the Z31. They both seem in between cool and slick making them either click of sool. I always come back to first generation Z's because they are the most fun. Here is what I am doing if ALEX ever gets me my engine: Put in Tokico Illumina springs and shocks $700 ebay MSA direct, I think SR20DET & engine mount $2500 with shipping Intercooler and header $ 313 Intake manifold $ 225 Oil pump $ 100 got a deal Water pump $ 70 Fuel pump $ 91 Install with exhaust and drive shaft $1000 got a deal TOTAL $5000 Miscellaneous other expenses $1,000,000

OK, I have most of the parts except the engine. I have been waiting for Vildini to get one in stock. Those guys proposed: "a stock rebuild on one of the motors for an extra $1000 would include new stock oem headgasket, new piston rings, new rod bearings and new main bearings and it would be basically a new engine again." Does anyone think this should be necessary? I would hate to have to pull the engine and have it rebuilt after it is installed. However, these JDM engines are supposed to be relatively low mileage. I can't imagine that they would need a rebuild. Even the high mileage ones that I have seen have had 80-90k miles. I have never had an import that needed rebuilt. Much less with that few miles? Anyone think yes or no?

Will a Z32 MAF benefit me? I am going to be running stock injectors, FMIC, tube exhaust manifold, aftermarket intake manifold, adjustable boost 7psi for daily 15 psi for fun. I can find a Z32 MAF if it will benefit me on the stock ECU. Anyone know? Several people have mentioned it.

I think it is considered by most to be a piece of junk. It is a 9mm carbine that uses the Beretta mags. It isn't good for much and according to reviews, the things that it should be good for, it does a mediocre job. Hi-point sells a junky carbine which is similar for about 1/3 of the price. If that is what you want, there are better choices. The thing I like about the FN P90 is that it is a fast, armor piercing round that does not overpenetrate. It holds 50 rounds and ejects downward. Important for a lefty. It is very pricey though.

a good shotgun would do you a lot better than a pistol. more deterrent effect. Nothing scares them like the sound of a pump shotgun being pumped

I comply with the gun laws. I own a few AK's. 40 round clips. An SKS, a couple nice rifles, a few shotguns and a handgun for each day of the week. This is a picture of my next rifle. I am buying one as soon as the civilian legal version comes out in early 2006. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FN_P90 Check it out. It is pretty cool.

I am sure you hear that all the time, but it is applicable in this case. A 600 crotch rocket is going to be just as dangerous as a 1200 sport tourer. Probably more so since the crotch rockets beg to be driven stupidly. I have ridden for 15 years and what finally got me down was a Harley which as we all know have very little power. It is the rider not the size of the bike. A little bigger bike may get a little more respect than some toy.