Miles

Mike Thanks Miles

While testing the yellow and black wires that attach to the fuel tank sending unit I attched a volt meter to the black and yellow wires and turned on the ignition. The volt meter initially went to 12 volts and then started pulsing as if the fuel gauge wiring were attached to a turn signal. The voltage would drop to zero and then pulse to 12 volts. The fuel gauge has never worked so I am pulling the fuel tank to seal the various unused tubes and replace the fuel level sending unit. The pulsing voltage at the yellow and black wires is an unexpected find. Anyone seen this before? Thanks Miles

While testing the yellow and black wires that attach to the fuel tank I attched a volt meter to the black and yellow wires and turned on the ignition. The volt meter initially went to 12 volts and then started pulsing as if the fuel gauge wiring were attached to a turn signal. The voltage would drop to zero and then pulse to 12 volts. The fuel gauge has never worked so I am pulling the fuel tank to seal the various unused tubes and replace the fuel level sending unit. The pulsing voltage at the yellow and black wires is an unexpected find. Anyone seen this before? Thanks Miles

Per JTR I installed the 84 Camaro Radiator (see page 12-6 in the JTR book 7th ed.) with a Black magic model 150 electric fan and 160 deg. thermostat in my 72 240Z. The Camaro radiator is not keeping up with the hot Sacramento days. Water temp is around 250 and fills the overflow tank on a regular basis. I am looking to replace the Camaro radiator. Anyone have a a part number and source for a radiator that fits and keeps the temp down. My shorty headers are cooking every thing under the hood. What are the pros and cons of applying header wrap? Thanks Miles

After installing all new rear brake parts on my 72 240Z I have had a problem with the right rear locking up when making an emergency stop. The OEM shoes have about 200 miles of city driving on them. So I backed out the right side adjuster and now the left rear tends to slightly lock up and pedal travel has increased. I was thinking I should just slacken the adjusters all the way loose and use the hand brake to adjust the shoes and not mess with the adjusters at all. Also, on this car the front brakes,new with about 200 miles on them, will not lock at all. The master cylinder is new OEM. We have put about a gallen of Ford brake fluid through the system and no air bubbles are present. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Miles

While I was road testing rear brake adjustment on my 72 240Z with a 350 sbc the engine would just quit when making a hard stop (clutch in). I am guessing that this may have something to do with carb float adjustment. Any ideas? Thanks Miles

I recently installed a new Master cylinder on a 72 240Z. There appears to be a leak at the fitting of the rear brake hard pipe where it is attached to the MC or at the large nut where it screws into the bottom of the MC directly under the reservoir for the rear brakes. I can detect fluid between the large nut and the main body of the MC and, over a few days, fluid builds up around the fitting for the rear brake line where it screws into the large nut. I assumed being a new MC they would have properly tightened that large nut at the facory. I have the rear brake fitting that bolts to the MC as tight as I can get it with out risking stripping the threads. I thought of pulling the MC and tightening the large nut the rear fitting screws into. I was also wondering if there may be a problem with the fitting that screws into the MC. Is it ok to put plumbers tape on the threads? Should I go buy a new hard pipe and fitting? Thanks Miles

Once you get the gland nut off the strut tube is there anything else holding the shock in the tube? Also, does anyone know if any parts stores sell the gland packing nut removeal tool. It is availble from Kentmoore Tools, but I would like to find one closer to home if possible. Thanks Miles

I am going to install a proportioning valve near the brake master cylinder in my 72 240Z. What should be done with the stock proportioning valve? Leave it? Gut it out? Thanks Miles

I get steering wheel shimmy when braking to a stop in my 72 240Z. Is it caused by warped rotors or worn suspenion parts? Thanks Miles

Would 180 lb/in. front and 200lb/in. rear spring rates be too stiff for a street 72 240Z V8? Arizona Z sells these springs for $89 per pair. I'd like to hear from anyone running close to 180 front and 200 rear spring rates in a V8 Z. Hows the ride? This is very subjective, but on a bone jarring scale of 1-10 (1-soft to 10-skate board) what is your ride like? Thanks Miles

Pete Would it be possible to get those last remaining bubbles of air out of the MC using a vacume type bleeder?

