Miles

The 240sx caliper slides on two guide pins. After installing the calipers I noticed that the right side caliper had some play in the guide pins. I could move the right caliper up and down slightly. The left caliper is tight and can not be moved up, down or side to side. So I went back to NAPA and exchanged the right side caliper for a new one. After installing the new caliper it also has the slight up and down movement. Is this a problem or normal for floating calipers? Thanks Miles

Here are some pictures of the modified E-Brake bracket installed. The cable fits perfect. Pulling the E-Brake handle up locks up both calipers.

Homes Please do post some pics. Thanks Miles

Homes Any signs that the driver's side hose rubs on the frame? Also, did you clamp the passenger side hose to the frame? Thanks Miles

I haven't hooked up the cables yet, but they do look about 1/4" short. I could make a slightly longer adaptor if the caliper becomes too preloaded. I am running into a lot of little problems I didn't expect such as the driver's side flex line looks like it will rub on the frame (see picture). Also, my cam arm where the e-brake connects is just a hook (see picture). I have an old set of 240SX calipers that has the correct cam arm that I plan on swapping the cam arm to my new calipers (see picture). Miles

The 240Z E-Brake cable has a smaller diameter then the hole in the 240SX E-Brake cable bracket (Hanger). The 240SX bracket is also thicker than the 240Z bracket making difficult to use the the retaining clips in a reliable way. So I had a shop weld the 240Z E-Brake bracket to the 240SX bracket as seen in the attached pictures. This should result in a more reliable (stock) mounting for the E-Brake cable.

I was chasing overheating issues with the JTR radiator. Did all of the things most people do to resolve the problem except for controlling water flow. Finally I bought a set of Moroso water outlet flow restrictors. I removed the thermostat and installed the middle sized Moroso outlet flow restrictor. My engine used to run 240 + deg. Now it runs 180 - 185 deg on 100 deg days.

I just installed a MM 240sx brake kit on my 240Z. There are two issues 1. Driver's Side Flex Line: I installed the 20" hard line that goes from the T block on the passenger side to the driver's side and used the SS flex line that came with the MM kit. The geometry and length of the flex line makes it fit very close to the frame and will most likely cause it to rub on the frame. I am thinking about getting another flex line the same length as the passenger side that Ross supplied in his kit. A longer line should allow it to droop below the frame, but not so long as to hit the half-shaft. From my search of the archives I see others have had this same problem and have just installed a flex line all the way to the T block. 2. E-Brake Arm on the 240SX Caliper: I bought 1994 remanufactured 240zx calipers. The problem is that the e-brake actuator lever that connects to the E-brake cable is completly different than the pictures I have seen here. On mine the lever has just a hook at the end. It looks like the letter "J". there is no way it will capture the fork on the end of the E-brake cable. I do have an old set of calipers I bought for core charge. See attached pictures. The new caliper is black. Miles

I found the source of the problem. There is a stop adjustment on the front and rear sides of the Hurst T5 shifter body to prevent over-shifting. The rear aduster had backed out and was allowing the the shifter to go too far aft when shifting into 4th gear. All is well now.

I replaced the Hurst shifter with the stock Camaro shifter and it shifts pefectly. I'll drive it this way for awhile to see if it locks up again. Anyone have problems with the Hurst shifter? Thanks Miles

Application: 350 SBC and Camaro T5 transmission with Hurst shifter in 72 240Z. Used Dexron fluid in the transmission 500 miles on new SBC and rebuilt Camaro transmission Up until today transmission shifted perfectly Problem: After coming to a stop the transmission locks up in 4th gear. It has to be forced out of 4th gear into neutral and it grinds doing this. Sitting and idling in neutral and attempting to shift into 4th grinds the gears. All other gears are perfect. Nothing is binding the shifter. I am going to check the shifter now. Thanks Miles

I am using teh JTR radiator with a Flex-A-Lite 180 electric fan and a high flow water pump. The radiator and fan fit together tight with no air gaps. Looks stock. Average engine temp is 185 to 210 in traffic. On days over 100 the temp has gotten up to 220. Miles

Rod I recently did another 350 SBC T5 combo. I used the Tilton 7/8" MC and a Napa brand Camaro slave. This is my second SBC T5 swap into a 240Z and the clutch was perfect in both cars. Bleeding and push rod adjustment are the keys to getting it to work just right. Here is what I did: Threaded the 240Z clutch fork to fit the Tilton MC per JTR. To bleed the MC just open the bleed screw on the slave enough to get good flow and let the fluid ooze out over about 15 or 20 minutes with a pan under the slave. Be patient. As the MC gets low add more fluid. Don't pump the MC. Make sure that the hose going to the slave has no bends that can trap air. The hose should be vertical. Close the slave bleed screw. Try the clutch. On the second pump my clutch came alive. If not repeat the drip method. Once you have a firm pedal, adjust the push rod under the dash to get optimum piston travel. I adjusted the rod out so there is about a 3/8" of thread showing. Don't over adjust it or it will bottom out the piston in the MC. There is also an adjustable rubber stop for the clutch pedal arm as it swings back to the resting position. You may need to adjust the rubber stop to get full return travel for the piston. Miles

