John Scott

I know we're talking 1/2 shafts, but had driveshaft fail in my 68 442 at the end of the 1/4. Had me plastered againts the door while my center console was leaping off the trans hump. Shaft tore in 1/2, but loop did its job. I worry less about what it would do to the tunnel as what it would be like inside of a blender by not having one. "John , I went a 9.21 @ 153 mph in the quarter, on stock halftshafts, and a 5.82 @123 mph in the 1/8th. I wanted to go into the 8's on stock stuff. I rescently upgraded to CV axles. I am still shooting for the 8's . Jerry" ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I'm amazed at what the rear will handle. Heard stock 150 hp cars breaking, must be due to limiting squat.

It doesn't help guide you into reverse, it keeps you from accidently hitting it instead of a forward gear. Just wire up the thing. Keep the rev. lights seperate, thats what the other pigtail is for anyway. Hot ignition on, and add a micro switch near the shifter. Some use a shift knobs with button and wire them. The reverse gate can be "crashed" through w/o wiring up, but why defeat a good system? You are going through the effort to swap engines and transmissions, what's one or two wires?

IMO 200 hp in a 2000 lb car is better than 400 in a 4000 car even though power to weight is the same. Car responds better, easier to stop, better handling. If I could, I'd always go with a lighter set up.

Best advice I got was from johnc. For a really tight budget the original calipers and good pads and fluid make a world of difference. For spirited driving, and ocassional hauling down from triple digits he recommended all hardware was in top condition, good new rotors, and one pad mentioned was Hawk HP Plus, keep high quality brake fluid such as Ford heavy duty, and keep it fresh. The HP Plus have little dust build up, nice grip, amazing difference.

I thought since no more shifts, you would rather be near the redline of your engine and well past the "meat" of your powerband. I know shift points are determined to drop you into the power band. Just figured there would be a good predictor using an engines specific characteristics.

What rpm in final gear do you shoot for in relation to your hp and torque?

Sorry to hear about the fire. Glad you....and the Zs are alright.

Thanks Jon. I've heard some still successfully replacing by taking the numbers off the bearing to a bearing supply rather than an auto parts store so they can match the dimensions, rather than just showing a discontinued # for an old car. We have a great place that only deals in bearings, seals, and hydraulic lines. I probably hear more since I have solid mount, its suddenly, obviously different. I can't determine this is the cause, but since the tapered ones seem to make noise on load or coast....

Anyone? Is the pinion Pilot bearing pressed into the case or on the pinion shaft, both? neither?

Chilton...hate to go there, says low pitched scraping or whirring starting at low speed most likely Pinion bearing Looks like I'll be searching for another R200. Two of our local salvage have crushed the whole pick and pull yards, I had just located a good Z donor in Loveland a few months back, just new cars now.

Took drums off ran it in the air. Drums backing plates OK. Really hard to hear when elevated, but obvious when car is running down the road. Would pinion or side bearing cause sound like this? I figured it would make more of a racket if rear internals were going....update: no question coming from rear. Noise consistant regardless of left or right turns, load or coast. Like I said a smooth hissing scraping. Any diagnosis tips on determining whether side or pinion bearings before pulling it apart? If side I'll dig in, NBD. I suppose easier to find another rear than set up again with new pinion bearing(S)

After last of the season T&T at Bandimere last night, just behind me developed a smooth scraping, hissing noise. Sounds like a stick rubbing on the drive shaft or brake drum. Pulled off twice on the drive home, no heat from drums, shoes not sticking. Noise doesn't change with brake application, turning, shifting to neutral. Speed dependent.Thought e-brake cable, no contact, bolt loose on drive shaft loop, no. Lots of rubber under the wells, build up? Weeds stuck underneath? no. Seemed to lessen slightly when I got home. Tried running on jack stands, couldn't hear again, checked all areas for contact, plenty of clearance, then had cops called on me for noise....#$%@ neighbors, it was 9AM and barely idling. Any ideas? Plus side, 1.8 60's can be had from skinny 225 60 16s..maybe 1.7s! This is the end of the car I'm clueless. Where should I start?

Zmanco, I fit my autometer in the hole, but not as nice looking as original. I modified the metal clamp mount with a threaded stud lining up with original lower mounting locations. You lose the turn signal indicators and angled bezel.

I always hear the discrepancies in claimed flow of Edlebrock vs Holley vs Holley HP, vs Demon etc. Demon techs claims their 650 will flow more cfm than a Holley 650, more like a Holley 750. Holley 950HP isn't really 950 cfm with 800 baseplate and 750 body and a 830 with larger bores and body flow more than either. In other words can we believe what the manufacturer claims? Which carbs do you trust as far as claimed ratings? The best one I've run to date with extreme flexibility, great idle even with long cam, is the 4150HP 750.

um,..not mine...Actually siliconboy's TT 383.. which can justify the use of dual 3".

I know the old Q-jets used to do this due to leaks in main well. I agree with last two. Take it off and see where its going.

You'll have to be pushing way more power to see any difference. Probably any gains on a 3-400hp V8 are going to be lost due to your car being heavier. At the differential 5.75" clearance under my 3". Unless I'm off road, not an issue. Duals look cool, personal choice..if its all about flow then why not dual 3"s? hope someone doesn't mind my showing their exhaust

A degree'd balancer can really make a simple job of this. Just go in 90 degree increments and follow firing order 18436572. 0,270,180,90 etc, but with hydraulics, best when hot and running.

My wife calls mine "that damn car"

Cool, it will be fun to see the progress. If you get greedy with power, who doesn't, go to the Sy Ty sites for what works. I swore I would be happy with 10 psi. I'd probably still be driving it with the same belt if I stuck to it. Been talking to a few local Sy Ty guys and they all say at 10 second+ high altitude+ 3700#, the 4.3 gets real expensive. Especially when you want to make it last. No where near the durability and success of the GN V6s, but still a fun engine to play with.

I had over 17" from the face of the block to my radiator!

Doing fine, thanks for asking. Good to hear from you! Been V8 for so long now I tend to overlook the 4.3 V6 stuff. I'm sure more is now in archives than what I remember anyway. V6s are great in the Z.

4.3? What are you thinking Take advantage of the weight distribution, not the shortcut and JTR it. Best to fab up your own mounts. I used the Datsun pads with a front engine mount. Cross member idea good, probably stronger. I used Astro pan, since it was from an Astro, but they are pretty deep as I recall.

Dang, I better get out the flat black paint for my strut bars...not to mention my subtle CAI

Zmanco, could you put them here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=683097#post683097