Anyone out there experienced with replacing a window regulator in a 72 240Z? My manuals do not explain the steps clearly. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Miles

Once the strut is out of the car and the spring is removed using a spring compresser, how do you get the old strut cartrage out of the strut? The nut has three holes on top. Do I need to buy a special tool to unscrew the nut? Thanks Miles

We have two 72 240Zs. One is stock and the other has a 350 sbc. Both cars have stiff steering. Is stiff steering typical for the 240Z? Thanks Miles

I was just looking at the Arizona Z Car website. they sell a set of 240Z springs 180 LB/in. front and 200 LB/in. rear for abot $160.00. Has anybody tried Arizona Z Car for parts or bought their spring kits? Thanks Miles

Mike What spring rates are you using front and back? Thanks Miles

How do you remove the old shocks in a 72 240Z? Do they screw out with a pipe wrench? Do the struts have to be completely removed from the car? Also, what is a good source for springs? We are looking for 150 lb spring rate front and 175 lb spring rate rear and not more than a one inch drop. The car has a 350 sbc. Thanks Miles

Do I have to pull the trans to replace the rear seal? Thanks Miles

We used a W.c. Camaro T5 five speed trans for our V8 conversion. There seems to be a lot of trans fluid coming out of the tail stock of the trans when the car is parked on a slope. Do I need to replace a seal or did I just put too much fluid in the trans? Thanks Miles

We used a 82 Camaro radiator with a Black Magic electric fan for our V8 Install. The radiator is the one shown in the JTR book. Now that summer is here we are finding that most of the water in the radiator is venting out of the radiator cap which is rated at 15 psi. Can I safely go to a 20 psi cap with the Camaro radiator and not risk blowing a seem? Thanks Miles

Brakes are working. Put some city miles on them and they stiffened up. Bled them one more time and got a few bubbles out of the right front and right rear. Now that the brakes are done we were finally able to open it up and experience the full potential of a V8 Z. What a ride! Thanks again for your help. Miles

I bled the brakes on our72 V8 240Z using the above procedures, but the pedal is still spongy. Adjusting the rear brakes manually helped bring the pedal up, but I am having trouble getting the right and left sides adjusted evenly such that one wheel will lock up. I am going to back the adjusters out and readjust the shoes again. Hard stops from 25-30 mph will not lock up the fronts only the rears. I assume this is partly due to the new pads or the proportioning valve. My Haynes manual says that if you can't lock the front brakes at 30 mph the proportioning valve should be replaced. I note on my other stock 72 240z daily driver that I can not lock the fronts either. Is this normal for 240Zs? I am considering replacing the proportioning valve in the V8 Z with an adjustable unit from MSA or Summit, but don't have a clue how to connect it to the stock hard pipes. If someone has installed an adjustable proportioning valve in a 240Z I could use your input. Thanks for all of your input. I'll just keep grinding away at this til I get it right. Hope to have the brakes resolved soon so we can make it to the next northern California (Rio Vista?) Hybrid meet in July. Miles

Just finished complete 100% rebuild of front and rear brakes on a 72 240Z including a new master cylinder using all stock parts. Noted that brake pedal was soft with original old brake parts. The pedal is still soft with all new parts. I know the pads and shoes will have a springy feel for a few hundred miles. I bench bled the MC. I have checked all connections for leaks and found none. The pedal is still soft and pumping does not stiffen the pedal up. Perhaps I did not bench bleed the MC correctly. What is the procedure to bench bleed the MC? Thanks Miles

Lone How does the Ford starter solinoid help? Do you install it in series with the B+ cable to the starter? We have a lot of advance dialed in a sbc 350 and when the engine is hot it takes a bit more cranking to start. I was thinking of going to a gear reduction starter some day. Thanks Miles