John Scott

Any members on board? PM me? Thanks.

Hey Honorable FastFrog. Glad to see you're still lurking around..still need to meet up someday before we're too old to remember all the good Z stories. Can't say off hand, but I think if you search the topic you'll find quite a few running the full headers. What are you cooking up? Always enjoyed our conversations. Feel free to call up sometime.

Snake oil! If you are gaining with this product then you had poorly matched components, improperly tuned combination to start with.

http://www.totalseal.com/TechPage.aspx#trGaplessPistRings I remeber my builder going through a few extra steps with them...including the "fairy dust" haha! If you do go with them, Avoid synthetic oil until they have seated. Going on 6 - 7 years(?) and my valve cover breathers are still bone dry, no blowby. Some say they create more vacuum, casuing a slight rich hook in carburetion at high rpms, remedied by larger high speed air bleeds, need less total timing, some have issues with drawing oil past the stem seals.... Seems like claims either way are usually inflated.

WOW! -10 or 100 I cook year 'round on the grill. The dual tanks, more BTUs than most home furnaces..the massive displacement, potential for back yard size fireballs...its got it all! I've got some major grill envy! SWEET!

K&N 97-99 Durango 5.2-5.9. I wonder how tall the hat is. I'm pretty sure the TB is the same diam as a Holley carb and filter RC 4680 has a 4" flange.

As usual, the words of wisdom and experience. Thanks grumpy! The only thing I'd add is then do your research on the builder. As a kid I spent 5 years collecting the right parts only to have them ruined by a flashy machinist, builder that dissappeared in under a year. Look for an estabilished builder, repeat customers, talk to the local drag or track guys and see who is doing great work and standing behind it. It can save a boatload of hard earned cash.

I figured a 1/2" is better than nothing and the lowest profile versions of the Vic Jrs can sometimes benefit from a spacer at really high RPM due to fuel rebounding off the floor. I can still close the hood with the 1/2" spacer and a 3.5" filter using a really low drop base. I tried a open spacer and the result was dramatic..ly poor. I felt my carb is dialed in pretty close and it caused a surging in low mid range tip in, and felt lazy on the bottom and mid range with no improvement on top. Maybe with more adjustment, more jet, it might have been better, but the way it was it ran like crap! Wow, a little spacer did all that? A four hole, however, really perked things up. Better throttle response and picked up low and midrange as well over the stock manifold height. As big as my cam is 244@ .050, .614/.585 108 LSA, and a single plane, this combination allows me to run down to just above idle in gear w/o any bad manners. The 108 of my cam gets things done at a lower, tighter RPM range, maybe better for the four hole?? Every engine combo will be different, but I'm sticking with the fourhole. I'd recommend only the phenolic spacer as they really insulate the carb from the manifold heat. If you have the room and single plane, you might benefit. If I had the room I'd give a 1" a shot.

I'm still looking for the best cold air intake. Someone had the right idea. I think you confirmed this.

The only braided line I use is from the regulator to the carb inlets. Makes changing jets easy since they flex. From tank to filter, fuel pump, to regulator and back to fuel tank are all -8 alum. I can't say what using a steel line would be like, but might be more likely to corrode to water contamination in the fuel. Aluminum is really easy to work with and compression fittings do not need flaring.

Part of the "Sport" (bites lip hard) is getting it right. For sea level you can about bolt one on, correct size, out of the box and have it perform well. For a fraction of the price of FI, there's still money to purchassing a basic Innovate wideband for $350 and quit guessing at your jetting, too. Seeing experienced carbureted racers within .02 of their dial in, all weekend long with changing conditions obviously means some have the art down. Its possible to have our DA change from 6000' to over 10,000' DA window in a race day. I don't, lol, but am fianlly having mine run really well. I can leave mine for my home altitude of 4660, and not have to change for racing at 6000. Not until we reach a DA of 8000 will I change 1 jet leaner. Then its only about a 2 minute job. No big deal. Actually if you get it right, there isn't a need to change with every little drop in air pressure, temp etc. especially for everyday driving. I see plenty of frantic posts in the Megasquirt forum to tell me the EFI is not cut and dried. You aren't going to bolt it on and drive away with out a lots of work tuning, trial and error. I don't dispute FI is better for a wide variety of conditions, and for me cost is still the issue. Mine starts year 'round, below freezing above 100, any weather, no choke, only a minute or less warm-up, great throttle response from 1500 up, (244 @ .050, 108 degree .614/.585 cam) gets mid 20mpg. I'll rejet once in the summer80 - 100 degrees, again in the winter can be below 0. Performance-wise I'll bet $$ on a run with anyone with the same engine configuration running EFI.

I went to US performance in Loveland and bought a roll of -8 aluminum...actually two rolls. Any well equipped speed shop should carry -3,-4,-6,-8,-10. Bought a tubing cutter and bender as well. Check your Jegs or Summit catalog. I found some compression fittings from home depot rather than high dollar Russell, Earls etc. Not as pretty with colored anodized, but do the job. Always passed inspections at track. Hard lines are a PITA, but worth the effort.

http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html Forget your rules of thumb such as 1 jet per 2000'. we race at 6000 ft and DA is never that low except in the dead of winter. 65 degrees and around 8000' today. I'm down to 66/77s on my 750HP from a stock set up of 72/84s. Current conditions equate to 72/83s and has never run better! Once you figure out your best set up, this is a great reference.