My ad thread tools window does not have the delete function as requested by the rules below: 12. After your item/s have sold, please delete your ad. Miles

My ads do not have a delete function. Miles

There is no option to delete my ads in the thread tools window. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150057&highlight=engine http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150840&highlight=engine Please delete them or tell me how to proceed. Thanks Miles

I just finished installing a SBC 350 in my 240Z. It is consuming gas such that a 18 mile round trip to work used about 1/2 tanks of gas. Data: Engine: GM Goodwrench 350/290 HP crate engine Cam: .450"/.460 lift, 222deg/222deg duration Carb: Edelbrock 1406 performer electric choke Distributor: MSD HEI Timing: 8 deg TDC Temp: runs about 185 deg using JTR radiator and electric fan Transmission: Camaro T5 rebuilt Differential: R200 3.54 Fuel pump: Edelbrock EDL-1791 Fuel pressure: 6 psi Idles ragged Off idle throttle is a little slow. Driving around town the fuel gage goes down fast. Any ideas. Thanks Miles

Given: recent install of SBC in a 240Z, MSD HEI distirbutor, using B/W wire with heavey black sleeve to power the HEI. All was working until today. I have been resolving over heating problems and would set the timing and lock down the distributor. The engine idled in the driveway at 180 deg, but as soon as I drove about a mile it would overheat and start dying at idle and eventually become impossible to start. After several episodes of this I noticed that each time the distributor was coming loose and would retard the spark. I think that this is what was causing the overheating. I put a lockwasher on the distributor hold down bolt and wrenched it tight, but it came loose again and ther car became impossible to start and was over heated. Now I have a new problem. The B/W ignition wire w/the big black sleeve has no power. All fuses are good. If I connect another source of B+ to the HEI Batt terminal I get no spark at all. 1. Did my MSD HEI die? Even with B+ to it it doesn't work. 2. Any ideas as to the loss of power on the B/W wire? Is there a hidden fuse? Thanks Miles

Does anyone have any ideas as to why a stock 240Z tack is working with an HEI distributor? The only wire hooked to the HEI is the black and white Datsun ignition wire. Per JTR the 240Z should not work.

Electric Choke Shorted on Edelbrock 1406 Carb? During the electrical check out before firing the recently installed SBC in my 240Z I noticed that the electric choke was almost too hot to touch. The engine had not been run. The choke is correctly wired with the red + wire hooked to a 12 volt source. The black wire on the choke is attached to ground. I am assuming that there must be a short inside the choke. Any ideas? Thanks Miles

Dan I swapped the Tilton push rod for the Datsun push rod and have it adjusted all the way out. So I'll check the total travel. Per Tilton the 7/8 the travel should be 1.1 inch. I didn't bench bleed the MC so I'll do that too. Thanks

Given: 72 240Z SBC swap done per JTR. Using MSD HEI distributor Per JTR the 240Z tach is not supposed to work with an HEI distributor. I just ran the engine for the first time and noticed that the stock 240Z tach is working perfectly with the HEI. I used the black and white wire with the black plastic sleave to power the HEI. The other non-sleeved black and white wire is not connected to anything. I connected the green and white wire to the output side of the oil pressure switch to power the fuel pump during starting. Everything works perfectly. ??? Miles

Yep 1 inch and we'll call it good. Also, there is some ATF leaking from around the output shaft seal and it is a rebuilt trans. New problem is that the Tilton 7/8 clutch MC and camaro slave are not moving the TO arm far enough. I have the push rod adjusted all the way to the end and have bled. This is a common problem as I have read a number of similar posts here. I will try more bleeding. Thanks Miles

Given: 240z SBC swap with Camaro T5 5 speed trans I measured the drive shaft length after inserting it into the trans and then backing it out 3/4 inch. The measurement from adaptor eye to input yoke eye center was 19 3/4 inches. The machine shop cut it to 19 1/2 inches. Will this be a problem and should I have it lengthened to 19 3/4 inches? Thanks Miles

I bought a rebuilt T5 WC for my 240Z engine install. The T5 is now bolted to the engine and on a hoist ready to install. When I had the T5 on the bench I noticed that it was difficult to shift gears. I could shift it through the gears and neutral , but it took some effort. I called the builder and was told that that was normal and once the trans is mounted in the car, and the engine turning the trans, that the trans would shift normally. Now that the trans is bolted to the engine I can't get it to shift into neutral. Is this because the gears just need to be spinning or something else. I don't want to complete the install and then have to pull it all out again. Thanks