Tim240z

I'm always around Just give me some advance notice if you want complete axles......I need to get all the parts together... Tim

Just put a damn bowtie in it and be done!!!

disassemble!

I'm married dude......I don't need 'chicks' to dig nuttin..... I don't have cable (can't see paying $90+ for even more channels of crap)....I don't like to work on my car at night (too many mistakes when tired and dark)......don't drink anymore.....don't have family in this country (apart from wife and son).....well....you get the picture. I don't sleep very much either...I am up for work at 04h00 and I get home at ~18h00 and go to sleep at 22h30 or later.....

My 5,000th post!!!!!!

Please don't post multiple posts on the same topic. It just serves to clutter the board. Thanks. If you haven't done so already, please take a look at this: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24173

OK....so who knows how to hack the registry? Tim

Waaaaaa waaaaaa.....I need mommy to hold me!! I'm laying in the fetal position Oh well...I guess that guy has enough $$$ to buy a new one....bastard!!! Tim

Can we get a count of the guys who will absolutely be at MSA WITH a Hybrid Z car? Maybe we can get a spot set aside for us? I'm there for sure!!

John, What time dude.....14h00 or 12h00? Or haven't you made up your mind yet? Any chance of convincing Erik to lug his C.W. setup along?

The software that came with my camera (ImageMixer V. 1.5 - Pixela/Sony), is not all that functional or user friendly. Can you guys recommend a good editor program for MPEG video files? Freeware would be great, but I am willing to actually buy the software----as long as it doesn't cost a fortune....this is after all just for kicks and giggles...... Thanks, Tim

Sorry for my lack of astuteness here John, but could you explain that statement. I do not yet have a solution for rear sway bar, so this is very pertinent to me at the moment..... Thanks, Tim

WOW, sounds like fun.....but think of all the Moolah that could be spent on the Z!!! Have fun and be careful.... Tim

Here is a ballpark breakdown: R230 Diff: $200-$300 (1 needed) Axles (OEM Q45): $80-$100 each (4 needed) New Axles: $175 each (2 needed) (Speedway Engineering) Companion flange adapters: $300 Grease: $5 per can (3 or 4 cans needed) R200 Mustache bar: $50-$150 Redrill R200 mustache bar: $0-$50 (no you cannot redrill it yourself unless you have a slow speed drill press and good quality drill bits----trust me on this one!!!) Take to machine shop. The one I went to did it for free....I had never been there before, but it only took them a couple of minutes with their bigga$$ drill press. Front diff mount:$pennies if you can fab yourself Driveshaft: T-56 to R230 = $200 (Cannon Engineering in SoCal) So best case: $1000 Worst case: $ 1500 I think I have about $600 in my conversion, only because many of the parts were gotten at cost because they were prototype. I also have a VERY VERY good supplier for the Diffs and Shafts from the Q45s. I also get distributor prices from Speedway. If you already have a R200 bar, then you'll be ahead there. I also posted the part numbers for the correct U-joints and new flanges for the driveshaft a while back. I must say that the diff works very nicely.....smooth and always lays double stripes

Denny, I have 6 outers laying around. Gonna be pretty expensive to ship!! and will require a pretty strong box. Have figured a solution to R&R the CVs when it becomes necessary, or will tou make a whole new assembly? Tim

Don't forget to prime the new one. What I have always done, it to open it up and pack the gears with grease, or vaseline to create a suction once it begins to turn. Just change out the oil after a while. Tim

I'd be curious to see how he plans to open the hood....unless of course the equipment above the hood is just 'glued' on Tim

They hang a bit low on the passenger side....some ground clearance issues are possible depending on whether or not your car is lowered. Tim

John, No, the J30 CVs are completely different. The bolt pattern is different and they only have 3 balls inside (as opposed to our 2 ) Terry.....tsk tsk tsk....I've posted these several times before....someone hasn't been paying attention These are actually a set that Mas280 bought from me and installed. I pirate his picture because it looks better than my old one. EDIT: in addition, I was looking at some other Q45 units in the JY and it appears as though in 1998 the design changed. Not too sure about the internals, but the inner CV cup flanges are no longer threaded. Instead of a bolt threading directly into the CV flange, it is now blank so that a bolt and nut are used....I guess Nissan decided that adding a nut and lock washer was cheaper than threading the CV cup flanges? Tim

Awesome...what a beeeaaach!!

While assembling a pair of axles for one of our esteemed members, I thought why not snap some pics while I go through the process? So here goes: Step one: Get all parts: 2 pairs of Q45 axles 2 new shafts (Speedway Engineering)--Driver's side is slightly shorter. A can of grease A couple of rolls of paper shop towels (very messy job) Step 2:Disassemble the old shafts: After pulling back the boot, you will find a ring sitting in a groove inside the 'cup'. Scoop it out with a small srewdriver: Step 3:Rip the guts out and clean away!! Step 4:: Note the position of the cage. It can only be removed from the shaft after the 'C' clip and the 'hub' has been removed.: Step 5: And this is what you'll get after cleaning (told you it was a messy job!!) Step 6:Assemble the new shaft. Be sure to note that there is a machined area on the spline of the hub. That MUST go to the inside of the shaft (opposite side to the 'C' clip), otherwise no hammer in the world will get it on far enough to put the clip on (BTW.. the clip has a rounded edge and a flat edge. Make sure that the flat edge is facing out so that any force pushing on the clip is pushing the clip into the groove). For the first side it's not that important to remember to put on the boot and cage first because you'll have the unassembled side to access the hub, but the second side you will need to be more carefull Step 7:Finish the assembly and grease it up. The balls will 'pop' in and the cage will hold them in place as long as it's straight. If you 'cokk' (misspelled intentionally otherwise it will come up as 'rooster' ) it the balls will fall out. Just hold them in place as you slide the assembly into the 'Cup'. Then slip the retaining ring back in and slide the boot in place and secure with the original clips. Step 8: This what you get after repeating the process for the other side. A nice new axle and a bunch of trash!! Tim