Read my post about R/T install? Because I initially hung my bolts down, I ground a bit to clear bolts, less than 1/8 inch. Until this is a proven design, I had the clearance, though compressed, to use the stock mount as well. In my case the diff hung down slightly less than 5mm lower than my MSA solid, resulting in about 1 degree more difference in driveline angles. I originally had left the upper washer out of my mustache bar bushings, urehtane, and have the trans crossmember lowered under the chassis about 1/4". This was perfect for my solid mount < 1 degree.. Adding the upper washer will add more clearance to the rear crossmember and probably get me back to where I was with the solid mount for driveline phasing. I've launched mine pretty darn hard and have no interference, amazingly quiet, but occasionally slight contact with E brake linkage. I also have all new urethane bushings throughout. Probably don't need to mention, but If you have bad vibes, phasing can be done with either trans cross member, trans mount, or diff depending on clearance.

I feel uncomfortable with the minimal amount of material locking the poly mount together. I wonder if the new poly mount can survive repeated situations where the rear suddenly locks up, grippy tires and a hard downshift, letting off the gas suddenly from redline, and the diff nose dives down. Perhaps a lower should be used as well. The R/T mount ends up just being a pinion snubber and will save the lower mount from destructing under power. Until someone can say otherwise, and to be safe in either situation, I think I'll sandwich the two to limit both directions, then not be a test pilot. The crossmember failure with a solid mount, or tearing up the stock under power was more of my concern than ease of removal anyway.

Some forget you can put spacers under the trans crossmember, sandwiched between the body and crossmember, to get the angles correct. I used 1/4 aluminum plates under mine with the solid rear diff mount. Still the adjustabilty is a snap with the R/T design.

More testimonials, please. Looking at my crossmember after five years of using solid mount there are no stress cracks but center hole is beginning to baloon upward like Zgads failure. Apparently the straight line stuff isn't as hard on the pieces as running through the twisties... Still the design seems superior and should be much quieter, so I'm jumping on the bandwagon. Just want to here more from those using it.

R/T mount, in my case ended up being slightly lower than my MSA solid mount. I mounted the R/T bracket into the chassis, perfect tight fit, GM mount already installed loosely. Picking correct length bolts which pass through the diff and bracket and running them up, not down, might eliminate grinding the crossmember for bolt clearance. Once in place and all other diff bolts tightened, I tightened all the bracket and mount bolts, the top center mount bolt above the bracket being the hardest to access due to the proximity of the handbrake linkage. I installed, or should say compressed, a new stock rubber underneath due to the lack of hard tested testimonials using the upper only. The new system is great for under power, but I worried about the energy suspension mount failing under repeated nose down forces, braking, downshifts. There are some on the site with outstanding mechanical engineering, racing experience credentials, but until they give their OK, I'll keep the bottom attached as well. In my humble ignorant opinion, the cross section of the energy suspension mount doesn't seem to have a lot of metal or urethane to solely support the diff under harsh conditions.. Maybe puttering around it would last for ever? The R/T design addresses the under power nose up force nicely, but I assume the forces pulling the diff nose down could equal or be greater than under power. The urethane mount wasn't intended to hang, especially with additional material removed to conform to the nose of the diff. Anyway, by comparison its much quieter than my solid mount, though sanwiched as tightly as I do might conduct a bit more noise than a stock rubber only. I guess I feel better about having a slight amount of flex under power and hard downshifts, should be better for the long term durability of the lower crossmember...right? The R/T system with the GM Energy suspension mount works great as a pinion snubber and if it could be finally tested under long term, high power drag and road course abuse, might prove to be the best mounting system for the early Z diff.

Getting ready for the install of my 3.7s. Got the old original rubber mustache bar bushings out and ready for the urethane replacements. I found using a 1.5" hole saw on my 3/8 drill with a little lubricant, follwing up with a sharp scraper, then a 2" wire brush had the job done for both sides in just a few minutes. Watch out for hole saw causing combustion to the old rubber. I inserted drill head through the bar eye then attached the brush so pulling through wouldn't bind. Great surface for new install.

Nice piece! Thanks Roostmonkey!

Update: Got one located, Thank you Don!

She went straight to Silicone Boy...Sorry Ben, I couldn't resist.

I know some can fall in love with the planning, engineering, design, and redesign for years without ever turning the key, that's cool, but for me, I can't stay inspired if its not running and able to drive down the road. The first was the Procharged V6 over ten years ago. Round two V8 is ultra reliable by comparison. 3.70s wating to go in this spring.

Sabb for a million miles? Poor guy.

Thanks for the replies and offers for help. I'm sure many of you would have it cleaned in 1/100th the time. regedit, windows defender, and Hijack This, all fail to list most of the items I find in the Msconfig System Config Utility startup items, including the legit ones. All of the risidual nasty ones that infected the computer have been disabled i.e. ibm00001, paytime, winstall, srwhost, etc, etc. Even though they are in the startup list, they seem to pose no activity, but I still disabled just because. Hijack This found some other traces in BHOs. Pretty cool program IF you know what you are looking for. Spent a lot of time looking up file names and cross checking before I deleted anything. Really no running issues, has been running fine now for months with plenty of internet activity. Regular scans turn up nothing. Never used the laptop for internet, but as soon as we had wireless my wife was on checking out music and videos, with expired protection. Kerpow! Happens fast with high speed. By the time she said John, somethings going on, it was too late. Even though its her computer, my wife is banned from Lymewire for life!